Henri Boillot, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2016

vinous 2019

Rating: 91 –93

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, one of Boillot’s strongest wines, has a delightful bouquet with well-defined scents of dried honey, hazelnut and crushed rock, quite Meursault-like in style. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, not amazingly complex overall, yet I admire its tension and length, with quite a persistent spicy aftertaste. Very fine.

vinous 2011

Rating: 96 –96

An utterly mesmerizing wine, the 2011 Corton-Charlemagne conquers all of the senses with its grace and harmony. Lemon oil, white flowers, pears and crushed rocks are some of the many notes that are woven together in the glass. The 2011 is perfumed, sublime and drop-dead gorgeous from the very first taste. With time, though, the wine blossoms beautifully as it fills out its broad-shouldered frame with tons of style.

vinous 2011

Rating: 94 –96

This flight of 2011s comes to a close with the 2011 Corton-Charlemagne, a cool, introspective and powerful wine. Layers of bright citrus, mint and crushed rocks fill out the wine's big, broad-shouldered frame nicely. The intense, tight finish suggests the Corton-Charlemagne is going to require a measure of patience.

vinous 2011

Rating: 92 –92

(13.8% alcohol): Pale straw-yellow. Very reduced nose hints at very ripe stone fruits, ginger, smoke and petrol. Round, sweet and quite ripe but a bit warm, and not currently showing the lift or grip of classic Corton-Charlemagne. This wine is lower in acidity than the 2012 version and comes across as rather outsized. I was blown away by a barrel sample a year ago but today this bottle does not show the energy I found last spring.

vinous 2011

Rating: 93 –96

(4.45 acidity and 3.10 pH): Bright light yellow. Highly complex and expressive aromas of citrus peel, menthol, crushed stone and tarragon accented by ginger and nutmeg. Powerful, tactile and ripe, conveying an impression of tightly coiled energy to its lightly saline apple and dusty stone flavors. Superb energy here. This very masculine Corton-Charlemagne finishes with firm tannins. Boillot's top grand crus should turn out to be among the stars of the 2011 vintage.

vinous 2016

Rating: 93 –96

(75% new oak; 4.4 grams per liter acidity; from vines in Aloxe, which Boillot picked last in 2016 before starting on Pinot Noir): Bright light-medium yellow. Subtly complex, musky aromas of peach, caraway seed, nutmeg, mace and hazelnutty lees. At once densely packed and penetrating, with a stony citric pungency giving precision to the seamless middle palate and cutting through the wine's texture. Wonderfully pure and energetic for this cuvée, finishing tactile and unflagging, with terrific citrus lift. This has the palate-staining length and structure for a slow and graceful evolution in bottle; it's also the only 2016 here that struck me as tannic, but then classic Corton-Charlemagne typically shows structure more like a red wine.

vinous 2018

The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was completely corked. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting.

vinous 2018

Rating: 93 –93

The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a gentle bouquet that unfurls in the glass, revealing orange pith, quince and light walnut aromas. The palate is well balanced with a sappy opening, a fine bead of acidity with a cohesive, ginger tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. Very fine - it conveys a sense of completeness that is missing in some other examples from this Grand Cru site.

robert_parker 2021

Rating: 92 –94

Taut and structured, the 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru delivers aromas of citrus zest, freshly baked bread and white flowers, followed by a full-bodied, satiny palate that's chalky and incisive, concluding with a penetrating finish. This cuvée is acquired in grapes and pressed by Boillot.

robert_parker 2019

Rating: 95 –95

Produced from purchased grapes, the 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is serious and structured, enforcing a change of pace after the series of Puligny-Montrachet grands crus. Mingling notes of pear and citrus oil with hints of toasted bread, white flowers and praline, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and chalky, with palpable structuring dry extract and tangy balancing acids.

robert_parker 2018

Rating: 95 –95

The most youthfully reserved wine in the cellar was the 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, a promising bottling that opens up to reveal scents of citrus zest, dried white flowers, green apple and pastry cream. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with racy acids and prodigious levels of searingly chalky dry extract that lend this wine incredible structure.

robert_parker 2012

Rating: 93 –93

The 2012 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is well-defined on the nose that opens up with freshly sliced lime, beeswax and honeysuckle aromas. The palate is well-balanced with good weight on the entry. This is a mouth-filling Corton-Charlemagne armed with impressive fruit intensity and tension toward the citrus-driven finish. Excellent! Drink now-2025. Importers: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769, Cynthia Hurley French Wines, West Newton, MA Tel 617-965-4251 www.cynthiahurley.com and Chelsea Ventures, LLC, 1601 South Canal St, Chicago, IL 60616 tel. 847-920-5052. Also through several importers in the UK.

robert_parker 2012

Rating: 91 –91

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru from Henri Boillot has quite a powerful bouquet with touches of dried honey and yellow flowers, though you have to swerve around noticeable reduction. The palate has decent weight, quite forward in the mouth with bitter lemon and dried orange peel notes. The finish is missing finesse and poise at first but it recovers to a degree if not quite fulfilling all its ambition. Give it a couple more years to find its groove.

robert_parker 2011

Rating: 88 –88

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. There is a slight reduction on the nose of Henri Boillot’ 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, but it opens nicely with citrus peel, mineral and sunflower seeds, gaining in intensity all the time. The palate is fresh and harmonious with a keen thread of acidity. This is well balanced, perhaps a little Puligny in style with a slightly bitter and abrupt finish. Not a bad wine, but not the best from Henri Boillot in this vintage.

robert_parker 2011

Rating: 94 –96

This flight of 2011s comes to a close with the 2011 Corton-Charlemagne, a cool, introspective and powerful wine. Layers of bright citrus, mint and crushed rocks fill out the wine’s big, broad-shouldered frame nicely. The intense, tight finish suggests the Corton-Charlemagne is going to require a measure of patience. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Not yet released) Henri Boillot recently finished his move to a new modern cellar in Champ Lins, one of the industrial sections of Meursault. Boillot describes his 2011s as having a bit more richness and better balance of fruit and acidity than the 2010s. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Boillot seems to be one case where the 2011s have the potential to be better across the board than the 2010s. As is often the case here, the village wines are particularly strong. Importers: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769, Cynthia Hurley French Wines, West Newton, MA Tel 617-965-4251 www.cynthiahurley.com and Chelsea Ventures, LLC, 1601 South Canal St, Chicago, IL 60616 tel. 847-920-5052

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 95 –95

The 2009 Corton-Charlemagne is the first grand cru in this vintage that is truly breathtaking. It shows off fabulous detail and nuance, with a crystalline expression of fruit, expressive floral notes and tons of minerality. The aroms and flavors flow effortlessly to a precise, chiseled finish that is stunning. This is a dazzling effort from Henri Boillot, and should not be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. This is a beautiful set of wines from Henri Boillot’s negociant line. The entry-level wines in particular offer fabulous value. If anything, those are the most interesting wines here. When tasting Burgundy it is tempting to assume that premier crus are better than villages, and grand crus are better than the premiers, but that is often not the case, especially in a warm vintage where lesser sites ripened to a greate extent than is typically possible. Shrewd readers will find many jewels in this lineup, but they won’t be in the most likely places. In 2011 Boillot will have several new wines in his range, including Referts and Combettes. The 2009 villages were bottled in November, while the premier crus were bottled in January 2011. Importer: Various US importers, including Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 90 –90

The nose on the Corton-Charlemagne is well-defined but perhaps a little reticent compared to the 2008 last year. The palate is well-defined with crisp citrus fruit and dried orange peel/passion fruit, but it does not quite “sing” as it should. Tasted January 2011.

robert_parker 2007

Rating: 97 –97

Once again we are confronted with the paradox of a 2007 Corton-Charlemagne (here harvested late in the third week of September at 13% natural alcohol) that its producer proffers after the other, far more expensive grand crus. But rather than try to make sense of this situation, I recommend you just try to get hold of some bottles of the wine! The notion of "dynamic interchange" comes up repeatedly in attempting to explain what makes the best 2007 white Burgundies so exciting, and there is no better expression to use here, either. This wine is like a complex and graceful ballet between groups of dancers marked "fruit," "mineral," "floral," and "animal." These players include pear, apricot, and lime; chalk, white pepper, salt crustacean shell reduction, chicken broth, and a carpet of flowers: in short, the usual suspects. And here, too, we have soothing and seductive creaminess combined with refreshment, transparency to nuance, and electric energy (even though soothing seduction is not usually delivered by youthful Corton Charlemagne). This possesses all of these features, but to an exceptional degree, as well as a sense of purity and lift somehow perfectly compatible with detonative finishing intensity. As explained in my report in issue 180, Henri Boillot’s domaine is now legally known by his name rather than that of his father Jean, and is thus eponymous with his negociant business. Furthermore, given what seems to be a stylistic convergence as well as given Boillot's own preference in presenting his wines this year, I have folded together the coverage of these two entities, noting in the text of my notes those wines that come from the domaine. Boillot did not begin picking until the second week in September, harvesting fruit that he reported required only occasional, minimal chaptalization and had higher tartaric than malic acid, in contrast to their proportions in 2008. Since Boillot managed to achieve his ideals of “precision and minerality” even in the ripe 2006 vintage, it will come as no surprise that they have been brilliantly achieved in 2007. A preference for volume of healthy lees rather than their stirring and (as mentioned in my report on his 2006s) the utilization of 350-liter barrels rather than barriques are surely among the factors that permit these wines to marry richness with refreshment and clarity. On the other hand, even the wines of lesser appellation that receive less barrel exposure are still given extended time on their fine lees in tank before bottling, Boillot being a believer that "time is of the essence" to great white Burgundy, not in the proverbial sense but rather in that of taking enough if it. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724

vinous 2017

Rating: 92 –92

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is another example where I feel there are some sulfur issues on the nose, though they are slight and should integrate with time. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, taut and fresh, leading to a spicy, ginger-tinged finish. This showed marked improvement in the glass. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

vinous 2017

Rating: 92 –95

Pale, bright yellow. Pristine but reticent aromas of yellow peach, smoky silex and spices; this wine is never in a fruity style, says Boillot. At once saline in an oyster shell way and sweet in the mouth, but buffered by rocky minerality. This powerful, bracing wine is certainly not about fruit. Finishing with an element of tannic structure that reminded me of a red wine, this wine is hard to assess today but already shows outstanding saline length. Boillot picked this fruit on September 1, at the end of his harvest.

robert_parker 2014

Rating: 94 –94

The 2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a clean, well defined bouquet with hints of almond and white chocolate, although I was seeking a little more personality to come through. The palate shows the nose how it's done and it is probably more indicative: spice, ginger, almond, citrus fruit and a touch of white peach. This is very complex and the more you remain in its presence, the more it wins you over. Cellar this for 4-5 years and you should have a very fine Corton Charlemagne on your hands, but it covets its secrets for now.

robert_parker 2017

Rating: 93 –95

The superb 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru exhibits a youthfully reserved bouquet of lemon oil, white flowers, smoky reduction and wet stones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and phenolic, with chewy extract and almost tannic structure, that is more in keeping with a red wine, rather than a white. Long, focused and incisive, it's a mineral expression of Corton-Charlemagne that's built for the cellar.

robert_parker 2009

Rating: 95 –95

The 2009 Corton-Charlemagne is the first grand cru in this vintage that is truly breathtaking. It shows off fabulous detail and nuance, with a crystalline expression of fruit, expressive floral notes and tons of minerality. The aroms and flavors flow effortlessly to a precise, chiseled finish that is stunning. This is a dazzling effort from Henri Boillot, and should not be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. This is a beautiful set of wines from Henri Boillot’s negociant line. The entry-level wines in particular offer fabulous value. If anything, those are the most interesting wines here. When tasting Burgundy it is tempting to assume that premier crus are better than villages, and grand crus are better than the premiers, but that is often not the case, especially in a warm vintage where lesser sites ripened to a greate extent than is typically possible. Shrewd readers will find many jewels in this lineup, but they won’t be in the most likely places. In 2011 Boillot will have several new wines in his range, including Referts and Combettes. The 2009 villages were bottled in November, while the premier crus were bottled in January 2011. Importer: Various US importers, including Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

robert_parker 2010

Rating: 94 –94

Boillot’s 2010 Corton-Charlemagne comes across as laid back and understated in this vintage, although the fruit seems to gain an additional measure of volume on the mid-palate and finish. Above all else, it is the wine’s striking inner perfume and finessed personality that stand out most. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Not yet released) Henri Boillot recently finished his move to a new modern cellar in Champ Lins, one of the industrial sections of Meursault. Boillot describes his 2011s as having a bit more richness and better balance of fruit and acidity than the 2010s. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Boillot seems to be one case where the 2011s have the potential to be better across the board than the 2010s. As is often the case here, the village wines are particularly strong. Importers: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769, Cynthia Hurley French Wines, West Newton, MA Tel 617-965-4251 www.cynthiahurley.com and Chelsea Ventures, LLC, 1601 South Canal St, Chicago, IL 60616 tel. 847-920-5052

robert_parker 2011

Rating: 88 –88

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. There is a slight reduction on the nose of Henri Boillot’ 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, but it opens nicely with citrus peel, mineral and sunflower seeds, gaining in intensity all the time. The palate is fresh and harmonious with a keen thread of acidity. This is well balanced, perhaps a little Puligny in style with a slightly bitter and abrupt finish. Not a bad wine, but not the best from Henri Boillot in this vintage.

robert_parker 2013

Rating: 91 –93

From vines located around Aloxe-Corton, the 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a lifted bouquet with scents of clear honey, yellow plum and limestone, linear in a Puligny style. The palate is clean and fresh with touches of spice on the entry. There is good weight in the mouth, crisp and almost terse toward the finish, with a pleasant saline note on the aftertaste. This is a fine Corton-Charlemagne.

robert_parker 2006

Rating: 94 –95

Boillot boldly presented his 2006 Corton-Charlemagne after his rich grand crus from around Montrachet - presumably a measure of his confidence in its quality. Fresh lime, high-toned herbal distillates, kirsch, and brown spices in the nose lead to a cool, refreshing, herbal, chalky palate impression and a finish of incredible grip: chalky, saline, savory, and with faintly bitter hints of cherry pit. This is very Chablis-like, but in its striking mineral expression and its brightness, more like a super premier cru Chablis than a grand cru. Once again, Boillot has managed to capture an energy, concentration, and finishing penetration that are exceptional even by the standards of this outstanding vintage. I anticipate this being worth following for a dozen years, if not longer. Henri Boillot's ambitious and burgeoning negociant arm is made up in large part of many small bottling lots, representing remarkably many of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. -Precision and minerality- are words he offers to explain his intentions even in a vintage as ripe as 2006, and for the most part he walks the accompanying walk, with wines (largely assembled in tank) that showed more generously and expressively than did Boillot's estate wines on the same day. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724

james_suckling 2017

Rating: 91 –91

This is a bold and richly textured wine for a Grand Cru site that’s famous for raciness and a rather sleek body. Plenty of banana puree and candied orange character with a touch of fresh garlic. Powerful, but with quite a fresh acidity at the slightly weighty finish. Drink now.