Critic ratings
vinous
2015
Rating:
92
–92
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Pure but subdued aromas of lemon, pear, menthol, wild herbs and crushed stone. Sweet, silky and fine-grained, with white peach and pear flavors showing a captivating light touch. Really spreads out and lingers on the firm-edged finish. This is distinctly more brisk than it appeared to be from barrel a year age and will need at least a few years of patience.
vinous
2015
Rating:
89
–91
(13.7% alcohol without chaptalization; Niellon added a bit of tartaric acidity to this wine and to the Batard in 2015 as their pHs at harvest were high): Smoky oak dominates the nose. Fat and creamy in the mouth, showing a ripe pineapple flavor; a bit lacking in spine, especially for Chevalier-Montrachet. This plump, thick wine finishes with nutty and smoky nuances and an edge of acidity.
robert_parker
2018
Rating:
95
–95
A deep and complex bouquet mingling notes of mandarin, apple, pear and peach with nuances of toasted nuts, fresh pastry and nutmeg introduces Niellon's 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, rich and textural wine that's ample and muscular, with lively acids and a long, spicy finish. Reminiscent of a slightly livelier version of Niellon's 2015 Chevalier, this is quite open and expressive and will show well young.
robert_parker
2019
Rating:
95
–95
The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of ripe yellow orchard fruit, clear honey, white flowers, toasted almonds and nutmeg. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's lively and concentrated, with a deep, enveloping core, racy acids and a long, precise finish.
robert_parker
2020
Rating:
95
–95
The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru opens in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, pear, freshly baked bread, hazelnuts, pastry cream and white flowers. Full-bodied, ample and seamless, it's layered and concentrated, with lively acids and a long, saline finish.
robert_parker
2017
Rating:
96
–96
There are five barrels worth of the 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, a brilliant wine that unwinds in the glass with a complex bouquet of Meyer lemon, dried white flowers, beeswax, pear, toasted nuts and fresh mint. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and strikingly concentrated, with a bright line of succulent acidity, a textural but weightless profile and a long, lingering finish.
robert_parker
2010
Rating:
92
–92
The 2010 Chevalier-Montrachet is very pretty. It boasts gorgeous inner perfume and terrific balance. Honey, apricots, smoke, nectarines and vanillin all come together in the glass. There is a plushness, sweetness, and a generosity in the Chevalier that is highly attractive. The seamless, finely-knit finish leaves a lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2012+.
Michel Niellon told me the key to the vintage was choosing the right picking date, especially after a thunderstorm in Santenay on September 12 forced many growers to pick a few days earlier than they had originally expected. Yields are down 15-30%, depending on the appellation, mostly because of the irregular flowering. The domaine’s parcels had a high percentage of coulure (shatter) and millerandage (shot berries). According to Niellon, it is the uneven size of the berries that marks the vintage, as the smaller berries gave concentration, while the larger berries contributed acidity. As was the case throughout the region, the malos were quite slow to develop, and a few of these wines were bottled a little later than usual, something that is now possible because of Niellon’s huge warehouse facility in an industrial section of Chassagne a few kilometers from the old, historic part of the village. The 2010s were aged in barrel until just before the 2011 harvest, at which time Niellon bottled the Chassagne-Montrachet, Champ Gains, Vergers and Chaumees. The Clos St. Jean, Maltroie, Chevalier and Batard (which I did not taste) were bottled in October and November 2011.
Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (707) 299-2600
robert_parker
2013
Rating:
95
–95
From five and half barrels, the 2013 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru has a clinical nose with wonderful delineation. It is teasingly aloof at first, distant with faint oyster shell and brine notes, but glimpses only. Then it opens the door ajar with limestone and dewy green apple scents. The palate is extremely well balanced with clearly much higher level of tension than the Premier Crus from Niellon. But it is strict and very linear, long but without the peacock’s tail that will develop with time in bottle. There is almost a Riesling-like poise here, a Chevalier to cellar away while you enjoy the more open Bâtard-Montrachet. Excellent.
robert_parker
2003
Rating:
89
–89
There is lovely aromatic depth to the liqueur of mineral and spice-laden nose of the 2003 Chevalier-Montrachet (white). Toasted nuts, smoky minerals, spices, and hints of oak can be detected in its lush personality. This velvety-textured wine is medium-bodied, well-balanced, and has admirable depth yet reveals a slight alcoholic warmth in the finish that prevented an outstanding score. Projected maturity: now-2011.
Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company., New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
92
–92
Niellon's 1999 Chevalier-Montrachet reveals gorgeously pure mineral aromas. Medium-bodied, refined, and highly delineated, this satin-textured wine offers stone, crisp pear, and apple flavors in its deep personality. It has a long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2012.
Importer: Chateau & Estate Wine Co., New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.
robert_parker
2000
Rating:
92
–92
The 2000 Chevalier-Montrachet has a toasty, spicy nose. Well-delineated, this medium-bodied wine has loads of gravel, mineral, stone, and apple flavors. It is tighter than the Batard, yet is intense, concentrated, and has a long, admirably pure finish. Projected maturity: 2003-2013.
Importer: Seagram Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725
robert_parker
2001
Rating:
95
–95
The 2001 Chevalier-Montrachet bursts from the glass with spice, anise, and linden aromas. Surprisingly big and brawny for a Chevalier, it is lush, forward, chewy-textured, and intense. This concentrated wine has superb depth, loads of gravel, stone, and mineral flavors intermingled with pears. In addition, it possesses a stunningly long, flavorful, elegant finish. Projected maturity: 2005-2013.
To quote the ever-calm Michel Niellon, a man of few words, "There were no problems in 2001, I like the vintage." Having tasted his wines, I can see why.
Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725
robert_parker
2002
Rating:
92
–92
Loads of minerals, gravel, and crisp pears can be found in the aromatic profile of the 2002 Chevalier-Montrachet. This fleshy, light to medium-bodied wine is soft, satiny-textured, and deep. Its tangy mineral-laced personality lingers in its long, pure finish. Projected maturity: 2005-2012.
Michel Niellon began harvesting on the 21st of September. “It’s the first Saturday after the ban de vendange. That’s when I always harvest.” His natural potential alcohols ranged from 12.5 to 12.8%, and he describes 2002 as a year with “loads of flesh, a year to drink young or age six to eight years.” On this latest point, Niellon stressed that he enjoys his wines when they are young. “I like them on the fruit. Others can drink them however they want, but I drink wine to drink fruit. In fact,” he went on, “even though everybody loves the 1996s, I don’t like them. I like supple wines.” Niellon, like Alsace’s Olivier Humbrecht, believes that all whites should be decanted, something that readers should try at home. Personally, I have found that this is the way to go, as it allows the wines to blossom.
Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725
robert_parker
1995
Rating:
96
–96
Niellon's Chevalier Montrachet was one of my trip's most profound bottles. An enticing, floral, super-spicy nose with touches of stones and minerals compel
robert_parker
1996
Rating:
99
–99
This grand cru is unbelievable, possessing everything I could hope for in a white wine. Is this a candidate to merit a perfect score? The profound Chevalier-Montrachet, produced from vines planted in 1968 and 1972, offers a mind-blowingly intricate, precise and refined nose of minerals, chalk, rock dust and flowers. On the palate, this breathtaking wine enthralls with its superbly defined and harmonious medium-to-full-body. Each time I raised the glass to my lips I found new flavors. Minerals, stones, gooseberry, plums, sea shells, toast, raspberries, peaches, pears, honeysuckle blossoms, "champagne" currants, and flint can all be discerned in this silky, lovely, refined, and ethereal wine. Words simply cannot do it justice. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2012.
This wine was bottled early - in August. Niellon is reluctant to pass judgement on a vintage until the wine has been in the bottle for several years. However, he commented that the 1996s are "very lively without being disagreeable", and are similar to his '93s, "but with fruit and more body." Malos were slow to start (a story heard throughout the Cote), and lasted an abnormally long time.
With the exception of my visit to Domaine Coche-Dury, I cannot recall having ever tasted such an extraordinary line-up of young white Burgundies. I left Niellon's cellar yearning for more.
Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.
robert_parker
1997
Rating:
92
–92
Niellon, like many of his forthright colleagues, described the 1997 whites as "delicious and easy to drink." No hyperbole at this address. In the corner of Michel Niellon's cellar stands a barrel on which he places the bottles he serves visitors. When I arrived for my annual tasting, Niellon did what he always does, he moved those bottles to the floor, and pulled new, unopened ones from the stacks awaiting shipping. To my shock they were painfully closed and reeked of sulfur. After some prodding, Niellon acquiesced and allowed me to taste from the wine that had been opened for a few hours. Readers take note: these comments are from a bottled wine that had been opened and had benefited from exposure to air.
The Chevalier-Montrachet reveals superb ripeness in its expressive, mineral, and chalk-packed nose. This fabulous offering is medium-bodied, rich, concentrated, beautifully focused, and has mouth-watering mineral flavors that last throughout its extended and bone-dry finish. Projected maturity: 2002-2009. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.