Vougeraie, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2012

robert_parker93

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

When I tasted the 2012 Bonnes-Mares in barrel I was concerned about the level of new oak, but credit where credit is due, returning to the same wine in barrel it seems to have been assimilated with style and renders a far superior grand cru than I predicted. It has a more cohesive bouquet than the Charmes-Chambertin at the moment with detailed blackberry and boysenberry scents infused with minerals. The palate is sweet and rounded with very well-judged acidity and as I mentioned, the new oak has been subsumed by the fabric of this wine, perhaps better than the Charmes-Chambertin, lingering long and sensually on the finish. This far outperforms my expectations - chapeau!

robert_parker91

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from the domaine’s 0.70-hectare parcel that consists of a myriad of plantings between 1901 and 1998. It was aged in 80% new oak and the same percentage of whole bunches. It is much more occluded on the nose compared to the Clos de Vougeot, partly because of the dominance of the new wood. The palate is dense with firm tannins, chocolate-tinged black fruit at its core with citrus notes towards the finish. Here, I feel the new oak is just overwhelming the personality towards the finish. Perhaps 50% new oak would have worked better? Domaine de la Vougeraie was founded in 1998 when the domaines of Claudine Deschamps, Pierre Ponnelle, Louis Voilland and L’Heritier-Guyot were merged. I remember it well because at the time I was exporting L’Heritier-Guyot’s wines to Japan (to be frank, they were quite ordinary back then.) The man behind the venture was Jean-Claude Boisset, whose own considerable holdings meant that Domaine de la Vougeraie became a significant player in the Cote d’Or, with 37 hectares of prime vineyard including seven grand crus to their name. I have to be honest and say that like many others, I liked the first few vintages of their wine, but found them a little predictable and seemed to struggle for charm and personality. Perhaps that was a reflection of former winemaker Pascal Marchand applying the practices he had learned at Comte Armand: a lot of new oak with 100% de-stemmed fruit – not really my bag. When he departed for pastures new, incoming winemaker Pierre Vincent seemed to apply a gentler touch. The new oak is still part of the wines’ character, but there is certainly a more considered approach, plus he is more open to using whole cluster fruit. Managing such an array of wines with a relatively small team cannot be easy in challenging vintages such as 2012, or for that matter 2013. Pierre told me that his average yields were 22 hectoliters per hectare, though for the grand crus, they were down to 17 hectoliters per hectare. Importer: Boisset Family Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (800) 878-1123

robert_parker97

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from Domaine de la Vougeraie put in a stellar showing under tough peer group. It has an intriguing animally nose with just a touch of menthol infusing the black cherry and raspberry fruit that lend it a medicinal personality. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, elegant in the mouth, sensual and almost opulence, yet there is an abiding sense of control and finesse here that takes this to a higher level. There is some very assiduous skillful winemaking here. This is a Bonnes-Mares that totally rocks - up there with the Roumier and de Vogüé's of this world. Chapeau winemaker Pierre Vincent.