Critic ratings
vinous
1999
Rating:
95
–95
The 1999 Clos des Goisses flows from the glass with the essence of minerals, chalk, smoke ash, white peaches, pears, flowers and sweet oak. This is a muscular, powerful wine that needs serious bottle age to come around, yet it possesses striking clarity and detail in its aromatics and flavors. Clos des Goisses is one of the most rewarding wines to drink when mature, and I have no doubt this will be another splendid version. This refined, sumptuous wine is not to be missed. Clos des Goisses is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, and 30% of the wine was fermented in oak. This bottle was disgorged in March 2007.
vinous
1999
Rating:
95
–95
(disgorged March 2007) Green-gold. Explosive bouquet of musky yellow fruits, cherry pit, toasted grain and minerals; there's something Jura-like about this. Deep, palate-staining mirabelle, peach pit and poached pear flavors are complicated by anise and bitter cherry skin, showing excellent grip. Finishes long and spicy, with excellent breadth. Remarkably complex and singular Champagne, with as much character as any wine I've tried in a long time, from anywhere.
vinous
2008
Rating:
98
–98
The 2008 Clos des Goisses is just as impressive today as it has always been. Rich, dense and explosive, the 2008 exists in three dimensions, with remarkable textural depth and vertical intensity to burn. Clos des Goisses is notoriously slow to develop. Readers who can be patient will be treated to a spectacular Champagne. The blend is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, which makes the 2008 a rare Clos des Goisses that favors Chardonnay. About 75% of the lots were fermented in oak. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter.
vinous
2008
Rating:
98
–98
One of the highlights of this important Champagne vintage, Philipponnat's 2008 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses is fabulous. Rich, ample and yet also full of the tension that makes the Champagnes of this year so appealing, the 2008 Goisses is crystalline and incredibly pure. Clos des Goisses has a track record of aging brilliantly for decades. Even knowing that, I am surprised by how harmonious the 2008 is at this early stage in its life. Yes, there is plenty of youthful austerity, but at the same time, the 2008 is remarkably poised and has more than enough mid-palate creaminess to play off the bright, salivating acids. Don't miss it! Disgorged: April 2017. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.
vinous
2008
Rating:
95
–98
A wine of explosive power and energy, the 2008 Clos des Goisses is magnificent. A host of citrus, white flower, lemon confit and orchard fruit overtones race across the palate in a Goisses of striking precision, delineation and tension. The bright flavor profile is very Chardonnay-dominant at this early stage, while the weight and textural depth of the Pinot is especially evident on the mid-palate and finish. I tasted the 2008 from a bottle in disgorgement trials, so my rating is therefore in parentheses. If the commercial wine is anything like this bottle, readers will be in for a treat, as the 2008 Goisses is shaping up to be a magical Champagne.
vinous
2007
Rating:
95
–95
The 2007 Clos des Goisses is gorgeous. Almost shockingly finessed and light on its feet for Goisses, the 2007 is a wine of superb elegance. The power and richness of Goisses is there, but in the background. It will be many years before the 2007 blossoms into a complete, fully expressive Champagne. Even so, it is striking today. With time, hints of lemon confit, chamomile and marzipan develop in the glass, but readers will have to cellar the 2007 for at least five years, maybe more, to get the full Goisses experience. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged June, 2016.
vinous
2007
Rating:
94
–94
Philipponnat's 2007 Brut Clos de Goisses is soft, delicate and polished. One of the most understated, young Goisses I can remember tasting, the 2007 is a rare vintage that will drink well with pretty much no cellaring, which, as Goisses fans know, is highly unusual. Expressive in its aromatics and equally welcoming on the palate, the 2007 speaks to grace above all else. In 2007, bright Chardonnay-inflected notes are most apparent today, while the Pinot Noir is felt mostly in the wine's weight and overall texture. Even so, 2007 is a vintage that favors finesse over power. Dosage is 4.5 grams/liter. Disgorged: June 2016.
vinous
2007
Rating:
94
–94
A wine of remarkable finesse rather than power, the 2007 Philipponnat Brut Clos de Goisses boasts laser-like acidity and accuracy of flavor that are memorable. One of my favorite Champagnes, Clos de Goisses is usually a powerful bubbly in its youth, but this 2007 is rather politely-styled, almost delicate in fact, in its white fruit and floral aromas and flavors. Best of all, it is still exceptionally young and will last for decades in a proper cellar.
robert_parker
2004
Rating:
96
–96
From their iconic steep, south-facing, riverside vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay - acquired in 1935 - Philipponnat's strikingly beautiful 2004 Brut Clos des Goisses betrays no suggestion of alcoholic weight or opacity such as one might associate with an especially warm, fast-ripening vineyard. On the contrary, this is a bottling that combines silken feel with delicacy, refreshment, and utmost transparency to nuance. Chamomile, mint and lily-of-the-valley don't just turn heads from the rim of the glass; they waft through this wine's entire palate performance, against a greenhouse-like background of diverse if elusive flowering and leafing things. Salivary gland-tugging salinity and hints of chalk suffuse a fruit matrix of white peach, lime, red raspberry and red currant whose juicy, subtly crunchy expressions put me a bit in mind of certain supreme Nahe Rieslings. This site's reflection in the Marne River is itself iconic, but its reflection in your glass will prove kaleidoscopically spellbinding. That effect persisted during the four days I had the pleasure of following this 2004, and I suspect that subsequent bottles will prove worth following for at least a decade.
The house of Philipponnat - which owns 44 prime acres in and around Mareuil-sur-Ay, its base of operations ever since having completed a new press house and cellar there in 2004 - is headed by Charles Philipponat, although it's owned by the group that controls Champagne Bruno Paillard Philipponnat. This house's Clos des Goisses estate vineyard is justly renowned, but on the occasion of my recent tasting, their extra brut "1522" - named for the year in which the first Philipponnat began farming vines, in Ay - proved almost as compelling.
Importer: The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA; tel. (800) 999-4342
robert_parker
2002
Rating:
95
–95
One of the first showings of the 2002, this has a mercurial bouquet with citrus peel, jasmine, hazelnut, linden and dried mango, the chalkiness only emerging after five minutes in the glass. The palate has a very Burgundian personality, superb balance and poise with dried honey, honeysuckle and a touch of chalk. Great penetration on the finish, this was surely be a long-term Clos des Goisses that will amaze the next generation of champagne-lovers. Tasted March 2011.
robert_parker
2002
Rating:
96
–96
The flagship 2002 Brut Clos des Goisses is simply stunning in this vintage. Seamless, ripe and beguiling, the 2002 is pure harmony in the glass. Dried pears, apricots, flowers, red berries and spices are some of the many notes that inform this towering, aristocratic wine. At once vertical yet endowed with serious length, the 2002 stands out for its breathtaking balance and overall sense of harmony. Layers of fruit built to the huge, creamy finish. This is a great showing from Philipponnat. The 2002 was disgorged in June 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2032.
I tasted a wide range of fabulous wines with Charles Philipponnat this year. Over the years, the knock on Philipponnat was that few of the entry and mid-level wines were consistent in quality with the flagship Clos des Goisses, one of the true icons of Champagne. I find that much less of an issue these days. One criticism I do have with Philipponnat is with the roses, which generally are made by adding still red wine to the blanc versions of those same Champagnes. While this method, called ‘assemblage,’ is quite common in Champagne, it is much less typical of estates that aspire to make world-class Champagnes, as Philipponnat does. At most of the top houses, the roses are made as stand alone wines, in other words, conceived and executed from the bottom up as their own entities rather than based off another wine.
Importers: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484; Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
robert_parker
2001
Rating:
90
–90
Not the easiest of vintage by a long chalk (geddit?), the 2001 is a very commendable effort from Charles Philipponnat. It has a well-defined, simple bouquet with touches of beeswax and honeysuckle but in need of a little lift. The palate has a delicate, buttery entry with good acidity, touches of citrus peel coming through but missing a little tension towards the finish. Good length and quite refined, but missing that killer edge on the finish. Tasted March 2011.
robert_parker
2001
Rating:
93
–93
The 2001 Brut Clos des Goisses has begun to take on attractive early tertiary nuances. A big, broad-shouldered wine, the 2001 has gorgeous depth but not quite the finesse of the very best years. Even with all of the intense fruit and rich, palate-staining finish, some slightly rough edges remain. Dried apricots, spices, licorice, sweet herbs and tobacco add elements of exoticism on the finish. A spell of cold weather and rain during the harvest appears to have marked the 2001. This is going to be a fascinating wine to follow, although I don’t think it will reach the heights of the 2002. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2041.
I tasted a wide range of fabulous wines with Charles Philipponnat this year. Over the years, the knock on Philipponnat was that few of the entry and mid-level wines were consistent in quality with the flagship Clos des Goisses, one of the true icons of Champagne. I find that much less of an issue these days. One criticism I do have with Philipponnat is with the roses, which generally are made by adding still red wine to the blanc versions of those same Champagnes. While this method, called ‘assemblage,’ is quite common in Champagne, it is much less typical of estates that aspire to make world-class Champagnes, as Philipponnat does. At most of the top houses, the roses are made as stand alone wines, in other words, conceived and executed from the bottom up as their own entities rather than based off another wine.
Importers: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484; Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
91
–91
A blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, disgorged in October 2007 with 4.5gms/L, this Clos des Goisses is very reserved on the nose, but develops and attractive granite minerality, a touch of smoke and flint. Good definition. The palate has a sharp entry, Braeburn apples, kiwi fruit and lime, though quite sharp and pointed on the finish (although it mellows out after an hour of opening.) Perhaps not a long-term Clos des Goisses, but beautifully crafted all the same. Drink now-2018. Tasted August 2008.
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
95
–95
The 1999 Clos des Goisses flows from the glass with the essence of minerals, chalk, smoke, ash, white peaches, pears, flowers and sweet oak. This is a muscular, powerful wine that needs serious bottle age to come around, yet it possesses striking clarity and detail in its aromatics and flavors. Clos des Goisses is one of the most rewarding wines to drink when mature, and I have no doubt this will be another splendid version. This refined, sumptuous wine is not to be missed. Clos des Goisses is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, and 30% of the wine was fermented in oak. This bottle was disgorged in March 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024.
Philipponnat makes a wide range of wines but the house’s fame rests squarely on the monumental Clos des Goisses, a Pinot-dominated Champagne that emerges from a 5.5 hectare vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Oddly enough Clos des Goisses remains a wine for insiders despite a track record few wines can match, as it is one of the most ageworthy Champagnes on the market. Quality throughout the rest of the range is less brilliant.
Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Inc., Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
92
–92
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s Clos des Goisses dinner. Disgorged February 2008, 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay with 30% matured in oak cask, the ’99 Clos des Goisses has opened up on the nose since I last tasted it, with limestone, granite, smoke, walnut and a touch of brioche. Very good definition. The palate is taut with citric acidity: very focused with notes of green apple, orange peel, apricot and quince jus, then motes of honey. Racy towards the finish and as before, mellowing nicely with aeration in the glass. Drink now-2018. Tasted October 2009.
robert_parker
1998
Rating:
94
–94
The estate’s 1998 Clos des Goisses could not possibly be more different than the 1999. This is a wonderfully dense, richly-textured Clos des Goisses with a deep, baritone-like expression of fruit. Ripe apricots, honey and flowers flow from the glass, followed by suggestions of smoke, mint and minerals that add further complexity as the wine opens up in the glass. This is a powerful, masculine Clos des Goisses that will repay cellaring although it is awfully hard to resist even at this early stage. The 1998 Clos des Goisses is 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, partially fermented in oak. This bottle was disgorged in March 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2023.
Philipponnat makes a wide range of wines but the house’s fame rests squarely on the monumental Clos des Goisses, a Pinot-dominated Champagne that emerges from a 5.5 hectare vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Oddly enough Clos des Goisses remains a wine for insiders despite a track record few wines can match, as it is one of the most ageworthy Champagnes on the market. Quality throughout the rest of the range is less brilliant.
Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Inc., Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
robert_parker
1998
Rating:
89
–89
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s Clos des Goisses dinner. Disgorged February 2008, this has a soft, waxy, lanolin tinged nose with hints of peaches and cream. It just lacks the mineralite of the ’96 or the ’99. Meanwhile the palate is comparatively straightforward and easy-going compared to those aforementioned vintages, with slightly lower acidity, a more fruit-driven Clos des Goisses that lacks the intellectual aspect of this great champagne. Pleasing, but not cerebral. Drink now-2015. Tasted October 2009.
robert_parker
1996
Rating:
92
–92
This has a wonderful, exuberant, lees-infused nose with green apple, chalk dust and lime with fine definition. The palate is powerful and yet steely with citrus fruits, a touch of dried apricot and orange-blossom. Very precise, quite “stony” and correct with a zesty, lively finish just to make sure you do not forgot this Clos des Goisses. Distinctive – as usual! Excellent. Drink now-2025. Tasted June 2008.
robert_parker
1996
Rating:
96
–96
Philipponnat’s 1996 Clos des Goisses is one of the more approachable wines in this vintage. Made in a slightly oxidative style, it reveals lovely complexity in a richly-textured, expansive personality, with a pretty vein of minerality that frames the long finish.
robert_parker
1996
Rating:
96
–96
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s Clos des Goisses dinner. Disgorged September 2005, this ’96 is adorned with a sublime; minerally nose with flint and chalk dust, a bouquet that really transports you momentarily to the vineyard where it was born. With time: hints of hazelnut and dandelion. The palate has a soft, understated entry, quite creamy in texture with green apple, kiwi, a touch of pear and lime, yet it is the mineral heart of the ’96 that sticks on the memory. Refined and effortless on the finish. Even better than previous bottles that I have encountered. Brilliant. Drink now-2020+ Tasted October 2009.
robert_parker
1996
Rating:
93
–93
Warm roasted nuts, apricots and dried flowers are some of the notes that emerge from this large-scaled Clos des Goisses. The early signs of tertiary development are in the glass, making this another of the more accessible 1996s for current drinking. Unless the wine reaches a plateau where it remains for many years, recent tastings suggest the 1996 will not be an extraordinarily long-lived Clos des Goisses.
robert_parker
1996
Rating:
94
–94
Offering up complex aromas of candied peel, warm biscuits, golden orchard fruit and toast, this perfectly preserved original disgorgement of the 1996 Clos des Goisses is medium to full-bodied, incisive but fleshy, its bright spine of vintage-typical acidity cloaked in lively fruit, and complemented by a pearly mousse. This is one 1996 Champagne that has finally arrived at full maturity.
robert_parker
1985
Rating:
92
–92
No Specific Tasting Note
robert_parker
1985
Rating:
90
–90
No Specific Tasting Note
vinous
1996
Rating:
96
–96
The 1996 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. has reached a glorious peak of expression. Apricot, burnt sugar, spice, pastry, hazelnut and a whole range of reductive notes that have developed in bottle fill out the layers. In 1996, Clos des Goisses was still aged on cork (for both the original and L.V. releases. Over time, cork seems to given the 1996 an especially relaxed, resonant feel. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2021. (Originally published in May 2021)
vinous
1996
Rating:
96
–96
The 1996 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. has reached a glorious peak of expression. Apricot, burnt sugar, spice, pastry, hazelnut and a whole range of reductive notes that have developed in bottle fill out the layers. In 1996, Clos des Goisses was still aged on cork (for both the original and L.V. releases. Over time, cork seems to given the 1996 an especially relaxed, resonant feel. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2021.
vinous
1997
Rating:
92
–92
The 1997 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a very pretty, understated wine. Lemon confit, hazelnut, dried flowers, mint, herbs, spice and pastry notes infuse the 2017 with lovely character. This is an especially mid-weight, restrained vintage for Clos des Goisses that reflects both the personality of a cold year and the era before Charles Philipponat began refocusing the maison on quality beginning in the early 2000s. As such, it is really a wine that belongs to the past, both literally and figuratively. The 1997 was done mostly in 15hL enamel-lined tanks. Dosage is 4.3 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2022.
vinous
1997
Rating:
92
–92
The 1997 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a very pretty, understated wine. Lemon confit, hazelnut, dried flowers, mint, herbs, spice and pastry notes infuse the 2017 with lovely character. This is an especially mid-weight, restrained vintage for Clos des Goisses that reflects both the personality of a cold year and the era before Charles Philipponat began refocusing the maison on quality beginning in the early 2000s. As such, it is really a wine that belongs to the past, both literally and figuratively. The 1997 was done mostly in 15hL enamel-lined tanks. Dosage is 4.3 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2022.
vinous
1992
Rating:
88
–88
The 1992 Clos des Goisses Late-Disgorged harkens back to a less happier time in Philipponnat’s history when things were not as precise as they are today. Frankly, it is hard to get past metallic and gamy notes, the wine’s notable depth notwithstanding. The small harvest was mostly fermented in foudre, without temperature control. All things considered, the 1992 has to be seen as a memory of the era during which it was made. Even this recent disgorgement is frayed around the edges. Two recent bottles were very similar. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter. Disgorged: July, 2018.
vinous
1992
Rating:
97
–97
A last minute addition to this tasting, courtesy of a dear friend, the 1992 Clos des Goisses is a towering masterpiece. It's as simple as that. Huge and exotic on the palate, the 1992 is the first wine in this tasting that shows what mature Goisses is all about. The flavors are intense and Pinot dominated, while the sense of phenolic weight is impossible to miss. This is the essence of Clos des Goisses.
vinous
1992
Rating:
90
–90
Light gold color, with a fine mousse. Pungent aromas of apple, poached pear, cherry pit, blond tobacco and loamy earth, lifted by a topnote of bitter lemon. Offers very good depth on the palate, showing concentrated flavors of apple pie, singed orange and buttery toffee. This boasts good energy on the back, which enlivens the wine's deep, maturing flavors. A very successful and vinous Champagne from this difficult vintage.
vinous
2002
Rating:
96
–96
The 2002 Clos des Goisses dazzles from start to finish. A huge, tropical Goisses, the 2002 pulses with exotic, tropical fruit wedded to a real sense of textural vinosity. Honey, almonds and yellow stone fruits are some of the many notes that blossom in the glass. The 2002 is just entering the very early part of its plateau of maturity, but it will continue to develop further nuance over the next 20-30 years. The level of complexity and overall sumptuousness make the 2002 nearly impossible to resist today. Disgorged November 2011.
vinous
2002
Rating:
96
–96
The flagship 2002 Brut Clos des Goisses is simply stunning in this vintage. Seamless, ripe and beguiling, the 2002 is pure harmony in the glass. Dried pears, apricots, flowers, red berries and spices are some of the many notes that inform this towering, aristocratic wine. At once vertical yet endowed with serious length, the 2002 stands out for its breathtaking balance and overall sense of harmony. Layers of fruit built to the huge, creamy finish. This is a great showing from Philipponnat. The 2002 was disgorged in June 2011.
vinous
2004
Rating:
97
–97
The 2004 Clos des Goisses is dense and powerful in the glass, with all of the pure, unbridled energy that has always been such a signature here. Hints of lemon peel, mint, spice and crushed rocks emerge with time in the glass, but, despite its considerable beauty and unquestioned pedigree, the 2004 is frankly years away from delivering the full Clos des Goisses experience. Disgorged February 2013.
vinous
2004
Rating:
96
–96
Broad, ample and pure, the 2004 Clos des Goisses seems to be going through a closed period. The wine's texture an tension are evident, but all of the wine's energy is focused inward. The 2004 is without question a brilliant, striking Champagne, but it needs time in bottle. Disgorged December 2013.
vinous
2004
Rating:
97
–97
Champagne lovers will not want to miss the 2004 Clos des Goisses. A towering, utterly majestic wine, the 2004 captivates all of the senses with its stunning grace and pure pedigree. Clos des Goisses is often a big, broad Champagne, but not in 2004. Unusually bright, precise and chiseled, the 2004 is a Goisses that impresses for its finesse and tension. The 2004 is all about detail and nuance. The 2004 is 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, with 100% malolactic fermentation. Dosage was 4.3 grams per liter. I can't imagine opening a bottle before its 15th birthday, and even that may prove to be optimistic. The 2004 Clos des Goisses is a must-have Champagne. It's as simple as that.
vinous
2004
Rating:
95
–95
(65% pinot nor and 35% chardonnay; disgorged May, 2013): Vivid yellow. Heady, mineral-driven scents of fresh citrus and orchard fruits, white flowers, anise and iodine, with toasty lees and herbal notes coming up with air. Densely packed Meyer lemon and bitter pear skin flavors become sweeter with air and show excellent focus. The smoke and floral qualities come back on the mineral-dominated finish, which lingers with outstanding tenacity. I'll bet that this superbly balanced Champagne will reward many years of cellaring.
vinous
2006
Rating:
96
–96
The 2006 Clos des Goisses is stellar, but it is also going to need quite a bit of time to come into its own. Powerful and ample in the best of the Goisses style, the 2006 hits the palate with serious intensity. Orchard fruits, lemon oil, white flowers and almonds are some of the many notes that open up in the glass, but, as is often the case with young Goisses, it is the wine's gravitas that is front and center. Even with all of its overtness, though, the 2006 retains striking, crystalline purity. I imagine the 2006 will reward Champagne lovers with many decades of truly exceptional drinking. The only thing the 2006 needs is time. The question is: How much?
vinous
2009
Rating:
96
–96
The 2009 Clos des Goisses has been very tight in two recent tastings, which is probably a very good thing for its long-term prospects, but less so for readers seeking the immediacy that is common in so many 2009 Champagnes. White flowers, orchard fruit, mint white pepper and citrus peel add to the wine’s bright profile. Readers should plan on being extremely patient, as the 2009 Goisses does not show much, if any, early appeal, even if the density and textural persistence of the great years are both there. The 2009 is 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2018.
vinous
2009
Rating:
94
–96
The 2009 Clos des Goisses, tasted from a trial disgorgement, is more than a worthy follow up to the stunning 2008. Bright, focused and powerful, with terrific freshness for the year, the 2009 is pure sensuality. To be sure, there is plenty of vintage 2009 radiance to the citrus, orchard fruit and pastry flavors, but the blocked-malo style helps the wine retain plenty of verve. The 2009 is 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay, with no malolactic fermentation. Charles Philipponnat chose to scale down the number of lots fermented in oak to 37% in order to temper some of the natural richness of the year. He seems to have succeeded, as the 2009 retains terrific vibrancy.
vinous
2010
Rating:
95
–95
The 2010 Clos des Goisses shows a distinctly tropical, exotic profile that is unusual in Clos des Goisses. Candied orange peel, passionfruit, burnt sugar, mint and yellow flowers all meld together in the glass. Lush fruit, low-ish acid and soft contours add to the wine’s soft, open-knit feel. Time in the glass brings out more lifted, perfumed notes that add to the wine’s overall appeal. Two-thousand-ten presented significant challenges in the vineyard, including high disease pressure that required quite a bit of sorting. The blend is 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay (a bit more Chardonnay than normal), while production is just 5,000 bottles. Clos des Goisses has an extraordinary track record, so ordinarily I would not suggest opening wines young, but the 2010 is a rare exception. That said, it needs 1-2 hours of air to show at its best at this early stage of its life.
vinous
2011
Rating:
93
–93
The 2011 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is bright and perfumed, with lovely Chardonnay energy driving the citrus, floral and savory notes. In 2011, Clos des Goisses is a touch lithe, but its balance is simply impeccable. Given the challenges of the year, I would not push my luck on aging. If there is one wine I would be willing to bet on, at least for the medium term, it is Clos des Goisses. Dosage is 4.5 liters per gram.
vinous
2012
Rating:
97
–97
The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a Champagne of extraordinary elegance and finesse. Silky and aromatic, the 2012 impresses with its mid-weight, refined personality. Hints of kirsch, red plum, flowers and chamomile open gently in the glass. Clos des Goisses is often a rich, vinous Champagne, but the 2012 comes across as restrained and understated in all the right ways. Its aging potential will be measured in decades not years. Sadly, severe spring frost took with it a startling 50% of the crop. According to Charles Philipponnat Pinot fared better than Chardonnay. Ultimately, though, the Goisses blend is a typical two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. (Originally published in May 2021)
vinous
2012
Rating:
97
–97
The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a Champagne of extraordinary elegance and finesse. Silky and aromatic, the 2012 impresses with its mid-weight, refined personality. Hints of kirsch, red plum, flowers and chamomile open gently in the glass. Clos des Goisses is often a rich, vinous Champagne, but the 2012 comes across as restrained and understated in all the right ways. Its aging potential will be measured in decades not years. Sadly, severe spring frost took with it a startling 50% of the crop. According to Charles Philipponnat Pinot fared better than Chardonnay. Ultimately, though, the Goisses blend is a typical two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.
vinous
2013
Rating:
98
–98
The 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is fabulous. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2013 is in no mood to show all its cards. The late harvest produced a bristling, intensely saline Clos des Goisses that will require years to be at its best. Even so, its depth, textural resonance and finish are so evocative as to what the future holds. The 2013 is a positively stunning Champagne and one of the best Goisses in recent memory. I can't wait to see how it develops. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.
