Critic ratings
robert_parker
2019
Rating:
93
–93
From a southeast-facing plot, the 2019 Sancerre La Côte is pure, deep and intense yet also fresh on the iodine-scented nose, with grip, lemon and tropical notes. The wine opens bright, clear and almost tropical on the nose and then shows tight, tense and lingering salinity and firm grip. Tasted in February 2021.
robert_parker
2014
Rating:
93
–93
The 2014 Sancerre La Côte is very clear and aromatic on the nose and displays stony as well as fruity flavors along with flinty and lemony flavors. Full-bodied, very pure, vital and salty on the palate, this is a firmly structured and refreshingly grippy and salty wine with bright fruit favors and a long, tension-filled but also charming finish.
robert_parker
2011
Rating:
91
–92
Representing the second annual installment of wine from 15-year-old vines in a sweet spot on the Grand Cote, Boulay’s 2011 Sancerre La Cote was a bit oxidative at the moment when I tasted it, about to be sulfured before bottling. But if anything, on a portion of this bottling that enhances a sense of nutty richness that will no doubt continue to complement the citrus oil piquancy and lusciously succulent melon and peach fruit that abound. Huckleberry and grapefruit rind add bitter notes of counterpoint to the protracted, generously fruited finish of a wine likely to be worth following for at least 6-8 years.
Gerard Boulay, like Thomas Labaille, has just moved into his own spacious new warehouse-like facility along the main road from Chavignol to Sancerre. He is thrilled to at last not be constrained by tight cellar facilities, as well as to have a common location where he can show and sell, as well as raise his young wines. There has seldom, if ever, been a finer pair of vintages back to back here than 2010 and 2011, which among other things fully vindicates Boulay’s decision – which might initially have seemed too eager – to proliferate progressively more expensive cuvees. At the same time, the basic bottlings from this address – in pink as well as white – remain consistently outstanding values. (Granted, 2009 is the exception that proves the rule.) It’s a pleasure to witness the buzz beginning at last to collect both in France and abroad around this diligent grower whose wines for so long far-excelled his modest reputation. (Full disclosure: In my previous profession, I was an early importer of Boulay’s wines ... but as such, I have also had chance to taste lots of old wines from this cellar, and thus know whereof I speak!) Boulay picked from September 3-14, 2011 and began on the 25th in 2010. As if to make amends for nature’s 2009 naughtiness and any complicity for which he might have felt responsible, Boulay’s bottlings in both subsequent vintages are notably low in alcohol, rarely exceeding 13%.
Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
robert_parker
2010
Rating:
92
–92
Introducing a new cuvee from 15-year-old vines in an especially promising section of Chavignol’s Grand Cote (think: Cotat) Boulay has rendered a 2010 Sancerre La Cote. Even in this site, the wine weighs in at just over 13% alcohol, whereas Boulay managed to keep levels substantially lower in his other bottlings. Fuller and richer this may be than its stable mates, but it also reveals a fine sense of transparency to nuances of lily-of-the-valley and iris perfume, and to shimmering mineral nuance. Grapefruit and white currant offer sap, vivacity, and pungency; and this finishes lusciously, yet invigoratingly, thanks to persistent florality and the impingement of citrus zest, white pepper, chalk, and pungent herbs. It should be worth following for a dozen or more years.
Gerard Boulay, like Thomas Labaille, has just moved into his own spacious new warehouse-like facility along the main road from Chavignol to Sancerre. He is thrilled to at last not be constrained by tight cellar facilities, as well as to have a common location where he can show and sell, as well as raise his young wines. There has seldom, if ever, been a finer pair of vintages back to back here than 2010 and 2011, which among other things fully vindicates Boulay’s decision – which might initially have seemed too eager – to proliferate progressively more expensive cuvees. At the same time, the basic bottlings from this address – in pink as well as white – remain consistently outstanding values. (Granted, 2009 is the exception that proves the rule.) It’s a pleasure to witness the buzz beginning at last to collect both in France and abroad around this diligent grower whose wines for so long far-excelled his modest reputation. (Full disclosure: In my previous profession, I was an early importer of Boulay’s wines ... but as such, I have also had chance to taste lots of old wines from this cellar, and thus know whereof I speak!) Boulay picked from September 3-14, 2011 and began on the 25th in 2010. As if to make amends for nature’s 2009 naughtiness and any complicity for which he might have felt responsible, Boulay’s bottlings in both subsequent vintages are notably low in alcohol, rarely exceeding 13%.
Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29