Wine Advisor
Bonneau du Martray, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 1998
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Pierre Rovani
Unlike his colleagues in Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, de la Moriniere did not have any frost or hail damage (and only traces of oidium) in 1998. However, the famed Corton hill, on which is located Corton-Charlemagne, was not spared nature's wrath. The searing sun and heat of August burnt a significant percentage of the grapes, so de la Moriniere was compelled "to sort like crazy". While he wishes he could have harvested earlier, my impression is that his 1998 Corton-Charlemagne benefitted from the extra hang time by gaining richness, breadth, opulence, and riper acidities. Its delightful tropical fruit (pineapple and passion fruit) and spiced apple aromas lead to its velvety-textured, medium-bodied personality. This is a harmonious 1998, without any of the angular acid and tart aspects that typify so many of this difficult vintage's efforts. Its long seamless finish, and dense, fruit-packed character are outstanding. Projected maturity: 2002-2010. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.
About the Producer
Located in Pernand-Vergelesses in the Cote de Beaune region of France, Domaine Bonneau du Martray has a thousand-year-old vineyard and is the only Burgundy winery to produce only Grand Cru wines. The vineyards of Château Matelay currently cover over 11 hectares, of which 9.5 hectares are planted for the production of Chardonnay from Corten-Charlemagne, while the remaining area of the vineyard with more fertile soils is devoted to Pinot Noir, a Corten wine of steadily improving quality. The average age of the vines in the vineyard is 45 years. The owner, Joan Charles, has also introduced asexual propagation in the vineyard to replace the tired vines. Château Martlet produces only two wines, a white wine from the Corten-Charriman vineyard and a red wine from the Corten-Charriman vineyard. The white Chardonnay from the Corten-Charriman vineyard is a rich, thick wine with intense ripe fruit flavours, the best of all Chardonnay whites. The Colten Charlemagne white Chardonnay from Château Matelay is the best of the best. Fortunately, despite the excellent quality of the white wines produced here, they are affordable and offer excellent value for money. These wines are the result of the gift of nature meeting the perseverance of generations.
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