vinous 2017
Rating: 92 –92
Apple seed and wet stone on the nose anticipate a somewhat austere palate impression, though fortunately not one lacking in fresh apple and pear juiciness. The feel here is subtly waxy. Fruit skin chewiness lends invigorating tang to a finish whose simultaneous richness seamlessly perpetuates the wine’s midpalate impression, and to which alkaline and stony notes lend fascinating counterpoint. Not for the first time, I prefer the exuberance and sheer sensual appeal of the ostensibly lesser “Porphyr” bottling, but time may bring an extra measure of depth to this Höllberg.