Wine Advisor
Bruno Clair, Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos du Fonteny 2005
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny leads with blackberry and charred meat aromas accented by hints of lily and vanilla. Positively palate-staining with juicy blackberry, charred meat, cherry pit, tactile cinnamon spice, soy, salt, and chalk, this superbly-lean, tannic yet fine-grained, densely concentrated wine throws itself energetically into a finish of superb length. Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
About the Producer
Domaine Bruno Clair is a young boutique winery in the Cote de Nuits appellation in Burgundy, France. Bruno Clair has a large number of vineyards, including the Clos de Beze in Chambertin and other first growths in Gevrey and Savigny, with a total of 12.5 acres of grand cru and first growths, and village vineyards scattered throughout Marsanne, Gevrey, Gevrey and Savigny. Chambolle Musigny, Morey St Denis, Vosne Romanee and Aloxe-Corton. The oldest of these vines is the Grand Cru de Beze, where 2/3 of the vines (mainly Pinot Noir) were planted in 1912, while the remaining 1/3 were planted in 1972. The Cazetiers, a first growth, is also quite distinctive. Located on the top of a hill in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, the white marl of this vineyard gives the wines a richer mineral flavour, which makes them very different from the neighbouring Clos St-Jacques. Despite its high altitude, the wines from Cazetiai are low in acidity and only require a period of maturation before becoming very rounded on the palate. At present, Château Bruno Clair offers a wide range of wines, including classic reds such as Chambertin-Clos de Bèzes Grand cru and Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, in addition to rosé sparkling wines (Rose) and White wines. These Pinot Noir reds are powerful, but not over-extracted, giving the impression of being over-extracted, and are loved and appreciated by consumers and critics alike.
