Leflaive, Bienvenues Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 2014

vinous 1997

Rating: 92 –92

Reticent spicy/floral/herbal nose offers an enticing hint of lime blossom. Dense, minerally and solidly structured, if a bit linear today. Not a particularly powerful style but perhaps better balanced and fleshier than the '98. Expands slowly on the very long aftertaste.

vinous 1997

Rating: 90 –93

Lemon, nuts, flowers and spicy oak on the nose. Sweet, broad and very rich, but strong chewy extract gives it shape and focus. Flavors are quite refined for the vintage. The longest yet of these '97s, and spicy on the aftertaste.

vinous 2017

Rating: 92 –95

Ripe yellow stone fruits and hazelnut on the nose. Dense, sappy and quite dry, with its rather bracing acidity (at the high end for these '17s) giving the saline middle palate outstanding precision. This very tight wine is not yet displaying grand cru weight or palate presence but it spreads out and vibrates on the very long, pure, slowly building back end. This was the first '17 to finish both its alcoholic and malolactic fermentations, which may explain its peacock's tail of a finish.

vinous 2019

Rating: 94 –94

The 2019 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is cut from a similar cloth to the Les Pucelles on the nose: reserved, mineral-driven with hints of orange blossom emerging with time, later more Granny Smith apples. The palate is strict and precise, demonstrating impressive weight, especially towards the back end. Maybe not quite as complex as the best of Leflaive’s Premier Cru, though it is extremely pesistent with a long ginger-tinged aftertaste. Closure: Diam 30

vinous 2014

Rating: 93 –93

(the grand crus were bottled about two weeks before my visit): Pale, bright yellow. Very subtle, scented aromas of lemon, flowers, noble herbs, white pepper and crushed stone. Sedate and harmonious in the mouth, with terrific intensity and sweetness to its floral and citrus flavors. Not especially fleshy or open-knit but this wine has the balance for a graceful evolution in bottle. Strong lemony acidity draws out the long, subtle, resounding finish.

vinous 2014

Rating: 92 –95

Bright, pale yellow. Expressive, highly nuanced nose combines stone fruits, lime blossom, white pepper, honey and crushed stone. Sweet, plush and silky; more glyceral than the Pucelles and showing a rare sucrosité for this grand cru in the early going. Wonderfully fine-grained, harmonious and long on the aftertaste.

vinous 2020

Rating: 95 –95

The 2020 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is quite intense on the nose with flinty, slightly fumé scents complementing the green apple and pear notes, becoming more citric with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced with gorgeous dried orange peel, chamomile and hints of white pepper, fanning out gloriously on the finish. Bon vin.

vinous 2015

Rating: 94 –94

Pale, bright yellow. Sexy, expressive aromas of pineapple, stone fruits, hawthorn, almond flower and spicy oak. Silky and full but surprisingly light on its feet, showing captivating floral lift and definition to its lemon, peach and smoky mineral flavors. This vibrant, fine-grained wine coats the cheeks and leaves the mouth refreshed.

vinous 2015

Rating: 91 –93

Pale yellow. Inviting high-pitched aromas of citrus peel, white peach and spices. Brisk acidity (4.35 g/l) and some unabsorbed CO2 give definition to the savory flavors of citrus fruits, spices and saline minerality. This supple but youthfully restrained wine finishes with excellent subtle persistence.

robert_parker 2020

Rating: 95 –95

Leflaive's 2020 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru exhibits aromas of white currants, citrus oil, freshly baked bread, fresh herbs and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and layered palate with good concentration, racy acids and a chalky finish. This is quite a fine-boned, delicate Bienvenues that doesn't show much of the vintage's sunshine.

robert_parker 2019

Rating: 95 –95

Unwinding in the glass with aromas of peach, pear, hazelnuts and dried white flowers, framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction, the 2019 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its concentrated core of fruit framed by racy acids and chalky extract. Like the Pucelles, this is precise and fine boned, but it's also more muscular and intense.

robert_parker 2018

Rating: 94 –94

Scents of pear, white flowers, almond paste, buttered toast, citrus zest and smoke preface the 2018 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied and satiny wine that's layered and fleshy, with a satiny attack that segues into a tightly wound core and a chalky finish. This, too, should reward bottle age.

robert_parker 2018

Rating: 93 –95

Aromas of pear, mandarin oil, white flowers and warm bread introduce Leflaive's 2018 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered wine that's textural and muscular, with a lively spine of acidity and a long, mineral finish.

robert_parker 2015

Rating: 91 –93

The 2015 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a very pretty bouquet, almost like a more complex and vigorous version of the 2015 Puligny Clavoillon - hints of acacia honey, honeysuckle, cold limestone and flint. The aromas appear to gain vigor in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with good weight in the mouth. Perhaps not quite as tensile as the 2014, nevertheless it is nicely focused and offers good weight on the finish. I would just like to see more terroir expression on the finish here, though there is fine salinity. It does not quite seem to deliver the same focus as the Les Pucelles that I tasted directly before it, so they will be two interesting wines to compare once in bottle.

robert_parker 2015

Rating: 94 –94

The 2015 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing very well, opening in the glass with a reticent but detailed bouquet of fresh pear, white peach, tangerine oil, spring flowers, pastry cream and a delicate framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and effortlessly complete, with succulent acids, elegantly glossy textural impact and understated persistence on the finish. This cuvée is beautifully balanced and full of energy, but it has definitely closed down after bottling and will demand five years in the cellar at the very minimum before it begins to expatiate. Matured in 20% new oak and bottled under Diam 30.

robert_parker 2013

Rating: 92 –94

The 2013 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a subtle, mineral nose with Granny Smith apple, cream puffs and flinty scents developing after a couple of minutes in the glass. The palate is rounded and harmonious on the entry with glimpses of white peach and nectarine. The acidity is finely tuned and lends the finish an effortless feel. This Bienvenue is more about the texture than flavors at the moment, with just a touch of viscosity lending it a modicum of richness. Does it rank alongside the immense 2012? Perhaps it falls just short...but not by much.

robert_parker 2013

Rating: 93 –93

The 2013 Bienvenue Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean bouquet, touches of undergrowth here, perhaps not quite as comely as the 2014 may turn out. The palate is nicely balanced with hints of bitter lemon, striking acidity but showing composure and class on the finish that appears to have retained some of that nascent richness that it showed in barrel.

robert_parker 2010

Rating: 97 –97

Things go up a notch or two with the 2010 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, which appears to hover on the palate with the grace of a ballerina. The Bienvenues is all about weightless elegance and implied structure, but it is all there in the glass. At times a bit intellectual, the Bienvenues is nevertheless immensely appealing. Layers of soft, perfumed fruit flow effortlessly to the nuanced, feminine finish. A hint of floral honey and almonds lingers on the palate. I can’t wait to see how this ages. Anticipated maturity: 2020+. Estate Manager Eric Remy has one of the sharpest memories of anyone I have ever met. His recall of specific dates and events is quite remarkable, so I will take advantage of that in reporting a very complete picture of the 2010 growing season. Accoring to Remy, in order to gain some insight on 2010, one has to start with the brutal frost of December 19, 2009, when temperatures dropped to a bone chilling -20C/-4F after having hovered around freezing for a few days prior. The very next day, temperatures shot up to 10C/50F. January was quite dry. A bit of snow fell in early February, but the rest of the month was dry. The last frosts at the domaine were recorded from March 10-14. The weather improved in April, especially towards the end of the month. May and June were cold. Flowering in the domine’s vineyards started on June 5th and ended between June 20 and 22. The first part of July was hot but stable, while the second part of the month was cold and humid. Unstable conditions persisted throughout August. A hailstorm with heavy thunder in Santenay on September 12 was a sign harvest time was approaching. A bit of botrytis was recorded on September 17. The harvest started on September 20. Yields came in around 45 hectoliters per hectare, pretty much in line with 2009, the only domaine I visited where that is the case. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 94 –94

The 2009 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet is dazzling from start to finish. Silky and seamless at first, the wine impresses for its impeccable balance and tons of class. Chalky, mineral notes appear later, adding length, freshness and verve, while floral notes add the last flourishes of elegance. This is all silk and cashmere, especially on the finish. The Bienvenues seems to hover on the palate, inhabiting in the stratosphere reserved for just a handful of the world's truly great wines. Anticipated maturity: 2017+. Domaine Leflaive is one of the pioneers in biodynamic viticulture in Burgundy. The first experiments began in 1990 and by 1997 all of the vineyards had been converted to biodynamic farming. Winemaker Eric Remy describes the 2009 growing season in considerable detail. The winter was long but mild. The last frost occurred on March 23. Temperatures were normal until the last week of the month, when the weather turned warmer. Flowering began on May 22. The rest of the spring and summer were warm, while a big storm in mid-July dropped 8cm of rain. The rest of the summer was quite warm. The harvest began on September 5, about ten days earlier than normal. Average yields were around 45 hectoliters per hectare. The wines were aged for 12 months in oak followed by 6-8 months in steel. New oak ranged from 10% for the Bourgogne, 15% for the villages, 20% for the premier crus and 25% for the grand crus. The 2009s were bottled between April and June 2011. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 92 –92

Tasted out of stainless-steel tank at the Domaine. Similar to the Combettes, this nose did not want to come out and play when I tasted from tank, but eventually offered subtle limestone and white peach aromas, with a very faint honeyed not in the background. The palate is well balanced with an entry reminiscent of a Corton-Charlemagne. Very well defined towards the finish, that does not quite have the fireworks of the Pucelles at the moment. Tasted January 2011.

robert_parker 2007

Rating: 90 –92

Tasted at the Domaine. This is again, reticent on the nose and only reluctantly revealing some notes of limestone, fresh lime and flint. Just lacks a little complexity compared to the Batard. The palate has a fresh, stony entry with Granny Smiths and lime coming through. Delicate touch of passion fruit with a pretty, slightly short finish. Fine. Drink 2012-2022. Tasted January 2009.

robert_parker 2007

Rating: 94 –94

The Leflaive 2007 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet smells of lily, heliotrope, and narcissus, white peach, pineapple, and toasted nuts. With infectious primary juiciness of ripe fruit accompanied by liquid floral perfume on the palate, and transparent to saline and chalky nuances, this is creamy and rich without sacrificing refreshment or a sense of lift and delicacy. For all of its alluring perfume and suggestions of sweetness, the finish here is remarkably dominated by saline, stony, and savory yet still mineral characteristics. This is a bit less dynamic than the Pucelles but at least for now richer. It strikes me as another candidate for a decade of enjoyment. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 2006

Served blind, this bottle of 2006 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Leflaive was a big disappointment. Color alone raised my alarm - way too deep considering its age. The nose was clearly showing excessive oxidation, whilst the palate had a pleasant waxy texture, but was scuppered by a sense of flatness and enervation. It's the kind of expensive white Burgundy that has put off many of its most ardent and loyal admirers from buying and cellaring the wine that they love. Caveat emptor.

robert_parker 2000

Rating: 93 –93

This is an outstanding Batard-Montrachet. The nose is captivating with minerals, limestone and a touch of smoke all with incredible delineation and vivacity. The palate is very intense and powerful with great balance. A "lively" Batard, vivacious and minerally with that Puligny "reserve" about it. Good length. Superior to the 2001 and a great success in the context of the vintage. This will blossom over the next ten of fifteen years. Drink now-2015. Tasted October 2006.

robert_parker 1997

Rating: 93 –93

Tasted at Roberson’s Burgundy tasting. That trademark mineralite, that ethereal flintiness on the nose with just fantastic definition and expression of terroir. The aromatics just seem to launch themselves from the glass. The palate is well balanced, probably at its peak now, good depth, slightly creamy in texture, leesy with hazelnut, a hint of almond, touches of green apple and pear towards the finish that is a little more phenolic than I expected and it does not quite have the length of a really great Leflaive (whose wines excelled in ’97). This is at its peak now. Superb. Drink now-2020+ Tasted March 2010.

robert_parker 1996

Rating: 94 –94

Although not quite as ethereal as the 1992, the 1996 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet does not disappoint, and at 18 years young, will continue to offer great pleasure for many years. It has a tangible mineral intensity, just a slight reduction that seems to blow away, followed by fabulous granitic scents that are stern and terse, almost aloof. The palate is underpinned by a killer line of acidity and wonderful salinity. Again, there is just a touch of reduction here, but that does not detract from a magnificent, majestic Bienvenue that is perhaps only just beginning to hits its stride.

robert_parker 1996

Rating: 95 –95

The Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet was the last of the 1996s to start its malo-lactic. It spent over 24 months on its lees without any sulfur, something that would have been a recipe for disaster in a less hygienic and lower acid year. It displays fresh clay, earth, and sweet pear aromas that are followed by an expansive and rich personality. This wine is extremely exuberant (atypical for the usually austere Bienvenue), expressing super-ripe pear, peach, earth, toast, and lemon flavors. Morey and Leflaive are convinced that this wine will soon shut down and be unapproachable for years. Projected maturity: 2004-2012+. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.

robert_parker 1992

Rating: 94 –94

The dense 1992 Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet displays a cherry/orange/ripe apple-scented nose, powerful, thick, rich flavors, fine acidity, and a long, lusty, alcoholic finish. It is a big wine for drinking over the next 7-8 years. The Domaine Leflaive has enjoyed many successful vintages over the years - 1979, 1985, 1986, and 1989 come to mind immediately - but the 1992s are the finest young wines this domaine has produced. Yields averaged 45 hectoliters per hectare, far below most recent vintages. The wines are renowned for their purity and elegance, but the 1992s also display a special level of richness and intensity. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Co., New York, NY.

robert_parker 1992

Rating: 96 –96

Now 22 years of age, Anne-Claude Leflaive's 1992 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet is still going strong and, given the performance here, you could envisage it continuing along its plateau for another ten years. It has a surprisingly deep color, but don't let that put you off. It has a magnificently detailed oyster-shell bouquet that expresses minerality like few others, a strong marine influence developing all the time in the glass. The palate is beautifully defined with nigh on perfect acidity. It is an intense Bienvenue with subtle white peach and citrus notes toward the ethereal finish. This is utter class.

robert_parker 1991

Rating: 87 –87

The Domaine Leflaive has enjoyed many successful vintages over the years - 1979, 1985, 1986, and 1989 come to mind immediately - but the 1992s are the finest young wines this domaine has produced. Yields averaged 45 hectoliters per hectare, far below most recent vintages. The wines are renowned for their purity and elegance, but the 1992s also display a special level of richness and intensity. No specific tasting note. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Co., New York, NY.

robert_parker 1990

Rating: 88 –88

No specific tasting note. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Co., New York, NY.

robert_parker 1989

Rating: 90 –90

Leflaive's grands crus include an excellent 1989 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet, which was backward and unevolved, although still impressive. Although Leflaive's 1989s are top-notch, they are not as dramatic as one would expect from a vintage with the taste profile of 1989. I am not even sure if Leflaive's 1989s are as brilliant as their 1985s or 1986s. All of the great Burgundy domaines have a certain signature to their wines that is more recognizable than any perceived terroir character. In the case of the Domaine Leflaive (a reference point for all who cherish the finest in Chardonnay) that personality is one of uncompromising elegance, finesse, and purity of flavor. Anyone who has visited Leflaive has seen more water hoses than owned by the local fire department. Why? This is a domaine maniacal about pristine conditions in the cellars. The results, even in lighter vintages such as 1987, are admirable. The finest wines, of course, are the grands crus, but the biggest sleepers of the firm are the delicate Puligny-Montrachet-Les Pucelles and the fatter, richer, more husky Puligny-Montrachet-Les Combettes. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY.

robert_parker 1985

Rating: 92 –92

The 1985 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was poured from a magnum following on from their own 2004 Chevalier-Montrachet. Of course, this was the era prior to the introduction of biodynamics. Nevertheless, it boasted a powerful nose with white peach, wild fennel and grass clipping scents, an underlying mineralité that only surfaces after rigorous aeration. The palate is surprisingly opulent and powerful, reflecting the warmth of that growing season. Lovely honeyed notes, a dash of lemon rind and an almost resinous finish complete this delicious Bienvenue. As this was from a larger format, I suspect that bottles may be more advanced, but certainly this was drinking beautifully. Tasted November 2016.

vinous 2012

Rating: 94 –94

(bottled two weeks before my visit): Pale yellow. Pure, subdued aromas of peach and menthol. Cool and youthfully streamlined, with lovely perfumed lift and cut to the sharply chiseled stone fruit, mineral and menthol flavors. Penetrating, young and very long, finishing with chewy stony grip. This will need at least six years in the cellar.

vinous 2012

Rating: 92 –95

Pale, bright yellow. Tight, reserved nose hints at hazelnut and nutty oak; the fruit is shy today following the recent end of the malolactic fermentation. Dense and tactile, with intense peach and lemon flavors supported by strong minerality. This rich wine boasts lovely balance from the outset but its back-end density and chewiness suggest that it will reward medium-term aging. My sample left behind a whiff of white truffle in the empty glass.

vinous 2018

Rating: 95 –97

The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, stoic, delineated bouquet with scents of wet limestone and sea spray, just a slight menthol note developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. A very pretty, elegant Bienvenue that reveals hints of blood orange and sour lemon on the precise, persistent finish. This is a gorgeous Bienvenue.

robert_parker 2014

Rating: 93 –95

The 2014 Bienvenue Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru has a come-hither bouquet that is very immediate: passion fruit, apricot blossom, cold stone and even a faint touch of strawberry winegums. The palate is well balanced with a keen line of acidity, good weight in the mouth with a touch of citrus lemon and lime, but perhaps just needing more complexity and terroir expression to come through on the finish. This is one of the best 2014 Bienvenues that I have come across -- an absolute delight.

robert_parker 2016

Rating: 91 –93

The 2016 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet Grand Cru was diminished from 22 to seven barrels this vintage. The bouquet demanded some coaxing from the glass, a little introverted following the Pucelles and Folatières. With time there are fleeting glimpses of wild mint and iodine. The palate is very balanced and harmonious, a pretty and feminine Bienvenues with nicely pitched acidity and a touch of orange peel and white peach toward the saline finish. I suspect it will drink earlier than Leflaive’s other grand crus.

robert_parker 2015

Rating: 94 –94

The 2015 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing very well, opening in the glass with a reticent but detailed bouquet of fresh pear, white peach, tangerine oil, spring flowers, pastry cream and a delicate framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and effortlessly complete, with succulent acids, elegantly glossy textural impact and understated persistence on the finish. This cuvée is beautifully balanced and full of energy, but it has definitely closed down after bottling and will demand five years in the cellar at the very minimum before it begins to expatiate. Matured in 20% new oak and bottled under Diam 30.

robert_parker 2017

Rating: 93 –95

Like the Pucelles, the 2017 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is quite tensile and reserved, unfurling in the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, iodine, orange rind and creamy new wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, textural and fleshy, but taut—even firm—at the core, with good concentration, tangy acid and a bright, chalky finish. Like all these releases, I'm looking forward to seeing it from bottle.

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 94 –94

The 2009 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet is dazzling from start to finish. Silky and seamless at first, the wine impresses for its impeccable balance and tons of class. Chalky, mineral notes appear later, adding length, freshness and verve, while floral notes add the last flourishes of elegance. This is all silk and cashmere, especially on the finish. The Bienvenues seems to hover on the palate, inhabiting in the stratosphere reserved for just a handful of the world's truly great wines. Anticipated maturity: 2017+. Domaine Leflaive is one of the pioneers in biodynamic viticulture in Burgundy. The first experiments began in 1990 and by 1997 all of the vineyards had been converted to biodynamic farming. Winemaker Eric Remy describes the 2009 growing season in considerable detail. The winter was long but mild. The last frost occurred on March 23. Temperatures were normal until the last week of the month, when the weather turned warmer. Flowering began on May 22. The rest of the spring and summer were warm, while a big storm in mid-July dropped 8cm of rain. The rest of the summer was quite warm. The harvest began on September 5, about ten days earlier than normal. Average yields were around 45 hectoliters per hectare. The wines were aged for 12 months in oak followed by 6-8 months in steel. New oak ranged from 10% for the Bourgogne, 15% for the villages, 20% for the premier crus and 25% for the grand crus. The 2009s were bottled between April and June 2011. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 2010

Rating: 97 –97

Things go up a notch or two with the 2010 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, which appears to hover on the palate with the grace of a ballerina. The Bienvenues is all about weightless elegance and implied structure, but it is all there in the glass. At times a bit intellectual, the Bienvenues is nevertheless immensely appealing. Layers of soft, perfumed fruit flow effortlessly to the nuanced, feminine finish. A hint of floral honey and almonds lingers on the palate. I can’t wait to see how this ages. Anticipated maturity: 2020+. Estate Manager Eric Remy has one of the sharpest memories of anyone I have ever met. His recall of specific dates and events is quite remarkable, so I will take advantage of that in reporting a very complete picture of the 2010 growing season. Accoring to Remy, in order to gain some insight on 2010, one has to start with the brutal frost of December 19, 2009, when temperatures dropped to a bone chilling -20C/-4F after having hovered around freezing for a few days prior. The very next day, temperatures shot up to 10C/50F. January was quite dry. A bit of snow fell in early February, but the rest of the month was dry. The last frosts at the domaine were recorded from March 10-14. The weather improved in April, especially towards the end of the month. May and June were cold. Flowering in the domine’s vineyards started on June 5th and ended between June 20 and 22. The first part of July was hot but stable, while the second part of the month was cold and humid. Unstable conditions persisted throughout August. A hailstorm with heavy thunder in Santenay on September 12 was a sign harvest time was approaching. A bit of botrytis was recorded on September 17. The harvest started on September 20. Yields came in around 45 hectoliters per hectare, pretty much in line with 2009, the only domaine I visited where that is the case. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 2012

Rating: 94 –96

The 2012 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru possesses a wonderful, complex bouquet with orange zest, apricot blossom, minerals and white peach that wafts enticingly from the glass, gathering momentum with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp, effervescent entry. The mineral-core is more pronounced here than the premier crus, with a taut piercing finish that feels very persistency in the mouth. Superb. Anne-Claude Leflaive made a brief appearance during my tasting at the domaine since she was hastening off to Italy. I have been visiting here for as long as I can remember, first meeting former winemaker Pierre Morey in the 1990s. Back in those days, the tenets of biodynamism were evident, although back then I did not really understand them. Today, there is almost evangelism towards Steiner’s philosophy, not in a monomaniacal sense, rather a strong belief that Anne-Claude’s wines would be pale shadows without them. Parking outside their gates, it was good to be back after a three-year absence. Nothing much had changed. On this occasion it was Antoine Repetit de la Bigne who escorted me down to the stainless-steel vats where the final blends were resting prior to bottling, which is where I always taste. I wondered whether finally I would hear “Oui” when I ask whether I could taste their single barrel of Montrachet? I decided not to ask. That would be rude. Antoine told me that the harvest began on September 14 and everything was picked by September 21. Of course, I had to bring up the topic of hail damage. Antoine explained that here it was de facto the second hail storm on August 1 that inflicted the most damage, particularly on their parcels of village cru. In the end, Leflaive ended up losing approximately half their crop depending up the vineyard. “Fortunately it was just before veraison so the berries did not have a lot of juice in them,” Antoine informed me, clambering up the ladder to dip his pipette into another vat. “Curiously, even the big berries had little juice. It was important to apply the treatments quickly so that the vines do not become stressed and retard the vegetative cycle. We used nettle and velarian (a source of phosphorous) that were both very effective. Then when it came to sorting, the vibrating table de trie was crucial.” Many of the treatments had to be done on foot, much to the chagrin of the team plodding through the vines in their heavy muddy boots. Usually for the last three years it has been horses hooves in the vineyard. However, in 2012 it was found that two human legs were better than four equine ones. It is always an intellectual as well as satisfying sensory exercise tasting through Anne-Claude Leflaive’s wines. It always serves as a lesson in terroir expression: same grape, same approach. As so often I find, those not wishing to spend too much money ought to head directly from their village cru, their Puligny-Montrachet one of the finest you will find in Cote de Beaune. Beyond that, well each year springs up a different premier cru that catches you off guard. Myself, I was taken with stunning Les Pucelles due to its precocity and intensity that lifted it equal to the grand crus. Others might prefer something subtler. I do not think Anne-Claude wines are beyond criticism. Sometimes the aura that veils the estate and Anne-Claude herself, creates a shield so that they are impermeable to dissenting comments. Biodynamics itself has never precluded an intrinsically superior wine to one where a load of chemical was dumped onto the vineyard. The question is more: if given the choice, which would you prefer to put in your mouth? Antoine hands me a copy of his paperback entitled “What’s so Special About Biodynamic Wine.” I read the chapter on wine critics on the way home. I agree with him that we should strive to taste as much as possible at the domaine, but at the end of the day, a biodynamic wine should not be critiqued with preferential treatment. Whether Anne-Claude Leflaive’s Chevalier-Montrachet is biodynamic or not is irrelevant. I am more interested in its intrinsic qualities vis-a-vis their Les Pucelles or Bienvenue, vis-a-vis the Chevalier-Montrachet from Alain Chavy, Jean Chartron, Etienne Sauzet or Michel Niellon. And the Chevalier-Montrachet here is a sublime expression of the vineyard no doubt destined to age with grace and style. That is what matters. You may have noticed there is no Montrachet note here. The reason is not personal. Just that there is so little that it is being matured in a specially made small barrel, which renders the elevage extremely sensitive and fragile (see Frederic Barnier’s comments about his Criots-Batard-Montrachet.) I would not want to ruin what little there is for the sake of vanity. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 2003

Rating: 91 –93

Buttered toast and sweet white fruits can be found in the aromatics of the 2003 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet (white). Armed with outstanding depth of fruit, this dense, lush, layered wine releases waves of candied minerals and pulp-laden pears on the palate. Medium-bodied and velvety-textured, it also possesses an impressively long finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 1999

Rating: 89 –91

Rich almond aromas emerge from the 1999 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet. Medium-bodied and oily-textured, it is ample, plump, and has excellent grip. Its flavor profile, composed of white and yellow fruits intermingled with nuts, lasts throughout the finish. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; (707) 963-9661.

robert_parker 1998

Rating: 88 –88

As I had experienced a great deal of difficulty tasting through Domaine Leflaive's 1998s a year ago due to their high levels of sulphur, Anne-Claude Leflaive was kind enough to allow me to retaste them. The wine was opened two hours prior to my tasting it. The 1998 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet exhibits toasted mineral aromas. It has an excellent attack and mid-palate, yet leads to a somewhat dry finish. Fat, medium-bodied, and complex, this wine tastes older than it is. Spices, dried honey-laced minerals, and touches of spice cake can be discerned in its flavor profile. It is delicious to drink today, as its personality would merit an outstanding score were it not for its finish, yet readers should note that it will require near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; (707) 963-9661.

robert_parker 2000

Rating: 92 –93

Produced from 45-year-old vines (the oldest of the estate), the 2000 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet sports a sexy, tropical fruit-scented nose. This is an extravagant wine with a broad, hugely intense flavor profile, packed with spices, minerals, and toasted oak. It is exuberant, crammed with fruit, and long. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 2001

Rating: 87 –89

Sexy, ripe, toasty anise aromas emanate from the glass of the 2001 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet. Its attack is delightfully plump, revealing toasted minerals and spices in a lush, sensual manner. Regrettably, this wine lacks the necessary concentration, depth, and length for an outstanding score. Projected maturity: now-2007. To Pierre Morey, Domaine Leflaive’s winemaker, “2001 was not an easy vintage, but it made our work that much more interesting. Our vines faced rot, hail, heat (that burned some grapes), cold, then the onset of botrytis, making us sort grape by grape.” He went on to add, “so we knew on August 3rd, the day after the hail storm, that it was a sorting vintage . . . our next surprise was the acid balance, in which we found we had normal tartaric numbers but high malic acid, making the wines difficult to taste. We opted for an extended elevage, to get the noses to express themselves and the bodies to fill out.” According to Morey, all of the domaine’s Puligny parcels were struck by hail, having lost 20% of their production of Folatieres, slightly less in other parcels. Yields, though lower than in both 1999 and 2000, came in between 40 and 45 hectoliters per hectare, after the work on the sorting tables. When I asked Mr. Morey, a deeply honest man, whether he liked the 2001s, he said, “it’s not my favorite vintage of the last 10 years, but an interesting one, I’m intrigued to see how they will age and when they will be at their best.” Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 2002

Rating: 91 –93

Light to medium-bodied, precise, and elegant, the 2002 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet offers a nose of pears, spices, and anise. Minerals, toast, and stones can be found in its intense, crystalline, concentrated personality. Projected maturity: 2006-2014. To Pierre Morey, the 2002s are “from normal yields and reflect their terroir, two signs of a great vintage.” He went on to add, “Though it was an easy year in the vineyard without any burnt grapes, freezes, or hail, I’ll admit we were very worried between the twentieth of August and tenth of September, when the weather was wet and dreary. Thankfully, we were saved by the north wind.” He added that in 2003, Puligny-Montrachet had battled freeze, multiple hailstorms, and oidium (powdery mildew). Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

robert_parker 1995

Rating: 91 –93

Displaying candied spices on the nose, the Bienvenue Batard Montrachet possesses a fat, oily, powerful mouth densely packed with intense toasted fruits and minerals. This extremely well-balanced, full-bodied wine should be held for a minimum of 4 years, and enthusiastically consumed over the subsequent decade. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Ratings with a range of scores in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. The wines at the domaine are made by Meursault's Pierre Morey. I was impressed with the relationship he has with Madame Leflaive. The two openly share their thoughts, completely respecting each other's opinions. In most cellars there is an obviously dominant player, but at Domaine Leflaive it is a team effort. The wines spend on average 11 months in oak before being placed in stainless steel tanks for another 7 to 9 months (the Montrachet is never removed from oak). The domaine averaged 25 hectoliters/hectare in 1995 - less than 2 tons of fruit per acre. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.

robert_parker 1997

Rating: 91 –92

The 1997 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet possesses a much more austere nose than the Pucelles. With coaxing, it reluctantly displays white flowers, almonds, and citrus fruits. This broad, medium-to-full-bodied, undeniably rich wine boasts a delicious array of minerals, clay, toast, stones and toasty pears. It is silky-textured, well-focused, concentrated, and combines impressive ripeness with balance. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2008+. Importer: Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA; (707) 963-9661.

james_suckling 2017

Rating: 97 –97

Ripe-pear and intensely flinty aromas mingle in the nose of this youthful white Burgundy. Powerful tannin structure on the sleek and very focused palate with delicate candied orange on the creamy mid-palate. Then radical minerality bursts out at the very concentrated and long finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.

james_suckling 2012

Rating: 90 –90

Fully developed nose with plenty of bitter orange and bergamot, plus some summer-meadow character. Very mature, full-bodied palate with an intense, bready character. The firm tannins hold all this together, but will not suit everyone’s palate. Just enough acidity. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink now.