Critic ratings
vinous
2012
Rating:
94
–94
Light gold. Poached pear, peach pit, honey and blond tobacco on the intensely perfumed, mineral-driven nose. Pliant, deeply concentrated pit fruit and melon flavors are complemented by succulent herbs and orange pith, with a stony element adding back-end cut. The mineral note reminds me a lot of Chablis, as strange as that may sound for an all-Marsanne wine. Suavely melds weight and vivacity, finishing with excellent clarity and length and a clinging note of candied orange.
vinous
2012
Rating:
93
–95
Vivid gold. Powerful mineral-laced peach nectar and pear aromas, with complicating notes of vanilla, honey and musky flowers. Round, fleshy and expansive, offering potent pit fruit and anise flavors and a bracing lick of lemon zest. Nicely blends richness and vivacity and finishes with impressive clarity and outstanding spicy persistence.
vinous
2006
Rating:
93
–93
Medium gold. Deep, pungent aromas of honey, apricot pit and brown sugar, with a subtle lemon rind quality adding vivacity. Rich and fleshy, with nervy acidity lifting the ripe pit fruit and poached pear flavors. Finishes with a jolt of anise. This is very complex.
vinous
2016
Rating:
95
–95
Vivid gold. Powerful, mineral-tinged Meyer lemon, nectarine and pear nectar scents show excellent clarity and complicating honey, fennel and smoky lees accents. Vibrant and expansive in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors along with suggestions of buttered toast and honeydew melon that build on the back half. Shows impressive energy and finishes silky and extremely long, featuring lingering floral and honey nuances.
vinous
2007
Rating:
94
–94
Pale greenish gold. Orange, pear, hazelnut, sweet butter, truffle and minerals on the nose, with a slow-building floral quality; like a serious Chassagne-Montrachet. Palate-staining sweet citrus and orchard fruit flavors are underscored by smoky minerals and talc. The minerality seems to gain power on the finish, which is strikingly pure, focused and persistent. More energetic than the l'Oree, and in need of more patience.
robert_parker
2020
Rating:
96
–96
This relatively warm, early-ripening terroir has yielded a wine that's full-bodied yet with an almost custard-like silky texture. Toasted grain, lemon custard, crushed stone, pear and melon notes mingle easily on the nose of Chapoutier's 2020 Ermitage le Méal Blanc. The long, zesty finish is marked by a slight hint of bitterness that seems to come into this parcellaire from time to time.
robert_parker
2019
Rating:
96
–96
The 2019 Ermitage le Méal Blanc was initially tasted and reviewed last year. While I retasted it, my impressions were essentially the same as last time (reproduced here for the sake of completeness): The 2019 Ermitage le Méal Blanc boasts remarkable complexity, ranging from hints of pencil shavings and crushed stones to a range of ripe, honeyed fruit (pear, melon, citrus) and then into slightly spicy-herbal, salty elements that bring celery seed and fennel to mind. It's medium to full-bodied, broad and mouth coating on the palate, yet retains a terrific sense of freshness that revolves around gentle citrus pith/zest and salted licorice on the lingering finish.
robert_parker
2019
Rating:
96
–96
The 2019 Ermitage le Méal Blanc boasts remarkable complexity, ranging from hints of pencil shavings and crushed stones to a range of ripe, honeyed fruit (pear, melon, citrus) and then into slightly spicy-herbal, salty elements that bring celery seed and fennel to mind. It's medium to full-bodied, broad and mouth coating on the palate, yet retains a terrific sense of freshness that revolves around gentle citrus pith/zest and salted licorice on the lingering finish.
robert_parker
2012
Rating:
98
–98
More honeyed and flamboyant, the 2012 Ermitage Le Meal Blanc dished out aromas and flavors of exotic spices, buttered citrus, licorice and serious minerality. Full-bodied, voluptuous, decadent and almost chewy-rich, it’s an incredible white that will also offer immense pleasure in its youth, yet be almost indestructible in the cellar.
This was an incredible tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his second hand man, Pierre-Henri Morel. Certainly one of the success stories in wine, which Robert Parker does a fabulous job of detailing in Issue 204, this estate goes from strength to strength in just about every appellation in the Rhone Valley. Looking specifically at Hermitage, Chapoutier owns a massive 64 acres, mostly on the famed Bessards lieu-dit, yet also with significant portions on Le Meal, L’Ermite and Les Greffieux, with smaller portions in the Beaume and Murets lieux-dits. From this he fashions five reds (Monier De La Sizeranne, Les Greffieux, Le Meal, Le Pavillon and L’Ermite) and four whites (Chante Alouette, Cuvee de l’Oree, Le Meal Blanc and L’Ermite Blanc), all of which are brilliant wines, with the best ranking up alongside the top wines in the world. In addition, his Saint Josephs (Les Granits and Le Clos) are some of the leading wines of the appellation (along with Guigal’s Vignes de l’Hospice and a few others), and his Cote Rotie La Mordoree, which comes from his 12 acres (split between the roughly defined Cote Blonde and Cote Brune regions), is always a classic example of the appellation. I was also able to taste through a full lineup of his Languedoc and Roussillon releases, all of which were impressive. I’ll review those wines in my 2014 coverage on those regions.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2012
Rating:
99
–99
A wine that seems to pack more and more quality with each vintage, the 2012 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is borderline perfection, and didn't lose a beat being served beside the de l’Orée and l'Ermite. Flamboyant, ripe, honeyed and decadent, with thrilling white currants, buttered citrus, orange blossom and licorice, it too is a massive wine that will have decades of life. Make no mistake though, it's gorgeous even today.
robert_parker
2011
Rating:
99
–99
The more flamboyant, California-styled 2011 Ermitage Le Meal Blanc is from a warmer site with a more southerly exposure. It offers up notes of wet rocks, tangerines, peaches and a striking scent reminiscent of the famous New Orleans dish, bananas Foster. I know that sounds weird, but that’s what it smelled like when I first put my nose in the glass. This exuberant, exotic, ostentatious white Hermitage may be controversial, but for me, it was over-the-top perfection.
In November of this year, Michel Chapoutier finally made the cover of The Wine Spectator. The accompanying article said essentially the same things I had written about over twenty years ago. More importantly, I am thrilled that Chapoutier received this attention because it has long been deserved. History will record that Michel Chapoutier is a revolutionary. He is also a highly emotional man whose infectious love of primitive art, historic books, classical music and, of course, terroir and winemaking are seemingly impossible to harness. Michel Chapoutier was among the first in France to embrace the radical biodynamic agricultural teachings, for which he was initially criticized, but is now praised. He was also the first to print all his labels in Braille, something that cynics considered to be a gimmick, but ask the National Association for the Blind what they think. Coming from a famous family, but moving in a direction unlike any of its previous members, Michel Chapoutier is self-taught. What he has accomplished over the last two decades or more is one of the great wine stories of the modern era. With all his outgoing, boisterous, machine-gun-speed prose that can sometimes sound shockingly cocky, and at other times reminiscent of the famous Lebanese poet Khalil Gibran, there is never a dull moment around Chapoutier., who makes comments such as “Filtering wine is like making love with a condom,” and “Acidifying wine is like putting a suit of armor on the vineyard’s terroir, vintage character and the cepage.” Don’t blame him if his brilliant intellect and shocking vocabulary put his visitors on the defensive. Michel Chapoutier has proven through his genius, the faith of his convictions and backbreaking attention to detail in his vineyards and in the winery that a once moribund negociant (yet with significant vineyard holdings) could become a beacon of inspiration and quality for the entire world. In short, every wine consumer in the world should admire his accomplishments. All of Chapoutier’s lower level 2010 whites and basic reds have long been sold out, so to keep the tasting somewhat limited during my visit, we focused on the more recently released 2010 white and red selections parcellaires and nearly all the 2011s. As for the 2010 selection parcellaire whites, they are spectacular. Le Pavillon, once called Rochefine and owned by Jaboulet-Verchere, consists of 10 acres of pure granite in the famed Les Bessards, which is considered by many to be the single greatest terroir of Hermitage. The Ermitage Le Pavillon, which is meant to age for 50+ years, is Michel Chapoutier’s legacy, and he is confident that history will support his belief in this extraordinary wine. Michel Chapoutier is not alone in believing the 2011s may resemble a more modern day version of 1991. That vintage was largely underrated by just about everybody (except yours truly) because all the accolades and hyperbole were largely bestowed on both 1989 and 1990 (deservedly), but in the Northern Rhone 1991 turned out to be a strikingly superb vintage for Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Cornas and Condrieu. In the Southern Rhone, the vintage was largely a disaster. Following is an overview of what to expect with the inexpensive 2011 whites and reds. Most of these wines do not have the weight, power or tannic structure of the 2010s, but they are by no means diluted or wimpish wines. They tend to be charming, fruit-forward and seductive, and thus may be preferred by consumers looking for immediate gratification. Although the first few wines reviewed are Southern Rhones, they need to be covered because they are in bottle, and I did not review them in issue 203. Along with several other producers, Michel Chapoutier has helped increase the world’s attention to the long-forgotten, microscopic appellation of St.-Peray. Chapoutier produces a bevy of St.-Perays under his own name as well as in partnership with two three-star chefs, Sophie Pic, of the Restaurant Pic in Valence (as well as several culinary branches in Paris and Lausanne, Switzerland), and Yannick Alleno, the brilliant chef at the Hotel Le Meurice’s in Paris. I did not review the two rose offerings from the Southern Rhone in issue 203, but both are excellent. Rose drinking season in the Mid-Atlantic and northeast regions is largely shut down until warm weather returns next spring. People in other, warmer climates of our country can still enjoy these wines. The red 2011 selections parcellaires are already fruit-forward and seductive. Readers should love them as they are much more evolved than the more structured, powerful, dense, tannic 2010s.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2011
Rating:
99
–99
In the same league and from one of the warmest terroirs on Hermitage hill, the 2011 Ermitage Le Meal Blanc is a massive effort that has overflowing amounts of tropical fruits, white flowers, creme brulee, buttered peaches, licorice and striking, liquid rock-like minerality. Full-bodied, voluptuous and awesome any way you look at it, it too can be enjoyed any time over the coming 3-4 decades.
This was an incredible tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his second hand man, Pierre-Henri Morel. Certainly one of the success stories in wine, which Robert Parker does a fabulous job of detailing in Issue 204, this estate goes from strength to strength in just about every appellation in the Rhone Valley. Looking specifically at Hermitage, Chapoutier owns a massive 64 acres, mostly on the famed Bessards lieu-dit, yet also with significant portions on Le Meal, L’Ermite and Les Greffieux, with smaller portions in the Beaume and Murets lieux-dits. From this he fashions five reds (Monier De La Sizeranne, Les Greffieux, Le Meal, Le Pavillon and L’Ermite) and four whites (Chante Alouette, Cuvee de l’Oree, Le Meal Blanc and L’Ermite Blanc), all of which are brilliant wines, with the best ranking up alongside the top wines in the world. In addition, his Saint Josephs (Les Granits and Le Clos) are some of the leading wines of the appellation (along with Guigal’s Vignes de l’Hospice and a few others), and his Cote Rotie La Mordoree, which comes from his 12 acres (split between the roughly defined Cote Blonde and Cote Brune regions), is always a classic example of the appellation. I was also able to taste through a full lineup of his Languedoc and Roussillon releases, all of which were impressive. I’ll review those wines in my 2014 coverage on those regions. Looking at the 2011 whites, these were all tasted by Robert Parker last year, but since I tasted through the lineup, I opted to include reviews here as well.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2010
Rating:
96
–98
The 2010 Ermitage Le Meal Blanc, which comes from a warmer site, displays more tropical fruit, with loads of red currants intermixed with mango, orange marmalade, and exotic Asian scents. Dense, full-bodied, intense and rich, this is the most voluptuous and opulent of the blockbuster selections parcellaires whites of 2010. It should drink well for 30-35 years.
(Not yet released)
As I have written many times, all of these wines are produced from rigidly cultivated, bio-dynamically managed vineyards. That has been the rule since Michel Chapoutier first took over this firm in the late 1980s. Now, with over 20 years of biodynamic viticulture under his belt, Chapoutier remains committed to this rather radical style of organic farming. He believes the effect is to reduce rot in damp, rainy vintages. Moreover, he has observed that after 10 to 15 years of biodynamic farming, the natural acids tend to be more vivid and the overall pH of the soils (as well as the wines) has dropped. Controversial, outspoken and brutally candid, Chapoutier, who suffers no fools, continues to admirably produce wines that are among the finest in the world and potentially the longest lived. Refusing to acidify, chaptalize, or touch the wines in any way, he clearly wants every wine to capture the very essence of its terroir and vintage personality. In this, he succeeds remarkably. No one has made more effort in resurrecting the once-forgotten backwater appellation of St.-Peray than Michel Chapoutier. Working in conjunction with the famed Michelin three-star restaurant family, the Pics, Chapoutier has produced a sensational 2010 Gamme Pic and Chapoutier St.-Peray, and the first single-vineyard St.-Peray, the 2010 Lieu-Dit Peyrolles St.-Peray, which is one of the greatest St.-Perays I have ever tasted. This appellation is all steep hillside vineyards planted in pure, decomposed granite soils, not dissimilar from Hermitage, but they are located on the other side of the Rhone, facing the city of Valence. The single-vineyard wines, or selections parcellaires, 2010 whites are absolutely amazing, with production levels ranging from 300 to 700 or 800 cases of each cuvee. These wines are for true connoisseurs, as they are expensive and meant for long, long evolutions, but they capture the essence of a vintage and terroir as well as any wines in the world. As for the selections parcellaires of 2010 reds, Chapoutier likes this vintage almost as much as 2009, but feels it is very different, emphasizing more acidity and minerality, whereas 2009 is a combination of pure power, concentration and great potential longevity. Michel Chapoutier considers the 2009s, which are all in bottle, to be among the greatest wines he has ever produced, equaling his finest wines of 2006, 2003, 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut year).
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2009
Rating:
98
–98
The 2009 Ermitage Le Meal Blanc (844 cases) offers up aromas and flavors of tomato confit, white peaches, honeysuckle, acacia flowers, licorice and anise. Deep, full-bodied and textured, with superb intensity as well as richness, it is the most exotic, tropical fruit-flavored Ermitage from Chapoutier in 2009. Enjoy it over the next 25-30 years.
As I have written many times, all of these wines are produced from rigidly cultivated, bio-dynamically managed vineyards. That has been the rule since Michel Chapoutier first took over this firm in the late 1980s. Now, with over 20 years of biodynamic viticulture under his belt, Chapoutier remains committed to this rather radical style of organic farming. He believes the effect is to reduce rot in damp, rainy vintages. Moreover, he has observed that after 10 to 15 years of biodynamic farming, the natural acids tend to be more vivid and the overall pH of the soils (as well as the wines) has dropped. Controversial, outspoken and brutally candid, Chapoutier, who suffers no fools, continues to admirably produce wines that are among the finest in the world and potentially the longest lived. Refusing to acidify, chaptalize, or touch the wines in any way, he clearly wants every wine to capture the very essence of its terroir and vintage personality. In this, he succeeds remarkably. No one has made more effort in resurrecting the once-forgotten backwater appellation of St.-Peray than Michel Chapoutier. Working in conjunction with the famed Michelin three-star restaurant family, the Pics, Chapoutier has produced a sensational 2010 Gamme Pic and Chapoutier St.-Peray, and the first single-vineyard St.-Peray, the 2010 Lieu-Dit Peyrolles St.-Peray, which is one of the greatest St.-Perays I have ever tasted. This appellation is all steep hillside vineyards planted in pure, decomposed granite soils, not dissimilar from Hermitage, but they are located on the other side of the Rhone, facing the city of Valence. The single-vineyard wines, or selections parcellaires, 2010 whites are absolutely amazing, with production levels ranging from 300 to 700 or 800 cases of each cuvee. These wines are for true connoisseurs, as they are expensive and meant for long, long evolutions, but they capture the essence of a vintage and terroir as well as any wines in the world. As for the selections parcellaires of 2010 reds, Chapoutier likes this vintage almost as much as 2009, but feels it is very different, emphasizing more acidity and minerality, whereas 2009 is a combination of pure power, concentration and great potential longevity. Michel Chapoutier considers the 2009s, which are all in bottle, to be among the greatest wines he has ever produced, equaling his finest wines of 2006, 2003, 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut year).
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2009
Rating:
98
–100
The 2009 Ermitage Le Meal Blanc exhibits more exotic tropical fruit (mango, orange blossom and nectarine) as well as white currants. Very intense with slightly lower acid than l’Oree, and a rounder, more corpulent, fleshy mouthfeel, this mind-boggling white Hermitage admirably demonstrates why, in the late eighteenth century, Thomas Jefferson wrote in his diary that white Hermitage was the greatest dry white wine made in France.
(Not yet released)
Other extraordinary efforts readers should be watching for include the 2009 Bila Haut Lesquerde, a Syrah dominated wine that I scored in the upper-90s. Equally as profound, but made from a completely different blend is the Bila Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages La Tour de France, which is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah. Both of these offerings are as remarkable as wine can be. From Australia, some wines to take note of include the Domaine Tournon 2009 Shiraz (or Syrah), an outstanding red sold at a fair price, and his single vineyard offerings the 2009 Shiraz Shays’ Flat and the 2009 Shiraz Landsborough, both extraordinary, mid-90 point Syrahs from Victoria. Also, readers should not forget his 2009 La Pleiade M45, a Syrah from the Cambrian soils of Heathcote. An Australian wine that flirts with perfection, which I had never tasted before, is the 2009 Shiraz One Shot from Beechworth, which is like a liqueur of blueberries and raspberries intermixed with graphite, tar and minerality. Other stunning offerings from Domaine Terlato and Chapoutier include the 2009 Shiraz Malakoff (rated 92-94) and the 2009 Shiraz L Block (rated 93-95+). Last, but not least, Michel Chapoutier has entered the Portuguese wine arena, producing two extraordinary wines from a 5-hectare parcel in the Douro. The 2009 Touriga Nacional (rated 94-96) comes from pure schist soils. It reveals incredible floral notes intermixed with sweet blueberry, black raspberry and cassis. As amazing as it is, it may be surpassed by the 2009 Touriga Nacional Pinteivera from Pinhao. It is undeniably the single greatest red Portuguese wine I have ever tasted. It, too, is from schist soils. Both of these wines are remarkable efforts from what may be the world’s leading, irreverent genius in winemaking and winemaking philosophy. And one more thing about the remarkable Michel Chapoutier, he now has property in Alsace, Domaine Schieferkopf. I tasted a 2009 Riesling (rated 89), 2009 Riesling Buehl (rated 93), and 2009 Riesling Fels (rated 94). All are very dry, crisp, medium to full-bodied Rieslings from the Andlau sector of northern Alsace. These remarkable whites come from schist soils and Chapoutier has again demonstrated his Midas touch with a completely different varietal.
Michel Chapoutier is firmly convinced that 2009 is the greatest vintage in his lifetime, which means 2009 surpasses 2003 (he made some great wines in that unusual vintage), 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut vintage after taking over the firm). These wines are all produced by bio-dynamically farmed vineyards. Moreover, there is no chaptalization or acidification, and as Michel Chapoutier says, he wants to capture each vintage in photographic detail. It is also important to recognize Chapoutier’s life philosophy, which, rather than being obsessed with correcting one’s faults, is dedicated to capitalizing on one’s strengths. For all of his charm and bravado, Chapoutier is the quintessential man of the soil, a true terroiriste dedicated to producing the most vivid, natural and unadulterated expressions of the many different vineyards with which he works. While 2009 was a perfect year of extraordinary concentration as well as freshness, the 2008 vintage experienced huge rainstorms on September 5, 6 and 8. However, Chapoutier argues that while his bio-dynamically farmed vineyards suffered from some dilution, they had no sanitary problems like many other estates endured. Certainly his 2008s appear to be among the strongest efforts in a disappointing vintage in the Northern Rhone. One expects Chapoutier to excel with his four Hermitage vineyards (Le Pavillon, l’Ermite, Le Meal and Les Greffieux). Tasting through the 2009s reinforces the belief that this is one of the all-time great vintages for the entire Northern Rhone Valley. It couldn’t happen at a better time. While certain 2003s are great, there really hasn’t been an overall consistently profound vintage in the Northern Rhone since 1990. Connoisseurs should be stocking up on the single vineyard offerings, both white and red, which are spectacular. Michel Chapoutier makes a bevy of other wines that merit a few notes because they are so good. Even though they are not from my areas of responsibilities, I thought I would mention a few that stood out when I tasted with him. Like an itinerant genius, Chapoutier has projects in Australia, Portugal and southern France. I and my colleague David Schildknecht have written about his exquisite offerings from the Cotes du Roussillon under the label Domaine de Bila Haut, and his partnership with the Laughton family for his Agly Brothers Cotes du Roussillon rouge. These wines all merit attention from consumers.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2008
Rating:
92
–94
This is simpler on the nose than the de l’Oree Blanc with subtle touches of pineapple, honey, lemon zest and yellow flowers. There is a bitter, almond entry; sharp acidity, oxidative in the middle with a waxy, lanolin-tinged finish. Good depth of flavour and that nose gains in complexity with aeration. This has style and class. Tasted April 2009.
robert_parker
2008
Rating:
95
–95
There are 315 cases of the 2008 Ermitage Le Meal Blanc. Caramelized apricot, honeyed orange, white currant and quince notes intermixed with a liqueur of rocks characteristic are found in this dense, full-bodied, ripe, atypically powerful, rich wine.
Other extraordinary efforts readers should be watching for include the 2009 Bila Haut Lesquerde, a Syrah dominated wine that I scored in the upper-90s. Equally as profound, but made from a completely different blend is the Bila Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages La Tour de France, which is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah. Both of these offerings are as remarkable as wine can be. From Australia, some wines to take note of include the Domaine Tournon 2009 Shiraz (or Syrah), an outstanding red sold at a fair price, and his single vineyard offerings the 2009 Shiraz Shays’ Flat and the 2009 Shiraz Landsborough, both extraordinary, mid-90 point Syrahs from Victoria. Also, readers should not forget his 2009 La Pleiade M45, a Syrah from the Cambrian soils of Heathcote. An Australian wine that flirts with perfection, which I had never tasted before, is the 2009 Shiraz One Shot from Beechworth, which is like a liqueur of blueberries and raspberries intermixed with graphite, tar and minerality. Other stunning offerings from Domaine Terlato and Chapoutier include the 2009 Shiraz Malakoff (rated 92-94) and the 2009 Shiraz L Block (rated 93-95+). Last, but not least, Michel Chapoutier has entered the Portuguese wine arena, producing two extraordinary wines from a 5-hectare parcel in the Douro. The 2009 Touriga Nacional (rated 94-96) comes from pure schist soils. It reveals incredible floral notes intermixed with sweet blueberry, black raspberry and cassis. As amazing as it is, it may be surpassed by the 2009 Touriga Nacional Pinteivera from Pinhao. It is undeniably the single greatest red Portuguese wine I have ever tasted. It, too, is from schist soils. Both of these wines are remarkable efforts from what may be the world’s leading, irreverent genius in winemaking and winemaking philosophy. And one more thing about the remarkable Michel Chapoutier, he now has property in Alsace, Domaine Schieferkopf. I tasted a 2009 Riesling (rated 89), 2009 Riesling Buehl (rated 93), and 2009 Riesling Fels (rated 94). All are very dry, crisp, medium to full-bodied Rieslings from the Andlau sector of northern Alsace. These remarkable whites come from schist soils and Chapoutier has again demonstrated his Midas touch with a completely different varietal.
Michel Chapoutier is firmly convinced that 2009 is the greatest vintage in his lifetime, which means 2009 surpasses 2003 (he made some great wines in that unusual vintage), 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut vintage after taking over the firm). These wines are all produced by bio-dynamically farmed vineyards. Moreover, there is no chaptalization or acidification, and as Michel Chapoutier says, he wants to capture each vintage in photographic detail. It is also important to recognize Chapoutier’s life philosophy, which, rather than being obsessed with correcting one’s faults, is dedicated to capitalizing on one’s strengths. For all of his charm and bravado, Chapoutier is the quintessential man of the soil, a true terroiriste dedicated to producing the most vivid, natural and unadulterated expressions of the many different vineyards with which he works. While 2009 was a perfect year of extraordinary concentration as well as freshness, the 2008 vintage experienced huge rainstorms on September 5, 6 and 8. However, Chapoutier argues that while his bio-dynamically farmed vineyards suffered from some dilution, they had no sanitary problems like many other estates endured. Certainly his 2008s appear to be among the strongest efforts in a disappointing vintage in the Northern Rhone. One expects Chapoutier to excel with his four Hermitage vineyards (Le Pavillon, l’Ermite, Le Meal and Les Greffieux). Tasting through the 2009s reinforces the belief that this is one of the all-time great vintages for the entire Northern Rhone Valley. It couldn’t happen at a better time. While certain 2003s are great, there really hasn’t been an overall consistently profound vintage in the Northern Rhone since 1990. Connoisseurs should be stocking up on the single vineyard offerings, both white and red, which are spectacular. Michel Chapoutier makes a bevy of other wines that merit a few notes because they are so good. Even though they are not from my areas of responsibilities, I thought I would mention a few that stood out when I tasted with him. Like an itinerant genius, Chapoutier has projects in Australia, Portugal and southern France. I and my colleague David Schildknecht have written about his exquisite offerings from the Cotes du Roussillon under the label Domaine de Bila Haut, and his partnership with the Laughton family for his Agly Brothers Cotes du Roussillon rouge. These wines all merit attention from consumers.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2007
Rating:
90
–92
A slightly deeper colour than the de L-Oree but the nose lacks the same degree of delineation. Scents of acacia, honeysuckle and a touch of dried orange peel. The palate is more neutral than the de L-Oree, more viscous and honeyed with a stoic, dry finish. Very backward and giving little away at the moment. Tasted March 2008.
robert_parker
2007
Rating:
98
–100
The fattest, most exuberant cuvee, with off the charts concentration and density (almost overbearing in its intensity, but the acids are there), is the 2007 Ermitage Le Meal blanc. An extraordinary expression of a single vineyard white Hermitage, this is an elixir with shocking levels of concentration. It goes almost beyond what dry wine is, and that’s what makes it so special.
(Not yet released)
While Michel Chapoutier produces some of the world’s greatest wines from single parcels of old vines spread throughout the northern and southern Rhone (see my ecstatic reviews of his 2007 and 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179), he also has an impressive portfolio of value-priced wines that are often over-looked when this impressive producer is discussed. Following are some top-notch picks that all sell for exceptionally fair prices. Chapoutier has not achieved as great as success in Cornas as he has in the other northern Rhone appellations, although his Cornas wines get better with each vintage. There are four extraordinary single vineyard white wines, all of which are among the greatest dry white wines of the world. While all of them can be drunk young, they are meant for extended cellaring. Made from very small yields, they represent the essence of a varietal as well as a vineyard site. As the following notes demonstrate, 2006 was one of the greatest vintages for white wines at Chapoutier. The single vineyard selection parcellaire red wines range in production from 500 to nearly 1,000 cases. 2007 is a very good vintage for these selections, but 2006 has an edge. It is reminiscent of 1996 because of the wines’ freshness and acid levels, but Chapoutier’s 2006s are even more concentrated than his 1996s. Chapoutier’s four 2006 cuvees of single vineyard Hermitage are exquisite. Most of the yields were between 10 and 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines are extravagantly rich. The 2006 and 2007 luxury cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape Croix des Bois and Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac were reviewed in issue #179. They are all astounding wines, especially in 2007
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2006
Rating:
97
–97
The medium-gold colored 2006 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is one of the deeper-colored wines in the lineup. It offers a full-bodied, low acid and unctuously textured profile to go with notes of browned butter, celery seed, caramelized golden fruits and almond paste. Slightly reserved and reticent, yet still a hedonistic bomb, with sensational concentration and mid-palate density, give it a few more years and enjoy bottles through 2036.
robert_parker
2006
Rating:
98
–98
The warmest terroir for the white Ermitage cuvees is Le Meal, an upper mid-slope terroir with a great exposition.The multi-dimensional 2006 Ermitage Le Meal blanc has mouthsearing levels of acidity as well as phenomenal intensity, compelling richness, and a full-bodied power. No matter how many times I taste these wines, they are shockingly profound and are to be admired, as one of America’s first wine lovers, Thomas Jefferson, said when he called them “the greatest white wines of France.”
With twenty vintages under his belt, Michel Chapoutier and his impressive winemaking staff go from strength to strength. These are among the world’s greatest wines, especially the single vineyard wines, many of which will last 50 or more years. Chapoutier thinks 2006 is one of the very finest vintages in the northern Rhone for white wines (and I don’t see any reason to disagree). The naturally high acidity and a summer season with no brutal heat waves allowed the wines to maintain their acidity while at the same time gaining flavor intensity. I have always had the feeling that despite his prodigious ability to make profound red wines, Michel Chapoutier gets a greater thrill from his white wine portfolio than from his impressive reds. . The single vineyard wines from Chapoutier are wines of super concentration, and are made from what are historically tiny yields. Along with Chaves’ white Hermitage and a handful of other Rhone whites, these are potentially the longest-lived and most profound whites being produced there. From the granite hillsides of St.-Joseph, Michel Chapoutier makes by far the appellation’s finest white, and one might argue, red as well.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2006
Rating:
99
–99
Easily the most exuberant and over the top of the three Ermitage Blanc cuvees, the 2006 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is still light gold in color and delivers a pedal-to-the-metal style in its honeysuckle, orange blossom, caramelized stone fruits, celery seed and even a hint of garlic. Deep, full-bodied, layered and seamless on the palate, it’s another wine that’s drinking at point today, yet will keep for another 2-3 decades.
robert_parker
2006
Rating:
99
–99
From a warmer micro-climate, the 2006 Ermitage Le Meal blanc boasts extraordinarily intense fruit, glycerin, and tactile impression. Stones, cherries, red currants, quince, and honeyed citrus are all present in this colossal wine that is unctuously textured, very full-bodied, and super-ripe and long. It reveals less noticeable acidity than l’Oree or l’Ermite, and, like Les Granits, it is a wine that can be drunk early, but it should last for 25-30 years.
While Michel Chapoutier produces some of the world’s greatest wines from single parcels of old vines spread throughout the northern and southern Rhone (see my ecstatic reviews of his 2007 and 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179), he also has an impressive portfolio of value-priced wines that are often over-looked when this impressive producer is discussed. Following are some top-notch picks that all sell for exceptionally fair prices. Chapoutier has not achieved as great as success in Cornas as he has in the other northern Rhone appellations, although his Cornas wines get better with each vintage. There are four extraordinary single vineyard white wines, all of which are among the greatest dry white wines of the world. While all of them can be drunk young, they are meant for extended cellaring. Made from very small yields, they represent the essence of a varietal as well as a vineyard site. As the following notes demonstrate, 2006 was one of the greatest vintages for white wines at Chapoutier. The single vineyard selection parcellaire red wines range in production from 500 to nearly 1,000 cases. 2007 is a very good vintage for these selections, but 2006 has an edge. It is reminiscent of 1996 because of the wines’ freshness and acid levels, but Chapoutier’s 2006s are even more concentrated than his 1996s. Chapoutier’s four 2006 cuvees of single vineyard Hermitage are exquisite. Most of the yields were between 10 and 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines are extravagantly rich. The 2006 and 2007 luxury cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape Croix des Bois and Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac were reviewed in issue #179. They are all astounding wines, especially in 2007
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2005
Rating:
98
–100
The most flamboyant of these 100% old-vine Marsanne cuvees of Ermitage is the 2005 Ermitage Le Meal blanc. In-your-face honey along with marmalade, citrus oil, white flowers, and sweet peach are flamboyant, even ostentatious. Decadent, luxuriously rich, with huge body, amazing viscosity and richness, this enormous dry white has an underpinning of acidity and tannin, and alcohol just short of 16% (remarkably well-hidden beneath a cascade of glycerin, fruit, and extract). Just amazing! Drink it in its first 5 years of life, or hold it for 30+ years.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2005
Rating:
96
–96
The warmest terroir for the white Ermitage cuvees is Le Meal, an upper mid-slope terroir with a great exposition.The most flamboyant of these wines, the 2005 Ermitage Le Meal blanc, exhibits notes of buttered citrus, copious tropical fruit, crushed rocks, white currants, and an amazing amount of honeysuckle allied with good acidity and enormous body.
With twenty vintages under his belt, Michel Chapoutier and his impressive winemaking staff go from strength to strength. These are among the world’s greatest wines, especially the single vineyard wines, many of which will last 50 or more years. Chapoutier thinks 2006 is one of the very finest vintages in the northern Rhone for white wines (and I don’t see any reason to disagree). The naturally high acidity and a summer season with no brutal heat waves allowed the wines to maintain their acidity while at the same time gaining flavor intensity. I have always had the feeling that despite his prodigious ability to make profound red wines, Michel Chapoutier gets a greater thrill from his white wine portfolio than from his impressive reds. . The single vineyard wines from Chapoutier are wines of super concentration, and are made from what are historically tiny yields. Along with Chaves’ white Hermitage and a handful of other Rhone whites, these are potentially the longest-lived and most profound whites being produced there. From the granite hillsides of St.-Joseph, Michel Chapoutier makes by far the appellation’s finest white, and one might argue, red as well.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2005
Rating:
96
–96
More over the top and decadent than the Cuvee de l’Orée, the 2005 Ermitage le Meal Blanc has overflowing notes of celery seed, sautéed peaches, honeycomb and underlying minerality that literally come soaring from the glass. Full-bodied, thick, unctuous and hedonistic to the max, it lacks a touch of the precision found in the Cuvee de l’Orée, yet makes up for it in sheer hedonistic pleasure and exuberance. It has the concentration to continue drinking nicely for another two decades or more.
robert_parker
2005
Rating:
94
–94
A similar colour to the l'Oree. The nose is quite intense, more expressive with scents of granite, minerals, a touch of cut grass and vegetal (Michel himself describes it as celery.) A very cohesive palate, harmonious and beautifully balanced. There is a nice prickle on the palate with a slightly more unctuous texture than the other Ermitages. Very long length. This has great potential. Tasted October 2006.
Drinking 2008-2020
robert_parker
2004
Rating:
100
–100
The 2004 Ermitage Le Meal blanc (266 cases) is total perfection in the bottle. Of course, this is supposedly the vineyard that so impressed Thomas Jefferson when he visited Hermitage in the late 1700s. Boasting an amazing concentrated essence of licorice, minerals, acacia flowers, and buttery honey, the wine is viscous, super-thick, rich, and mind-blowingly intense. Having just had an utterly perfect bottle of DRC 1973 Montrachet, I couldn’t help but think that this wine may well be even younger at a similar age.
Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2004
Rating:
98
–100
The Chapoutier single vineyard whites for 2004 all possess 15% alcohol and are not far off the 2003s but they possess completely different aromatic and flavor profiles.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2003
Rating:
98
–100
The 2003 Ermitage Le Meal blanc may be the finest dry white I have ever tasted. Providing a prodigious tasting experience, it is filled with honeyed citrus, an unctuous stoniness to the fruit character, amazing body, and abundant freshness, precision, and length (the finish lasts nearly 90 seconds). A legend in the making, it is an incredible effort. This white Hermitage cuvee is off the charts. It tips the scales between 14.5-16.1% alcohol, and is a candidate for perfection. This white will be bottled without fining or filtration. As I have said so many times over the last 15 years, the top Chapoutier wines are meant for very long term drinking, and are not designed for immediate gratification. Everything Chapoutier is doing, from his bio-dynamically farmed vineyard to tiny yields, extended fermentations, indigenous yeasts, and no fining or filtration, is done to produce the essence of a vineyard and a vintage. His track record since 1989 and 1990 admirably proves that these are indeed remarkable wines made by a young genius who refuses to compromise. Michel Chapoutier has been misunderstood by some of his peers, and there is a lot of jealousy when someone this young is so incredibly talented, but it is an irrefutable fact that these are wines of singular greatness as well as longevity.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2001
Rating:
92
–95
The 2001 Ermitage Le Meal is more delineated, smoky, and citrusy, with less fat and unctuosity than the 2000. Nevertheless, it is a big, thickly-textured effort with huge notes of ripe honeysuckle, pear, and peach. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2020.
These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff.
Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2000
Rating:
95
–97
A lovely nose of candle wax, banana skin, pineapple and minerals. Very pure with wonderful delineation. The palate has moderate acidity, quite waxy with a touch of wet wool (like a Chenin Blanc.) Honey and lanoline take over towards the finish. Very intellectual, a wine you do not want to spit out. Stunning. Tasted May 2006.
robert_parker
2000
Rating:
97
–97
From the renowned vineyard of Le Meal (more famous for its reds than whites), the stunning 2000 Ermitage Le Meal represents a singular expression of white Hermitage. Offering up honeysuckle characteristics, gobs of fruit and glycerin, and more fat than the Cuvee de l’Oree, it is huge in the mouth, very buttery, and is a total hedonistic turn-on. I suspect additional nuances will develop as it ages. It will provide an enormous mouthful of wine over the next 4-5 years, and should keep for 40-50 years.
These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff.
Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2000
Rating:
96
–100
The amazing 2000 Ermitage Le Meal possesses huge levels of glycerin, intensity, and concentration, the likes of which I have never before tasted in a dry white Hermitage. It is hard to say where this wine is going, or how long it will take to get there, but this should be a riveting example for true connoisseurs. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2060+? Along with Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier is producing the finest expressions of white Hermitage. His single vineyard cuvees are to die for if you like these eccentric, idiosyncratic, mammoth dry whites.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
94
–96
The terrific 1999 Ermitage Le Meal blanc exhibits prodigious concentration, a viscous texture, notes of fino sherry, roasted nuts, peaches, and minerals. The crisp finish contains surprisingly good acidity in spite of its huge size and exhilarating concentration and purity. It will be almost immortal, lasting for 30-50 years. Again, it should be drunk within its first 5 years, or ignored until age 10.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
95
–95
Chapoutier's brilliant 1999 Ermitage Le Meal is essentially a liqueur of white Hermitage. Notes of pear liqueur intertwined with fino sherry, peaches, minerals, nuts, and licorice are offered in an amazingly concentrated, super-extracted style that manages to be delicate as well as precise. This is a 40-50 year dry white, that will undoubtedly close down in 3-4 years and re-emerge a decade later. Along with Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier is producing the finest expressions of white Hermitage. His single vineyard cuvees are to die for if you like these eccentric, idiosyncratic, mammoth dry whites.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
robert_parker
1998
Rating:
99
–100
Tasting the 1998 Hermitage Le Meal is cause for celebration. It is a powerful, slightly nuanced as well as unctuously-textured example, yet it still manages to avoid heaviness. The wine possesses extraordinarily ripe, buttery, honeyed fruit with a liquified minerality intertwined with power, richness, and fabulous purity. Despite the fact that this wine is barrel-fermented and aged in 100% new French oak, it is so concentrated that the wood is barely discernible. Look for the Hermitage Le Meal to last three decades or more. This is a white wine of legendary proportions.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
vinous
2011
Rating:
94
–94
Vivid gold. Heady orchard and pit fruit aromas are complicated by anise, buttered toast and iodine, with a sexy floral nuance emerging with aeration. Fleshy and deeply pitched, offering wonderfully concentrated pear, nectarine and melon flavors and a zesty jolt of orange pith on the back half. Closes with superb energy and a very persistent honeydew note. I'd love to try this superb wine alongside some heavy-hitters from the Cote d'Or.
vinous
2011
Rating:
92
–94
Bright gold. Mineral-accented peach, pear and Meyer lemon aromas are deepened by notes of toasty lees and vanilla. Juicy citrus, quince and peach pit flavors give way to riper melon with air but show excellent nerve. Really clings to the palate, finishing broad, bright and impressively long. Rich and energetic.
vinous
2013
Rating:
94
–94
Pale gold. Vibrant, mineral-accented citrus and orchard fruit aromas, along with suggestions of white flowers, iodine and smoky minerals. Stains the palate with fresh orange, pear and nectarine flavors that are lifted and given bite by a spicy gingery nuance. Concentrated and sharply focused, showing outstanding clarity and persistent mineral and floral notes on the finish.
vinous
2013
Rating:
94
–96
Yellow-gold. Smoke- and mineral-tinged citrus and orchard fruit aromas start off spicy and reductive, with a sexy floral element emerging slowly; smells a lot like a wine from Coche-Dury. Sappy, palate-staining pear and tangerine flavors reach every corner of the mouth and are complicated by notes of fennel, iodine and honeysuckle. Fleshes out and becomes spicier on the finish, which hangs on with outstanding tenacity and a lingering floral quality. I'd love to match this stunner up against some grand cru white Burgundies.
vinous
2014
Rating:
93
–93
Vivid yellow-gold. Ripe citrus and pit fruits on the nose, along with suggestions of honey, chamomile and musky flowers. Deeply concentrated but surprisingly lively as well, offering palate-coating tangerine, pear nectar, sweet butter and fennel flavors underscored and lifted by a vein of zesty minerality. Shows impressive clarity and powerful thrust on a very long, broad finish that echoes the pear and floral notes.
vinous
2014
Rating:
93
–95
Pale gold. Vibrant, minerally and sharply focused on the highly perfumed nose, displaying an array of ripe citrus and orchard fruit aromas and deeper fig and honey qualities. Sappy and incisive on the palate; a vibrant mineral quality gives lift to the flavors of bitter pear skin, tangerine and honeysuckle. Deftly melds power and finesse, the mineral and floral component dominating the very long, seamless finish.
vinous
2015
Rating:
96
–96
Lurid yellow-gold. Penetrating aromas of ripe, mineral-accented citrus and pit fruits are complicated by hints of chalky minerals, saffron and chamomile. Juicy, smoky and deeply concentrated but lithe on the palate, offering densely packed peach nectar, pear liqueur, Meyer lemon and buttered toast flavors that show superb drive and focus. The mineral note repeats emphatically on the incisive, smoke-laced finish, which lingers with outstanding persistence.
vinous
2015
Rating:
94
–96
Brilliant yellow. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes poached pear, nectarine, vanilla, iodine and candied ginger, and a smoky mineral quality builds as the wine stretches out. Sappy, seamless and densely packed, offering palate-staining orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by a spine of dusty minerality and a hint of orange pith. Hangs on impressively on the mineral-laced finish, leaving behind smoky lees, iodine and ripe citrus fruit notes.
vinous
2018
Rating:
96
–96
Shimmering gold. Powerful, mineral-accented poached pear and peach nectar scents, along with suggestions of honey, brown butter and pungent flowers. Weighty yet energetic on the palate, offering alluringly sweet orchard and pit fruit liqueur flavors that are given spine by a core of juicy acidity. Rich yet sharply delineated, showing excellent finishing clarity, velvety texture and strong, mineral-driven persistence.
robert_parker
2021
Rating:
95
–95
Kicking off with notes of toasted grain and honeyed citrus, the 2021 Ermitage le Méal Blanc has lots going on, adding exotic stone fruit and pineapple. It's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and ripe, then turns a bit austere on the dry, chalky finish. While it lacks the overall harmony and elegance of the De l'Oree this vintage, it's still pretty compelling stuff.
robert_parker
2012
Rating:
97
–97
Slightly more reserved now than on release, the 2012 Ermitage le Meal Blanc offers tons of honeyed minerality, caramelized peach, toasted bread and liquid rock-like aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, rich, vibrant and with terrific acidity, it's a sensational white that will have 3-4 decades of life.
robert_parker
2011
Rating:
99
–99
Surprisingly, I preferred the 2011 Ermitage le Meal Blanc over the 2012 on this occasion and it showed a more flamboyant, sexy style in its caramelized pineapple, tropical, honeyed and floral personality. Big, rich and decadent, with fabulous fruit intensity and length, this rock star flirts with perfection and will keep for another 3-4 decades.
robert_parker
2010
Rating:
100
–100
The 2010 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is pure perfection in a glass. One of the densest, most concentrated, decadent and thrilling whites I've tasted, it offers a sensational bouquet of crème caramel, caramelized peach, crushed rock and smoke. Unctuous and chewy on the palate, with awesome depth of fruit, it has thrilling purity, laser focus and a finish that just won't quit. White wine does not get any better and it will have an incredible 50+ years of longevity.
robert_parker
2009
Rating:
99
–99
From a warm site and a hot vintage, the 2009 Ermitage le Meal Blanc was harvested on the August 28, and aged in 100% new French oak. Flirting with perfection and a full-bore, exotic, almost over-the-top expression of Marsanne, it has less minerality than the 2010, yet more of everything else with boatloads of caramelized fruits, buttered citrus, white flowers, honey and crushed rocks all soaring from the glass. Rich, layered, exuberant, unctuous and exotic, with stunning freshness despite it's thickness and weight, drink this incredible white anytime over the coming 30-40 years.
robert_parker
2008
Rating:
95
–95
One of the coolest vintages in the decade, the 2008 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is a serious, full-bodied, ripe and textured beauty that has lively acidity in its honeyed fruits, buttered-citrus and caramel aromas and flavors. Defying the vintage stereotype and possessing ample ripeness and depth, it won't be as long-lived as some of the bigger, richer vintages, but will still drink beautifully for another 15-20 years.
robert_parker
2007
Rating:
99
–99
I was shocked by the 2007 Ermitage le Meal Blanc and from a vintage that yielded mostly forward, supple and approachable efforts, it has stunning concentration, density, depth and texture. Still light/medium gold in color, it offers classic crushed-rock-like minerality, licorice, charcoal and sautéed peach characteristics to go with a lively, fresh, yet full-bore and decadent profile on the palate. It has the concentration and purity to evolve for decades, but is mind-blowing stuff today.
robert_parker
2004
Rating:
97
–97
Showing some of the more mature notes found in the 2006, the medium-gold colored 2004 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is another incredibly concentrated, thick and unctuous effort that's overflowing with notes of browned butter, marzipan, honeyed gold fruits and smoked earth. Layered, full-bodied and with notable freshness and purity, it's drinking beautifully today but has another two-plus decades of evolution.
robert_parker
2001
Rating:
96
–96
The 2001 Ermitage le Meal Blanc continues to impress and I've had numerous bottles over the past couple of years and they've all shown beautifully. Honeyed and caramelized, with lots of white peach, mint, orange blossom and smoke, it's full-bodied, ripe and layered on the palate, with perfect balance between its layers of fruit and acidity. My notes finished with "beautiful wine."
robert_parker
2000
Rating:
98
–98
Bigger and richer than the '01, the sensational 2000 Ermitage le Meal Blanc knocks it out of the park with its buttered peach, wood smoke, orange liqueur, honey and hazelnut-driven bouquet. A wine that should make any Hermitage Blanc lover's knees weak, this full-bodied, voluptuous and concentrated effort has fabulous purity and a blockbuster finish. Totally hedonistic, it still has another 2-3 decades of longevity.
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
95
–95
A stunner that's showing some maturity is the 1999 Ermitage le Meal Blanc. Revealing classic wood smoke, tomato leaf, orchard fruits, browned-butter and crushed-rock aromatics, it's full-bodied, classically styled, balanced and yet brilliantly concentrated and decadent.
robert_parker
2014
Rating:
97
–97
Similar in style to the hedonistically-styled Cuvee de l’Orée (especially when compared to the structured, mineral-laced l’Ermite), the 2014 Ermitage le Méal Blanc (aged in 10% new demi-muids) offers layers of celery seed, brioche, caramelized pineapple and citrus oil on the nose. Thick, rich, voluptuous and full bodied with a massive finish, drink this sensational white anytime over the coming two to three decades.
robert_parker
2015
Rating:
100
–100
Another perfect wine is the 2015 Ermitage le Meal Blanc. The most decadent, unctuous and layered in the lineup, with to-die-for notes of white currants, toasted nuts, celery seed and licorice, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a huge mid-palate and a refreshing, pure, yet blockbuster finish that just won’t quit. If I had to pick a desert island white, this might be it.
robert_parker
2016
Rating:
94
–94
The 2016 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is all Marsanne and all power, with ample weight and richness on the full-bodied palate. Grilled melon and tangerine flavors are big, bold and round yet balanced by a hint of bitterness on the finish. It should drink well for two decades or more.
robert_parker
2017
Rating:
98
–98
The 2017 Ermitage le Meal Blanc starts with refined notes of crushed stone and pencil shavings that move into a whirlwind of lush fruit, ranging from pineapple through melon and pear. It's rich, almost custardy in texture, yet it's backed by mineral notes of crushed stone and delivers awesome freshness on the long finish. It's an exhilarating ride. 508 cases produced.
robert_parker
2018
Rating:
97
–99
Is le Méal the most complex and complete lieu-dit on Hermitage, when considering both red and white wines? The 2018 Ermitage le Méal Blanc certainly makes a case for the white, offering honeyed, complex notes of mixed citrus, pineapple, pear and melon, structural notes of crushed stone, ample weight and richness on the palate and a long, vibrant finish. Just terrific.
robert_parker
2013
Rating:
100
–100
Easily the finest vintage of this cuvee to date, the 2013 Ermitage le Meal Blanc doesn’t give an inch to the more heralded Cuvee de L’Orée or l’Ermite. Pure perfection in a glass, with awesome caramelized citrus, pineapple, crushed rock, toasted bread and buttered peach, it’s full-bodied, massive and concentrated on the palate, with incredible purity, richness and length. As with the other top whites here, it needs a year or two in the cellar and will have 2-3 decades of longevity.
robert_parker
2003
Rating:
98
–98
Like the concentrated essence of bee’s honey with resiny, flower, and mineral notes, the 2003 Ermitage Le Meal blanc is a huge, full-bodied, even tannic effort with amazing viscosity and thickness. This is a wine to drink young, or forget for two decades. To Chapoutier’s credit, he is making these wines for posterity, not for immediate gratification.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
1998
Rating:
96
–96
The 1998 Ermitage Le Meal blanc offers aromas and flavors of butterscotch and caramel in its full-bodied, thick, juicy personality. It possesses liquid minerality, but also reveals oak. This is an amazingly layered wine! Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
robert_parker
2002
Rating:
94
–94
Perhaps the most surprising thing is how spectacular the 2002 whites are from Michel Chapoutier. Because of space limitations, I am only listing the numerical score for this wine, which is evolved, but exceptional for such a challenging vintage. As I have said so many times over the last 15 years, the top Chapoutier wines are meant for very long term drinking, and are not designed for immediate gratification. Everything Chapoutier is doing, from his bio-dynamically farmed vineyard to tiny yields, extended fermentations, indigenous yeasts, and no fining or filtration, is done to produce the essence of a vineyard and a vintage. His track record since 1989 and 1990 admirably proves that these are indeed remarkable wines made by a young genius who refuses to compromise. Michel Chapoutier has been misunderstood by some of his peers, and there is a lot of jealousy when someone this young is so incredibly talented, but it is an irrefutable fact that these are wines of singular greatness as well as longevity.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
1997
Rating:
96
–100
In 1997, Michel Chapoutier introduced a luxury cuvee of white Hermitage called Le Meal. It displays, in addition to cherry notes, an orange Grand Marnier characteristic to its fruit. It is an immense, full-bodied, fabulously powerful and concentrated dry white with a steely finish. There are approximately 300 cases of this spectacular offering. Look for it to shut down in 3-4 years, and last for 3-4 decades. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
robert_parker
2023
Rating:
95
–95
The 2023 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc has turned out brilliantly, exemplifying the telluric force of its distinguished terroir. Wafting from the glass with aromas of exotic fruits, smoke, ripe orchard fruits and baked white fruits mingled with both a flinty touch and lovely reduction, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with racy acids and an impressively muscular, concentrated palate framed by gastronomic bitterness. The saline finish has controlled power that adds energy and a penetrating aftertaste. Originating from vines on the western part of the Hermitage hill, facing south and harvested in several batches, this wine demands time to integrate its élevage fully. It is poised to age gracefully over the next two decades.
james_suckling
2017
Rating:
95
–95
A beautifully rich and complex nose with lemons and limes, white and yellow peaches and a surge of spicy oak, roasted almonds and a flicker of reductive flint. The palate has seamless build and rich, deep-set, ripe-fruit flesh. Smooth, buttery and freshly cut at the finish. Drink or hold.
james_suckling
2019
Rating:
96
–96
Spectacularly complex nose of dried fruit (everything from pear to pineapple) with a whiff of smoke wafting through it. Very rich, but precisely contoured with a very impressive structure, the spiciness building towards the finish. Both succulent and refined at the fabulous, creamy finale. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.
james_suckling
2020
Rating:
97
–97
If you like wines with exotic fruit aromas here is a beautifully exotic white Hermitage that’s not a jot too rich, much less heavy. In spite of all the power and ripeness this has a zesty orange appeal throughout. A pure Marsanne grown on a very steep south-facing slope with old Rhone gravel soils with some loess on top. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.
james_suckling
2016
Rating:
94
–94
Seductive and creamy nose with baked lemons, orange rind, rusks, flower honey, green apples and fresh flowers. Full body with such an ample, round dimension to it. It’s expansive and extensive with controlled power. It’s flattering with so much volume and weight on the palate. Long finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.
james_suckling
2021
Rating:
100
–100
What an extraordinary interplay of smoky fresh pineapple and stony mineral character this super-concentrated but medium-bodied white Rhone has. The south and the north of wine (in the widest sense) meet in this singularity of the marsanne grape. Gigantic minerality in the totally focused and extremely long, pure finish. From a steep, south-facing slope. Enormous aging potential. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
james_suckling
2018
Rating:
97
–97
An expansive, lively, textured, driven and harmonious Ermitage. The nose exhibits notes of caramelized apples, wild herbs, preserved lemons and loads of exotic spices. It’s medium-bodied yet it has so much volume and dimension. The concentrated, flavorful core of spices and subtle fruit at the center expands harmoniously on the palate. A gentle structure brings plenty of finesse and delicacy, with a long, focused, dense finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.
james_suckling
2022
Rating:
98
–98
A harmonious yet bold white, full of character, texture and balance all at once. This showcases grilled peaches, dried lemon peel, warm spices and herbs plus some salt. Full-bodied, it has incredible drive, verve and energy but remains focused. Restrained power with some salted lemons toward the almost endless, precise finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink from 2027.
