Wine Advisor
Torbreck, The Descendant 2019
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Erin Larkin
2019 followed the warm (but excellent) 2018 in the Barossa, and was marred by low yields and very concentrated fruit. 2020 was another step further down that low-yielding, dry track, completing a trio of concentrated, brooding vintages that are, as the years go by, harder and harder to get ahold of. So, the 2019 Descendant includes Viognier skins in the ferment, usually around 2%, and the fruit is sourced from vines planted from cuttings from the RunRig Vineyard. A baby Runrig, if you will. So, this is silky, slippery, tannic and intense, with layers of vibrant raspberry, jasmine tea, red licorice, jelly snakes and deli meat. As usual for the Torbreck reds, the texture of the wine is velvety, plush, intense and enveloping. This ages very well, we know it does, but if you must drink it early, decant it!
About the Producer
Although only 10 years old, Tobrey Estate has some of the oldest vineyards in the Barossa Valley, Australia's most sacred wine region. David Powell, the founder of Tobrey Winery, was introduced to wine through his uncle when he was studying economics at university. In the 25 years since he graduated, David Powell has spent his time learning about winemaking at prestigious wineries and in Europe, the United States and the Barossa Valley, and in the 1990s he began reaching out to local landowners to learn about their mostly dead, overgrown and neglected vineyards. Over time, David brought them back to life. He then began negotiating contracts with landowners to use these vineyards. By the end of 2003, he had signed long-term contracts with 35 local winegrowers who owned old vine vineyards. Today, David Powell is one of Australia's leading talents in making Rhone Valley style red wines. The winery is currently owned by Pete Kight. Currently, the vineyards at Tolbray cover 250 acres (101 hectares) and are planted to Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Frontignac and Cabernet Sauvignon. Frontignac and Carbernet Sauvignon, among others. The average age of the vines is 60 years and the planting density is 1,500 vines per hectare. The winemaking philosophy of Château Tobré is based on the idea that quality wines are made in the vineyard through pre-bottling cultivation. Therefore, most of the grapes used in the winemaking are harvested from old vine vines, selected from the different sub-appellations of the Barossa Valley. The winery judges the harvest based on the ripeness of the fruit flavors, not the sugar level, so that it can obtain grapes from vines with optimal tannin, acidity and physiological ripeness. Once the grapes are harvested and returned, the winery makes the wine using very traditional winemaking techniques, starting with a gentle destemming of the grapes and then slowly pumping them into fermentation vessels with open tops, rotating them in a cycle twice a day with a mandatory complete load reduction. At the end of the fermentation process, all the skins are pressed in a basket and malolactic fermentation takes place spontaneously in barrels, using indigenous strains of bacteria from each single vineyard. All the wines of the winery are not clarified or filtered before bottling. Some of the more recent vintages of Château Toblet are 2002, 2001 and 1998.
