Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo La Serra 1997
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1997 Barolo La Serra boasts off-the-chart extraction levels, with huge power, glycerin, and alcohol. The acidity is low, and there is an element of sur-maturite to the wine's black fruit character. This opulently styled, viscously-textured, opaque ruby/purple-colored wine is atypical, but wow, what an amazing drinking experience! My instincts suggest this wine will become more delineated and structured as it continues its evolution in cask/foudre and bottle. It is extremely high in tannin, even though most of it is hidden by the flamboyant display of glycerin, fruit, and alcohol. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2025. Importer: Viva Vino, Eddystone, PA; tel. (610) 872-1500
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1997 Barolo La Serra is a sexy, dense ruby/purple-colored effort offering notes of currants, black cherries, and licorice, a huge, chewy texture, plenty of glycerin, and a creamy, supple, velvety finish. Although impossible to resist, it will develop even more nuances over the next 4-5 years, and should last for two decades. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2023. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
