Bouchard Pere & Fils, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2019

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Reviewed by: William Kelley

Once again, for this taster, the 2019 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is the highpoint of Bouchard's portfolio, and it will be worth a special effort to track down. Mingling scents of peonies, rose petals, wild berries and bergamot in a perfumed and quintessentially Chambolle bouquet—even if, since the upper part of the parcel is being replanted, this derives exclusively from so-called "terres rouges"—it's medium to full-bodied, layered and perfumed, with terrific concentration, bright acids and a long, mineral finish. This isn't the most powerful wine in the range, but it's the most elegant; and it's refreshing to see Bonnes Mares interpreted in this register, rather than being extracted to the point of monstrosity.