Robert Weil, Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2019

Germany · Rheingau · Kiedrich · White · Still · wine-wine · 1304617

Market

Lowest offer: 23.33333333333333333333333333 GBP (Buy)

Offers: 2 · Bids: 0

Offers

Price / case Vintage Packing Qty Location
140.00 GBP 2019 6 x 75cl 1 uk / United Kingdom
140.00 GBP 2019 6 x 75cl 1 uk / United Kingdom

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Vintages & packings

Vintage Packing Offers Bids Market price WA rating
2014 6 x 75cl 0 0 93
2016 6 x 75cl 0 0
2018 6 x 75cl 0 0
2019 12 x 75cl 0 0
2019 6 x 75cl 2 0
2020 6 x 75cl 0 0

Critic ratings

robert_parker 2013

Rating: 93 –93

The 2013 Turmberg is very pure and refined on the nose where stony/dusty mineral flavors dominate rather bright and precise fruit aromas. Very firm, straight and piquant on the palate, this is a rather lean more than rich style. Though it is still a persistent and lovely piquant Riesling showing impressive precision in its white peach flavors. Like the Klosterberg it should have excellent aging potential.

robert_parker 2011

Rating: 92 –92

Even the aromas of Weil’s 2011 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling trocken set my salivary glands pumping with their suggestions of sea breeze and freshly shucked oyster. Amid these waft bittersweet floral notes – which I associate with Kiedrich sites generally – as well as struck-flint pungency and intimations of the white peach and lime that then form the infectiously juicy matrix on a silken-textured palate. Hints of legume sprouts lend a more subtle and intriguing sort of finishing piquancy than the more obvious fruit pit bitterness so common in dry German Riesling; and the floral and mineral dimensions of this bottling persist mouthwateringly. I would expect this to perform impressively at table through at least 2020. In 2012, Wilhelm Weil completed an extensive renovation and expansion of what was already an impressive cellar – now entirely gravity-fed without needing to resort to fork-lifting casks or tanks. Still, it is arguably in its labor costs that one could most easily recognize the degree to which this estate spares no expense in the pursuit of quality. While greater diversity of terroir has been introduced into the line-up here by the creation of a separate Turmberg Einzellage for which Wilhelm Weil assiduously and successfully lobbied the authorities, as well as on account of his newfound interest in developing the Klosterberg (for more on which, consult my Issue 187 report), the number of different Weil bottlings is now being steadily whittled down. In accordance with both German wine drinking fashion and VDP politics, it is alcoholically lighter or halbtrocken bottlings are being phased out, and soon there will be but a single dry vineyard-designated wine from each site; although in 2011, for one last time, there are two dry Grafenberg bottlings. The main 2011 harvest commenced at the beginning of October, very early by the standards set during Wilhelm Weil’s now quarter-century tenure. (Hanover-born principal cellarmaster Christian Engel has been here for nearly as long.) But selective picking continued into early November. Weil claims his vineyards weren’t threatened by September rot. On the contrary, “For the longest time, we had no botrytis,” he relates, “and even this year’s Beerenauslese with 170 Oechsle represented remarkably healthy berries.” Bottling stretched from April until (for the Grosses Gewachs) early September, with many lots enjoying a longer stay on their lees than normal. The top wines display levels of acidity that I had not imagined possible in this vintage, and that permit high residual sugar to perfectly integrate. Imported by Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 91 –91

The Weil 2009 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling trocken is complexly-scented with ripe cherry, apricot, and plum, joined by smoky black tea and intimations of fruit pit bitterness that – along with an invigoratingly tart fruit skin edge – also emerge on a firm but juicy palate. Grippingly piquant, this is typical of the dry Weil 2009s for bypassing charm or the floral dimension that often distinguishes Riesling from Kiedrich sites. But its sense of salinity makes for mouth-watering finishing satisfaction. I would expect at least 5-7 years of admirable service, although Id want to monitor it lest its bitter elements become more prominent. As Wilhelm Weil points out, by the time he began harvesting in early October, 2009 – sooner than has been usual under his regime – the grapes had already been hanging for 115 days, and the fact that the weather cooled thereafter and Kiedrichs hillside sites continued to enjoy regular breezes were positive factors in adding further concentration – including of acidity – to the finished wines. In consequence, he insists that “while 2007 and 2008 were very good vintages; 2009 is for our estate on a different level … among my 22 vintages, near the forefront.” Weil is now offering a range of three single-vineyard dry Rieslings in addition to his Erstes Gewachs but says his vision is of a tier of “premier crus” and one of “grand crus,” with only a single dry wine eventually being labeled “Grafenberg.” The issue is not merely academic, I would argue, but has stylistic implications. As my notes indicate, I found the style of Weils allegedly “second” dry Grafenberg from 2009 both more attractive and more recognizably of its site than the corresponding Erstes Gewachs. (For specific differences in approach consult those detailed notes.) Weil further intends to streamline his offerings by eventually reaching some sort of stylistic compromise between his generic Kabinett halbtrocken and his unabashedly sweet Kabinett (both of which characteristically come from the Wasseros), although he admits to some uncertainty about closing what is analytically-speaking a roughly 30 gram gap in residual sugar between these two. As both president of the local VDP chapter and arguably his regions most prominent grower and quality standard bearer, how Wilhelm Weil perceives and elects to act on classificatory, stylistic, and marketing issues can have considerable influence on the future evolution of Rheingau Riesling. Even the least among this years residually sweet Weil offerings is extremely high acid on paper. In most cases, this is positively enervating, although at times strident. Weil indicates that only beyond the level of Spatlese was any significant botrytis present, even then requiring extreme diligence and patience to collect even small volumes. And as in many instances this vintage, the present collections apex of quality does not coincide with its apex in must weights. Imported by Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

robert_parker 2014

Rating: 93 –93

More aristocratic and unapproachable in its cool and dusty wet stone aroma (from 100% phylitte soils), the 2014 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken is mind-blowing in its ascetic power and terroir expression. The fruit flavors are not as tropical but fresh, green and rather pale yellow. Full-bodied, round and intense, this is a top Rheingau Riesling with a lovely ripe and interwoven acidity (although it is the highest with 8.7 grams per liter). This wine is a melting stone with power, finesse, freshness and a great expression. Great Riesling, highly recommended.

robert_parker 2008

Rating: 90 –90

The Weil 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling trocken smells of diverse, bittersweet, pungent flowers along with salt spray and shrimp shell reduction. Saline and savory, yet underlain by a sense of implacable stoniness on the palate, this finishes with citric refreshment, but its impressive length is otherwise informed by floral and mineral complexity. I find this especially intriguing and anticipate it’s being well worth following for at least the better part of the next decade. Lasting from mid-October to mid-November, the 2008 harvest was relatively early and short by the standards of Weingut Robert Weil, if not by those prevailing in most German Riesling-growing establishments. Wilhelm Weil thought the changing ratio of malic to tartaric acid was critical during October, and that the relative increase in tartaric – and its eventual precipitation in almost unprecedented amounts in cask – is what made possible impeccably-balanced 2008s. “I think,” he asserts, “that the 2008s combine the advantages of 2006 and 2007: the stuffing and energy of 2006 with the purity and elegance of 2007.” Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

robert_parker 2006

Rating: 92 –92

From a stony Weil monopole situated just north of the Grafenberg and recently re-recognized by as an official single vineyard, the 2006 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling trocken is more overly floral, nutty, spicy, and chalky than the other dry wines in this year’s collection. Notes of buddleia waft throughout, and there is a combination of succulence and pith that strikes a more transparent and refreshing pose than the preceding wines as well. Half of this was vinified in tank, which may well have promoted its freshness and elegance. There is no trace of heat from its 12.7% alcohol, and given its exemplary balance and expressiveness, I can imagine following this superb Riesling in bottle for at least 6-8 years. Wilhelm Weil relates that his team (twice the size he would have fielded only a few years ago) harvested for seven weeks without pause, 14-18 hours a day in order to capture the best possible quality from a year that set records in the Rheingau for total heat accumulation, but then of course threw inopportune rain in the vintner’s way. “The critical thing was to retain a reflection of our terroir, but to make use of the opportunity afforded by such precocious ripeness,” he observes. As in so many recent vintages, the Weil estate also benefited from some of the stoniest soils and highest, breeziest exposures in the Rheingau. Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; 800-596-9463

robert_parker 2007

Rating: 91 –91

The Weil 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling trocken smells strikingly of violets, bacon fat, and yellow plum. Silken in texture, glycerin-rich, and expansive yet full of enlivening acidity and not at all heavy, this stains the palate with invigorating tart fruit skin and zest, smoked meat, chalk, and salt. I suspect that this concentrated and well-balanced dry Riesling will remain fascinating for 8-10 years at least. Wilhelm Weil has doubled his press capacity after the 2006 experience, and in light of what he sees as an inevitable long-term truncation of the time available to harvest, given ever-earlier picking dates. But be that theory as it may, 2007 offered a full six weeks for the main harvest alone (nine weeks, if one counts “pre-harvest” thinning and Eiswein). The results – predictably, given the track record at this spare-no-expenses estate – were impressive from Q.b.A. to T.B.A., and included a generally better-balanced array of dry wines than 2006 had permitted. Since there are 22,000 and 27,000 bottles each of the two top dry Rieslings here, by the way, it’s not as though they are rare, even though many Grosses Gewachs bottlings – including from large, famous wineries – are produced in tiny amounts. Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596 9463; beginning in fall, 2009, imported by Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 91 –91

The Weil 2009 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling trocken is complexly-scented with ripe cherry, apricot, and plum, joined by smoky black tea and intimations of fruit pit bitterness that – along with an invigoratingly tart fruit skin edge – also emerge on a firm but juicy palate. Grippingly piquant, this is typical of the dry Weil 2009s for bypassing charm or the floral dimension that often distinguishes Riesling from Kiedrich sites. But its sense of salinity makes for mouth-watering finishing satisfaction. I would expect at least 5-7 years of admirable service, although Id want to monitor it lest its bitter elements become more prominent. As Wilhelm Weil points out, by the time he began harvesting in early October, 2009 – sooner than has been usual under his regime – the grapes had already been hanging for 115 days, and the fact that the weather cooled thereafter and Kiedrichs hillside sites continued to enjoy regular breezes were positive factors in adding further concentration – including of acidity – to the finished wines. In consequence, he insists that “while 2007 and 2008 were very good vintages; 2009 is for our estate on a different level … among my 22 vintages, near the forefront.” Weil is now offering a range of three single-vineyard dry Rieslings in addition to his Erstes Gewachs but says his vision is of a tier of “premier crus” and one of “grand crus,” with only a single dry wine eventually being labeled “Grafenberg.” The issue is not merely academic, I would argue, but has stylistic implications. As my notes indicate, I found the style of Weils allegedly “second” dry Grafenberg from 2009 both more attractive and more recognizably of its site than the corresponding Erstes Gewachs. (For specific differences in approach consult those detailed notes.) Weil further intends to streamline his offerings by eventually reaching some sort of stylistic compromise between his generic Kabinett halbtrocken and his unabashedly sweet Kabinett (both of which characteristically come from the Wasseros), although he admits to some uncertainty about closing what is analytically-speaking a roughly 30 gram gap in residual sugar between these two. As both president of the local VDP chapter and arguably his regions most prominent grower and quality standard bearer, how Wilhelm Weil perceives and elects to act on classificatory, stylistic, and marketing issues can have considerable influence on the future evolution of Rheingau Riesling. Even the least among this years residually sweet Weil offerings is extremely high acid on paper. In most cases, this is positively enervating, although at times strident. Weil indicates that only beyond the level of Spatlese was any significant botrytis present, even then requiring extreme diligence and patience to collect even small volumes. And as in many instances this vintage, the present collections apex of quality does not coincide with its apex in must weights. Imported by Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255