robert_parker 2009
Rating: 87 –87
The Grans-Fassian 2009 Riesling trocken Mineralschiefer boasts an impressive conjunction of stuffing with refreshment and (at 11.5% alcohol) a certain sense of levity. Slightly rough-hewn in texture, it cannot be faulted for the degree to which it seems to leave both palpable and taste-able traces of the stuff advertised in its name. I would employ this over the next 2-3 years, with care due to its austerity and relatively pronounced acidity. Gerhard Grans compares 2009 at his estate with 1990 for its combination of high ripeness with strong acidity and little botrytis. Fermentations were nearly all very long this year by estate standards, with few of even the sweet wines finishing up until shortly before their May bottling. Grans persists in his staunch defense of Grosses Gewachs and in general of legally trocken bottlings – which collectively make up around half of his production – maintaining that such a dry format is best for emphasizing the mineral dimensions of Riesling from his great sites. (Note that due to a recent change in importers, no suggested retail prices were yet available for these Grans-Fassian 2009s.) Importers in future will include: Old Vine Imports, Petaluma, CA; (707) 769-1745