Wine Advisor
Bruno Giacosa, Barolo Falletto 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The 2009 Barolo Falletto is an exuberant and exciting wine with tight, firming tannins surrounded by deep layers of dried cherry, licorice, cassis, moist tobacco and campfire ash. What sets this Barolo apart is the focus and care it shows on the bouquet. It is as if each layer is a separately audible voice in a united chorus of flavors and aromas. Also notable is the balanced acidity that adds a bite of freshness without being too sharp. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. With the return of winemaker Dante Scaglione in 2011, the wines of Bruno Giacosa (-the genius of Neive-) continue to impress. Bruna Giacosa, Bruno-s daughter, has taken over daily operations at the winery since her father suffered a stroke in 2006. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700
About the Producer
Bruno Giacosa, located in the south and south-west of Piemonte, has been performing well for three generations, thanks to the careful selection of high quality grapes and the emphasis on traditional winemaking techniques. The vineyard covers 44.7 acres (18 hectares) and is planted with Nebbiolo d'Alba, Barbera and Dolcetto varieties. The average age of the vines is 15 years and the planting density is between 4,500 and 5,000 vines per hectare, with an average yield of 4,800 litres per hectare. In terms of winemaking, the owner has a classic quote: "For us, the philosophy of traditionalism means making wines that are not only strongly local to the vine and the grape variety, but also maintain the various local terroirs. We have always made single-variety wines. Our winemaking techniques have been improved and we also make use of gentle pressing, crushing operations, advanced rotary systems and optimised cold and hot treatment techniques." For Garcosa, technology and tradition are not necessarily at odds with each other. In the winemaking process, the grapes are first fermented in steel containers and then transferred to wooden containers for ageing, which varies slightly depending on the type of wine. Finally, the wine is bottled without filtering. The main wines produced by the winery are the Barbaresco Garina, the Barbaresco Santo Stefano, the Barbaresco Asili, the Barbaresco Wabasha and the Barbaresco Asili. Barbaresco Rabaja, Barolo Falletto and Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto. Some of the more recent vintages are 2001, 2000, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1990, 1989, 1982 and 1978. These vintages are often relatively closed and uninteresting when first bottled, but after 10 years in the cellar, they all show an irresistible magic.
