M. Chapoutier, Condrieu Invitare 2019

robert_parker 2020

Rating: 89 –89

Chapoutier's entry-level 2020 Condrieu Invitare is a step behind the lieu-dit from Coteau de Chery. More apricot than floral, it's a medium to full-bodied, easy-drinking version of Condrieu that finishes clean and refreshing. Drink it over the next couple of years.

robert_parker 2014

Rating: 88 –88

The 2014 Condrieu Invitare is a more mid-weight, charming effort that offers attractive (and textbook) notes of apricot, buttered tangerine, white flowers and lychee. Raised in 60% stainless steel tanks and 40% demi-muids, it’s medium-bodied, juicy and falls away on the finish.

robert_parker 2013

Rating: 89 –89

A ripe, sweetly fruited white, the 2013 Condrieu Invitare has a sweet, honeyed and apricot-scented bouquet to go with a rounded, fleshy, medium to full-bodied style on the palate. Drink it over the coming 1-2 years.

robert_parker 2010

Rating: 89 –89

The 2010 Condrieu Invitare displays excellent lychee, honeysuckle and apricot notes, good acidity (which seems to be a characteristic of this vintage throughout the Rhone), outstanding ripeness, medium to full body, and a long finish. It should be drunk over the next 2-3 years. (Not yet released) As I have written many times, all of these wines are produced from rigidly cultivated, bio-dynamically managed vineyards. That has been the rule since Michel Chapoutier first took over this firm in the late 1980s. Now, with over 20 years of biodynamic viticulture under his belt, Chapoutier remains committed to this rather radical style of organic farming. He believes the effect is to reduce rot in damp, rainy vintages. Moreover, he has observed that after 10 to 15 years of biodynamic farming, the natural acids tend to be more vivid and the overall pH of the soils (as well as the wines) has dropped. Controversial, outspoken and brutally candid, Chapoutier, who suffers no fools, continues to admirably produce wines that are among the finest in the world and potentially the longest lived. Refusing to acidify, chaptalize, or touch the wines in any way, he clearly wants every wine to capture the very essence of its terroir and vintage personality. In this, he succeeds remarkably. No one has made more effort in resurrecting the once-forgotten backwater appellation of St.-Peray than Michel Chapoutier. Working in conjunction with the famed Michelin three-star restaurant family, the Pics, Chapoutier has produced a sensational 2010 Gamme Pic and Chapoutier St.-Peray, and the first single-vineyard St.-Peray, the 2010 Lieu-Dit Peyrolles St.-Peray, which is one of the greatest St.-Perays I have ever tasted. This appellation is all steep hillside vineyards planted in pure, decomposed granite soils, not dissimilar from Hermitage, but they are located on the other side of the Rhone, facing the city of Valence. The single-vineyard wines, or selections parcellaires, 2010 whites are absolutely amazing, with production levels ranging from 300 to 700 or 800 cases of each cuvee. These wines are for true connoisseurs, as they are expensive and meant for long, long evolutions, but they capture the essence of a vintage and terroir as well as any wines in the world. As for the selections parcellaires of 2010 reds, Chapoutier likes this vintage almost as much as 2009, but feels it is very different, emphasizing more acidity and minerality, whereas 2009 is a combination of pure power, concentration and great potential longevity. Michel Chapoutier considers the 2009s, which are all in bottle, to be among the greatest wines he has ever produced, equaling his finest wines of 2006, 2003, 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut year). Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

robert_parker 2021

Rating: 93 –93

The 2021 Condrieu Invitare showcases the appellation's typical floral aromas, with just a hint of ginger and some fresh apricot flavors. Medium-bodied, this isn't a huge, blowsy wine but a refined, elegant and somewhat understated Condrieu that drinks well now, with a long and silky finish. It's Chapoutier's view that Viognier needs some oxygen during its élevage to help resolve the variety's bitterness, so this is largely matured in demi-muids but with virtually no new oak.

robert_parker 2015

Rating: 95 –95

As to the Condrieu, I was shocked at the quality of both new releases. The entry-level cuvée is the 2015 Condrieu Invitare. A flat-out great example of the appellation, it offers lots of caramelized peaches, tangerine, orange blossom and crushed rock-like characteristics in its rich, yet fresh and elegant style.

robert_parker 2016

Rating: 93 –93

The 2016 Condrieu Invitare is fresh, clean and balanced, avoiding any of the oiliness that can sometimes creep into Viognier. Lightly floral on the nose, it shows honeydew and apricot flavors, medium to full body, and hints of white pepper and tannin on the long finish. It should drink well for several years.

robert_parker 2017

Rating: 93 –93

Floral and apricot aromas are bolstered by hints of cedar, baking spices and honey on the nose of the 2017 Condrieu Invitare. It's full-bodied and rich but fresh and long on the finish. I'd drink it young for the flamboyant, exotic aromas and flavors, but it has the requisite concentration for aging, if desired.

robert_parker 2018

Rating: 92 –94

As a riper expression of Viognier, Chapoutier's 2018 Condrieu Invitare offers up floral aromas but also plenty of apricot and melon. It's medium to full-bodied, with a pleasantly silky texture but absolutely no hint of bitterness on the clean, lingering finish. It's a blend of purchased and estate grapes, with 75% fermented and aged in used barrels and 25% in stainless steel.

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 92 –92

Sporting more intensity and minerality is the best Condrieu Chapoutier has ever made, the 2009 Condrieu Invitare. Crushed rock, honeysuckle, white peach and apricot characteristics are present in this full-bodied, rich, striking effort. Enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. Other extraordinary efforts readers should be watching for include the 2009 Bila Haut Lesquerde, a Syrah dominated wine that I scored in the upper-90s. Equally as profound, but made from a completely different blend is the Bila Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages La Tour de France, which is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah. Both of these offerings are as remarkable as wine can be. From Australia, some wines to take note of include the Domaine Tournon 2009 Shiraz (or Syrah), an outstanding red sold at a fair price, and his single vineyard offerings the 2009 Shiraz Shays’ Flat and the 2009 Shiraz Landsborough, both extraordinary, mid-90 point Syrahs from Victoria. Also, readers should not forget his 2009 La Pleiade M45, a Syrah from the Cambrian soils of Heathcote. An Australian wine that flirts with perfection, which I had never tasted before, is the 2009 Shiraz One Shot from Beechworth, which is like a liqueur of blueberries and raspberries intermixed with graphite, tar and minerality. Other stunning offerings from Domaine Terlato and Chapoutier include the 2009 Shiraz Malakoff (rated 92-94) and the 2009 Shiraz L Block (rated 93-95+). Last, but not least, Michel Chapoutier has entered the Portuguese wine arena, producing two extraordinary wines from a 5-hectare parcel in the Douro. The 2009 Touriga Nacional (rated 94-96) comes from pure schist soils. It reveals incredible floral notes intermixed with sweet blueberry, black raspberry and cassis. As amazing as it is, it may be surpassed by the 2009 Touriga Nacional Pinteivera from Pinhao. It is undeniably the single greatest red Portuguese wine I have ever tasted. It, too, is from schist soils. Both of these wines are remarkable efforts from what may be the world’s leading, irreverent genius in winemaking and winemaking philosophy. And one more thing about the remarkable Michel Chapoutier, he now has property in Alsace, Domaine Schieferkopf. I tasted a 2009 Riesling (rated 89), 2009 Riesling Buehl (rated 93), and 2009 Riesling Fels (rated 94). All are very dry, crisp, medium to full-bodied Rieslings from the Andlau sector of northern Alsace. These remarkable whites come from schist soils and Chapoutier has again demonstrated his Midas touch with a completely different varietal. Michel Chapoutier is firmly convinced that 2009 is the greatest vintage in his lifetime, which means 2009 surpasses 2003 (he made some great wines in that unusual vintage), 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut vintage after taking over the firm). These wines are all produced by bio-dynamically farmed vineyards. Moreover, there is no chaptalization or acidification, and as Michel Chapoutier says, he wants to capture each vintage in photographic detail. It is also important to recognize Chapoutier’s life philosophy, which, rather than being obsessed with correcting one’s faults, is dedicated to capitalizing on one’s strengths. For all of his charm and bravado, Chapoutier is the quintessential man of the soil, a true terroiriste dedicated to producing the most vivid, natural and unadulterated expressions of the many different vineyards with which he works. While 2009 was a perfect year of extraordinary concentration as well as freshness, the 2008 vintage experienced huge rainstorms on September 5, 6 and 8. However, Chapoutier argues that while his bio-dynamically farmed vineyards suffered from some dilution, they had no sanitary problems like many other estates endured. Certainly his 2008s appear to be among the strongest efforts in a disappointing vintage in the Northern Rhone. One expects Chapoutier to excel with his four Hermitage vineyards (Le Pavillon, l’Ermite, Le Meal and Les Greffieux). Tasting through the 2009s reinforces the belief that this is one of the all-time great vintages for the entire Northern Rhone Valley. It couldn’t happen at a better time. While certain 2003s are great, there really hasn’t been an overall consistently profound vintage in the Northern Rhone since 1990. Connoisseurs should be stocking up on the single vineyard offerings, both white and red, which are spectacular. Michel Chapoutier makes a bevy of other wines that merit a few notes because they are so good. Even though they are not from my areas of responsibilities, I thought I would mention a few that stood out when I tasted with him. Like an itinerant genius, Chapoutier has projects in Australia, Portugal and southern France. I and my colleague David Schildknecht have written about his exquisite offerings from the Cotes du Roussillon under the label Domaine de Bila Haut, and his partnership with the Laughton family for his Agly Brothers Cotes du Roussillon rouge. These wines all merit attention from consumers. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

robert_parker 2011

Rating: 92 –92

Chapoutier’s 2011 Condrieu Invitare reveals lychee nuts, honeysuckle, buttered melon and nectarine notes in its rich, full-bodied personality. It is a noteworthy success in a vintage that was extremely strong for Condrieu. In November of this year, Michel Chapoutier finally made the cover of The Wine Spectator. The accompanying article said essentially the same things I had written about over twenty years ago. More importantly, I am thrilled that Chapoutier received this attention because it has long been deserved. History will record that Michel Chapoutier is a revolutionary. He is also a highly emotional man whose infectious love of primitive art, historic books, classical music and, of course, terroir and winemaking are seemingly impossible to harness. Michel Chapoutier was among the first in France to embrace the radical biodynamic agricultural teachings, for which he was initially criticized, but is now praised. He was also the first to print all his labels in Braille, something that cynics considered to be a gimmick, but ask the National Association for the Blind what they think. Coming from a famous family, but moving in a direction unlike any of its previous members, Michel Chapoutier is self-taught. What he has accomplished over the last two decades or more is one of the great wine stories of the modern era. With all his outgoing, boisterous, machine-gun-speed prose that can sometimes sound shockingly cocky, and at other times reminiscent of the famous Lebanese poet Khalil Gibran, there is never a dull moment around Chapoutier., who makes comments such as “Filtering wine is like making love with a condom,” and “Acidifying wine is like putting a suit of armor on the vineyard’s terroir, vintage character and the cepage.” Don’t blame him if his brilliant intellect and shocking vocabulary put his visitors on the defensive. Michel Chapoutier has proven through his genius, the faith of his convictions and backbreaking attention to detail in his vineyards and in the winery that a once moribund negociant (yet with significant vineyard holdings) could become a beacon of inspiration and quality for the entire world. In short, every wine consumer in the world should admire his accomplishments. All of Chapoutier’s lower level 2010 whites and basic reds have long been sold out, so to keep the tasting somewhat limited during my visit, we focused on the more recently released 2010 white and red selections parcellaires and nearly all the 2011s. As for the 2010 selection parcellaire whites, they are spectacular. Le Pavillon, once called Rochefine and owned by Jaboulet-Verchere, consists of 10 acres of pure granite in the famed Les Bessards, which is considered by many to be the single greatest terroir of Hermitage. The Ermitage Le Pavillon, which is meant to age for 50+ years, is Michel Chapoutier’s legacy, and he is confident that history will support his belief in this extraordinary wine. Michel Chapoutier is not alone in believing the 2011s may resemble a more modern day version of 1991. That vintage was largely underrated by just about everybody (except yours truly) because all the accolades and hyperbole were largely bestowed on both 1989 and 1990 (deservedly), but in the Northern Rhone 1991 turned out to be a strikingly superb vintage for Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Cornas and Condrieu. In the Southern Rhone, the vintage was largely a disaster. Following is an overview of what to expect with the inexpensive 2011 whites and reds. Most of these wines do not have the weight, power or tannic structure of the 2010s, but they are by no means diluted or wimpish wines. They tend to be charming, fruit-forward and seductive, and thus may be preferred by consumers looking for immediate gratification. Although the first few wines reviewed are Southern Rhones, they need to be covered because they are in bottle, and I did not review them in issue 203. Along with several other producers, Michel Chapoutier has helped increase the world’s attention to the long-forgotten, microscopic appellation of St.-Peray. Chapoutier produces a bevy of St.-Perays under his own name as well as in partnership with two three-star chefs, Sophie Pic, of the Restaurant Pic in Valence (as well as several culinary branches in Paris and Lausanne, Switzerland), and Yannick Alleno, the brilliant chef at the Hotel Le Meurice’s in Paris. The red 2011 selections parcellaires are already fruit-forward and seductive. Readers should love them as they are much more evolved than the more structured, powerful, dense, tannic 2010s. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

robert_parker 2012

Rating: 91 –91

The 2012 Condrieu Invitare is a beautiful Viognier that possesses classic lychee, tangerine, flowers and hints of apricot to go with a mineral-driven, medium-bodied, focused and lively feel on the palate. It can be enjoyed any time over the coming 5-6 years. This was an incredible tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his second hand man, Pierre-Henri Morel. Certainly one of the success stories in wine, which Robert Parker does a fabulous job of detailing in Issue 204, this estate goes from strength to strength in just about every appellation in the Rhone Valley. Looking specifically at Hermitage, Chapoutier owns a massive 64 acres, mostly on the famed Bessards lieu-dit, yet also with significant portions on Le Meal, L’Ermite and Les Greffieux, with smaller portions in the Beaume and Murets lieux-dits. From this he fashions five reds (Monier De La Sizeranne, Les Greffieux, Le Meal, Le Pavillon and L’Ermite) and four whites (Chante Alouette, Cuvee de l’Oree, Le Meal Blanc and L’Ermite Blanc), all of which are brilliant wines, with the best ranking up alongside the top wines in the world. In addition, his Saint Josephs (Les Granits and Le Clos) are some of the leading wines of the appellation (along with Guigal’s Vignes de l’Hospice and a few others), and his Cote Rotie La Mordoree, which comes from his 12 acres (split between the roughly defined Cote Blonde and Cote Brune regions), is always a classic example of the appellation. I was also able to taste through a full lineup of his Languedoc and Roussillon releases, all of which were impressive. I’ll review those wines in my 2014 coverage on those regions. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

robert_parker 2006

Rating: 92 –92

From the Coteau de Chery, one of the most privileged hillside sites in Condrieu, comes the 2006 Condrieu Invitare. This is the finest Condrieu Chapoutier has yet made. Wonderful honeysuckle, lychee, and liqueur of rocks is followed by a medium to full-bodied wine with terrific acidity, beautifully pure fruit, and a long, heady finish. Condrieu doesn’t hold up well with aging, so drink it over the next several years. With twenty vintages under his belt, Michel Chapoutier and his impressive winemaking staff go from strength to strength. These are among the world’s greatest wines, especially the single vineyard wines, many of which will last 50 or more years. Chapoutier thinks 2006 is one of the very finest vintages in the northern Rhone for white wines (and I don’t see any reason to disagree). The naturally high acidity and a summer season with no brutal heat waves allowed the wines to maintain their acidity while at the same time gaining flavor intensity. I have always had the feeling that despite his prodigious ability to make profound red wines, Michel Chapoutier gets a greater thrill from his white wine portfolio than from his impressive reds. . The single vineyard wines from Chapoutier are wines of super concentration, and are made from what are historically tiny yields. Along with Chaves’ white Hermitage and a handful of other Rhone whites, these are potentially the longest-lived and most profound whites being produced there. From the granite hillsides of St.-Joseph, Michel Chapoutier makes by far the appellation’s finest white, and one might argue, red as well. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

robert_parker 2007

Rating: 87 –87

I preferred the exotic yet inexpensive 2007 Vin de Pays Les Granges de Mirabel (reviewed in Issue 181) over the more expensive, crisp 2007 Condrieu Invitare. While Michel Chapoutier produces some of the world’s greatest wines from single parcels of old vines spread throughout the northern and southern Rhone (see my ecstatic reviews of his 2007 and 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179), he also has an impressive portfolio of value-priced wines that are often over-looked when this impressive producer is discussed. Following are some top-notch picks that all sell for exceptionally fair prices. Chapoutier has not achieved as great as success in Cornas as he has in the other northern Rhone appellations, although his Cornas wines get better with each vintage. There are four extraordinary single vineyard white wines, all of which are among the greatest dry white wines of the world. While all of them can be drunk young, they are meant for extended cellaring. Made from very small yields, they represent the essence of a varietal as well as a vineyard site. As the following notes demonstrate, 2006 was one of the greatest vintages for white wines at Chapoutier. The single vineyard selection parcellaire red wines range in production from 500 to nearly 1,000 cases. 2007 is a very good vintage for these selections, but 2006 has an edge. It is reminiscent of 1996 because of the wines’ freshness and acid levels, but Chapoutier’s 2006s are even more concentrated than his 1996s. Chapoutier’s four 2006 cuvees of single vineyard Hermitage are exquisite. Most of the yields were between 10 and 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines are extravagantly rich. The 2006 and 2007 luxury cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape Croix des Bois and Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac were reviewed in issue #179. They are all astounding wines, especially in 2007 Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

robert_parker 2022

The 2022 Condrieu Invitare is introverted and shy, followed by a moderately weighted, enrobing and somewhat flabby palate that concludes with a short, fruity finish. This wine was quite disappointing, suggesting there may have been an issue with the bottle, hence the question mark.

james_suckling 2016

Rating: 92 –92

Intense and slightly sappy apricots with dried herbs and subtly spicy notes. The palate has nice, crisp and punchy, melon flavor and quite tight texture. Drink or hold.

james_suckling 2017

Rating: 92 –92

There’s a very rich and ripe feel here with honey and peach aromas, leading to a palate that is packed with ripe-apricot flavor and some smooth, fleshy and supple resolve. Drink now.

james_suckling 2020

Rating: 91 –91

Tons of dried grapefruit zest and toast on the nose, but also a hint of sawdust. Makes a bold statement on the expansive palate, the oak tannins quite pronounced, but they also help the bright acidity to counterpoint the power. Drink or hold.

james_suckling 2021

Rating: 93 –93

An excellent Condrieu with a very appealing interplay of stone fruit aromas, lively acidity and a touch of creaminess on the medium- to full-body. Just a hint of toastiness. Restrained tannins at the long finish. Drink or hold.

james_suckling 2022

Rating: 94 –94

A well-rounded. textural and succulent white with notes of fresh lemons, blanched almonds, sage and some stones. It’s medium-bodied with a mineral drive. Succulent green apple character, with a positive bitterness throughout. It’s precise, lively and textured with a salivating, floral finish. Drink or hold.

james_suckling 2023

Rating: 94 –94

Bright, driven, aromatic and precise, this is succulent and lively, showing aromas of white peaches, almond milk and mountain flowers. Medium-bodied and well-rounded, it’s fresh, playful and fruity with lovely bitter-almond character and some white flowers toward the succulent finish. Drink or hold.