Wine Advisor
Theo Dancer, Bourgogne Aligote 2022
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2022 Bourgogne Aligoté was ordered at Maison de Colombier in Beaune principally because I had not tasted the young Dancer's wines before. Firstly, I should say that I had to send back the 2021 Aligoté as the bottle was out of condition. The 2022 was much better. Fresh on the nose, this is quite subtle, with scents of lanolin and mirin well-defined considering the warmth of that year. The palate is certainly well-balanced with a bright entry, a keen line of acidity, lightly spiced with hints of ginger and even hints of red fruit towards the harmonious finish. I would have liked a little more texture but otherwise this is a finely-made Aligoté.
About the Producer
Theo Dancer was set up by Vincent Dancer's domain in 1996 in Chassagne-Montrachet.He is a name well-known among white Burgundy enthusiasts. His wines have always been sought after by a select few. When it comes to white Burgundy, there are typically two camps: the classic, with wines like Leflaive and Ramonet, known for their weight and concentration, and the new wave, pushing reduction to the extreme. Vincent Dancer, though, has managed to strike the perfect balance. What sets him apart is his consistent approach to winemaking across his entire range, combined with meticulous vineyard work. The result is a collection of transparent wines that beautifully express the unique character of their respective vineyards. Now, Vincent's son, Theo, has taken the reins, following in his father's footsteps and adding his own touch. He has also embarked on his own project, which reflects both tradition and innovation. Theo's exploration includes working with grape varieties that are unconventional for Burgundy, such as Savagnin and Pinot Gris. However, he still pays homage to classic varietals like Aligoté and Gamay. Tasting his wines, you can feel the transparency that runs in the Dancer family, combined with the vibrant energy of a talented 23-year-old winemaker. In terms of viticulture and vinification, Theo prioritizes sustainable farming and carefully selects grapes from trusted sources and vineyards. While not all the vineyards are certified organic yet, each one receives meticulous care and a hands-off approach.
