Wine Advisor
Tollot Beaut, Corton Bressandes Grand Cru 2016
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
(aging in one-third new oak, like the Corton; the yield here was about 40 hectoliters per hectare): Bright, dark red. Restrained nose suggests dark fruits, licorice pastille, spices, bitter chocolate and cedar, with a pungent mineral quality emerging with aeration. A sophisticated Corton grand cru with subtle intensity and complex accents of crushed stone, salty minerals and flowers. Penetrating but not hard. Finishes with subtle rising length, the firm tannins tightening up with air without going dry. Nathalie Tollot noted that this wine went through a very oaky phase but today the wood is playing a supporting role.
About the Producer
The Tollot family represents a long lineage of winegrowers dating back to the late 1880s when François Tollot began planting vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune. His son, Alexandre Tollot, continued in his father’s footsteps and married Aurélie Beaut. In 1921, Tollot-Beaut became one of the first to bottle their wines under the domaine and started exporting their wines to the U.S. shortly thereafter. Today, cousins Nathalie, Jean-Paul, and Olivier Tollot are in charge. The wines of Tollot-Beaut are well-known for their serious but pleasing style across a range of appellations from Bourgogne to Grand Cru. Chorey-lès-Beaune lies on the plains below the Côte d'Or escarpment with 136 hectares almost exclusively planted with Pinot Noir. Nearly half of Chorey-lès-Beaune is sold as Côte de Beaune-Villages. Initially, the Tollot family owned vines only in Chorey, but successive generations made small acquisitions in Savigny, Aloxe, and Beaune for a current total of 60 acres. They are the proud owners of two monopoles, Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs-Chevrey and the more recently acquired Chorey-lès-Beaune Pièce du Chapitre. Tollot-Beaut farms lutte raisonée (“reasoned struggle”) and maintains a high proportion of old vines from the highly prized Pinot Fin strain. The Tollot-Beaut cellar is in the center of Chorey-lès-Beaune on the rue Alexandre Tollot, named after Nathalie’s great grandfather who was once the Mayor of Chorey. Parts of the meticulously kept cellar are over 250 years old. Chardonnay is pressed pneumatically and starts fermentation in stainless-steel tanks before finishing alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in barrel. Pinot Noir is almost entirely de-stemmed. The wines of Tollot-Beaut were once made with more new oak but in recent years the oak influence has become subtler. Village and regional wines receive about 20% new oak while the Grand Crus receive about 60% new oak.
