Critic ratings
vinous
2020
Rating:
94
–94
The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée 1er Cru has a very perfumed bouquet with yellow fruit, white peach and pressed white flower aromas. The palate is well balanced with fine salinity, quite linear and reserved at first, yet the intensity is delivered on the back end with a vivacious, stem ginger-tinged finish that leaves the mouth tingling. Superb.
robert_parker
2018
Rating:
93
–93
Wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, white flowers, beeswax and a light touch of reduction that might be derived from this sample bottle's Diam closure, the 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée is medium to full-bodied, layered and muscular. Underpinned by lively acids, this is the most complete and concentrated premier cru in the range this year.
robert_parker
2014
Rating:
93
–93
The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru la Romanée was showing more fruit intensity than the Caillerets when I tasted it from barrel, hints of citrus peel, Mirabelle and jasmine gently wafting from the glass. The palate is crisp and taut with the edginess of the Boudriotte, demonstrating the same weight and intensity on the finish that is long and satisfying. This is a harmonious, engaging and “complete” Chassagne-Montrachet.
robert_parker
2015
Rating:
91
–93
The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée has great precision and vitality on the nose, one of the most terroir-articulate offerings by the domaine in this vintage. This is easily the best aromatics within Fontaine-Gagnard's Chassagnes. The palate is very lively with crisp acidity, full of tension with a brisk, mineral-driven finish. You can just feel the energy bouncing off the tastebuds here, a superb wine in the making, especially given that this was never supposed to be a great white Burgundy vintage à la 2014.
robert_parker
2017
Rating:
94
–94
The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée is more reserved than the Caillerets, unfurling in the glass with notes of pear, crisp melon, white flowers, beeswax and crushed chalk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegantly satiny and multidimensional, with lovely purity, a tight-knit core and a long, mineral finish.
robert_parker
2009
Rating:
94
–94
The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee is another marvelously complete, harmonious white from Fontaine-Gagnard. Soft, plush and seamless, it possesses striking purity its round fruit. There is a level of depth and transparency here that is truly remarkable. All of the elements are present in the glass, but this isn’t an immediate wine, rather it is a wine that invites contemplation. An intensely mineral finish rounds things out in style. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.
Richard Fontaine began harvesting the 2009s on September 6. The malos were fairly quick and were completed by April 2010. The wines were racked in June and bottled in early September. Perhaps it is inevitable with a total of ten different Chassagne premier crus in the lineup, but in this vintage not all of the wines are markedly different from each other.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446
robert_parker
2010
Rating:
93
–93
The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee is another beautifully balanced wine. The 2010 has an element of roundness and general expressiveness in the fruit that separates it from some of the other wines here. It strikes a compelling middle ground between the richer and more ethereal wines in the range. Layers of fruit caress the palate on the sweet, inviting finish. The openness and pure resonance in the 2010 are compelling. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.
I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Fontaine-Gagnard. The 2010s are rich, deep and racy, but also show tremendous transparency with regards to site and have a little more polish than is customary. Celine Fontaine told me she was very surprised by the concentration of the wines given the poor weather during the summer, but that, ultimately, it was the small size of the berries that played a big role in giving the wines their personalities. The harvest started on September 21. All of the 2010s were bottled in August 2011. Although I did not taste any of the reds, Fontaine also told me a number of the estate’s Pinot vineyards were heavily affected by the December 2009 frost and required replanting.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446
robert_parker
2012
Rating:
92
–92
The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanee always has the highest acidity level and takes the longest to ripen. It comes from a 0.36-hectare parcel vines with unknown age. It has a fragrant, very elegant bouquet with apricot blossom and veins of dried mango infusing the citrus fruit. The palate is crisp and taut, the mineralite more pronounced with a taut, delineated, more linear finish than the Cailleret. This is an outstanding Chassagne-Montrachet.
I’ve been smitten by the wines of this Chassagne producer ever since winemaker Celine Gagnard poured me a hauntingly beautiful Criots-Batard-Montrachet in London several years ago. Celine is one of those immediately likeable winemakers: an outgoing personality with an uncommon side order of self-deprecating humor, frankness and self-confessed chattiness. There is directness in her approach that is refreshing. It probably stems from her father Richard, an air force mechanic who upon meeting his wife Laurence Gagnard, dropped everything to study winemaking. Together they established their own domaine initially through rented parcels and debuted with the 1985 vintage. They now have an impressive portfolio as Laurence’s father Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange has handed down parcels so that they presently own an enviable trove of Chassagne premier crus. Celine did not dither in expounding her views upon organic winemaking, de rigueur amongst vignerons. She is adamant that the practice is leaving too many copper deposits in the vineyard. Good point – one rarely addressed. And whereas many winemakers are gently dialing down the level of new oak, here at Fontaine-Gagnard it is part of the intrinsic character of the wines, not that they showed excessive use. To this end, at Fontaine-Gagnard they venture into the forest to select their own wood that is dried in Richard’s garden for two years, governing the drying process so that they get exactly what they want. “We used more new oak this vintage on both whites and reds. The flowering was worse in Chassagne than in Volnay. On 17 May we suffered frost damage in higher terroirs. We believe we need to have the best healthy grapes at harvest time and for that we need products when the pressure is hard. After all, we live in a climate with a lot of rain. We have seen a high concentration of copper in organically farmed vineyards.” Here, the pickers picked up their secateurs on 19 September and put them down again on 24 September. Celine explained that there was little sorting to do because it had been done all in the vineyard, either naturally or through vineyard husbandry. As I mentioned, I am not one to pull my punches from overuse of new oak, but here at Fontaine-Gagnard, they have always had the knack of assimilating it into the wine so that it is barely noticeable. Broaching the whites first, we tasted through the complete range except for their single barrel Montrachet that had already been bottled, through Celine generously opened a 2011 that I left to one side because it was so closed. As I mentioned, there is a clutch of stupendous premier crus here, especially from the calcareous soils on the higher reaches of the slope such as “La Romanee” and “Cailleret”. The only downside is that they border the forest and wild boars have taken to nibbling some of the La Romanee berries. They don’t even leave a tasting note. Crowned by two superb grand crus, “Queen Criots” and “King Batard,” the whites overshadow their reds that tend to be more rustic and easy drinking, not substandard wines by any means, but rarely the main event. This brings me back to that Montrachet 2011 that was waiting patiently for its turn. A couple of hours later I return to my hotel and switch on my laptop. I discover the Word document open and ready for a note never written, the poured Montrachet snubbed by us both. Doh! Both Celine and I had been chewing the fat so much that I forgot it. I just hope she enjoyed the rest of the bottle that evening?assuming that she noticed herself.
Importer: Polaner Selections, 19 North Moger Avenue, Mount Kisco, NY 10549Phone:(914) 244-0404 and through various UK merchants such as Berry Brothers & Rudd and OW Loeb.
robert_parker
2013
Rating:
92
–92
The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru la Romanée is broody and much more taciturn than the Caillerets, which is typical according to Céline. There are limestone scents here, touches of wet granite. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry and then it fans out with lightly honeyed citrus fruit. It remains focused, feels long and tender in the mouth, though perhaps the Caillerets just has the edge apropos complexity. Whatever, you still would not kick this out of bed in the morning.
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
90
–90
The 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee displays fresh talcum powder and floral aromas. Medium-bodied, dense, and deep, it is a harmonious, rich, plump, and extroverted offering. Layers of red and white berries as well as pears dominate this lovely wine's personality.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.
james_suckling
2014
Rating:
88
–88
This is rather acidic and rancio with orange and lemon peel. Tangy. Full and oily. A little dysfunctional. Drink now.