Wine Advisor
Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco Rabaja 2014
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
This is the second year in which this wine was made with estate fruit (opposed to purchased fruit). Bruna Giacosa calls the 2014 Barbaresco Rabajà her “little miracle wine.” The Rabajà cru is very close to Asili, but indeed, the two corresponding wines are extremely different in character. This expression offers black fruit intensity, with sharp and classic lines. Rabajà tends to be closed in its younger years and needs extra aging time before it finds its voice. The mouthfeel is dense, brooding and slightly austere at this point. Ten additional years of cellar aging should be considered at a minimum.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2014 Barbaresco Rabajà is gorgeous. Powerful and explosive, the 2014 possesses stunning depth and intensity in all of its dimensions. Spice, menthol and orange peel give the 2014 a level of exoticism that is compelling, while beams of searing tannin announce the presence and pedigree of Rabajà. Intense, tannic and yet also very precise, with soaring structure and terrific persistence, the 2014 Rabajà is the best wine the Bruno Giacosa estate has made in many years.
About the Producer
Bruno Giacosa, located in the south and south-west of Piemonte, has been performing well for three generations, thanks to the careful selection of high quality grapes and the emphasis on traditional winemaking techniques. The vineyard covers 44.7 acres (18 hectares) and is planted with Nebbiolo d'Alba, Barbera and Dolcetto varieties. The average age of the vines is 15 years and the planting density is between 4,500 and 5,000 vines per hectare, with an average yield of 4,800 litres per hectare. In terms of winemaking, the owner has a classic quote: "For us, the philosophy of traditionalism means making wines that are not only strongly local to the vine and the grape variety, but also maintain the various local terroirs. We have always made single-variety wines. Our winemaking techniques have been improved and we also make use of gentle pressing, crushing operations, advanced rotary systems and optimised cold and hot treatment techniques." For Garcosa, technology and tradition are not necessarily at odds with each other. In the winemaking process, the grapes are first fermented in steel containers and then transferred to wooden containers for ageing, which varies slightly depending on the type of wine. Finally, the wine is bottled without filtering. The main wines produced by the winery are the Barbaresco Garina, the Barbaresco Santo Stefano, the Barbaresco Asili, the Barbaresco Wabasha and the Barbaresco Asili. Barbaresco Rabaja, Barolo Falletto and Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto. Some of the more recent vintages are 2001, 2000, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1990, 1989, 1982 and 1978. These vintages are often relatively closed and uninteresting when first bottled, but after 10 years in the cellar, they all show an irresistible magic.
