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Tasting notes

Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2006 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is a reminder that to be brutally honest, I was never taken with Claude Dugat's winemaking style and prefer his son and daughter's less interventional take. Dark berry fruit mixed with incense on the nose that lacks transparency and Pinoté. The palate follows suit, quite dense and muscular, but I miss the precision and delineation that makes a make Burgundy Grand Cru. Perhaps in 10 or 15 years it will mellow and offer more joy? Perhaps. Tasted at Henri restaurant in Washington DC.
About the Producer
Domain Claude Dugat is a tiny domaine in Burgundy with cult status, and the quality to match. Claude Dugat has the good fortune to work in the Cellier des Dimes, purchased by his father Maurice in 1955. This, previously known as the Grange des Dimes, was where the locals would bring their tithe of grapes or cereal, depending on their holdings, for the benefit of the church. The building was constructed in 1219 though the stone pillars inside are thought to date back to Gallo-Roman times. The Dugats – Claude, assisted by his wife, son and two daughters – have three hectares of their own and a further three rented. The younger generation also run a very small negociant business alongside, La Gibryotte, just covering the wines of their commune – Bourgogne Rouge, Gevrey Chambertin, Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru (unspecified) and Charmes-Chambertin.