Critic ratings
robert_parker
2020
Rating:
90
–90
Piuze's 2020 Chablis Terroir de Chablis reveals a pretty bouquet of crisp yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and saline wine that marries a charming core of fruit with an intensely mineral finish.
robert_parker
2019
Rating:
91
–91
The terrific 2019 Chablis Terroir de Chablis opens in the glass with scents of crisp stone fruit, green apple, warm bread and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's taut and chiseled, concluding with a long, mineral finish. It's produced from two north-facing parcels near Montmains.
robert_parker
2014
Rating:
88
–88
The 2014 Chablis Terroir de Chablis comes from the north-facing hill of Foret and Vaillons. Has a taut, austere bouquet that needs some encouragement from the glass. The palate is rounded on the entry with good weight on the mid-palate, fine acidity, a little saline toward the finish with a persistent, lemongrass-tinged finish. Enjoy this over the next four or five years.
robert_parker
2011
Rating:
90
–90
The 2011 Chablis Terroir de Chablis, from the northern face of Forets, shows serious depth and minerality in support of the fruit. Lemon, citrus, white flowers and minerals are layered into the vibrant, saline finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012.
Patrick Piuze is one of the most thoughtful producers in Chablis, so it is hardly a surprise that these wines continue to show significant improvement. One of the developments over the last year or so has been an experimentation with an old-fashioned mechanical press, which Piuze thinks may give him wines with a greater capacity to age, even if they are a bit tougher upon release. Given the considerable attention, and frankly mystery, that still surrounds the premature oxidation of white Burgundies, it is going to be very interesting to see what this approach yields. Piuze recently took over a section of the old Vocoret cellars in the center of town, which gives him some additional space, which was much needed. Unlike most of his peers, Piuze works exclusively with purchased fruit, most of it from vineyards he farms directly or supervises. Piuze makes a number of fabulous wines, but of particular interest are the "Terroir" series wines, which seek to highlight the unique qualities of each of the main villages within the Chablis appellation. As far as I know, no one else is making wines like this. Piuze bottled some of his 2011s early. Those wines were left on their lees for their entire elevage. I tasted the rest of the 2011s from barrel, where they had never been racked. As for the 2010s, Piuze is one of the few producers who is quite frank in saying he is not a huge fan of the vintage. Accordingly, Piuze chose not to bottle magnums for any of his wines.
Various American importers, including: David Bowler Wine, New York, NY; (212) 807-1680, Aliane Wines, La Jolla, CA; tel. (858) 361-4529
robert_parker
2009
Rating:
88
–88
The 2009 Chablis Terroir de Chablis comes across as soft and delicate, with a hushed voice in its fruit that is quite appealing. The parcel is on the north-facing side of the Forets hill. This was aged 70% in steel and 30% in barrel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.
Patrick Piuze’s resume includes stints with Olivier Leflaive, Jean-Marie Guffens and Domaine Brocard. A desire for more of a hands-on approach in all facets of winemaking led Piuze to start his own micro-negociant operation a few years ago. All of the wines are fermented with ambient yeasts and are aged on their lees in steel and neutral oak with no batonnage. Of the premier crus, the Vaillons, Forets and Butteaux are aged entirely in oak, as are all of the grand crus. The wines go through full malolactic fermentation. Stylistically, the wines lean towards the Cote d’Or in terms of their personalities. In 2009, Piuze began picking on September 14, earlier than normal, and the wines also went into bottle early (before the 2010 harvest), both with the aim of trying to maintain as much freshness as possible. About 50% of the wines are aged in neutral oak. Some of the gems in this lineup are in the entry-level offerings, where there may be less competition for higher quality fruit than in some of the more prestigious sites within Chablis. I was only able to taste one 2010, as the rest of the wines had not yet been bottled at the time of my visit. I also sampled a number of 2008s, including the Vaucoupin, Vaillons, Blanchots and Les Clos, all of which were very pretty.
Various American importers, including: David Bowler Wine, New York, NY; (212) 807-1680 and Aliane Wines, La Jolla, CA; tel. (858) 361-4529
robert_parker
2008
Rating:
90
–90
The Piuze 2008 Chablis Terroir de Chablis makes a good case not only for its young vigneron’s talents, but also for the special qualities that can accrue to those wines of its appellation that grow in the eponymous village itself. Scents of lemon, tangerine, and grapefruit presage an exuberantly and colorfully citric palate tinged with salt, crushed stone, and iodine as well as suffused with that subtly sweet scallop-like savor one seldom encounters in wine from any other place. Persistently bright yet less lean than its villages-level siblings in this collection, this finishes with irresistible length and saliva inducement. Expect it to perform brilliantly for at least 3-4 years.
Quebecois Patrick Piuze has followed a repeatedly-traveled path, having struck out on his own after working as cellarmaster for Brocard (and before that he worked for Olivier Leflaive, followed by Verget). Tasting his 2008s offers striking reminders of just how much unrealized potential there is in Chablis, when one considers the number of very recent start-ups (granted, the bulk market for 2008s was a buyer’s); that the twelve wines I tasted here constitute only a bit over half of Piuze’s portfolio; and above all in view of the high quality he has achieved in his inaugural vintage. Piuze follows as well a by now familiar micro-negociant formula that is “micro” in matters of management even if not in terms of total production: he exercises whatever he feels are the necessary controls to insure that the fruit he purchases can fulfill his ideals of style and terroir character, which involve fermentation exclusively in steel or cement vessels and maturation in tank and previously-used, often large-format barrels. Class distinctions here are quite subtle, with a seamless transition from some startlingly fine village-level wines through the crus. (For the record, the 2008 bottlings I did not taste are: Petit Chablis and the crus Butteaux, Foret; Montmains, Montee de Tonnerre, Vaillons, Bougros, Grenouilles, Valmur, and Vaudesir!)
Various importers, including: Aliane Wines, La Jolla, CA; tel. (858) 361-4529 and David Bowler Wine, New York, NY; (212) 807-1680
robert_parker
2022
Rating:
89
–89
The 2022 Chablis Terroir de Chablis unwinds in the glass, shedding some youthful reduction to reveal notes of honeyed pear and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that's broader and softer than usual this year.
robert_parker
2015
Rating:
89
–89
The 2015 Chablis Terroir de Chablis, which comes from north-facing slopes, gently unfolds in the glass with pleasant candle wax and apricot blossom aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, lightly spiced, almost confit fruit. I love the balance to this Chablis, so sedate and smooth, nicely focused with commendable weight on the finish. This is a well-crafted Chablis from Patrick Piuze.
robert_parker
2016
Rating:
88
–88
The 2016 Chablis Terroir de Chablis usually comes from the north-facing hill in the lieu-dit of Forêts, which in this vintage produced just eight hectoliters per hectare. Therefore, it was supplemented with another parcel from the lieu-dit of Boucheron. It has a light flinty bouquet that is crisp, focused and quite minimalist in style. The palate is clean and fresh with sour lemon and orange zest, though it pulls up just a tad short on the finish. That said, I appreciate the energy conveyed by this Chablis.
robert_parker
2017
Rating:
91
–91
The 2017 Chablis Terroir de Chablis is superb, unfurling in the glass with notes of oystershell, lemon oil and dried white flowers, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, with bright but ripe acids and a long, mouthwatering finish. It's derived from two parcels, both north-facing, near Montmains.
robert_parker
2018
Rating:
91
–91
Derived from two north-facing parcels near Montmains—to be more specific, a mere 50 meters from lieu-dit Forêst—the 2018 Chablis Terroir de Chablis is one of the high points of the range, wafting from the glass with notes of lemon oil, oyster shells, smoke and green apples. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with excellent concentration and a stony, mineral finish. Readers may find it helpful to think of this as a miniature Séchet this year.
robert_parker
2011
Rating:
90
–90
The 2011 Chablis Terroir de Chablis, from the northern face of Forets, shows serious depth and minerality in support of the fruit. Lemon, citrus, white flowers and minerals are layered into the vibrant, saline finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012.
Patrick Piuze is one of the most thoughtful producers in Chablis, so it is hardly a surprise that these wines continue to show significant improvement. One of the developments over the last year or so has been an experimentation with an old-fashioned mechanical press, which Piuze thinks may give him wines with a greater capacity to age, even if they are a bit tougher upon release. Given the considerable attention, and frankly mystery, that still surrounds the premature oxidation of white Burgundies, it is going to be very interesting to see what this approach yields. Piuze recently took over a section of the old Vocoret cellars in the center of town, which gives him some additional space, which was much needed. Unlike most of his peers, Piuze works exclusively with purchased fruit, most of it from vineyards he farms directly or supervises. Piuze makes a number of fabulous wines, but of particular interest are the "Terroir" series wines, which seek to highlight the unique qualities of each of the main villages within the Chablis appellation. As far as I know, no one else is making wines like this. Piuze bottled some of his 2011s early. Those wines were left on their lees for their entire elevage. I tasted the rest of the 2011s from barrel, where they had never been racked. As for the 2010s, Piuze is one of the few producers who is quite frank in saying he is not a huge fan of the vintage. Accordingly, Piuze chose not to bottle magnums for any of his wines.
Various American importers, including: David Bowler Wine, New York, NY; (212) 807-1680, Aliane Wines, La Jolla, CA; tel. (858) 361-4529
robert_parker
2012
Rating:
89
–89
Piuze’s 2012 Chablis Terroir de Chablis – sourced from near La Forest, plus a sector between Montmains and Vaillons – reveals the transparency of lemon and grapefruit to nuances of stony, saline, alkaline and crustacean natures such as I had hoped to encounter in more of his generic bottlings. This spare but bright, energetic and rapier-finishing bottling ought to merit attention through at least 2015 and will probably become more welcoming along the way.
Quebecer Patrick Piuze – a former cellarmaster for Brocard about whose inaugural 2008 vintage under his own name I enthused in issue 191 – has since then significantly expanded his range; further honed his already formidable skills; and acquired some superb new sources of fruit, making his one of the most exciting among France’s modern breed of micro-negociants not to mention among newcomers to Chablis during the past decade. Incidentally, like many of the aforementioned breed, Piuze sells his wines overwhelmingly (at last count, he says, 93%) abroad. He exercises considerable control over the viticultural regimen practiced by his dozen suppliers (three dominant) in the parcels for whose fruit he contracts, and continues to be a tireless experimenter and self-critic in matters of vinification. With 2011, he began utilizing a mechanical rather than bladder press for half of his wines, and in 2012 exclusively, citing his belief that this enhances dry extract and stability, though it requires much more time and someone standing by the press. Piuze adds that this approach also gains him some of the advantages in quality of juice associated with traditional Champagne presses, but that a vertical press such as used in that region is impractical for his large number of small lots and small team (with only two other full-time participants, his partner Sylvie Quittot and his father-in-law). Non-cru wines here are raised almost entirely in tank and crus in previously used barrel. “We picked beginning September 20 in 2012, and as fast as we could” Piuze notes, “because there was quite a lot of rain and it’s easier to pick with water on the grapes that I can dry-off than with water in the grapes.” Alcohols, unadjusted, registered from 11.8-12.3% (very close to the estate’s readings in 2011). “The point is not to pick early but ripe,” Piuze generalizes, “and to pick ripe but not overripe where you lose brightness and saliva inducement for the sake of fat.” Most of Piuze’s 2012s finished malo-lactic conversion by Christmas but alcoholic fermentation only in early spring. “I don’t do this on purpose, it just usually happens” he notes, adding “I don’t know why myself. But the levels of volatility come out all right, and anyway, I don’t like wines that have too little volatile acidity.” Despite what was already the certainty of a late 2013 harvest, Piuze planned to bottle his 2012 crus (excepting Les Clos) already in July, a testimony to economic considerations – “I’m already lucky enough (just) to be able to do what I do, that it’s not even a burden to bottle one stage earlier than I otherwise would” he notes with a grin – but also a policy that has stood his wines well in past vintages. So many sites I hadn’t anticipated were represented in the 2012 line-up that the time I had allotted for our tasting session did not permit opportunity to taste even one of Piuze’s 2011s (nor did my subsequent schedule), so I’ll plan to report next year on how at least some of his efforts from that vintage are faring.
Imported by Aliane Wines, La Jolla, CA; tel. (858) 361-4529, David Bowler Wine, New York, NY; (212) 807-1680, and Martine’s Wines Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
robert_parker
2013
Rating:
90
–90
The 2013 Chablis Terroir de Chablis comes from the north-facing hill in Les Forets and another north-facing parcel opposite Vaillons. It has a more introspective but nicely defined bouquet that takes more time to unwind. But the palate is fresh with good tension and plenty of energy, complemented by a dash of white pepper on the slightly resinous finish. Drink now-2020.
Visiting Patrick Piuze for the first time at his winery in Chablis ville, not that far from Francois Raveneau, was something that I eagerly anticipated after the praise heaped upon him by David Schildknecht. Indeed, I found much to admire here: one of the region's most active and dynamic micro-negociants that debuted as recently as 2008. Quebec-born Piuze is a coiled-spring of energy and opinions, a principled winemaker who knows exactly what he would like to achieve without pushing too hard. I detected a burning streak of independence about the winemaker. Before tasting through his 2013s he told me about dropping out of college to pursue his passion for wine, backpacking around the world, before finally leaving Montreal for Burgundy in 2000 where he worked at Olivier Leflaive. One has the sense of someone searching for, and eventually finding, his calling. I can empathize with that. Leflaive's portfolio introduced him to Chablis and he was soon starting his tenure as cellar-master at Jean-Marc Brocard. But that independent mind-set continued to burn and perhaps inevitably, he assembled enough friends and contacts to supply him with quality fruit from the region's most desirable vineyards to form his own enterprise. He maintains that youthful rebellious nature; neatly circumventing the appellation-s rules about eschewing premier cru vineyard designations with his "Terroir de?" series that are all worth hunting down. "I pressed a little longer in 2013, since I did not want to risk breaking the cake," he told me as we settled into his underground cellar that stretches underneath the road via a tunnel. "I reverted back to my Vaslin press in 2012 vintage because we did not have enough dry extract in the wine. The 2012 growing season was as good as it gets. There was a slow maturation of berries that gave us very healthy grapes without much disease pressure. We began the harvest on September 20 under good conditions and the cold night preserved high acidity levels. In 2013, I harvested over 8 days instead of the usual 14, finishing on October 5. People probably think it was the rain that was the biggest risk during the harvest, but actually it was the high night temperatures that seemed to keep the rot going. And so, in my opinion, it was actually the Thursday that was the most damaging day. I have undertaken a shorter elevage in order to keep the freshness and the alcohol levels are very moderate, the highest alcohol coming in at 12.3 degrees."
Imported by Aliane Wines, La Jolla, CA; tel. (858) 361-4529; David Bowler Wine, New York, NY; tel. (212) 807-1680; Martine-s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
robert_parker
2023
Rating:
91
–91
Patrick Piuze’s 2023 Chablis Terroir de Chablis, informed by two north-facing parcels near Montmains, is bright and floral, offering notes of lemon zest, white flowers and green apple. Tensile and precise, concluding with a long, mineral finish, it’s one of the domaine’s calling cards.
james_suckling
2017
Rating:
90
–90
Two north-facing parcels, one facing Montmains and one facing Vaillons. The wine has some weight and some richer texture from clay in the soils. It shows melon, almonds and dried peaches. Drink now.
james_suckling
2018
Rating:
90
–90
From north-facing plots, adjacent to Vaillons and Forets. Quite exotic with fresh, ripe apricot and mango aromas, leading to a full-ish palate that’s really fleshy and packed with flavor. Open and so delicious. Drink now.