Critic ratings
vinous
2011
Rating:
90
–90
The 2011 Batard-Montrachet comes across as quite soft in this vintage. Hints of lime, ginger, honey, apricots and white flowers develop as the wine opens up, but I don’t quite see the pure depth or intensity of the very best years. Batard is usually a powerful wine, but there isn't much of that here. I expect the 2011 to offer its best drinking sooner rather than later.
vinous
2020
Rating:
96
–96
The 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru conveys more tension and mineralité on the nose than the Criots, very well defined with wet limestone mixed with citrus fruit and apple blossom. The palate is medium-bodied with fine delineation, taut and fresh with a saline finish that has a lovely edginess. With great persistent and poise, this is a very impressive Bâtard-Montrachet.
robert_parker
2018
Rating:
94
–94
Blockier and denser than the Criots, the 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with scents of honeycomb, orange oil, white flowers and toasted nuts. Full-bodied, fleshy and textural, it's lively and long, its rich core of fruit underpinned by ripe acids. Broad-shouldered and expressive, this will drink well sooner than the tighter-knit 2017.
robert_parker
2014
Rating:
91
–93
The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru maybe does not quite possess the same precision as the Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet at the moment. There is a hint of wild mint that develops with time, some dried orange peel, even a light touch of fennel. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly viscous opening, more cohesion with a dab of ginger towards the finish that just needs more persistence. This is a very commendable Bâtard-Montrachet, although my preference is with the Criots this year.
robert_parker
2011
Rating:
94
–94
The Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 from Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is a gem. Here we have a killer limestone, stony bouquet that is stoic but utterly captivating, more like a Montrachet in my opinion. The palate is struck through with superb tension and grace, delicate touches of citrus peel, finely poised with an intense and penetrating finish. What a fabulous Bâtard-Montrachet this is from one of Chassagne top-notch growers.
robert_parker
2010
Rating:
96
–96
The 2010 Batard-Montrachet is stunningly beautiful. It covers every inch of the palate with layers of intensely perfumed fruit. Despite its considerable richness, the Batard remains surprisingly delicate and medium in body, although I suspect it will put on weight in the bottle. There is so much to admire here, but the wine shuts down quickly in the glass, and I fear the same may happen in bottle. Readers will have to be patient here. In my view, the Batard is the most complete of the domaine’s grand crus. It combines aromatics, fruit and structure in a marvelously harmonious expression of this great vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2015+.
I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Fontaine-Gagnard. The 2010s are rich, deep and racy, but also show tremendous transparency with regards to site and have a little more polish than is customary. Celine Fontaine told me she was very surprised by the concentration of the wines given the poor weather during the summer, but that, ultimately, it was the small size of the berries that played a big role in giving the wines their personalities. The harvest started on September 21. All of the 2010s were bottled in August 2011. Although I did not taste any of the reds, Fontaine also told me a number of the estate’s Pinot vineyards were heavily affected by the December 2009 frost and required replanting.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446
robert_parker
2009
Rating:
95
–95
The 2009 Batard-Montrachet is a big wine. Today it shows its broad shoulders and structure, but also comes across as less obvious than the Criots, suggesting it has begun to shut down in bottle. There is plenty of finesse and personality in the glass, but this is a wine whose best days are still at least a few years away. Nevertheless, it is impossible to miss the wine’s exceptional harmony, laser-like focus and promise. Anticipated maturity: 2016+.
Richard Fontaine began harvesting the 2009s on September 6. The malos were fairly quick and were completed by April 2010. The wines were racked in June and bottled in early September. Perhaps it is inevitable with a total of ten different Chassagne premier crus in the lineup, but in this vintage not all of the wines are markedly different from each other.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446
robert_parker
2009
Rating:
93
–93
The Batard-Montrachet is very subtle on the nose with subtle notes of Kaffir lime, wet limestone and a touch of lemon zest. The palate is very well balanced with good acidity, understated at first but very persistent and brimming with mineralite at the finish. At the moment, I prefer the Caillerets, but that lingering spicy/lemongrass note is very persuasive. Tasted January 2011.
2009 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Chassagne Montrachet White 95
The Criots has a wonderful, fragrant bouquet of lemon curd, frangipane, white flowers and a touch of orange-blossom with an underlying mineralite developing with aeration. The palate, to be brutally honest, is not quite as ethereal as the aromatics...but not far off. Supremely well balanced, surfeit with mineral-rich dried apricot and passion fruit, great precision on the finish. Though not quite as otherworldly as Olivier Lamy’s Criot this remains a beautiful white Burgundy to cherish. Tasted January 2011.
robert_parker
1997
Rating:
91
–91
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard's 1997 Batard-Montrachet has clay, earth, and mineral scents. It is medium-to-full-bodied, immensely rich, dense, fat, and mouth-coating. This wine's sur-maturite, flavor-packed character (minerals, spiced pears, apples), luxurious texture, and admirable length guarantee it an outstanding score. However, it borderlines on being flabby and heavy. It will make great drinking over the next five years. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.
robert_parker
1992
Rating:
93
–93
The knock-out 1992 Batard-Montrachet is oozing with fruit. It reveals a huge, massive bouquet of apple blossoms, honeysuckle, and buttery, peach-like fruit. Full-bodied, deep, and chewy, this low acid, blockbuster wine should offer superb drinking over the next 8-10 years.
In the confusing world of Burgundy's domaine names, there are many with the family name Gagnard (i.e, Gagnard-Delagrange, Blaine-Gagnard). This estate, owned by Richard Fontaine, is considered to be the finest of the Gagnard-named domaines. These 1992s are knock-out white burgundies.
Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ.
vinous
2019
Rating:
94
–94
The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a rather terse bouquet, more saline than the Criots, touches of oyster shell coming through with time in the glass. The palate is well balanced with more weight and density than the Criots, grippy and saline with a long spicy aftertaste. This is excellent - but serious and warranting cellaring for three or four years.
robert_parker
2014
Rating:
95
–95
The 2014 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a touch more gumption on the nose compared to the Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet with scents of citrus lemon, linden and cold granite, beautifully focused and very intense. The palate is long and tender in the mouth, certainly spicier and more extrovert than the Criot with a bravura finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is just a superb Bâtard-Montrachet from the domaine, one of the best of the vintage.
robert_parker
2016
Rating:
93
–93
The 2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru offers more on the nose than the Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet this year with aniseed-tinged citrus fruit. The palate is rounded on the entry, quite powerful and pure with notes of orange zest, quince and Japanese yuzu toward the finish that fans out gloriously. Just three barrels of this fine nectar this year.
robert_parker
2017
Rating:
95
–95
Wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of vine blossom, acacia honey, mandarin oil, ripe pears and hazelnuts, the 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, unctuous and dense, with a blockier, more foursquare profile than the lavishly expansive Criots, with more depth and concentration too, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. This is quintessential Bâtard.
robert_parker
2009
Rating:
95
–95
The 2009 Batard-Montrachet is a big wine. Today it shows its broad shoulders and structure, but also comes across as less obvious than the Criots, suggesting it has begun to shut down in bottle. There is plenty of finesse and personality in the glass, but this is a wine whose best days are still at least a few years away. Nevertheless, it is impossible to miss the wine’s exceptional harmony, laser-like focus and promise. Anticipated maturity: 2016+.
Richard Fontaine began harvesting the 2009s on September 6. The malos were fairly quick and were completed by April 2010. The wines were racked in June and bottled in early September. Perhaps it is inevitable with a total of ten different Chassagne premier crus in the lineup, but in this vintage not all of the wines are markedly different from each other.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446
robert_parker
2010
Rating:
96
–96
The 2010 Batard-Montrachet is stunningly beautiful. It covers every inch of the palate with layers of intensely perfumed fruit. Despite its considerable richness, the Batard remains surprisingly delicate and medium in body, although I suspect it will put on weight in the bottle. There is so much to admire here, but the wine shuts down quickly in the glass, and I fear the same may happen in bottle. Readers will have to be patient here. In my view, the Batard is the most complete of the domaine’s grand crus. It combines aromatics, fruit and structure in a marvelously harmonious expression of this great vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2015+.
I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Fontaine-Gagnard. The 2010s are rich, deep and racy, but also show tremendous transparency with regards to site and have a little more polish than is customary. Celine Fontaine told me she was very surprised by the concentration of the wines given the poor weather during the summer, but that, ultimately, it was the small size of the berries that played a big role in giving the wines their personalities. The harvest started on September 21. All of the 2010s were bottled in August 2011. Although I did not taste any of the reds, Fontaine also told me a number of the estate’s Pinot vineyards were heavily affected by the December 2009 frost and required replanting.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446
robert_parker
2012
Rating:
93
–93
The 2012 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from two parcels of vines, the earliest planted in the 1930s. It is more expressive at this early stage than its peers, offering peach skin and nectarine fruit, fine mineralite and tension. The palate is powerful like the Criots-Batard-Montrachet, packed with pithy fruit and touches of granite on the finish. Very fine – but just five barrels this year. The reds were all in barrel when we met.
I’ve been smitten by the wines of this Chassagne producer ever since winemaker Celine Gagnard poured me a hauntingly beautiful Criots-Batard-Montrachet in London several years ago. Celine is one of those immediately likeable winemakers: an outgoing personality with an uncommon side order of self-deprecating humor, frankness and self-confessed chattiness. There is directness in her approach that is refreshing. It probably stems from her father Richard, an air force mechanic who upon meeting his wife Laurence Gagnard, dropped everything to study winemaking. Together they established their own domaine initially through rented parcels and debuted with the 1985 vintage. They now have an impressive portfolio as Laurence’s father Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange has handed down parcels so that they presently own an enviable trove of Chassagne premier crus. Celine did not dither in expounding her views upon organic winemaking, de rigueur amongst vignerons. She is adamant that the practice is leaving too many copper deposits in the vineyard. Good point – one rarely addressed. And whereas many winemakers are gently dialing down the level of new oak, here at Fontaine-Gagnard it is part of the intrinsic character of the wines, not that they showed excessive use. To this end, at Fontaine-Gagnard they venture into the forest to select their own wood that is dried in Richard’s garden for two years, governing the drying process so that they get exactly what they want. “We used more new oak this vintage on both whites and reds. The flowering was worse in Chassagne than in Volnay. On 17 May we suffered frost damage in higher terroirs. We believe we need to have the best healthy grapes at harvest time and for that we need products when the pressure is hard. After all, we live in a climate with a lot of rain. We have seen a high concentration of copper in organically farmed vineyards.” Here, the pickers picked up their secateurs on 19 September and put them down again on 24 September. Celine explained that there was little sorting to do because it had been done all in the vineyard, either naturally or through vineyard husbandry. As I mentioned, I am not one to pull my punches from overuse of new oak, but here at Fontaine-Gagnard, they have always had the knack of assimilating it into the wine so that it is barely noticeable. Broaching the whites first, we tasted through the complete range except for their single barrel Montrachet that had already been bottled, through Celine generously opened a 2011 that I left to one side because it was so closed. As I mentioned, there is a clutch of stupendous premier crus here, especially from the calcareous soils on the higher reaches of the slope such as “La Romanee” and “Cailleret”. The only downside is that they border the forest and wild boars have taken to nibbling some of the La Romanee berries. They don’t even leave a tasting note. Crowned by two superb grand crus, “Queen Criots” and “King Batard,” the whites overshadow their reds that tend to be more rustic and easy drinking, not substandard wines by any means, but rarely the main event. This brings me back to that Montrachet 2011 that was waiting patiently for its turn. A couple of hours later I return to my hotel and switch on my laptop. I discover the Word document open and ready for a note never written, the poured Montrachet snubbed by us both. Doh! Both Celine and I had been chewing the fat so much that I forgot it. I just hope she enjoyed the rest of the bottle that evening?assuming that she noticed herself.
Importer: Polaner Selections, 19 North Moger Avenue, Mount Kisco, NY 10549Phone:(914) 244-0404 and through various UK merchants such as Berry Brothers & Rudd and OW Loeb.
robert_parker
2013
Rating:
94
–94
The 2013 Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru has a much more austere bouquet than the Criots: stubborn and standoffish at the moment. The palate is well balanced with light peach, tangerine and lemon curd notes, the new oak (one-third) nicely integrated and rounding out the tensile finish that displays superb salinity. The more this stays in the glass, the better it becomes. Superb.
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
88
–88
Pears, apples, and white peaches are found in the nose of the 1999 Batard-Montrachet. Medium-bodied, broad, plump, and rich, it offers spice and white fruit flavors in its fresh character. Its finish is somewhat tight, yet it does not reveal the dry, chalky characteristic found in some of this vintage's wines. Projected maturity: 2002-2008.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.
robert_parker
1997
Rating:
91
–91
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard's 1997 Batard-Montrachet has clay, earth, and mineral scents. It is medium-to-full-bodied, immensely rich, dense, fat, and mouth-coating. This wine's sur-maturite, flavor-packed character (minerals, spiced pears, apples), luxurious texture, and admirable length guarantee it an outstanding score. However, it borderlines on being flabby and heavy. It will make great drinking over the next five years. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.