Wine Advisor
Roagna, Barolo Vigna Rionda 2003
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Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2003 Barolo Vigna Rionda is the newest addition to the estate’s line-up. Barolo lovers are well aware that Vigna Rionda is one of the most legendary sites in wine, so a new label is sure to elicit a high level of interest. Roagna’s Vigna Rionda is made from the oldest and most historic part of the hill, the same plots that were the source of the most legendary Riondas made in the past. Roagna’s 2003 Barolo Vigna Rionda opens with the essence of rose petals followed by gorgeous layers of red cherries, baking spices, cocoa, leather, menthol and licorice. At once delicate and powerful, it captures the essence of this famed site with remarkable elegance considering the less-than-ideal quality of the vintage. The 2003 Rionda saw a shorter period of oak aging than is typical for the estate’s other Barolos and I can’t help thinking that has helped maintain an additional level of vibrancy here. This is a promising Barolo, and it will be fascinating to see what Roagna can do in less extreme vintages. For now, it is an auspicious debut. Barolo is never inexpensive, but this wine offers superb value for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Luca Roagna is one of the most promising young winemakers in the Langhe. Low yields, late harvests, long macerations and extended periods of oak aging are the rule at this traditionally-minded estate. Historically Barolo and Barbaresco were left to macerate on the skins until around the Christmas holidays, a practice unheard of today but still followed here. The normal bottlings of Barolo and Barbaresco typically see around 50 days of maceration while the selections may see as many as 75 days. The wines then undergo a lengthy sojourn in oak which allows them to develop the tertiary notes that the estate seeks. The wines spend an additional year to year and a half of bottle age before being released. I have mixed feelings about the long oak aging the estate prefers. In some cases the wines have the stuffing to stand up to extended periods in oak, but in other cases I can't help thinking the wines would retain more fruit and freshness if they were bottled earlier. The wines are also very delicate and don't respond well to sudden movement or temperature changes immediately prior to serving. I have had my best luck letting them gradually warm from cold cellar temperature and opening them several hours before serving. Readers who appreciated traditionally made wines should be sure to put Roagna on their radar screens. Importer: Louis Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2003 Barolo Vigna Rionda is the newest addition to the estate's line-up. Barolo lovers are well aware that Vigna Rionda is one of the most legendary sites in wine, so a new label is sure to elicit a high level of interest. Roagna's Vigna Rionda is made from the oldest and most h istoric part of the hill, the same plots that were the source of the most legendary Riondas made in the past. Roagna's 2003 Barolo Vigna Riondaopens with the essence of rose petals followed by gorgeous layers of red cherries, baking spices, cocoa, leather, menthol and licorice. At once delicate and powerful, it captures the essence of this famed site with remarkable elegance considering the less-than-ideal quality of the vintage. The 2003 Rionda saw a shorter period of oak aging than is typical for the estate's other Barolos and I can't help thinking that has helped maintain an additional level of vibrancy here. this is a prom ising Barolo, and it will be fascinating to see what Roagna can do in less extreme vintages. For now, it is an auspicious debut. Barolo is never inexpensive, but this wine offers superb value for the money.
About the Producer
The fine estate of Roagna has long roots in the commune of Barbaresco, having been started very early in the twentieth century by Vincenzo Roagna. Vincenzo passed on the reigns to his son Giovanni Roagna, who in his turn saw his son Alfredo succeed him as the head of the estate. Today the property is run by Luca Roagna, the fifth generation of the family. Luca was born in 1980 and succeeded to winemaking for the property soon after his graduation from oenological school in 2001. The style of the estate’s wines has been carefully passed down through all five generations of Roagna family, with the wines made in a very traditional and classic style. These are deep, complex and structured wines that are built to age and handsomely reward cellaring. The heart of the Roagna estate is its six and a half hectares of vineyards in the commune of Barbaresco, most of these lying in the fine cru of Pajè. From the Pajè vineyard the Roagna family now makes three distinct cuvées, a Barbaresco “normale” labeled as Barbaresco “Pajè,” a Barbaresco Paje Vecchie Vite and “Crichët Pajè" - made from the crest of the Paje cru. In 1989 the family’s long-held aspirations of owning top level crus in Barolo comparable to their Pajè holdings in Barbaresco came true, when they purchased a parcel historically known as La Rocche e La Pira, in the fabled village of Castiglione Falletto. The vinification techniques at Roagna are still traditional though Luca has made noteworthy improvements and changes to the process. The fermentations are in cask and the macerations have gone from around thirty days to, on average, 60-90 days. The aging regimen depends a bit on the cru and vintage but go from 2-3 years to sometimes 8-10 and as much as 15-16 years for the Riserva, part of which is in cement. Luca has also switched all of their oak to the highest quality French oak that is 10cm thick – twice the thickness of a standard cask. These casks allow for a very slow and micro-oxygenation which adds to the elegance of the finished wines. In addition to their fine Barbaresco and Barolo bottlings, the property also makes a Langhe Rosso cuvée from “younger Nebbiolo vines” which in Luca’s case are under 25 years – hardly young by other producers’ standards. He also produces a chewy and intensely flavored Dolcetto, and a white wine that is a blend of 75-80% chardonnay and 20-25% Nebbiolo (vinified without the skins) which they label as Langhe Bianco Solea. The Langhe Bianco Solea is held for three years prior to release by the winery, and is a medium-full, fresh and pure white that typically offers up an aromatic blend of pear, flowers, a touch of honey and pastry cream. All of the estate’s wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
