Wine Advisor
Rene Engel, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2003
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the Burgundy 2003 dinner (non-blind.) This is a very impressive Clos Vougeot from Engel. Open knit and expressive on the nose, wild strawberry, red cherry and just a hint of hawthorn. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy and sensuous with silky smooth tannins and superb weight. Very pure, very ravishing with nice backbone on the finish that should serve this wine for 5-8 years or more. Such brightness and clarity. Wonderful. Drink now-2018. Tasted April 2009.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Like the Echezeaux, very elegant and refined with wild strawberry and morello cherry. Good weight on the mid-palate with well-integrated, solid tannins. Has a sur-bois character on the finish. Focused and good length. Strong finish. Excellent. Drink from 2010. Tasted January 2005.
Reviewed by: Pierre Rovani
The 2003 Clos Vougeot explodes from the glass with licorice, dark cherries, and a myriad of spices. A wine of considerable depth, it is packed with suave black fruits immersed in chocolate. Well-structured, ripe, and exceptionally long, it will merit a higher score if its alcoholic warmth is absorbed into the wine with time (something that sometimes occurs with Pinot Noirs). Projected maturity: 2008-2017. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93
About the Producer
Domaine René Engel was one of the leading lights of Vosne-Romanée until the tragic death of Philippe Engel, grandson of the founder, in 2005. Philippe took over the domaine on the early death of his father Pierre in 1981. However he continued to benefit from the advice of his legendary grandfather, René Engel, for several years, though occasionally having to ban him from the cellar when his interventions were becoming too intrusive. By the early 1990s he had established his reputation for making exceptionally delicious wines. He had a light hand with extraction, preferring to emphasise the natural qualities of the fruit, supported by the judicious use of new oak – rarely more than 50% except for the grand crus in exceptional vintages. The wines were fine and elegant, deceptively approachable when young though capable of long ageing. Perhaps the heyday of Philippe’s period in charge was around 1992 and 1993, by which time he had fully found his style and was running the domaine with energy and passion. The flagship of the 6 hectare domaine was a wonderful Clos Vougeot from near the top of the Clos, along with a very fine Grands Echezeaux. These were supported by a third grand cru, Echezeaux, premier cru Vosne Romanée Les Brulées and a delicious village Vosne Romanée. Five wines were made: a village Vosne-Romanée from numerous plots totalling 2.5 hectares; a premier cru Les Brûlées (1.05 hectares) from old vines, the youngest being planted in 1956 by a combination of René and Pierre Engel who somehow did not quite get their rows to meet; and three grands crus, Echézeaux (0.55 hectare), Clos Vougeot (1.37 hectares) and Grands Echézeaux (0.50 hectare). It seemed to vary according to the year which of Clos de Vougeot and Grands Echézeaux turned out to be the finest wine. Both were usually outstanding, and a clear cut ahead of the Echézeaux. The Clos came from a single plot, very well situated on the upper-mid slopes just south of the château itself.
