Wine Advisor
Willi Schaefer, Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese 2020
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Stephan Reinhardt
Willi Schaefer's 2020 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #10 is deep, fine and complex on the still reductive yet clear, dense and elegant nose. Lush and piquant on the palate, this is a very fine and finely concentrated, intense and persistent Domprobst with sustainable juicy fruit and stimulating grip. This is a mouthful of great Mosel Spätlese from one of the region's finest producers. 7.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in September 2021.
Reviewed by: Stephan Reinhardt
The 2020 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5 offers a deep and coolish, flinty and rather spicy more than fruity nose with piquant lemon and grapefruit as well as ripe and fine raisin aromas. Round, lush and precise on the filigreed palate, this is a beautifully elegant, piquant and fruity Spätlese with vibrantly fine acidity and crisp grape berry and apple fruit. Very delicate and digestible even at this early stage, with a tense, salty-mineral finish. 7.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in September 2021.
About the Producer
The estate is all of 4.2 hectares with no desire to grow. Part of is the wines themselves; they’re silly delicious. You cannot be unhappy drinking these perfect ur-Mosel Rieslings. And as crystalline as they are, as ethereally complex and limpidly clear, they have a quality of calm; they don’t fuss at you with how amazing they are. Since 2015, Christoph Schaefer and his wife Andrea run this storied family winery in Graach, the pair met while studying enology at Geisenheim. Their winemaking philosophy is not much different than that of Christoph’s father or grandfather. The focus is not on numbers or analytics, but on how the grapes taste. From harvesting each plot to the fermentations with natural yeast, all the way through bottling, everything is done by taste and feel. In the village of Graach, with south-to-southwest exposition, the vines have great sun exposure all day as well as natural spring that runs through the hillside, guaranteeing good water supply even in warm vintages. The Romans already knew the benefits of Graach’s sites and cultivated vines here. In the Prussian classification of the Mosel vineyards from 1816 to 1832, Graach’s vineyards had the highest ratings. Compared to the wines just slightly northwest in Zeltingen, the wines from Graach show cooler green and white tones rather Wehlen and Zeltingen’s more orange and red flavors. These wines perfectly reflect this unique terroir and show the distinct differences between these two sites right next to each other. Domprobst is more mineral, smokier, shadowy, and takes longer to emerge while Himmelreich is buoyant, more floral, lighter in texture, and is open from day one.
