Wine Advisor
Schloss Lieser, Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese 2018
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
Lime, grapefruit and cassis mingle on the nose with yeasty, smoky fermentative residues. In keeping with the performance of this wine’s Kabinett counterpart, it exhibits an animating tang and enticing juiciness of citrus as well as an interplay of those features with crystalline stony impingements that set it aside from the majority of 2018s, and in particular from others in the present collection. Yet the feel is flatteringly creamy and glossy. The refreshingly lingering finish incorporates both nut paste and confectionary hints and citrus seed piquancy for further fascinating counterpoint on top of the aforementioned citrus-mineral exchange. It’s worth reiterating in connection with this wine’s comparatively strong showing that Haag is able to draw on eleven disparate parcels in the Goldtröpchen Einzellage.
About the Producer
Harvest is the most important thing. It can last from 4-8 weeks depending on the vintage. We pass through the vineyards 3-4 times in each parcel. Really, you must be in the right vineyard at the perfect time. This comes from long experience but also some luck, of course! Quality is always decided and selected in the vineyard. In the cellar the philosophy is very clear: We make the wines with the highest quality fruit we possibly can. Only top sites can produce great wines. In the cellar, the fermentations are always spontaneous. This is how we like our Mosel Rieslings and we feel it’s an important part of our style. We almost always use stainless steel, except for cooler vintages where we employ some oak. We don’t do macerations and we strive to do our pressing when it’s cool. We press always with low pressure as we want the wines to be fine and elegant, preferring the structure of the wines to come from extended lees contact rather than maceration or phenolics from pressing. We don’t filter the juice and do a sedimentation as we want to see relatively clear juice going into the fermentation tank. The wines ferment for as long as they need, but often fermentation takes about 6-10 weeks. After fermentation, we leave the wines on the gross lees for as long as needed. We taste the wines all the time during this period and the decision for racking is always done by taste, really when I am thinking that they are ready. After racking the wines spend three to four months on the fine lees. We decide when to rack and bottle, again, according to how the wines taste. The wines are made in very reductive conditions and so some wines take longer to be ready for bottling than others. We make wines for drinking but also for aging, so it’s important not to rush them. I always use native yeasts and have for decades. To me, the native yeasts bring more complexity, more texture, but they don’t lose the clarity that makes the wines of the Mosel so special.
