William Fevre, Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent 2023

robert_parker 2020

Rating: 95 –95

One of the finest wines in the portfolio this year is the 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, a taut, youthfully reserved bottling of immense promise. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, beeswax, crisp white peach, white flowers, freshly baked bread and oyster shell, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with terrific tensioning intensity in a tightly wound format. It's warmly recommended, though patience will be required.

robert_parker 2019

Rating: 94 –94

Cropped at a mere 34 hectoliters per hectare, the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is superb, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, crisp green orchard fruit, white peach, iodine and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with racy acids and a long, iodine-inflected finish, it's the most complete premier cru in the range.

robert_parker 2018

Rating: 94 –94

As usual, the 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is one of the finest premiers crus in the cellar, delivering an incipiently complex bouquet of fresh peach, crisp green orchard fruit, dried white flowers, smoke and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, it's layered and multidimensional, with fine depth at the core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish.

robert_parker 2018

Rating: 91 –93

The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent bursts with aromas of fresh peach, orange rind, white flowers and apples. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with broad shoulders, chewy extract and lively acids. This is already quite complete, even at this early stage, and would appear to number among the highlights of the range this year—though that's hardly a surprise.

robert_parker 2017

Rating: 92 –94

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent promises to be the finest of Fèvre's premiers crus this year, unfurling in the glass with a classy bouquet of peach, oystershell, iodine and spice, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and textural, with lovely stony depth and tension, concluding with a saline finish. Perhaps it's simply the power of association, but I'm tempted to identify an echo of neighboring Les Preuses here.

robert_parker 2017

Rating: 94 –94

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is a terrific effort that's one of the finest premier cru bottlings from Fèvre that I've ever tasted. Unwinding in the glass with a lively bouquet of fresh peach, green apples, spring blossom, oyster shell and wheat toast, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with exceptional concentration, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. Didier Séguier should be very proud of this weightless but intense Vaulorent, a wine that outshines plenty of grand cru Chablis this year.

robert_parker 2016

The 2016 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaulorent was very reduced on the nose, which made it difficult to see through. The palate seems a little shallow at the moment when compared to other premier crus. Perhaps this is a cru disturbed by the frost and mildew? Let's see how it turns out in bottle.

robert_parker 2015

Rating: 91 –93

The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaulorent is a selection parcellaire within the vineyard. It has a tightly wound, quite backward bouquet that demands coaxing from the glass, hints of white flower developing with time, albeit reluctantly. The palate is well balanced with hints of orange cordial on the entry, harmonious with touches of yellow plum and dried honey towards the harmonious finish. This will benefit from 3-4 years in bottle, but it should evolve into a crisp, taut and classic Chablis.

robert_parker 2015

Rating: 92 –92

The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaulorent showed so well when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle, it has a well-defined bouquet with hints of white flower developing in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity. A very pretty Chablis with hints of orange sorbet and dried apricot leading to a precise and classy finish. What a superb Vaulorent—this comes recommended.

robert_parker 2014

Rating: 92 –92

Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, Fevre's 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent has a a noticeable marine influence on the nose, sea spray and cockle sheds merging with citrus lemon and flint. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, quite vibrant in the mouth with a fine, tensile finish. There is a coda on the aftertaste, touches of the sea returning with even a tang of seaweed. Very fine but subtle and understated.

robert_parker 2014

Rating: 92 –94

The 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, which head winemaker Didier Séguier described as "a baby grand cru," was a little cloudier than the Fourchaume in the glass. It has a complex nose with a touch of grilled almond and dried apricot, well defined but just a little sultry at the moment. The palate is relatively rich on the entry compared to the other Premier Crus and this lends roundness and suppleness in the mouth. It gently builds with great precision, hints of lime and apricot flourishing on the peacock's tail of a finish. This is one of William Fevre's best wines this year.

robert_parker 2013

Rating: 87 –87

The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent has a peachy, apricot-scented bouquet that is more outgoing and fruit-driven than the Fourchaume, although I do not discern the same level of mineralité. The palate is fresh and crisp, rounded in the mouth, but it is missing the tension and the drive of the 2014. Drink over the next 4 to 5 years.

robert_parker 2012

Rating: 92 –92

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent comes from the remaining 60-year-old vines that Didier Seguier believes elevates quality toward grand cru level. It has a lifted bouquet with limestone and citrus aromas that are very precise. The palate is crisp and fresh, very nicely poised and there is a gradual build in concentration to a very tense finish that is a little spicier than the Fourchaume. Excellent. Drink 2017-2028+ In my previous life working for a Japanese importer, William Fevre happened to be our supplier of Chablis. This was in the twilight days of its family status, just before the company was acquired by the champagne house, Joseph Henriot in 1998, precipitated by the retraite of William Fevre himself. In 1959, he had joined Domaine de la Maladiere and set about purchasing choice cuts of premier and grand cru vineyard during Chablis’ nadir in the 1960s. He subsequently fought for the notion of le vrai Chablis, vociferously opposing the INAO’s ambitions to expand the boundaries of the region and potentially dilute quality. Then, after a long and successful career and with neither daughter bitten by the wine bug, he had little option but to sell the company. Somewhat confusingly Henriot henceforth changed the marque to William Fevre. The man himself can still be seen walking around the winery, popping into its popular bistro to keep an eye on everything. Now well into his 80s, he is a little hard of hearing, but his interest in both his company and the region remains undimmed and was still tangible when I met him again. His retirement marked a point where their oft-lamented oaky, buttery Chablis erred toward a crisper and mineral-driven style. Oak barrels are not eschewed per se, but there is now a more prudent and sympathetic usage so that it complements rather than dominates the fruit. Since the late 1990s, their wines became more terroir-driven and more in tune with what consumers were seeking in Chablis. While the enterprise is too large and commercial to have the kudos of, say, Francois Raveneau or Vincent Dauvissat, I cannot think of a better introduction to the region. Quite rightly, William Fevre is now one of Chablis’ most respected producers. For this tasting, I sampled their entire range of 2012s, both from the negociant and domaine side of the business, which have been labelled accordingly. Head winemaker Didier Seguier was on hand to guide me through. Didier was born in Cognac but grew up in Blaye in Bordeaux. He had to move sticks in 1992 when he won his first post at Bouchard Pere et Fils, working alongside Philippe Prost. He was appointed technical director at William Fevre after the company had been sold to Henriot and thereafter abandoned the use of new oak so that the average barrel age is 5 or 6 years (sourced from Bouchard as you might expect.) Didier oversaw the conversion of their vines to organic viticulture in 2006, although there is no certification. “Most of the vines are through massal selection and tend to give weak yields, so green harvesting is not necessary,” he explained. “We began to harvest on September 20 to conserve the acidity,” he told me. “We harvested between 8 and 10 days, which is very quick for a 50-hectare estate with 90 different parcels. Nowadays, we are 100% organic, but we are not certified and to be honest, it does not interest me. We started biodynamic trials in 2010. With regard to the 2012, it is the most homogenous vintage in the fifteen years since I have been here. C’est un grand millesime. The wines are fruity with lots of purity and it will be a vintage to cellar. Compared to 2011 and 2013, those vintages have slightly less acidity and they are vintages of pleasure that should be consumed earlier than 2012.” For several years, William Fevre has chosen to bottle its entire range under DIAM cork. As for the wines they shield from TCA, well, it was as expected, an almost clinical journey through the finest enclaves of Chablis. There is always a sense of complete control with regard to William Fevre. Part of me suspects that they will never produce the greatest Chablis of a vintage – there is not enough of the maverick to peel one of their grand crus away from the peloton and create something truly exceptional. On the other hand, it is difficult to find another wide-ranging portfolio that does not put a foot wrong and delivers quality where you expect it. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells (UK)

robert_parker 2012

Rating: 93 –94

As usual, Fevre’s 2012 Chablis Vaulorent – tasted assembled from tank – puts its predecessors in the present line-up into perspective and upholds its reputation as “eighth grand cru” of Chablis. A wealth of mineral allusions – smoke, oyster shell, struck flint, salt, iodine – informs both an intriguing nose and a gloriously mouthwatering palate saturated with fresh citrus, clam juices and oyster liqueur, incorporating an invigorating tang of pineapple close to the core, and persisting with utmost transparency to multifarious mineral elements. The energy conveyed here positively shimmers, yet there is already textural allure to complement the austere and tart aspects of a wine apt to excite through at least 2022. Didier Seguier and his team (consult previous Wine Advocate reports on Chablis for much more about their strikingly successful methods) began picking already on September 20, 2012 and, with allowance for two days break due to rain, finished on October 2. Yields, especially in the upper classificatory echelons, were low – typically between 28 and 35 hectoliters per hectare (though in one instance a mere 18!) depending on cru. “The wines,” says Seguier – who’s obviously very bullish on them – “are consequently ripe, concentrated, and plenty rich, with natural alcohol between 12.8-13.2% and acidity as ample as that of 2010. They have the same level of minerality as the 2010s, too, but are even a little more concentrated.” While the 2011 harvest here – which began already at the end of August – broke all but 2003’s record, Seguier was at pains to point out that this is virtually where the similarities between those two vintages end, and that indeed, it was 2012, not 2011, that brought extreme heat – though then only in mid-August. Most of the Fevre 2012s did not finish malo until May, which Seguier attributes to the musts’ low pHs, a feature he points to as an index of their relatively high – hence felicitous – ratio of tartaric to malic acids. The premier crus were set to be bottled through the autumn; the grand crus in December or January. Fevre is completing the process of converting its grand crus to a biodynamic viticultural regimen and will soon commence that transition on the Left Bank. (Based on quite consistent pricing in recent years, I have taken the liberty of inserting retail benchmarks based on other recent vintages, which also permits readers to see which Fevre bottlings are typically offered stateside.) Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706

robert_parker 2011

Rating: 89 –89

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent 2011 from William Fèvre is much more reserved on the nose with faint touches of almond and hazelnut, perhaps more Montmains in style. The palate is balanced with orange cordial, lime and hints of papaya. The acidity is nicely judged, although it needs more tension and complexity toward the finish. This is probably the one Chablis premier cru that I was expecting a little more from.

robert_parker 2011

Rating: 90 –92

The 2011 Chablis Vaulorent is a big wine packed with serious density in its fruit. Ideally, the 2011 is best cellared for several years to allow the richness of the fruit to settle down, although I have a hard time saying that, given how much of a gamble aging these wines can be. Still, today the overarching impression is of a huge, implosive wine drenched in minerality that needs time to blossom. There is a level of inner energy here that is highly appealing. Tasted next to the Fourchaume, the Vaulorent is all about power, while the Fourchaume seems to be a bit more finessed. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. (Not yet released) Fevre was among the first producers to bring in their 2011s. The 2011 harvest started on August 31st, the earliest on record with the exception of 2003. Winemaker Didier Seguir was quick to add that 2011 was a precocious year, but not as shockingly hot as 2003. Early April and May were very hot, which led to an early flowering, but then temperatures moderated in June. Hail at the end of June and early July affected Fourchaume, Vaulorent, Preuses, Vaudesir and Clos, all on the right bank, where production was down 5-30%, which placed yields at 40-50 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the 50-60 that were obtained on the left bank, where hail was not an issue. Seguir lightly chaptalized some of the wines, and noted that the acidities came in around 4-4.5%, which he describes as moderate (along the lines of 2000 and 2002) and lower than 2008 and 2010. When the Fevre wines are young, they appear to be very tight and in need of cellaring. At the same time, it is hard for me to suggest holding these wines for more than a few years, as I have personally had a lot of issues with premature oxidation with Fevre wines from my own cellar. To be fair, since 2007 all of the wines have been sealed with the Diamant corks, which are made from a combination of natural and synthetic materials designed to allow for the gradual exchange of oxygen that is so important for wines to age gracefully with more reliability than standard cork. The 2011 Petit Chablis was bottled at the end of April 2012, followed by the Champs Royaux in May and the Chablis (domaine) in early June. All of the other 2011s were still aging on their lees in tank. As has been the custom here for the last few years, Seguir does a fairly short elevage in largely neutral oak that lasts 4-6 months, after which the wines age in tank. Note: the overwhelming majority of the Fevre wines are Domaine Fevre, but there are a few wines in this lineup that are made from purchased fruit. Those wines are identified as (maison) in the wine name. There are two bottlings that are made in both a domaine and maison version, the straight Chablis (I only tasted the domaine bottling) and the Montmains (I tasted both). The 2010 premier crus were bottled after the 2011 vintage, while the grand crus were bottled last December. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 670

robert_parker 2011

Rating: 93 –93

Salted, herbed chicken stock laced with fresh lemon in the nose of Fevre’s 2011 Chablis Vaulorent could scarcely have come from anywhere save this region of the wine world, and those aforementioned elements go on to serve for saliva-stimulating savor on a polished and buoyant palate. Hints of raw scallop add further mouthwatering allure to a lingering, soothing finish. This should prove memorably versatile through at least 2018, but do not hesitate to enjoy some now! Didier Seguier and his team (consult previous Wine Advocate reports on Chablis for much more about their strikingly successful methods) began picking already on September 20, 2012 and, with allowance for two days break due to rain, finished on October 2. Yields, especially in the upper classificatory echelons, were low – typically between 28 and 35 hectoliters per hectare (though in one instance a mere 18!) depending on cru. “The wines,” says Seguier – who’s obviously very bullish on them – “are consequently ripe, concentrated, and plenty rich, with natural alcohol between 12.8-13.2% and acidity as ample as that of 2010. They have the same level of minerality as the 2010s, too, but are even a little more concentrated.” While the 2011 harvest here – which began already at the end of August – broke all but 2003’s record, Seguier was at pains to point out that this is virtually where the similarities between those two vintages end, and that indeed, it was 2012, not 2011, that brought extreme heat – though then only in mid-August. Most of the Fevre 2012s did not finish malo until May, which Seguier attributes to the musts’ low pHs, a feature he points to as an index of their relatively high – hence felicitous – ratio of tartaric to malic acids. The premier crus were set to be bottled through the autumn; the grand crus in December or January. Fevre is completing the process of converting its grand crus to a biodynamic viticultural regimen and will soon commence that transition on the Left Bank. (Based on quite consistent pricing in recent years, I have taken the liberty of inserting retail benchmarks based on other recent vintages, which also permits readers to see which Fevre bottlings are typically offered stateside.) Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706

robert_parker 2010

Rating: 94 –94

The 2010 Chablis Vaulorent is striking. It shows plenty of richness but very little in the way of excess weight. There is plenty of depth waiting to emerge from this expressive, mineral-drenched Chablis. Mint, flowers and white stone fruits wrap around the pure, beautifully delineated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Fevre was among the first producers to bring in their 2011s. The 2011 harvest started on August 31st, the earliest on record with the exception of 2003. Winemaker Didier Seguir was quick to add that 2011 was a precocious year, but not as shockingly hot as 2003. Early April and May were very hot, which led to an early flowering, but then temperatures moderated in June. Hail at the end of June and early July affected Fourchaume, Vaulorent, Preuses, Vaudesir and Clos, all on the right bank, where production was down 5-30%, which placed yields at 40-50 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the 50-60 that were obtained on the left bank, where hail was not an issue. Seguir lightly chaptalized some of the wines, and noted that the acidities came in around 4-4.5%, which he describes as moderate (along the lines of 2000 and 2002) and lower than 2008 and 2010. When the Fevre wines are young, they appear to be very tight and in need of cellaring. At the same time, it is hard for me to suggest holding these wines for more than a few years, as I have personally had a lot of issues with premature oxidation with Fevre wines from my own cellar. To be fair, since 2007 all of the wines have been sealed with the Diamant corks, which are made from a combination of natural and synthetic materials designed to allow for the gradual exchange of oxygen that is so important for wines to age gracefully with more reliability than standard cork. The 2011 Petit Chablis was bottled at the end of April 2012, followed by the Champs Royaux in May and the Chablis (domaine) in early June. All of the other 2011s were still aging on their lees in tank. As has been the custom here for the last few years, Seguir does a fairly short elevage in largely neutral oak that lasts 4-6 months, after which the wines age in tank. Note: the overwhelming majority of the Fevre wines are Domaine Fevre, but there are a few wines in this lineup that are made from purchased fruit. Those wines are identified as (maison) in the wine name. There are two bottlings that are made in both a domaine and maison version, the straight Chablis (I only tasted the domaine bottling) and the Montmains (I tasted both). The 2010 premier crus were bottled after the 2011 vintage, while the grand crus were bottled last December. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 670

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 91 –91

This has superb minerality and precision on the limestone dominated bouquet that could only be Chablis. The palate has crisp green apple on the entry, very harmonious, although it just lacks a little weight on the ultra dry finish. Tasted January 2011.

robert_parker 2008

Rating: 95 –95

Fevre’s 2008 Chablis Vaulorent – which, following my argumentative recommendation mentioned in issue 186, has been labeled without the name “Fourchaume” – lives up to the estate’s long-standing characterization of this site as their “eighth grand cru.” Blueberry and raspberry distillate as well as fresh lime, grapefruit and crushed stone both intrigue and invigorate on the nose, impressions reinforced on a palate that combines real richness of texture as well as succulence of fruit with bright acidity, citrus rind pungency, berry skin tartness, and a depth of marine mineral nuances. Vibrantly interactive and faintly sizzling in finish, this practically takes your breath away, and should continue dazzling for a decade or more. And given that this isn’t priced as a grand cru, it represents a remarkable Chablis buying opportunity. Perhaps in the final analysis most of the “genuine” Fevre grand crus have further to traverse in their evolution than this Vaulorent and will eventually overtake it in complexity, length, and energy ? perhaps. The 2008 collection fielded by Didier Seguier and his team maintains their recent streak of excellence, but in a reversal of vintage typicity, seems, if anything, more dominated by its acidity and minerality than the 2007s, and less effusive than many of its vintage. Between poor flowering and dehydration, the crop was down around 20% in 2008 even from that of its hail-trimmed predecessor. The wines as usual were racked from barrel after malo (which this year, meant in April); some were bottled during the summer but the grand crus and most of the premier crus were bottled last November and December. Several of the wines that I tasted (noted in the text, and of course labeled without the word “domaine”) incorporate purchased fruit, but beginning with this vintage, the Fevre team not only calls the shots but does the picking for all of the grapes that inform wines labeled with their name. Like Hugel in Alsace, Fevre has been impressed enough with the new generation of DIAM composite corks to adopt them for a majority of their bottlings, in fact with this vintage for everything save grand cru – so let’s hope their confidence is well-placed! It perhaps also bears repeating that in my opinion there isn’t a track record for aging yet that one can apply to Fevre’s last three collections, the quality having improved too much to extrapolate with any reliably from previous vintages, so please take my prognoses as intuitive hunches. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706

robert_parker 2008

Rating: 89 –89

Chalkier on the nose, well defined, a little subdued at the moment but the clarity is promising. The palate has more weight on the entry than the Montmain, slightly lower acidity perhaps, delicate tropical fruits such as mango and white peach towards the weight finish. More generous than I expected, but just missing a little complexity. Drink now-2018. Tasted January 2010.

vinous 2015

Rating: 89 –89

The 2015 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru is a little flatter on the nose compared to its peers. The slightly honeyed palate is well balanced, showing impressive weight and concentration and a touch of ginger toward the grippy finish. This should improve with another year in bottle. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

vinous 2015

Rating: 91 –91

Very pale, bright, green-tinged yellow. Subtle aromas of lemon, white pepper, spices and herbs. Sweet, round and rich, delivering the creaminess of the vintage energized by sound lemony acidity and underlying wet-stone minerality. Finishes with a bit more energy and saline grip than the Montmains.

robert_parker 2021

Rating: 94 –94

The 2021 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is another of the range's highlights, bursting with aromas of white flowers, sweet citrus oil, white peach and blanched almonds. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it's concentrated and complete, with racy acids and a saline, orange blossom-inflected finish.

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 93 –93

The 2009 Chablis Vaulorent is a big, voluminous wine. The old vines speak eloquently in deep layers of yellow peaches, stone fruits and minerals. This really blossoms in the glass, showing superb depth and pedigree. The finish literally stains the palate with masses of fruit. The ripeness and exuberance of the fruit is very well balanced by the wine’s persistent minerality and broad, expansive frame. This is a selection of the estate’s best fruit from eight separate parcels in Vaulorent, which itself lies within Fourchaume, the only premier cru on the grand cru hillside. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 6706

robert_parker 2010

Rating: 94 –94

The 2010 Chablis Vaulorent is striking. It shows plenty of richness but very little in the way of excess weight. There is plenty of depth waiting to emerge from this expressive, mineral-drenched Chablis. Mint, flowers and white stone fruits wrap around the pure, beautifully delineated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Fevre was among the first producers to bring in their 2011s. The 2011 harvest started on August 31st, the earliest on record with the exception of 2003. Winemaker Didier Seguir was quick to add that 2011 was a precocious year, but not as shockingly hot as 2003. Early April and May were very hot, which led to an early flowering, but then temperatures moderated in June. Hail at the end of June and early July affected Fourchaume, Vaulorent, Preuses, Vaudesir and Clos, all on the right bank, where production was down 5-30%, which placed yields at 40-50 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the 50-60 that were obtained on the left bank, where hail was not an issue. Seguir lightly chaptalized some of the wines, and noted that the acidities came in around 4-4.5%, which he describes as moderate (along the lines of 2000 and 2002) and lower than 2008 and 2010. When the Fevre wines are young, they appear to be very tight and in need of cellaring. At the same time, it is hard for me to suggest holding these wines for more than a few years, as I have personally had a lot of issues with premature oxidation with Fevre wines from my own cellar. To be fair, since 2007 all of the wines have been sealed with the Diamant corks, which are made from a combination of natural and synthetic materials designed to allow for the gradual exchange of oxygen that is so important for wines to age gracefully with more reliability than standard cork. The 2011 Petit Chablis was bottled at the end of April 2012, followed by the Champs Royaux in May and the Chablis (domaine) in early June. All of the other 2011s were still aging on their lees in tank. As has been the custom here for the last few years, Seguir does a fairly short elevage in largely neutral oak that lasts 4-6 months, after which the wines age in tank. Note: the overwhelming majority of the Fevre wines are Domaine Fevre, but there are a few wines in this lineup that are made from purchased fruit. Those wines are identified as (maison) in the wine name. There are two bottlings that are made in both a domaine and maison version, the straight Chablis (I only tasted the domaine bottling) and the Montmains (I tasted both). The 2010 premier crus were bottled after the 2011 vintage, while the grand crus were bottled last December. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 670

robert_parker 2012

Rating: 92 –92

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent comes from the remaining 60-year-old vines that Didier Seguier believes elevates quality toward grand cru level. It has a lifted bouquet with limestone and citrus aromas that are very precise. The palate is crisp and fresh, very nicely poised and there is a gradual build in concentration to a very tense finish that is a little spicier than the Fourchaume. Excellent. Drink 2017-2028+ In my previous life working for a Japanese importer, William Fevre happened to be our supplier of Chablis. This was in the twilight days of its family status, just before the company was acquired by the champagne house, Joseph Henriot in 1998, precipitated by the retraite of William Fevre himself. In 1959, he had joined Domaine de la Maladiere and set about purchasing choice cuts of premier and grand cru vineyard during Chablis’ nadir in the 1960s. He subsequently fought for the notion of le vrai Chablis, vociferously opposing the INAO’s ambitions to expand the boundaries of the region and potentially dilute quality. Then, after a long and successful career and with neither daughter bitten by the wine bug, he had little option but to sell the company. Somewhat confusingly Henriot henceforth changed the marque to William Fevre. The man himself can still be seen walking around the winery, popping into its popular bistro to keep an eye on everything. Now well into his 80s, he is a little hard of hearing, but his interest in both his company and the region remains undimmed and was still tangible when I met him again. His retirement marked a point where their oft-lamented oaky, buttery Chablis erred toward a crisper and mineral-driven style. Oak barrels are not eschewed per se, but there is now a more prudent and sympathetic usage so that it complements rather than dominates the fruit. Since the late 1990s, their wines became more terroir-driven and more in tune with what consumers were seeking in Chablis. While the enterprise is too large and commercial to have the kudos of, say, Francois Raveneau or Vincent Dauvissat, I cannot think of a better introduction to the region. Quite rightly, William Fevre is now one of Chablis’ most respected producers. For this tasting, I sampled their entire range of 2012s, both from the negociant and domaine side of the business, which have been labelled accordingly. Head winemaker Didier Seguier was on hand to guide me through. Didier was born in Cognac but grew up in Blaye in Bordeaux. He had to move sticks in 1992 when he won his first post at Bouchard Pere et Fils, working alongside Philippe Prost. He was appointed technical director at William Fevre after the company had been sold to Henriot and thereafter abandoned the use of new oak so that the average barrel age is 5 or 6 years (sourced from Bouchard as you might expect.) Didier oversaw the conversion of their vines to organic viticulture in 2006, although there is no certification. “Most of the vines are through massal selection and tend to give weak yields, so green harvesting is not necessary,” he explained. “We began to harvest on September 20 to conserve the acidity,” he told me. “We harvested between 8 and 10 days, which is very quick for a 50-hectare estate with 90 different parcels. Nowadays, we are 100% organic, but we are not certified and to be honest, it does not interest me. We started biodynamic trials in 2010. With regard to the 2012, it is the most homogenous vintage in the fifteen years since I have been here. C’est un grand millesime. The wines are fruity with lots of purity and it will be a vintage to cellar. Compared to 2011 and 2013, those vintages have slightly less acidity and they are vintages of pleasure that should be consumed earlier than 2012.” For several years, William Fevre has chosen to bottle its entire range under DIAM cork. As for the wines they shield from TCA, well, it was as expected, an almost clinical journey through the finest enclaves of Chablis. There is always a sense of complete control with regard to William Fevre. Part of me suspects that they will never produce the greatest Chablis of a vintage – there is not enough of the maverick to peel one of their grand crus away from the peloton and create something truly exceptional. On the other hand, it is difficult to find another wide-ranging portfolio that does not put a foot wrong and delivers quality where you expect it. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells (UK)

robert_parker 2011

Rating: 89 –89

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent 2011 from William Fèvre is much more reserved on the nose with faint touches of almond and hazelnut, perhaps more Montmains in style. The palate is balanced with orange cordial, lime and hints of papaya. The acidity is nicely judged, although it needs more tension and complexity toward the finish. This is probably the one Chablis premier cru that I was expecting a little more from.

robert_parker 2022

Rating: 95 –95

There are some 7,000 bottles of the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, a cuvée where Didier Séguier permits himself the the luxury of using only Fèvre's best old-vine parcels and which is always one of the high points of the range. Wafting from the glass with notes of citrus oil, oyster liquor, white flowers and hazelnuts, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure, with excellent concentration, racy acids and a long, saline finish.

james_suckling 2017

Rating: 94 –94

A wealth of limes and lemons, in pithy and flinty mode here, as well as oyster shell and subtle biscuit spices. The palate has such succulent and taut, dry and pithy lemon flavor with breathtakingly pure resolve. This is striking. Drink or hold.

james_suckling 2018

Rating: 93 –93

Ripe apples and pears with crushed-stone undertones on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, creamy and layered with a subtle, focused finish. Drink or hold.

james_suckling 2019

Rating: 93 –93

Another linear and tight premier cru with sliced lemon, apple and some white pepper and chalk. It’s medium body. Clean and linear. Drink now.