Critic ratings
vinous
2019
Rating:
92
–94
The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées 1er Cru is quite reticent on the nose with lemon thyme and light blackcurrant leaf aromas. Lovely definition, fresh and focused with a touch of sour lemon, the lemongrass note on the finish extends its persistency. Superb.
vinous
2016
Rating:
89
–92
(from redder soil over rock; 30 hectoliters per hectare produced): Pale yellow. Aromas of iodine, crushed rock and spicy oak. Chewy and densely packed but quite backward, currently dominated by wet stone and mineral notes. Finishes powerful but youthfully austere, with a repeating wet stone character. Lamy has been planting part of this vineyard at high density, but this fruit is not yet part of the wine. (Incidentally, Lamy did not make a Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macharelles in 2016 owing to the frost.)
vinous
2020
Rating:
91
–91
The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées 1er Cru shows a little reduction on the nose, touches of hazelnut and struck flint, opening nicely in the glass and gaining more intensity. The palate is taut and nimble, fresh and saline, more elegant than the Les Macherelles but without the same horsepower towards the finish. Still, it will drink well for 12-15 years.
robert_parker
2018
Rating:
92
–94
The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is especially good this year, and Lamy tells me that he has started rolling the canopies in this parcel instead of hedging them. Offering up aromas of fresh peach, citrus oil and pear, as well as delicate top notes of white flowers, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered, enveloping profile and a long mineral finish. This might well be the best Chaumées that Lamy has produced to date.
robert_parker
2020
Rating:
94
–94
Planted at 20,000 vines per hectare but not yet deemed mature enough to merit the "Haute Densité" moniker on the label, Lamy's 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is his best to date from this site, bursting with aromas of pear, citrus zest, smoke and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a long, saline finish.
robert_parker
2015
Rating:
89
–91
The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées comes from vines on the mother limestone where the vines suffer more stress, the vines planted between 1970 and 1989. It has a delightful bouquet with touches of peach skin complementing the citrus fruit, fine delineation and a palpable sense of energy. The palate is well balanced with good depth, just a faint touch of wild honey here accompanying the citrus fruit with a touch of toffee apple on the finish. Very fine, though I wager that is probably suitable for more earlier drinking compared to other releases this year from Olivier.
robert_parker
2017
Rating:
90
–92
The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is a great success, unfurling in the glass with notions of honeyed citrus fruit, white flowers and crushed chalk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, saline and tangy, built around a bright line of animating acidity that carries through the long, mouthwateringly chalky finish.
robert_parker
2012
Rating:
91
–93
The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumees is another new addition for Olivier from Vincent Jolin. It has a life-affirming, expressive, mineral-laden bouquet that outshines the Macherelles 2012. The palate is again, very expressive with crisp lime and fresh pear flavors that melt away toward its elegant and cohesive finish with a long saline aftertaste. Watch out for this gem after release.
Arriving on a sodden, overcast Tuesday afternoon at Domaine Hubert Lamy, I stumbled upon Olivier Lamy shovelling a large pile of grape skins onto a moving conveyor. In stark contrast to the idyllic vistas of sun-kissed vineyards and smiling vignerons, it was a pertinent reminder that great wines are the product of hard labor, often tedious, backbreaking, laborious work. Once he had finished we retired to the red wine barrel cellar, only to find so much carbonic gas from the fermenting 2013s that I found it difficult to breath. There was nothing to do but type my observations for the reds al fresco and under a light drizzle. Despite all this, it was a pleasure to visit a winery that is functioning instead of standing idle, to hear the whisper of fizz-popping fermenting barrels next to me, perhaps waiting for their turn next year. I have been following Hubert Lamy’s wines for around a decade now and in that time, I have grown to appreciate him as one of the leading exponents of Cote de Beaune whites. Who else would labor over increasing the density of some of his vineyards to 20,000 plants per hectare? I asked what he had gleaned from this experiment. Olivier told me that the vines tend to ripen a little quicker than the regular plantings with better natural acidity levels. He is also expanding his holdings, having recently acquired parcels from Vincent Jolin (the cousin of Aubert de Villaine) that include Clos des Gravieres in Santenay. I tasted his 2012s from barrel apropos the reds and from stainless steel vats for the whites. Olivier commenced picking from September 16 with the young vines and September 18 for the “grown-ups,” completing the vendange eight days later. While I would not ascribe superlatives for every single one of his crus, they are (as usual) intermittently brilliant and often intellectual. Though his quartet of reds is commendable, it is his whites that truly excel, from his entry-level Bourgogne Blanc up to his impossibly rare Criots-Batard-Montrachet. As I expected, Olivier’s range of Saint Aubin village and premier crus are particularly strong, certainly representing more affordable alternatives to Puligny-Montrachets from other growers. His “Haut Densite” bottlings have expanded from one to three crus, including the aforementioned Grand Cru for the first time. They are definitely worth seeking out for expressions of Burgundy terroir are high-density plantings of 20,000 per hectare, though they will not be easy to track down, limited as they are to just one barrel each.
Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)
robert_parker
2013
Rating:
90
–92
The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru les Chaumées has a crisp, chalky, Puligny-like nose in the making. The palate is crisp and taut with fine tension, well-integrated new oak with a tender slightly peachy finish that fans out beautifully. There is an abiding sense of harmony here completing what is a sophisticated Chassagne-Montrachet.