USA · California · Sonoma County · Sonoma Coast White · Still · wine-wine · 1176681
Lowest offer: 457.1875 GBP (Buy)
Offers: 4 · Bids: 0
| Price / case | Vintage | Packing | Qty | Location |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6061.00 HKD | 2006 | 1 x 75cl | 4 | hk / Hong Kong |
| 39161.42 HKD | 2013 | 6 x 75cl | 1 | hk / Hong Kong |
| 7106.00 GBP | 2016 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 5486.25 GBP | 2017 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
No active bids.
| Vintage | Packing | Offers | Bids | Market price | WA rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2006 | 1 x 75cl | 1 | 0 | 5487.98 | 96 |
| 2006 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 65855.76 | 96 |
| 2006 | 3 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 96 | |
| 2009 | 1 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 98 | |
| 2012 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 72668.16 | 100 |
| 2013 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 38010.72 | 100 |
| 2013 | 6 x 75cl | 1 | 0 | 100 | |
| 2016 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | 0 | ||
| 2017 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | 0 |
Rating: 96 –99
The 2014 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is very young, vibrant and vigorous, offering attractive notes of orange custard, tangerine oil, apple blossom and wood spice. The wine has full body, terrific fruit intensity, beautiful purity, delineation and precision. This is a beauty that could easily equal the 2013, but both the barrel samples need to be retasted from bottle and monitored during their 10-15 years of longevity – at the minimum.
Rating: 96 –100
Not yet bottled, the light-gold colored 2013 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard offers up notes of roasted nuts, brioche, caramelized apricot, orange, peach and honeysuckle as well as a full-bodied mouthfeel, great acidity, and a long, zesty, mineralized finish. It should drink well for 10-15+ years, given its youthfulness and overall equilibrium.
Rating: 100 –100
The 2013 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard may be even better. Notes of caramelized citrus, hazelnut, apple blossom, lemon oil and orange marmalade are all present in this wine of dazzling aromatic and flavor dimension. It is full-bodied, again shows some wet pebbles (which I equate with minerality), vibrant acidity, and no real evidence of any oak. Much like the 2012, the finish goes on for 45+ seconds. This is another killer Chardonnay from Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer.
Rating: 99 –99
Beautiful orange marmalade notes, mixed with apple blossom, pear and white peach are present in the 2012 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard, which has caramelized citrus as well. Like some of the great vintages of Marcassin Chardonnay and others, there is a greenish hue to the light-gold color. The wine is intense, full-bodied and comes across like a great Bâtard-Montrachet such as the heroic 1985 and 1986 from Michel Niellon. Smoky hazelnuts emerge as the wine sits in the glass. This seems to be a great effort in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2020.
Rating: 100 –100
The 2012 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard, which will probably be released in a few months, displays great minerality, notes of honeysuckle, orange marmalade, poached pear, and white flowers as well as a touch of quince. A wine of great intensity, yet incredibly ethereal elegance, this light greenish gold-colored wine is full-bodied, stunningly rich, and altogether remarkable. When you consider that they use 100% new French oak and 100% heavy toast for both their Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, it is remarkable how little oak appears in these wines. This wine should age well for 10-15 years, as most of the Marcassin Estate Chardonnays have done to date.
Rating: 97 –97
The 2011 is a great Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard from a much-maligned and sometimes excessively criticized vintage. 2011 has its low points, but there are many producers who got it right, and survived the challenging growing and harvest conditions. This wine has phenomenal intensity, with plenty of crushed rock, pineapple, honeysuckle, orange and tangerine blossom in an elegant, medium to full-bodied style, with terrific intensity, good acidity and freshness. This is more evolved than either the 2009 or 2010, and probably will be a candidate for 7-8 years of aging, rather than 10 or more.
Rating: 99 –99
With a slightly smokier edge to the honeysuckle, poached pear, pineapple and caramelized citrus notes, the 2010 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard hits the palate with a full-bodied, thunderous affect of fruit, glycerin and acidity. The wine reveals some smoke in the aromatics, but little, if any, in the flavor profile. Full-bodied, lovely, and again, close to perfection (as so often these wines are), this is a beauty to drink over the next decade or more.
Rating: 99 –99
Flirting with perfection, the 2010 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate exhibits a serious liqueur of stones along with a greenish hue to its straw color, fabulous density, richness and full-bodied power, but zesty acids and notes of quince, white currants, subtle peach, brioche and apricot marmalade are all present in this multi-dimensional, complex, stunning Chardonnay that will be released in 2014. It should easily last for 10-15 years. The visionary husband and wife team of John Wetlaufer and Helen Turley have created a largely unprecedented legacy of extraordinary quality that is unsurpassed by anyone else in Northern California. They have built a winery in Windsor, California in Sonoma Valley with 20 acres of vines situated high above the fog line, on the Sonoma Coast. They were among the first to recognize the extraordinary potential for world-class quality wine production on the Sonoma Coast. Their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines are planted at elevations between 800 and 1,400 feet. The plantings are either 5 x 8 or 3 x 6.5. The Chardonnay clonal material is dominated by Old Wente, but there are also selections from the Hyde, Mt. Eden, Dijon 95 and Dijon 76 clones. The Pinot Noir clonal material is dominated by the Calera selection, with some Old Swan that came via the old Martin Ray clone that came via Dehlinger and Kistler. The second part of their 20-acre vineyard was planted, at least for the Pinot Noir, largely with the Calera selection as well as the newer Dijon clones 777 and 667.The winemaking techniques are clearly artisanal and very Burgundian, although these Chardonnays tend to age better than most white Burgundies made since 1996. I tasted two vintages, the Three Sisters, which is a Martinelli-farmed vineyard from which they will no longer be using fruit, in addition to their profound estate vineyard. 2010 produced just over two tons of fruit per acre and was a vintage that appears to be slightly more intense and have a higher ceiling than 2009. Tel. (707) 942-5633
Rating: 98 –98
Light gold in color, with an extraordinary nose of poached pears, citrus honey and a touch of orange rind, the 2009 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard has beautiful fruit, a full-bodied mouthfeel, penetrating acids and an underlying minerality and richness. The finish goes on for a good 40-45 seconds. This is sensational Chardonnay and very much in keeping with this vineyard. Drink now-2020.
Rating: 96 –96
Year in and year out, the Chardonnay Marcassin Estate is one of the two or three most profound Chardonnays made in California, and a wine that could dominate any tasting of white Burgundies. The 2009 offers up notes of honeysuckle, citrus oil, tangerines, white peach and wet gravel followed by a wine with a full-bodied mouthfeel and zesty acidity. It should evolve for 10-15 years. Both 2009 and 2010 were cool years, and both were eclipsed in coldness by 2011. I still have their vintages from the nineties, both the first Estate bottlings and of course wines they made from vineyards such as the Upper Barn-Gauer (now owned by Kendall-Jackson) and the Lorenzo Vineyard from the mid-nineties that are still in fabulous conditions. So there is an argument to be made that Marcassin along with Mt. Eden and the old Chalones from the seventies and early eighties are examples of the longest-lived Chardonnays ever produced in California. The visionary husband and wife team of John Wetlaufer and Helen Turley have created a largely unprecedented legacy of extraordinary quality that is unsurpassed by anyone else in Northern California. They have built a winery in Windsor, California in Sonoma Valley with 20 acres of vines situated high above the fog line, on the Sonoma Coast. They were among the first to recognize the extraordinary potential for world-class quality wine production on the Sonoma Coast. Their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines are planted at elevations between 800 and 1,400 feet. The plantings are either 5 x 8 or 3 x 6.5. The Chardonnay clonal material is dominated by Old Wente, but there are also selections from the Hyde, Mt. Eden, Dijon 95 and Dijon 76 clones. The Pinot Noir clonal material is dominated by the Calera selection, with some Old Swan that came via the old Martin Ray clone that came via Dehlinger and Kistler. The second part of their 20-acre vineyard was planted, at least for the Pinot Noir, largely with the Calera selection as well as the newer Dijon clones 777 and 667.The winemaking techniques are clearly artisanal and very Burgundian, although these Chardonnays tend to age better than most white Burgundies made since 1996. I tasted two vintages, the Three Sisters, which is a Martinelli-farmed vineyard from which they will no longer be using fruit, in addition to their profound estate vineyard. 2010 produced just over two tons of fruit per acre and was a vintage that appears to be slightly more intense and have a higher ceiling than 2009. Tel. (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –99
Flirting with perfection, the 2007 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate is a prodigious offering of compelling intensity, minerality, and flavor depth and dimension. An amazing bouquet of poached pears, lemon butter, crushed rocks, and waxy notes intermixed with background hints of spring flowers and a liqueur of stones is followed by a full-bodied wine whose oak component is completely obliterated by the fruit concentration, texture, and depth. This amazing, yet tightly-knit Chardonnay should hit its peak in 2-3 years, and last for 15 or more ,the 1998, which was not as strong as this 2007 at the same age, is at its plateau of full maturity with many years of life ahead of it. Fortunately, as the new plantings from Marcassin’s Sonoma Coast vineyards come into production, there will be additional quantities of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to help fulfill the ever increasing demand for these wines. Furthermore, from now on, Marcassin will only deal with their own fruit, and they are ending their relationship with the Martinelli family and will no longer share the fruit from the Three Sisters Vineyard for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as the Blue Slide Ridge for Pinot Noir. One-hundred percent of that fruit will now go to the Martinellis as proprietors Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer concentrate on their estate holdings. I have been purchasing their wines since the early nineties, and it’s remarkable how well the Marcassin wines age. Recent examples of the 1995 and 1997 Chardonnays (which were made from purchased fruit), particularly the Lorenzo and Gauer, are holding up beautifully. They are aging better than most white Burgundies of a similar age. Their Pinot Noirs are also performing brilliantly given what the 1998s, 1999s, and 2000s taste like after a decade of aging. With respect to upcoming releases (one is never quite certain what will be released when, as Marcassin’s release program is relatively late, and difficult to predict), they should include the 2006 and 2007 Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, which I tasted in late October, 2009. All the Pinot Noirs need considerable aeration, and are among the few Pinots that I would recommend decanting. They all are reminiscent of northern red Burgundies, particularly those from the village of Morey-St.-Denis. The 2007 Pinot Noirs are more backward than their 2006 counterparts, and, assuming they will be released this year, are best cellared for 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –99
The 2007 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate is a California version of a Corton-Charlemagne. The vineyard is planted with old Wente clones on steep, volcanic soils and this wine (which I reviewed last year just after bottling) continues to reveal staggering potential. It actually will benefit from 3-4 years of bottle age. My first comment when tasting it was “great stuff.” The liqueur of minerality and the citrus blossom notes intermixed with hints of orange rind, white currant and unbuttered popcorn are followed by a dense, concentrated, bone dry white wine with fabulous fruit purity, a full-bodied texture and layer upon layer of richness and depth. The finish seems almost endless and the wine appears to be bursting at the seams trying to escape from its structural restraints. This prodigious Chardonnay should be hitting on all cylinders in 3-4 years and last for two decades or more (if you can defer your gratification that long). It was great to see Helen Turley finally make the cover of the Wine Spectator in 2010 after twenty years of this brilliant, artisanal operation being largely ignored. Readers will not find anyone more knowledgeable about viticulture and winemaking than the husband and wife team of Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer. While much of the article’s focus is on how many top wineries Helen Turley once served as a consultant, their long term goal was always to be completely independent of any consulting jobs, focusing solely on their own vineyard. As I reported last year, there will no longer be any Pinot Noir from the Blue Slide Vineyard or Chardonnay from the Three Sisters Vineyard (both sites owned by the well-known Martinelli family in the Russian River). However, there will be more Marcassin Estate wines as they now have 20 acres under vine on the steep hillsides of the Sonoma Coast. Both Turley and Wetlaufer were among the first in California to try and emulate the full malolactic style found in most French white Burgundies. There is plenty of history to support what they are trying to accomplish. Wetlaufer, who was the wine buyer at the All Seasons Market in Calistoga, was a huge Burgundy fan at the time, and he formed a Burgundy tasting group with many other well-known winemakers. That gave him the opportunity to analyze both white and red Burgundies, and to get a detailed perspective of Burgundy. It is ironic that the Marcassin Chardonnays probably eclipse 98% of white Burgundies made today for their complexity and aging potential. While I have never been a believer in the ageworthiness of California Chardonnay vis a vis white Burgundy, all I have to do is go back and open a 1996 or 1995 Marcassin Chardonnay, which was then made from purchased fruit, to recognize how amazingly well their wines age. Readers have two spectacular vintages from Marcassin coming on the market – the 2007 and 2008 Chardonnays as well as the 2007 and 2006 Pinot Noirs. The 2008 Chardonnays are remarkable as well. There was no frost damage at the Marcassin estate because of the vineyard’s lofty elevation. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –99
A staggering Chardonnay that’s still an infant, the light yellow/green/gold 2007 offers up notes of unbuttered popcorn, orange liqueur, lemon butter, quince and crushed rocks. It possesses terrific underlying acidity, a full-bodied mouthfeel and a youthfulness and freshness that suggest this wine has two decades of life ahead of it. This majestic Chardonnay seems more French than Californian, but again, this reflects the significance of the labor of these two overachieving, push-the-envelope visionaries. What California viticulture and high-class, minimalist winemaking can achieve is exhibited in bold fashion by this 2007. It will hit its prime in 5-7 years, and appears to be a replay of the 2002 stylistically as well as for its overall potential. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
In what could have been the most difficult vintage since 1998 for Chardonnay in the Sonoma area, the Marcassin 2006 Chardonnays are brilliant A magnificent wine is the 2006 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate. Light gold in color, it has a sensational nose of subtle honeysuckle, poached pear, creme brulee, white peaches, white flowers, and wet rocks. The wine is stunningly rich and full-bodied, with dazzling minerality, finesse, and length. It is as good as Chardonnay can get, and a candidate for the Chardonnay of the vintage. Look for it to drink well for 7-8 years, which is an atypically long for a 2006. Marcassin Estate continues to grow, although still ever so tiny, with just over 20 acres of tightly spaced vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. They also supplement their estate bottlings with purchased fruit from vineyards owned by the Martinelli family which they help manage, the Three Sisters Vineyard for Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir from the Blue Slide Vineyard. Their dominant Chardonnay clones continue to be based on the old Wente clones taken from the Hudson and Hyde Vineyards, and the Mt.Eden clone. The Pinot Noir material is dominated by California heritage clones. Little changes under the firm’s leadership of Helen Turley and her husband John Wetlaufer (now married 42 years), and as someone raised in Maryland, I am proud to say they were schooled at the renowned St. John’s College in Annapolis, Maryland. They have always been committed to the highest quality of wines possible. It is akin to being tutored by a great master to sit down and taste through their series of Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. They added a few wrinkles this time by throwing into the tasting a 2005 Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet, which was completely obliterated by their own Chardonnays, and with the Pinot Noirs, a highly rated grand cru red Burgundy from the 2005 vintage that didn’t fare particularly well either. Their point was that not only are their wines superior (and I would certainly agree with these comparisons), but also that some of the most famous names in Burgundy have more sizzle and snobbery behind them than actual quality. The Pinot Noirs are very complex and need lots of aeration/decanting to strut their stuff. They continue to remind me of grand crus from Morey St.-Denis, especially wines such as Ponsot’s Clos de la Roche because of the following. NOTE: Prices noted are from the winery’s mailing list. These wines sell for 2 to 3 times more in the secondary market. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
As for the 2006 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate, it is a more mineral-dominated wine displaying a liqueur of crushed rocks/wet stones, pears, and subtle smoky, honeysuckle, quince, and citrus oil notes. It also possesses exceptional length and richness as well as a full-bodied mouthfeel. Given the history of the vintage and the challenging conditions for Chardonnay, I would suspect these wines will evolve quickly by Marcassin’s standards, meaning they are probably best drunk in their first decade of life. Fortunately, as the new plantings from Marcassin’s Sonoma Coast vineyards come into production, there will be additional quantities of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to help fulfill the ever increasing demand for these wines. Furthermore, from now on, Marcassin will only deal with their own fruit, and they are ending their relationship with the Martinelli family and will no longer share the fruit from the Three Sisters Vineyard for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as the Blue Slide Ridge for Pinot Noir. One-hundred percent of that fruit will now go to the Martinellis as proprietors Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer concentrate on their estate holdings. I have been purchasing their wines since the early nineties, and it’s remarkable how well the Marcassin wines age. Recent examples of the 1995 and 1997 Chardonnays (which were made from purchased fruit), particularly the Lorenzo and Gauer, are holding up beautifully. They are aging better than most white Burgundies of a similar age. Their Pinot Noirs are also performing brilliantly given what the 1998s, 1999s, and 2000s taste like after a decade of aging. With respect to upcoming releases (one is never quite certain what will be released when, as Marcassin’s release program is relatively late, and difficult to predict), they should include the 2006 and 2007 Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, which I tasted in late October, 2009. All the Pinot Noirs need considerable aeration, and are among the few Pinots that I would recommend decanting. They all are reminiscent of northern red Burgundies, particularly those from the village of Morey-St.-Denis. The 2007 Pinot Noirs are more backward than their 2006 counterparts, and, assuming they will be released this year, are best cellared for 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
Buttery brioche, honeyed citrus, caramelized pear and lemon, and a distinct earthy aroma jump from the glass of this light medium gold-colored wine. More buttery than most Marcassin Chardonnays, with good acidity, this deep, rich, full-bodied beauty is somewhat outclassed by some of the compelling efforts that have been produced at this magical vineyard. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –99
Edging toward perfection (not unusual for these wines) is the 2005 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate. White flowers, white currants, crushed rock, quince, lemon butter, nectarine are all present in this wine, which has exceptional minerality and always reminds me of a grand cru white Burgundy such as Chevalier-Montrachet or a Coche-Dury Mersault Perrieres because of its liquid stone and floral notes. The wine has a gorgeous backbone of acidity to buttress the concentrated, rich flavors. This is sensational Chardonnay that should age effortlessly for a decade or more. Marcassin Estate continues to grow, although still ever so tiny, with just over 20 acres of tightly spaced vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. They also supplement their estate bottlings with purchased fruit from vineyards owned by the Martinelli family which they help manage, the Three Sisters Vineyard for Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir from the Blue Slide Vineyard. Their dominant Chardonnay clones continue to be based on the old Wente clones taken from the Hudson and Hyde Vineyards, and the Mt.Eden clone. The Pinot Noir material is dominated by California heritage clones. Little changes under the firm’s leadership of Helen Turley and her husband John Wetlaufer (now married 42 years), and as someone raised in Maryland, I am proud to say they were schooled at the renowned St. John’s College in Annapolis, Maryland. They have always been committed to the highest quality of wines possible. It is akin to being tutored by a great master to sit down and taste through their series of Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. They added a few wrinkles this time by throwing into the tasting a 2005 Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet, which was completely obliterated by their own Chardonnays, and with the Pinot Noirs, a highly rated grand cru red Burgundy from the 2005 vintage that didn’t fare particularly well either. Their point was that not only are their wines superior (and I would certainly agree with these comparisons), but also that some of the most famous names in Burgundy have more sizzle and snobbery behind them than actual quality. The Pinot Noirs are very complex and need lots of aeration/decanting to strut their stuff. They continue to remind me of grand crus from Morey St.-Denis, especially wines such as Ponsot’s Clos de la Roche because of the following. NOTE: Prices noted are from the winery’s mailing list. These wines sell for 2 to 3 times more in the secondary market. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –99
Previously recommended, no tasting note given. Fortunately, as the new plantings from Marcassin’s Sonoma Coast vineyards come into production, there will be additional quantities of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to help fulfill the ever increasing demand for these wines. Furthermore, from now on, Marcassin will only deal with their own fruit, and they are ending their relationship with the Martinelli family and will no longer share the fruit from the Three Sisters Vineyard for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as the Blue Slide Ridge for Pinot Noir. One-hundred percent of that fruit will now go to the Martinellis as proprietors Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer concentrate on their estate holdings. I have been purchasing their wines since the early nineties, and it’s remarkable how well the Marcassin wines age. Recent examples of the 1995 and 1997 Chardonnays (which were made from purchased fruit), particularly the Lorenzo and Gauer, are holding up beautifully. They are aging better than most white Burgundies of a similar age. Their Pinot Noirs are also performing brilliantly given what the 1998s, 1999s, and 2000s taste like after a decade of aging. With respect to upcoming releases (one is never quite certain what will be released when, as Marcassin’s release program is relatively late, and difficult to predict), they should include the 2006 and 2007 Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, which I tasted in late October, 2009. All the Pinot Noirs need considerable aeration, and are among the few Pinots that I would recommend decanting. They all are reminiscent of northern red Burgundies, particularly those from the village of Morey-St.-Denis. The 2007 Pinot Noirs are more backward than their 2006 counterparts, and, assuming they will be released this year, are best cellared for 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
High in acidity and broodingly backward is the 2005 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard. The high acids are easily balanced by profound levels of concentration. Guava, nectarine, orange blossom, and other citrus appear in the flavor profile, along with an intense liquid minerality. Full-bodied, with no evidence of its new oak aging, it boasts sensational texture, richness, and length. Cellar it for 3-4 years and enjoy it over the following 15+ ... a freakishly long life for California Chardonnay. NOTE: Prices are approximate as the winery releases the wines at very reasonable prices, but buyers who resell them usually do so in the $300-350 per bottle range. Tasting at Marcassin with Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer is one of the more satisfying appointments a wine critic could have. This is commitment to excellence at its highest level. An unwavering, uncompromising brilliance and focus is reflected in not only meticulous work in the vineyard, but also in highly detailed winemaking that consistently succeeds in producing some of the finest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs in the world. Even more interesting, since they have rarely given interviews, will be the two books that Turley and Wetlaufer are writing independently of each other. They possess an accumulation of knowledge and experience that is, as the advertising industry would say, “priceless.” Hopefully some of that will soon make its way onto the written pages for future generations. Previously recommended: 2003 Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch (95), 2003 Chardonnay Three Sisters Vineyard (96), 2003 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard (97+). Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 98 –98
A stunning bouquet of tangerines, brioche, wet rocks, honeysuckle, lanolin, white flowers and quince emerges from this young Chardonnay. With a light gold/green color, great acidity, a rich, full-bodied mouthfeel, fabulous texture, and a 40+-second finish, the 2005 is still an infant in terms of development. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 97 –97
Previously recommended, but not tasting note given. Marcassin Estate continues to grow, although still ever so tiny, with just over 20 acres of tightly spaced vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. They also supplement their estate bottlings with purchased fruit from vineyards owned by the Martinelli family which they help manage, the Three Sisters Vineyard for Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir from the Blue Slide Vineyard. Their dominant Chardonnay clones continue to be based on the old Wente clones taken from the Hudson and Hyde Vineyards, and the Mt.Eden clone. The Pinot Noir material is dominated by California heritage clones. Little changes under the firm’s leadership of Helen Turley and her husband John Wetlaufer (now married 42 years), and as someone raised in Maryland, I am proud to say they were schooled at the renowned St. John’s College in Annapolis, Maryland. They have always been committed to the highest quality of wines possible. It is akin to being tutored by a great master to sit down and taste through their series of Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. They added a few wrinkles this time by throwing into the tasting a 2005 Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet, which was completely obliterated by their own Chardonnays, and with the Pinot Noirs, a highly rated grand cru red Burgundy from the 2005 vintage that didn’t fare particularly well either. Their point was that not only are their wines superior (and I would certainly agree with these comparisons), but also that some of the most famous names in Burgundy have more sizzle and snobbery behind them than actual quality. The Pinot Noirs are very complex and need lots of aeration/decanting to strut their stuff. They continue to remind me of grand crus from Morey St.-Denis, especially wines such as Ponsot’s Clos de la Roche because of the following. NOTE: Prices noted are from the winery’s mailing list. These wines sell for 2 to 3 times more in the secondary market. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
A light greenish-hued wine but with an overall sort of yellow color is the 2004 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate. This is always the most backward and stony of the wines, with almost a liquid minerality interwoven with some hints of hazelnut, pineapple, white peach, and brioche-like notes. Quite full, powerful, rich, and built to last, this wine should evolve for at least a decade. Not yet released. Previously recommended: 2002 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard (99), 2002 Chardonnay Three Sisters (96), 2002 Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch (95), 2002 Pinot Noir Blue Slide Ridge (95+), 2002 Pinot Noir Bondi Home Ranch (94), 2002 Pinot Noir Marcassin Estate (98), 2002 Pinot Noir Three Sisters (96). Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 97 –97
The Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is often the quintessential Chardonnay of the New World. With respect to the 2004, high acids, a greenish hue (also apparent in the Three Sisters cuvee) to the light straw/gold color, and notes of quince, crushed rocks, white currants, and subtle hazelnut, tropical fruit, and white peach characteristics are found in this beautiful Chardonnay. There is a subtle underlying buttery character, but the minerality and acidity both jump forward. This white seems to have a tannic structure much like a red wine. Still incredibly young, it should hit its peak in 3-4 years, and last for 12-15. It is clearly becoming the most consistent, long-lived Chardonnay of California. NOTE: Prices are approximate as the winery releases the wines at very reasonable prices, but buyers who resell them usually do so in the $300-350 per bottle range. Tasting at Marcassin with Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer is one of the more satisfying appointments a wine critic could have. This is commitment to excellence at its highest level. An unwavering, uncompromising brilliance and focus is reflected in not only meticulous work in the vineyard, but also in highly detailed winemaking that consistently succeeds in producing some of the finest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs in the world. Even more interesting, since they have rarely given interviews, will be the two books that Turley and Wetlaufer are writing independently of each other. They possess an accumulation of knowledge and experience that is, as the advertising industry would say, “priceless.” Hopefully some of that will soon make its way onto the written pages for future generations. Previously recommended: 2003 Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch (95), 2003 Chardonnay Three Sisters Vineyard (96), 2003 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard (97+). Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 94 –94
The 2004 reveals the shortest, most abrupt finish of any wine in this vertical. Still young and medium to full-bodied, its notes of white peaches, crushed rocks, mandarin, corn and honeysuckle remind me of Coche-Dury’s Corton-Charlemagne. It is a lovely wine, although it is more narrowly constructed than the greatest vintages of Marcassin Estate. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 97 –97
The flagship wine, aged in 100% new French oak, is the 2003 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate. It came across as a California Corton-Charlemagne look-alike, with aromas of white fruits intermixed with brioche, hazelnut, liquified rocks, and a touch of gun flint. The wine has glorious richness, crisp underlying acidity, some hints of orange blossom, great structure, and a soaring, long finish of close to a minute. This is a stunner that is about as compelling as any Chardonnay made in the world. It should drink well for up to a decadel. Previously recommended: 2002 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard (99), 2002 Chardonnay Three Sisters (96), 2002 Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch (95), 2002 Pinot Noir Blue Slide Ridge (95+), 2002 Pinot Noir Bondi Home Ranch (94), 2002 Pinot Noir Marcassin Estate (98), 2002 Pinot Noir Three Sisters (96). Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 97 –97
The Chevalier-Montrachet-like 2003 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard exhibits liquid stone-like notes interwoven with popcorn, candied oranges, citrus oil, melon, and honeyed green apples. A top vintage of Corton-Charlemagne was the only wine I could think of when I was smelling and tasting this extraordinary wine. Broad, rich, and beautifully pure as well as nuanced, it should drink well for at least a decade. (Release date Fall 2006) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 95 –95
An evolved medium gold color (no greenish hue) rivals a handful of the older looking Chardonnays that were a rarity in this vertical tasting. More honeyed brioche notes are intertwined with notions of damp earth, dense, rich fruit and tighter aromatics. Well-made, full-bodied and rich, but monolithic, it will last another 5-10 years, but I doubt it will be one of the most brilliant wines of the group. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 98 –98
The 2002 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is a prodigious effort. Some vintages remind me of a Michel Niellon Batard-Montrachet, others of a Coche-Dury Meursault-Perrieres or Corton-Charlemagne. The 2002 exhibits a style reminiscent of a top vintage of Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne. A liqueur of stone-like bouquet soars from the glass offering up aromas of white flowers, honeyed tangerines, and caramelized citrus candy. Pears, nectarines, and a liquid minerality come through on the palate of this full-bodied, unevolved but extraordinarily dense, fabulously concentrated wine that has a steely backbone. Amazing stuff, it is further evidence of just what a magical piece of property Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer farm on the Sonoma Coast. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 12-15 years. (Not yet released) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
As usual, the 2002 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is the most noble, complex effort of this group, but it has unquestionably gone into a shell. This dense, chewy 2002 behaves more like a grand cru white Burgundy than a typical California Chardonnay. Powerful, concentrated, and profound, it requires 1-2 years of bottle age, and should last for a decade or more. (Release date Fall 2005) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –99
Not surprisingly, the 2002 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is tight, but has come on like gang busters and is certainly a remarkable effort. Tasting like a prodigious Chevalier-Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne, it exhibits wonderfully subtle notes of nectarine, hazelnut, crushed rock, white currants, and a touch of smoke and earth. Full-bodied with great acidity, this glorious effort may be the Chardonnay of the vintage. It should drink well for at least a decade. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 100 –100
A massive explosion of white flower, corn relish, orange rind, lemon butter and sea breeze-like characteristics jump from the glass of this light gold/greenish-hued 2002. Magnificent fruit, a full-bodied texture, and superb intensity as well as precision characterize this youthful, full-throttle Marcassin. It comes across like an exquisite Batard-Montrachet (although recent Batards I have tasted tend to be oxidized). The 2002 Marcassin has two decades of life remaining. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
From one of the New World’s true grand cru vineyards, and always a candidate for Chardonnay of the vintage since its debut release in 1996, the 2001 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard boasts a liqueur of rocks characteristic in its big, leesy, honeysuckle-scented nose, along with buttery, caramelized citrus, a hint of tropical fruit, huge, ripe notes of nectarines, smoke, and minerals. This beautiful Chardonnay should hit its prime in 2-3 years, and last for a decade. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –100
The potentially perfect 2001 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard (250 cases) is pure liquid stones with a liqueur-like intensity that reminds me of a Montrachet or Meursault-Perrieres. It is dense and full-bodied, with huge notes of tangerine skin intermixed with white peaches, acacia flowers, and that ever-dominating gun flint and candied mineral character, this prodigious offering should age effortlessly for a decade. (Price not yet determined) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 100 –100
Probably the biggest sleeper vintage in the tasting (I had not expected this wine to perform so well), I have always had a preference for the 2002, but in this tasting, the 2001 revealed abundant notes of candied oranges, brioche, hazelnuts, caramelized lemon and hints of pineapple and mandarin. With a youthful color, huge body and enormous richness and length, this multidimensional, young wine has 10-15 years ahead of it. It is a remarkable achievement. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 98 –98
The exquisite 2000 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is a broad, gorgeously perfumed, light green/gold-colored effort revealing tremendous power as well as notes of hazelnuts intermixed with white peaches, citrus oils, and other exotic fruits. It has great depth, tremendous delineation, a firm underpinning of acidity, and a 50-second finish. This spectacular Chardonnay once again proves that this is one of northern California’s great Chardonnay (and Pinot Noir) vineyards. It should be decanted prior to service, and promises to be one of California’s longest lived Chardonnays. (Not yet released) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 89 –89
The first Marcassin I have tasted, but rather outplayed by the Chardonnay from Peter Michael. The nose is a little muffled with scents of baked green apple and a touch of pear. The palate is lacking a little cohesion and breeding. Competently made but not triggering my olfactory senses. Drink from 2007.
Rating: 96 –96
The sensational 2000 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard reveals a green/gold color in addition to high levels of acidity, a tight but powerful personality, a liquid minerality that typifies this vineyard, and a phenomenal length of 45+ seconds. As it sits in the glass, aromas of smoky hazelnuts, pineapples, and other exotic fruits emerge. Give it another 12 months of cellaring and enjoy it over the next decade. Wow! (Release date 3/04) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
The surprisingly youthful, light gold/greenish-colored 2000 exhibits a bouquet of mandarin oranges, buttered citrus, brioche, smoke, toast and honeyed pears. This young, full-bodied wine is not yet as complex as some older vintages, but it is bright, vibrant and exuberant. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 97 –97
The just released 1999 which I just tasted confirms what I wrote in issue 142. This is my current score.
Rating: 96 –98
There will be approximately 225 cases of the 1999 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard. This wine, from a vineyard planted on a steep, rocky hillside with shallow top soil, and meter by meter spacing, comes close to a magical synthesis of Michel Niellon's Batard-Montrachet and Coche-Dury's Corton-Charlemagne blended with California's extraordinary ripeness and richness from low-yielding Chardonnay fruit. It is an unctuous, full-bodied, gorgeously delineated offering with an extraordinary perfume of liquid minerals interspersed with citrus oils, honey, and a steely smokiness. The compelling aromatics are matched by the extraordinary attack, mid-palate, and finish. This profound Chardonnay is California's most singular expression of this varietal. Moreover, it will have an effortless evolution of 10-12+ years. (Not yet released) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 98 –98
The 1999 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard recalls the 1985 Niellon Batard-Montrachet or Chevalier. It offers up extraordinary, concentrated honeyed pineapple fruit intermixed with candied orange and lemon peel, liquid stones, and a steely finish. It is layered, with superb purity. This work of art should drink well for 10-12 years. (Release date 4/03) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 95 –95
A light gold color with a greenish hue is followed by notes of tangerine, lanolin, orange rind, lemon butter and wet rocks in this ripe, youthful, full-bodied, zesty Chardonnay. Much younger than the 1997, but neither as complex nor profound as the 1998 or 1996, it should provide delicious drinking for another 10+ years. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –99
The 1998 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is a tour de force in Chardonnay winemaking. It has developed gorgeously since last year, and is one of the most compelling Chardonnays produced in either France or California. It reveals the essence of crushed sea shells in its complex, multidimensional bouquet, which also offers up aromas of lemon liqueur, minerals, honeyed citrus, orange marmalade, and smoke. Still tightly-knit, it possesses full body, layers of concentration, and a red wine-like structure, power, and finish. The whopping 14.9% alcohol is well-concealed behind the wine's fruit and extract. The overall impression is of an extraordinarily well-delineated, intense, powerful Chardonnay trying to burst loose from its reins. Still backward, it has the potential to develop for at least a decade. (Not yet released) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 95 –96
The spectacular 1998 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard (150 cases) offers up aromas of buttered citrus, what the Alsatians call petrol (liquid earth/slate/flint), gorgeously complex, leesy, roasted fruit and nuts, and nicely integrated toasty oak. Intense and full-bodied, with tangy acidity, this massive yet bright, extraordinarily delineated wine must be tasted to be believed. It needs 1-2 years of bottle age, but promises to be one of the handful California Chardonnays to improve beyond a decade. This wine is available through the winery's mailing list, although some preferred Napa Valley restaurants, particularly the French Laundry, and in New York (Daniel and La Bernadin), seem to receive noteworthy allocations. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –99
The 1998 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard is a phenomenal effort! Its 14.9% alcohol is hidden beneath a cascade of aromas and flavors suggesting a liqueur made from crushed seashells, candied citrus, honeysuckle, and lemon butter. It is rich and full-bodied, with an unctuous texture, good acidity that provides a significant framework for the wine's intensity and concentration, and an extraordinary finish. This is a virtually perfect Chardonnay ... again! Drink it over the next decade. (Release date 9/02) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 100 –100
From what may be the most difficult vintage Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer have confronted in their careers, the 1998 is a monumental effort that has reached full maturity, but is in no danger of falling apart. It reminds me of a top Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet from the 1980s and early 1990s. With hints of citrus butter, crushed seashells, honeysuckle, guava, pear and smoke intermixed with lots of glycerin, this is one of their more powerful, alcoholic Chardonnays (14.9% alcohol). Wet gravel/earthy/volcanic notes are also detectable in this full-bodied, gorgeously youthful, light gold/green-colored 1998. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –100
I'm going out on the proverbial limb and state that I do not believe I have ever tasted a greater Chardonnay made in the New World (for that matter I have rarely tasted a white Burgundy this extraordinary) as Marcassin's 1997 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard. All 200+ cases would find a home in my cellar, but like most mailing list customers, I will be lucky to get 2 or 3 bottles. It is an astonishing wine/work of art. What makes it even more compelling than its siblings? Aromatically it offers all the leesy, Burgundian-styled complexity one could want - roasted nuts, honeyed citrus, minerals, etc., etc. Layers of flavor in this exceptionally full-bodied wine totally hide its powerful alcohol (14.5%), yet its most provocative character is its liquid minerality, something I have only tasted in Comte Lafon's Meursault-Perrieres and a handful of Chevalier-Montrachets and Montrachets. There is a liquid petrol note similar to that found in the most concentrated Montrachets and Rieslings, in this spectacular, mind-boggling, prodigious Chardonnay that must be tasted to be believed. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2010. Owners Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer continue to reside at the top of a short list of producers making the world's most prodigious, complex wines. They were hesitant about showing me the 1997s since my visit was only one week following bottling. Consequently, these evaluations, as ecstatic as they might be, are probably on the low end of the pleasure/complexity scale of hedonism and intellectual satisfaction. Although quantities are still minute, the total production has risen, as the 1997 vintage was a generous one. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 97 –97
The 1997 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard's liquid mineral and crushed sea shell aromas and flavors are present in this full-bodied, mineral-laced, lemon, honey, buttery Chardonnay. It boasts layers of flavor (citrus oils, orange marmalade, and hazelnuts), majestic concentration, and an unreal finish that lasts for over 40 seconds. It should be approachable upon its release in 2001, and age beautifully for a decade. (Not yet released) Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 100 –100
I have never tasted a more compelling Chardonnay made in the New World (and rarely have a tasted a white Burgundy such as this) as Marcassin's 1997 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard. There are 200 cases of this wine, which ranks among the finest dry whites to ever cross my palate. Aged in 100% new French oak, this powerful (14.5% alcohol) effort represents the pinnacle of perfection. Dazzling aromatics offer up leesy, roasted nut, coffee, liquid slate, minerals, honeyed citrus, and subtle toast scents. Extremely full-bodied, with multiple layers of flavor, and that liquid petroleum note, this is a spectacular, blazingly well-focused, symmetrical yet enormous wine that should age nicely for a decade, perhaps longer. It goes against everything I have learned in my wine career that something this perfect, complex, and rich, could be produced from five year old vines. But the truth, as always, can be found in the bottle ... in vino veritas ... and then some. This wine is available through the winery's mailing list, although some preferred Napa Valley restaurants, particularly the French Laundry, and in New York (Daniel and La Bernadin), seem to receive noteworthy allocations. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
Although tight, the 1997 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard offers up gorgeous notes of liquified oranges, hazelnuts, and citrus oils, with high levels of acidity, a backward, full-bodied palate impression, and a finish that lasts over 40 seconds. It requires another 4-6 months of bottle age, and should age effortlessly for a decade. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
Revealing a tell-tale greenish hue to its deep gold color (which is more mature and older looking than the 1996s), the 1997 exhibits aromas of roasted hazelnuts, smoke, brioche, honeyed melons and honeysuckle. Although it is neither as complex nor compelling as the 1996 (it’s hard to follow an utterly perfect wine), it is a full-bodied Chardonnay offering notes of liquified tropical fruit, good acidity, and a slightly more monolithic quality than its older sibling. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
The second vintage of the Marcassin Vineyard Estate Chardonnay reveals how special this Sonoma Coast terroir appears to be. In 1996, a tiny crop of 2 tons of fruit from 2.75 acres was produced. The wine is the tightest, most backward of the 1996 offerings, and will require 2-3 years of bottle age before it begins to strut its stuff. Much like its 1995 counterpart, although even more intense, the 1996 represents the mineral essence, liquid stone-like character commonly found in certain Montrachets and wines from Les Perrieres vineyard in Meursault. The wine is full-bodied, with extraordinary precision, good acidity, and remarkable length, but it has yet to reveal much more than its weight, richness, and gravelly, mineral-dominated character. This wine's evolution will be fascinating to follow. The 1996 Chardonnays may not quite attain the level of the 1995s, but keep in mind, 1995 was a magical vintage for most northern California white wine producers. 1996's short growing season and overbearingly hot temperatures resulted in most 1996 Chardonnays tasting slightly less complex, but Marcassin's offerings are prodigious efforts in what is a very good rather than exceptional vintage for Chardonnay. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 97 –97
After tasting the 1997, I expected to be let down by the 1996 Chardonnay Marcassin. No such chance ... it is also an expressionistic, brilliant, multi-layered wine possessing everything one could desire in a Chardonnay. The 1996 is slightly more powerful (14.7% alcohol), and in addition to high glycerin, it has extraordinarily high extract, with its liquid minerality character also prominent. There is slightly more of a honeyed nature to the fruit, yet this is a powerful wine that juxtaposes intensity with finesse and complexity. There is superb definition and phenomenal flavor purity. It should drink well for 5-10 years. Owners Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer continue to reside at the top of a short list of producers making the world's most prodigious, complex wines. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 99 –99
The just released 1996 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard boasts record setting levels of complexity, richness, individuality, and ... let's not forget joy. I have had it over several meals with the finest wines I could find for comparison (i.e., the Batard-Montrachets of Michel Niellon, Montrachets of Amiot-Bonfils, and Corton-Charlemagnes and Meursault-Perrieres of Coche-Dury) among the finest white Burgundy producers. At each tasting, the 1996 Marcassin Vineyard Chardonnay dominated the other wines in terms of expression, individuality, richness, purity, symmetry, and pleasure ... sort of like Mohammed Ali in his prime sparring with an assortment of middleweight contenders. It is an extraordinary wine that somehow manages to juxtapose complexity, elegance, and finesse with unbridled power, richness, and layers of flavor. The most frightening aspect is how Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer produce wines such as this year in and year out. It is a matter of well-placed hillside vineyards, harvesting exceptionally ripe fruit, letting the wine express itself in barrel and bottle without stripping or altering its inherent personality by technological razzle-dazzle manipulations. The 1996 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard should drink well for at least a decade. Bravo! This wine is available through the winery's mailing list, although some preferred Napa Valley restaurants, particularly the French Laundry, and in New York (Daniel and La Bernadin), seem to receive noteworthy allocations. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 100 –100
The 1996 comes across like a mature yet great Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne. The first vintage bottled from their original plantings of ten acres, this was the finest showing yet of the 1996. A potent nose of white corn, citrus butter and crushed rocks is followed by a full-bodied, powerful wine displaying wonderful delineation, fresh acidity, hints of orange and tangerine rind as well as wet gravel, and a stony, citrusy, buttery component. Remarkably, the wine still possesses a surprisingly light gold color with a greenish hue. This magnificent Chardonnay is one of the most profound efforts ever made from this varietal in California. Even more shocking, it should have 10-20 more years of life remaining if kept in a cold cellar. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 96 –96
The 2014 Chardonnay from the Marcassin Vineyard could be described as a letdown after two perfect wines, but of course, it’s not. It shares the great intensity of its predecessors, doesn’t seem to have quite the complexity and profound depth of either the 2012 or 2013, but since it’s younger, that may appear with more time in the bottle. Certainly the tangerine oil, caramelized citrus, honeysuckle and lemon blossom are all present in this wine of impressive fruit purity, equilibrium and length. Like the 2013 and 2012, it has at least 10-15 years of aging potential.
Rating: 100 –100
Utterly perfect, the 2008 Chardonnay Marcassin Estate is a dead-ringer for the 2007, but slightly richer and longer, as hard as that may be to believe. This extraordinary effort is unquestionably the “Chardonnay of the Vintage.” In fact, it may be the “Chardonnay of the Decade.” Brioche, nectarine, citrus and orange blossom notes intermixed with a liqueur of rocks, great acid, phenomenal concentration and staggering length result in a sublime Chardonnay that should drink well for 15+ years. (Not yet released) It was great to see Helen Turley finally make the cover of the Wine Spectator in 2010 after twenty years of this brilliant, artisanal operation being largely ignored. Readers will not find anyone more knowledgeable about viticulture and winemaking than the husband and wife team of Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer. While much of the article’s focus is on how many top wineries Helen Turley once served as a consultant, their long term goal was always to be completely independent of any consulting jobs, focusing solely on their own vineyard. As I reported last year, there will no longer be any Pinot Noir from the Blue Slide Vineyard or Chardonnay from the Three Sisters Vineyard (both sites owned by the well-known Martinelli family in the Russian River). However, there will be more Marcassin Estate wines as they now have 20 acres under vine on the steep hillsides of the Sonoma Coast. Both Turley and Wetlaufer were among the first in California to try and emulate the full malolactic style found in most French white Burgundies. There is plenty of history to support what they are trying to accomplish. Wetlaufer, who was the wine buyer at the All Seasons Market in Calistoga, was a huge Burgundy fan at the time, and he formed a Burgundy tasting group with many other well-known winemakers. That gave him the opportunity to analyze both white and red Burgundies, and to get a detailed perspective of Burgundy. It is ironic that the Marcassin Chardonnays probably eclipse 98% of white Burgundies made today for their complexity and aging potential. While I have never been a believer in the ageworthiness of California Chardonnay vis a vis white Burgundy, all I have to do is go back and open a 1996 or 1995 Marcassin Chardonnay, which was then made from purchased fruit, to recognize how amazingly well their wines age. Readers have two spectacular vintages from Marcassin coming on the market – the 2007 and 2008 Chardonnays as well as the 2007 and 2006 Pinot Noirs. The 2008 Chardonnays are remarkable as well. There was no frost damage at the Marcassin estate because of the vineyard’s lofty elevation. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633
Rating: 90 –90
There will be magnums as well as 750 ml bottles produced of the 1995 Marcassin Vineyard Chardonnay. There is only one barrel of the wine (roughly 25 cases of each). Allocation by lottery may resolve the distribution problem for those customers on the winery's mailing list. When I tasted the 1995 Marcassin Vineyard Chardonnay, the first thought that went through my head was the same as when I tasted the 1982 Comte Lafon Montrachet. It is a backward wine with a liquid stony, mineral essence to its character. On the palate, the honey and citrus character of the Chardonnay grape begins to be apparent, but the wine's unmistakable liquid minerality is the hallmark of this formidably endowed, full-bodied Chardonnay. Relatively high acidity buttresses all the components, so it will be fascinating to follow this wine's evolution. It needs 2-3 years of cellaring, after which it will evolve for 10-15 more years. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633