Critic ratings
vinous
2015
Rating:
95
–95
The 2015 Montrachet Grand Cru is showing a little reduction on the nose but there is real power and intensity here, plus wonderful delineation as it responds and opens in the glass. The palate is balanced with a viscous opening and hints of white chocolate and almond, but is initially just a little blowsy. Crucially, this Montrachet only comes into its own after an hour in the glass, finally rediscovering its tension and race. From the lowly score I gave it blind, it fully deserves a much more generous score after the tasting. Give this a serious decant if possible, or better still, cellar it for several more years. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. (DIAM 30 closure)
vinous
2021
Rating:
90
–92
The 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru, which amounts to 200 liters instead of the usual two barrels, has a very intense, concentrated bouquet with scents of popcorn and hazelnut complementing the citrus fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded texture, hints of apricot and white peach, smooth and seductive, precise through to the finish. Very fine and long, though is it as good as the Chassagne Caillerets?
robert_parker
2022
Rating:
96
–96
There's a single 250-liter barrel of Colin's 2022 Montrachet Grand Cru, refurbished with a mixture of new and used staves to avoid entirely new oak. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, peach and confit citrus mingled with white flowers, mint and pastry, it's full-bodied, satiny and seamless, with a layered, multidimensional core of fruit and a long, mineral finish.
robert_parker
2021
Rating:
94
–96
The 2021 Montrachet Grand Cru has turned out brilliantly, exhibiting aromas of citrus oil, fresh mint, peach, buttery pastry and white flowers, followed by a full-bodied, deep and satiny palate with a textural attack that segues into a concentrated, layered, tensile mid-palate, concluding with a long, resonant finish. It's a notable success in an agronomically challenging vintage.
robert_parker
2017
Rating:
96
–96
Damien Colin produced the equivalent of two and a quarter barrels of the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru, so he supplemented a once used barrel with a specially ordered one and a quarter barrel for its élevage. Unfurling in the glass with notes of citrus oil, warm bread, green pear, nutmeg and white flowers, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a textural attack, succulent acids, superb concentration and a long, penetrating finish. While this is a little shut down after its recent bottling, this will be quite an extroverted, expressive vintage of Colin's Montrachet.
robert_parker
2019
Rating:
94
–96
The 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru is also very promising, unwinding in the glass with a reserved nose of orchard fruit, nutmeg, freshly baked bread, orange oil and spices. Full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's layered and concentrated, with real texture and intensity. This is still on the lees in barrel, so it's not so advanced in its élevage as the other wines in the cellar, but it's full of promise.
robert_parker
2020
Rating:
95
–97
Vinified and matured, like the Bâtard, in two once-used barrels, Colin's 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls to reveal aromas of pear, confit citrus, honeycomb, white flowers, fresh mint and buttered popcorn. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's deep and multidimensional, with high concentration, racy acids and a long, saline finish. This should rival and perhaps surpass the terrific 2017 rendition.
robert_parker
2013
Rating:
97
–97
Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Montrachet Grand Cru has a beautiful bouquet, exquisite definition and focus and delivering the mineralité and complexity you expect from this famous vineyard. The palate is very well balanced with a subtle brioche note in the background, harmonious from the starting blocks with a sensual finish that fans out gloriously, delivering a very mineral, intense finish. It is just an awesome, life-affirming Montrachet that will mature over many, many years. It is "the business." Tasted May 2016.
robert_parker
2016
Rating:
95
–97
There are 170 liters instead of 600 liters of the 2016 Montrachet Grand Cru this year due to the frost, raised in a specially made barrel to the exact size just like the Bâtard-Montrachet. It has a deeper and more intense bouquet compared to the Bâtard-Montrachet, with touches of oyster shell, sea cave and freshly tilled earth early in the morning. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and tensile, poised with hints of orange zest and apricot toward the long finish. Stylistically it reminds me of a Ramonet. What a fabulous Montrachet...shame there is bugger all to go round.
robert_parker
2011
Rating:
97
–97
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 from Domaine Marc Colin is absolutely stunning! It has the most outgoing bouquet of the four Montrachets and the one that exudes breeding. There is life-affirming minerality here, outstanding detail and focus with scents of powdered chalk, flint and walnut. The palate is extremely well balanced, powerful, but as you would expect this early, tightly wound. The acidity is perfectly embroidered through this Montrachet and the finish is endowed with the brooding intensity of a Jimmy Page guitar riff. I would not go near this for the next decade, but it has enormous potential. Magnificent.
robert_parker
2003
Rating:
89
–90
Domaine Marc Colin’s 2003 Montrachet (white), produced from some of the oldest vines in that heralded vineyard, reveals a nose of sage, Italian parsley, assorted spices, and sappy minerals. Medium-bodied, suave, and filled with toasted mineral flavors, it is a long, supple wine with admirable depth. It should be drunk over the next 8-9 years.
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
robert_parker
1998
Rating:
93
–93
Colin's 1998 Montrachet (produced from 75- to 80-year-old vines) was harvested at 13.8% natural potential alcohol, and took seven months to ferment. Its nut-laden aromas give way to an intense, medium to full-bodied personality. Thickly textured, massively ripe, concentrated, and powerful, this roasted almond and mineral-flavored wine has extraordinary elegance and precision. The bottle tasted for this report had been opened and decanted for a few hours, yet appeared, fresh, youthful, and vibrant. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012+.
Pierre-Yves Colin stated that in 1998, "The oidium was infernal." His solution was to have his pickers sort the grape bunches as they were being picked. He defines the vintage as one of "full of promise, not a spontaneous one." He is convinced that they will age remarkably well, citing as evidence his experience that bottles opened for consumers who visited the estate tasted better two days after having been opened.
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 775-8185.
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
92
–92
The demure aromas of the 1999 Montrachet reveal only hints of minerals and flowers. It is medium-bodied, concentrated, and fresh. On the palate, pears, white flowers, spices, and apple can be discerned in its gorgeously refined, fresh, medium-bodied personality. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2011.
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 775-8185.
robert_parker
2000
Rating:
92
–92
Colin's 2000 Montrachet has an immensely appealing nose with buttery minerals, spices, and anise. Rich, generous, and medium-bodied, it coats the palate with concentrated waves of honeyed minerals. This lush, deep offering will be at its best if consumed between 2005 and 2012.
Importer: Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.
robert_parker
2001
Rating:
93
–93
From vines averaging 90-years of age, harvested at 14.7 degrees of natural potential alcohol (15.2, a new record, was achieved in 2002!), the pear and talcum-powder-scented 2001 Montrachet is, as seems to always be the case at this estate, in an ungiving, restrained state when tasted at this stage. It reveals huge depth and a powerful underlying minerality, portending a great future, yet gives the taster only a reluctant glimpse. Medium-bodied, concentrated, and refined, this is one of the few 2001s that will require (and repay) patience. Drink it between 2006 and 2016.
Pierre-Yves Colin, the young, energetic, bright, quality-conscious winemaker at this estate (his father, Marc, has been increasingly passing the reins to his sons) is justifiably enthusiastic about his 2001s. To him, as to many other honest Burgundians, the key to success in 2001 was controlling the yields early so that the grapes could achieve ripeness. “In 2001, if someone told you the date they harvested and their natural potential alcohol readings, you could tell them exactly what their yields were.” Colin’s yields (45 hectoliters per hectare) were below what he was allowed (including the PLC he could have harvested up to 55 hectoliters per hectare), but not immensely so.
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
robert_parker
2002
Rating:
93
–93
Harvested at 15.1% natural potential alcohol, the 2002 Montrachet fermented until April, 2003. Its talcum powder, mineral, and spice-scented nose leads to a core of immense concentration and depth. Light to medium-bodied, it reveals flavors of minerals, earth, and anise. Like all Marc Colin Montrachets in their youth, it appears to be holding back most of its qualities. This impressive wine should be drunk between 2008 and 2017.
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
robert_parker
1994
Rating:
89
–89
On January 17, 1997, a Belgian wine merchant held a comprehensive tasting of virtually every Montrachet at the Crillon Hotel in Paris. In addition to myself, Pierre Rovani was the only other American in attendance. The group was evenly split between members of the Belgian/French wine trade and private consumers. I was permitted to insert several top California Chardonnays in the tasting as "ringers." I provided the Peter Michael Chardonnay Pointe Rouge and the 1992 Mount Eden Estate Chardonnay. The tasting was impeccably organized, with the wines served blind in multiple flights. The results, although not unbelievable to me, were shocking to the group of serious Belgian and French wine tasters. Two of the French tasters were well-known winemakers. One of them who asked to remain anonymous proclaimed that in large part, the group of Montrachets was "a crime against France's patrimony." The group overwhelmingly rated the Peter Michael Chardonnay Pointe Rouge the top wine. Several tasters recognized that it was a California wine, but they still felt it was by far the most compelling, complex, and complete wine of the tasting. Second place went to another "ringer," the Domaine Valette Pouilly-Fuisse Le Clos de Monsieur Noly Vieilles Vignes, third place was awarded to the Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne another ringer, and fourth place went to yet another "ringer," the 1992 Mount Eden Estate Chardonnay. Of the Montrachets, three producers produced wines that certainly merited outstanding ratings. The fifth place wine was the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Montrachet; sixth place went to Domaine Lafon's Montrachet; and seventh place was the Domaine Ramonet Montrachet.
My numerical ratings generally mirrored the group's, with the Peter Michael Pointe Rouge receiving 97 points, Domaine Valette Pouilly-Fuisse Clos de Monsieur Noly Vieilles Vignes, 95; Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne, 96+; Mount Eden 1992 Chardonnay Estate, 94; DRC Montrachet, 93; Domaine Lafon Montrachet, 91+; Domaine Ramonet Montrachet, 90+; and most of the other Montrachets in the mid to upper-eighties, except for the appalling Montrachets from Delagrange-Bachelet and Rene Fleurot. A tropical fruit-scented, disjointed the acidity stuck out as it does in many New World Chardonnays Robert Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de la Guiche was another underachiever. Only four of the Montrachets possessed the depth and richness or the group's top three wines. Perhaps the most remarkable conclusion of this tasting was that none of the Montrachets displayed the complexity of the group's favorite three wines. And let's not hear any whining about these Montrachets needing 5-10, perhaps 15 years of cellaring. That may be the case in vintages such as 1986 or 1995, but the Montrachets are extremely forward, low acid wines except those that appeared to have had far too much acidity added. Too many of them were diluted, disjointed, flabby, and flat compared to the non-Montrachet wines of this tasting.
Much is being made in European wine writing circles about American versus European tastes, another phony non-issue by writers who would better serve their readership by doing more tasting than pontificating. While no single tasting can be considered definitive, this particular tasting did prove that a group of French and Belgian tasters exhibited a preference for California Chardonnays. C'est la vie.
4
robert_parker
1996
Rating:
96
–96
Produced from vines that are at least 70 years old, Colin's Montrachet is truly stunning. In 1996, two barrels (50 cases) were produced from the estate's 11 are (or .11 of a hectare) which translates to 40 hectoliters/hectare. The harvest came in at 13.9% natural potential alcohol, practically unheard of in Burgundy. Aromatically, this wine displays a deep richness, stones, and nuts. This superbly balanced and defined wine saturates the palate with almond paste, white flowers, minerals, honeysuckle blossoms, anise, and fresh, sweet butter flavors. Complex, concentrated, powerful, yet magnificently refined and elegant, this spectacular offering should age effortlessly. As the wine sat in the glass its flavor profile and aromas gathered more strength and expressiveness, and its body appeared to become even thicker. Readers who have never had the opportunity to try a bottle of this estate's Montrachets should know that the Colins are planning to uproot their parcel and replant in the not-so-distant future. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2015.
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 775-8185.
robert_parker
1997
Rating:
93
–93
The 1997 Montrachet displays a complex set of mineral, floral, and honeysuckle-laden aromatics. It is medium-to-full-bodied, offers intense minerals and spicy white fruits. Extremely concentrated as well as refined, this 1997 avoids the heaviness of many of its peers. It is detailed, intricate, flavorful, well-balanced, with an unbelievably long finish.
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 775-8185.
