Wine Advisor
Vincent Girardin, Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 2017
View analysis
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: William Kelley
The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was a touch less integrated and seemingly less deep than the Bienvenues when I tasted it, though that may just reflect a stage in its élevage. Offering up aromas of ripe waxy lemons, white flowers, beeswax and crushed chalk, it's full-bodied, chewy and long, with a more foursquare but less multidimensional profile than the Bienvenues. Both are exceptional, so it will be interesting to see which performs better in bottle.
Reviewed by: William Kelley
The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is also superb. Offering up a deep and complex bouquet of citrus oil, pear, oatmeal, beeswax and wheat toast, framed by a subtle touch of reduction, the wine is full-bodied, dense and multidimensional, with a racy spine of acidity underpinning its layered, muscular core, concluding with a long and vibrant finish. "It's a vintage adapted to this vineyard," observes Germain, and it's hard to dissent. From barrel, I thought the Chevalier had the edge, but from bottle, I'm inclined to favor the Bâtard. Readers should note that this cuvée derives from a different source from the Girardin wines of yesteryear.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly pale in hue and has a rather slight bouquet at first, offering fresh green apple and wet limestone aromas. I would just like more intensity, and indeed, that does develop with 10–15 minutes’ aeration. The palate is well balanced, quite saline and sappy, showing a strong marine influence, with oyster shell and crustaceans on the finish. Very fine and complex.
About the Producer
The story begins in Santenay where Vincent’s father, Jean Girardin, divided up his estate between his four children when Vincent attained the age of 18 in 1982, which each sibling receiving three hectares. Vincent began to bottle his own wines, purchased some additional vineyards and rented others. A negociant business was started In 1994, and as this thrived Vincent was albe to increase his vineyard holdings. Presently the domaine has almost 22 hectares, almost all in white wine appellations, with plans to increase this. Early picking, less new oak and a search for vibrancy in whites and reds are the hallmarks of this Domain, which has been fully biodynamic from 2008, undergoing certification from 2009.
