France · Rhone · Northern Rhone · Condrieu White · Still · wine-wine · 1113156
Lowest offer: 55.83333333333333333333333333 GBP (Buy)
Offers: 19 · Bids: 0
| Price / case | Vintage | Packing | Qty | Location |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1228.92 GBP | 2017 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 804.65 GBP | 2018 | 12 x 75cl | 2 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 402.33 GBP | 2018 | 6 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 543.40 GBP | 2018 | 6 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 731.50 GBP | 2019 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 752.40 GBP | 2020 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 752.40 GBP | 2020 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 836.00 GBP | 2020 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 912.29 GBP | 2020 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 418.00 GBP | 2020 | 6 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 4702.50 HKD | 2020 | 6 x 75cl | 1 | hk / Hong Kong |
| 376.20 GBP | 2022 | 6 x 75cl | 1 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 4368.00 HKD | 2022 | 6 x 75cl | 5 | hk / Hong Kong |
| 350.08 GBP | 2022 | 6 x 75cl | 17 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 8652.60 HKD | 2023 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | hk / Hong Kong |
| 350.08 GBP | 2023 | 6 x 75cl | 4 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 335.00 GBP | 2023 | 6 x 75cl | 12 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 378.29 GBP | 2024 | 6 x 75cl | 10 | uk / United Kingdom |
| 335.00 GBP | 2024 | 6 x 75cl | 10 | uk / United Kingdom |
No active bids.
| Vintage | Packing | Offers | Bids | Market price | WA rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2006 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 10304.28 | 96 |
| 2007 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 9142.92 | 94 |
| 2007 | 6 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 4571.46 | 94 |
| 2010 | 6 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 6799.86 | 100 |
| 2011 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 11628.00 | 96 |
| 2011 | 6 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 5685.36 | 96 |
| 2012 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 9846.36 | 96 |
| 2012 | 6 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 4923.18 | 96 |
| 2013 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 10141.44 | 95 |
| 2013 | 6 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 5070.72 | 95 |
| 2014 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 97 | |
| 2015 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 13464.36 | 99 |
| 2015 | 6 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 6732.18 | 99 |
| 2016 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 10441.32 | 94 |
| 2016 | 6 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 5220.66 | 94 |
| 2017 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | 0 | 9284.64 | 96 |
| 2017 | 5 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 96 | |
| 2017 | 6 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 4642.32 | 96 |
| 2018 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | 0 | 8143.92 | 94 |
| 2018 | 6 x 75cl | 2 | 0 | 4071.96 | 94 |
| 2019 | 1 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 94 | |
| 2019 | 12 x 1.5L | 0 | 0 | 94 | |
| 2019 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | 0 | 7979.28 | 94 |
| 2019 | 3 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 1994.82 | 94 |
| 2019 | 6 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 3989.64 | 94 |
| 2020 | 1 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 93 | |
| 2020 | 12 x 1.5L | 0 | 0 | 93 | |
| 2020 | 12 x 75cl | 4 | 0 | 8678.40 | 93 |
| 2020 | 6 x 75cl | 2 | 0 | 4339.20 | 93 |
| 2021 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 7250.88 | |
| 2021 | 6 x 75cl | 1 | 0 | 3625.44 | |
| 2022 | 12 x 75cl | 0 | 0 | 7264.44 | |
| 2022 | 6 x 75cl | 4 | 0 | ||
| 2023 | 12 x 75cl | 1 | 0 | ||
| 2023 | 6 x 75cl | 2 | 0 | ||
| 2024 | 6 x 75cl | 2 | 0 |
Rating: 93 –93
While the 2020 Condrieu la Doriane matured entirely in new oak, there's just a hint of toast on the nose. The rest of the bouquet features a kaleidoscopic swirl of floral and spice notes with melon and white peach. Medium to full-bodied, it's exquisitely expansive and silky in texture, yet it remains refreshing on the lengthy, mouthwatering finish.
Rating: 94 –94
Fermented and matured in new barrels, the 2019 Condrieu la Doriane nevertheless reveals effusive floral aromas on the nose, backed by notes of toast, lime and apricot. This medium to full-bodied effort shows exquisite balance and structure, finishing silky and long. It's one of the rare Condrieus that may be able to age well for a decade.
Rating: 94 –94
The 2018 Condrieu la Doriane was barrel fermented in 100% new oak. Yes, it's toasty as a result, but it's loaded with grilled stone fruit and doesn't seem overdone, just rich, plush, full-bodied and long on the powerful finish. It's another top-notch effort from the appellation's leading (volume) producer.
Rating: 96 –96
Slightly more forward and flamboyant than the more classically structured 2016, the 2017 Condrieu la Doriane is full-bodied, plush and opulent, loaded with flowers, melons and apricots. Yes, the oak is noticeable, but it adds a relatively restrained note of toasted almonds, serving to focus and lift the waves of succulent fruit. I'd drink this silky-textured beauty over the next few years, while it's still as showy as can be.
Rating: 94 –94
Bottled in June 2017, the 2016 Condrieu la Doriane is entirely barrel-fermented in new oak. This vintage seems more restrained and less rich than some others, but it remains marked by smoky, grilled apricot aromas and flavors. It’s nicely balanced and not overly opulent, retaining a sense of elegance on the long, spicy finish.
Rating: 99 –99
Easily one of the greatest Condrieu I’ve ever tasted is the 2015 Condrieu La Doriane. A wine that needs to be tasted to be believed, it possesses a huge nose of toasted brioche, liquid rocks, apricot, flower oil and salty minerality. Unctuous, full-bodied, massively rich, yet also elegant and graceful, with beautiful freshness, enjoy this tour de force over the coming 5-6 years.
Rating: 97 –97
The 2014 Condrieu la Doriane is a sensational white that marries the inherent richness and exotic quality of the Viognier grape with the purity, elegance and grace imparted by this cooler vintage. Giving up terrific notes of white peach, marmalade, flowers, spice and tangerines, it has full-bodied richness, awesome purity and integrated acidity. Deep, rich, lengthy and profound, it’s up there with some of the greatest Condrieu ever made.
Rating: 96 –96
Bottled early in June, the 2014 Condrieu la Doriane is neck and neck with the 2013 in terms of quality. It too has sensational, full-throttle notes of tangerines, spice, buttered peach and citrus oil in a medium to full-bodied, elegant, vibrant personality. Give it six to 12 months of bottle age and enjoy bottles through 2020.
Rating: 95 –95
More concentrated and masculine than the elegant and seamless 2014, the 2013 Condrieu la Doriane has unbelievable minerality as well as classic notes of caramelized peach, orange blossom and spice. Brought up all in new oak, there’s not a trace of wood to be found and it has full-bodied richness and a terrific finish. It's drinking nicely today, yet I suspect it will be one of the longer-lived examples of the cuvee. Still, I say drink!
Rating: 96 –96
Slightly more fresh and focused than the 2012, the 2013 Condrieu la Doriane (aged 9 months in 100% new French oak) exhibits a vibrant bouquet of white flowers, white peach, tangerine and bitter citrus. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, pure, elegant Condrieu that has terrific depth and richness to go with vibrant acidity, a focused texture and a great finish. It will be better next year and drink nicely through 2018.
Rating: 96 –96
Another wine I was able to re-taste, the 2013 Condrieu la Doriane, continues to pretty much make my eyes roll back in my head every time I taste it. Orange rind, tangerine, spice and buttered citrus all flow from this stacked, medium to full-bodied Condrieu that packs tons of fruit and texture into an elegant, fresh and clean package. Drink this beauty over the coming 3-5 years.
Rating: 96 –96
The 2012 Condrieu la Doriane is much more open and flamboyant than the tighter, slightly closed 2013 and offers full-bodied notes of quince, orange blossom, white peach and exotic flowers. This is a classic Condrieu that offers everything you could want, and it's drinking perfectly today.
Rating: 98 –98
Even better and a monumental effort, the 2012 Condrieu La Doriane shows the freshness and purity of the vintage, with thrilling minerality that gives lift to stone fruits, citrus, marmalade and assorted floral nuances. Medium to full-bodied, laser-focused and ultra-precise, yet still fantastically textured and long, this is blockbuster stuff that flirts with perfection and should not be missed. One of the highlight tastings during my more than two weeks spent working in the Northern Rhone, this set of releases by the father/son pair, Marcel and Philippe Guigal, is about as stacked a lineup as you’ll find anywhere in the world. From their tiny production Cote Roties, to the massive production level Cotes du Rhone (red and white), the quality here is impeccable, as is the attention to detail at every step of the winemaking process. Looking at the vintages reviewed here, reds first, their 2009s are some of the most bombastic, decadent and thrilling wines out there. While they have the over the top richness that allows them to dish out plenty of pleasure even now, they need 4-5 years to integrate their oak and to fully flesh out. Count yourself lucky if you have a few of these hidden in the cellar. More classic in style across the board, the 2010s are more focused and straight, yet similarly concentrated, if not with additional density. They will take slightly longer to come around compared to the 2009s, and certainly offer a more textbook drinking experience. They, too, are at the top of the wine hierarchy. The 2011s show the vintage nicely with slightly more approachable profiles, sweet tannin and brilliant concentration, especially in the vintage. They still have another year in barrel to go, but will certainly be among the top wines of the vintage, have broad drink windows, and should come close to what was achieved in 2009 and 2010, albeit in a different style. Lastly, the 2012s should, in my mind, surpass the 2011s, as they have a smidge more overall density, as well as fabulous purity. Neither the 2011s nor 2012s have the density of the 2010s, nor the sheer wealth of material that’s found in the 2009s. Nevertheless, time will tell, and these wines won’t be bottled for some time yet. Looking at the whites, 2011 and 2012 are similar in quality. Both vintages have beautiful purity, good overall acidity and good concentration, i.e., lots to like. Whether or not we’ll see a 2012 Ermitage Ex-Voto Blanc (which was not produced in 2011) remains to be seen, but what I tasted was certainly promising, if not earth-shattering (as was the 2010!). Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
Rating: 97 –97
Like with the classic Condrieu, I was able to retaste the 2012 Condrieu la Doriane. It’s absorbed any trace of the 100% new oak it was raised in and displays blockbuster notes of golden fruits, ripe peach, honeysuckle, toasted bread and caramelized citrus. Full-bodied, decadent and mouth filling, it stays remarkably well balanced, graceful and pure.
Rating: 96 –96
One of the most flamboyant, downright sexy wines in the lineup is unquestionably the 2011 Condrieu la Doriane. Possessing a light gold color and crazy notes of caramelized peach, brioche and floral characteristics, it offers incredible purity and elegance, while packing serious amounts of fruit and texture. I love it, and would drink bottles anytime over the coming 2-3 years.
Rating: 94 –94
One of the great wines of Condrieu is Guigal’s 2011 Condrieu La Doriane. This remarkably consistent blockbuster is not a single vineyard wine as much of it comes from some of the finest sites in this appellation, such as the Cote Chatillon, Coteau du Chery, Colombier and the aforementioned Lys de Volant. It is capable of lasting 4-5 years, although I recently found a 2001 in my cellar that was drinking sensationally. It was shocking to see how well it was holding up at age 11. The 2011 is superb, offering white peach, honeysuckle, quince, peach marmalade, spring flower and subtle background oak notes. Full-bodied with good minerality and freshness, it is exceptionally well delineated for a wine of this size. The Guigal family may be the modern world’s greatest testament to a family-run winery with impeccably high standards, integrity and an uncompromising vision of the future. They continue to push the envelope of quality to greater and greater heights. Marcel Guigal learned it all from his father, Etienne, a legend in the Northern Rhone. Over my three decade plus career, it has been a noteworthy story to watch Marcel’s son, Philippe, take full responsibility for the future direction of this incredible enterprise, if not empire. I have almost unlimited admiration for the Guigals and their ability to produce millions of bottles of inexpensive Cotes du Rhones that are among the finest of the entire Rhone Valley, as well as their portfolio of exquisite whites, reds and roses from the most prestigious appellations in the Rhone. After more than three decades of tasting here, I never cease to be amazed by what they accomplish. I have said this many, many times, but it bears repeating – the magic of the Guigals is not only due to having some extraordinary vineyards in St.-Joseph, Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Condrieu, but also the ability to pay the highest price for purchased grapes and/or wine from which they fashion remarkable blends. The importance of a wine’s upbringing (or, as the French call it, elevage) is the key to understanding the entire Guigal locomotive. No one does it better; no one has done it longer; and no one seems to have the Midas touch for putting the wines in the bottle at precisely the right moment to capture the essence of a wine before it begins to fade or lose its vibrancy. This may sound easy, but to date, no one comes remotely close to what the Guigals consistently do across all fields of play. About a decade ago, Guigal’s white wines began to take on an amazing level of quality and the family continues to augment and increase that quality. Their Cotes du Rhone Blanc, usually a blend of two-thirds Viognier and the rest Clairette and Bourboulenc, has become a reference point for what amazing value and high quality can be achieved in a completely naked, expressive wine. Guigal produces approximately 40% of all the Condrieu made, and he continues to add some exquisite terroirs to his portfolio. For example, he recently bought the vineyard owned by Alain Parent and Gerard Depardieu, Lys de Volant. Guigal can produce two cuvees of white Hermitage, their regular blend of 90% Marsanne and 10% Roussanne, and, in exceptional vintages, a luxury cuvee called Ex-Voto, which is approximately 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne. It spends more time in small new oak than the regular cuvee. From the Northern Rhone, Guigal’s finest values are his Crozes-Hermitage and his lower level cuvees of St.-Joseph, all of which are 100% Syrah. The Crozes-Hermitage comes from hillside vineyards and the St.-Joseph comes from hillsides with decomposed granite soils that are commonplace in the northern half of that sprawling appellation. With the purchase of the estates of Jean-Louis Grippat as well as the holdings of De Vallouit, Guigal increased his estate vineyards in Hermitage. A basic Hermitage cuvee is produced each year, and in the top vintages, a luxury cuvee called Ex-Voto is made. Guigal now owns vineyards in the famed lieux-dits of Les Bessards, Dionnieres, l’Ermite and Le Meal. The regular Hermitage is generally aged for up to three years in small oak casks, about 50% new. When declared, the Ex-Voto is given the same 42 months in 100% new French oak as his three single vineyard Cote Roties (La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque). The Ex-Voto is a blend of fruit from Les Bessards (40%), Les Greffieux (40%) and Les Murets (20%). Guigal produces approximately 300,000 bottles each year of his Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde. We started with the 2008, probably the second worst vintage in the Northern Rhone (2002 being the worst in the last decade). Not a single vineyard wine, but a prodigious Cote Rotie is Guigal’s Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis. Marcel Guigal’s son, Philippe, lives at this estate with his wife and children, and this is also where they cooper their wood barrels made from staves that are air-dried a minimum of three years. This cuvee is always a blend of some of the finest parcels on the hillsides of Cote Rotie, including La Garde, Le Clos, Grande-Plantee, Pommiere, Pavillon, Le Moulin and La Viria. It is aged 38 months in 100% new French oak, and around 2,000 cases are produced in most vintages. The three single vineyard Cote Roties are consistently among the world’s greatest wines. I often find La Mouline to be a so-called “desert island” wine as it was in vintages such as 1978, 1983, 1985, 1988, 1989, 1991, 1999, 2003, 2005 and 2009. La Mouline is made from the oldest vines and is vinified differently than the other single vineyard cuvees, utilizing pump-over techniques as opposed to punching down (La Turque) or immersed cap (La Landonne). To reiterate, the Cote Rotie La Turque comes from the Cote Brune and its upbringing is the same as La Mouline’s, aged 42 months in 100% new French oak, co-fermented with 5-7% Viognier, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. It comes from younger vines as the first vintage was 1985 and that remarkable wine was made from 3-year-old vines (which puts a kink in the French myth that old vines are always the best). As I previously indicated, La Turque is vinified by punching down as opposed to pumping over or the immersed cap fermentation of La Landonne. The third of these prodigious Cote Roties, La Landonne, comes from the Cote Brune. Unlike its siblings, it is 100% Syrah that receives the same upbringing, 42 months in 100% new French oak and bottling with no fining or filtration. The other luxury cuvee, although not a single vineyard wine, is the Hermitage Ex-Voto, which is aged 42 months in 100% new oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered. It is always fashioned from Les Bessards (40%), Les Greffieux (40%), Les Murets (10%) and l’Ermite (10%). The Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape produced by Guigal are often excellent, even outstanding wines that sell for a fraction of the price asked for his luxury cuvees of Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Condrieu and St.-Joseph. Guigal’s Gigondas spends around 24-25 months in wood foudres, and includes a great deal of Mourvedre in the blend. The Chateauneuf du Pape, which comes from purchased wine, is aged two years in foudre prior to release. Guigal normally includes a minimum of 10% Mourvedre in the blend, with the balance old vine Grenache. As I have said many times, one of these days the Guigals will purchase a famous estate in Chateauneuf du Pape because Marcel’s father, Etienne, had always said the three greatest appellations of the Rhone Valley were Cote Rotie, Hermitage and Chateauneuf du Pape (few people would disagree). Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
Rating: 96 –96
Looking at the top cuvee, the 2011 Condrieu La Doriane, which was bottled in June of this year, spent 9 months in 100% new French oak and comes mostly from the Chatillonne and Colombier lieux-dits. It is a brilliant white that dishes out loads of mineral-tinged white currants, buttered apricots, flowers and toast to go with medium to full-bodied richness and depth, great acidity and a blockbuster finish. It can age, but I’d lean toward drinking bottles over the coming 3-5 years at most. One of the highlight tastings during my more than two weeks spent working in the Northern Rhone, this set of releases by the father/son pair, Marcel and Philippe Guigal, is about as stacked a lineup as you’ll find anywhere in the world. From their tiny production Cote Roties, to the massive production level Cotes du Rhone (red and white), the quality here is impeccable, as is the attention to detail at every step of the winemaking process. Looking at the vintages reviewed here, reds first, their 2009s are some of the most bombastic, decadent and thrilling wines out there. While they have the over the top richness that allows them to dish out plenty of pleasure even now, they need 4-5 years to integrate their oak and to fully flesh out. Count yourself lucky if you have a few of these hidden in the cellar. More classic in style across the board, the 2010s are more focused and straight, yet similarly concentrated, if not with additional density. They will take slightly longer to come around compared to the 2009s, and certainly offer a more textbook drinking experience. They, too, are at the top of the wine hierarchy. The 2011s show the vintage nicely with slightly more approachable profiles, sweet tannin and brilliant concentration, especially in the vintage. They still have another year in barrel to go, but will certainly be among the top wines of the vintage, have broad drink windows, and should come close to what was achieved in 2009 and 2010, albeit in a different style. Lastly, the 2012s should, in my mind, surpass the 2011s, as they have a smidge more overall density, as well as fabulous purity. Neither the 2011s nor 2012s have the density of the 2010s, nor the sheer wealth of material that’s found in the 2009s. Nevertheless, time will tell, and these wines won’t be bottled for some time yet. Looking at the whites, 2011 and 2012 are similar in quality. Both vintages have beautiful purity, good overall acidity and good concentration, i.e., lots to like. Whether or not we’ll see a 2012 Ermitage Ex-Voto Blanc (which was not produced in 2011) remains to be seen, but what I tasted was certainly promising, if not earth-shattering (as was the 2010!). Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
Rating: 100 –100
The finest Condrieu I’ve ever tasted is unquestionably the 2010 Condrieu la Doriane. Possessing over the top richness and depth, as well as phenomenal purity and elegance, it offers to-die-for notes of white flowers, apricots, liquid rocks, caramelized citrus and toasted bread. Full-bodied, layered, multi-dimensional and with blockbuster length, Viognier just doesn’t get any better.
Rating: 98 –98
Perhaps the finest example of this cuvee Guigal has yet made, the 2010 Condrieu La Doriane flirts with perfection. Profoundly intense with abundant notes reminiscent of caramelized oranges, lychee nuts, apricots, spring flowers and a liqueur of wet rocks, this superb, full-bodied, rich Condrieu possesses slightly higher acids than the 2009. It should keep for 5-10 years. The following paragraph is taken from issue #193, but I believe it is so important to understand the Guigal philosophy that I am repeating it verbatim. “As I have written many times before, no one in the wine world is better at ‘raising’ a wine (or as the French call it elevage) than Marcel Guigal, who learned the skills from his father, Etienne. Because everyone tends to focus on vintage conditions and terroir, the importance of a wine’s elevage is often overlooked, but Guigal’s unusually long tank, foudre and small barrel aging regime for all his red wines as well as several of his whites results in an array of remarkable wines time and time again. Even the most challenging vintages, which often taste under-nourished, vegetal and thin in their first year or two of life, tend to take on concentration and character, turning out to be some of the finest wines in many of the most difficult Rhone vintages. Moreover, Guigal’s wines always taste better out of bottle than from barrel, which speaks to his honesty and integrity as well as to his brilliance in deciding how long to age a wine in wood or tank, as well as choosing the perfect moment to bottle it. None of this is as simple as it might sound, and that’s why Marcel Guigal gets my vote as the reigning genius in terms of the upbringing of his wines.” Crozes-Hermitage has become one of the Guigal “go-to” wines for value hunters and he has raised the level of this humble appellation dramatically with his recent efforts. Cote Rotie was what made Marcel Guigal and his father, Etienne, famous. The Guigals are the largest landholders in Cote Rotie and produce 35-40% of this hallowed appellation’s production. Five cuvees are produced in every vintage, the three single vineyard offerings, the Chateau d’Ampuis (a blend of top sites aged 38 months in 100% new French oak casks), and their largest production offering, the Brune et Blonde (which is aged in small barrels and usually co-fermented with 3-5% Viognier depending on the vintage). Along with Michel Chapoutier’s St.-Joseph Les Granits, Guigal’s St.-Joseph Vignes de l’Hospice is the top wine of the appellation. Guigal purchased this 8-acre parcel of steep hillside vines from Grippat. Aged 30 months in 100% new oak, this wine is extraordinary. Guigal claims the soil is reminiscent of Les Bessards Vineyard in Hermitage Over the last decade, Guigal has dramatically increased his vineyard holdings in Hermitage, purchasing the estates of Jean-Louis Grippat as well as the Hermitage holdings of De Vallouit. He now has parcels in such famed vineyards as Le Meal, Les Beaumes, Les Bessards and Dionnieres. Guigal’s basic red Hermitage (which has been made for over five decades) is generally aged for more than three years in small casks, of which about 45% are new. In exceptional vintages, Guigal will cull out a special cuvee called Ex-Voto, which is aged 42 months in 100% new French oak. One thousand cases are usually made from three separate vineyards (40% from Les Bessards, 40% from Les Greffieux and 20% from Les Murets.) Guigal owns the spectacular Chateau d’Ampuis on the banks of the Rhone River. His son, Philippe, lives here and this is where they produce their wood barrels from long-aged wood staves they purchase 3 to 5 years in advance. This wine, which comes from a blend of such extraordinary vineyards as La Garde, Le Clos, Grande-Plantee, Pommiere, Pavillon, Le Moulin and La Viria, is aged 38 months in 100% new French oak. Production is approximately 2,000 cases in a good year. The three single vineyard Cote Roties are among the world’s top fifty wines ever made. Their differences become apparent around age 8-10 and are dramatically different by age 15. The first vintage of La Landonne was 1978, La Turque was 1985 and La Mouline was 1966. La Mouline is always the sexiest and easiest to appreciate young as it is co-fermented with 11% Viognier. La Turque is co-fermented with 5-6% Viognier and La Landonne is 100% Syrah. La Mouline comes from the Cote Blonde, which has lighter soils (hence the name), and La Turque and La Landonne emerge from the Cote Brune. La Mouline is made from the oldest vines (60-65 years) and is vinified using pump over techniques. From relatively young vines (about 20 years of age), La Turque is vinified by punching down. La Landonne is vinified using the modern system of the cap being immersed. The results are three very different wines, although all of them spend 42 months in 100% new French oak, are barely racked, have minimal levels of SO2, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
Rating: 99 –99
Another insanely good Condrieu is the light gold-colored 2009 Condrieu la Doriane. A bigger, richer, more flamboyant and sexy wine than the 2010, it offers thrilling notes of tangerines, white peach, flowers and brioche in a full-bodied, fat, unctuous, yet never heavy package. It doesn’t have the minerality and precision of the 2010, but it packs a crazy amount of fruit and texture, and is just a joy to drink.
Rating: 96 –96
The 2009 Condrieu La Doriane (15% natural alcohol) exhibits explosive aromas of white peaches, anise, orange marmalade, honeysuckle and crushed rocks. Stunning freshness, minerality and definition characterize this blockbuster Condrieu. It should drink well for a decade. The following paragraph is taken from issue #193, but I believe it is so important to understand the Guigal philosophy that I am repeating it verbatim. “As I have written many times before, no one in the wine world is better at ‘raising’ a wine (or as the French call it elevage) than Marcel Guigal, who learned the skills from his father, Etienne. Because everyone tends to focus on vintage conditions and terroir, the importance of a wine’s elevage is often overlooked, but Guigal’s unusually long tank, foudre and small barrel aging regime for all his red wines as well as several of his whites results in an array of remarkable wines time and time again. Even the most challenging vintages, which often taste under-nourished, vegetal and thin in their first year or two of life, tend to take on concentration and character, turning out to be some of the finest wines in many of the most difficult Rhone vintages. Moreover, Guigal’s wines always taste better out of bottle than from barrel, which speaks to his honesty and integrity as well as to his brilliance in deciding how long to age a wine in wood or tank, as well as choosing the perfect moment to bottle it. None of this is as simple as it might sound, and that’s why Marcel Guigal gets my vote as the reigning genius in terms of the upbringing of his wines.” Crozes-Hermitage has become one of the Guigal “go-to” wines for value hunters and he has raised the level of this humble appellation dramatically with his recent efforts. Cote Rotie was what made Marcel Guigal and his father, Etienne, famous. The Guigals are the largest landholders in Cote Rotie and produce 35-40% of this hallowed appellation’s production. Five cuvees are produced in every vintage, the three single vineyard offerings, the Chateau d’Ampuis (a blend of top sites aged 38 months in 100% new French oak casks), and their largest production offering, the Brune et Blonde (which is aged in small barrels and usually co-fermented with 3-5% Viognier depending on the vintage). Along with Michel Chapoutier’s St.-Joseph Les Granits, Guigal’s St.-Joseph Vignes de l’Hospice is the top wine of the appellation. Guigal purchased this 8-acre parcel of steep hillside vines from Grippat. Aged 30 months in 100% new oak, this wine is extraordinary. Guigal claims the soil is reminiscent of Les Bessards Vineyard in Hermitage Over the last decade, Guigal has dramatically increased his vineyard holdings in Hermitage, purchasing the estates of Jean-Louis Grippat as well as the Hermitage holdings of De Vallouit. He now has parcels in such famed vineyards as Le Meal, Les Beaumes, Les Bessards and Dionnieres. Guigal’s basic red Hermitage (which has been made for over five decades) is generally aged for more than three years in small casks, of which about 45% are new. In exceptional vintages, Guigal will cull out a special cuvee called Ex-Voto, which is aged 42 months in 100% new French oak. One thousand cases are usually made from three separate vineyards (40% from Les Bessards, 40% from Les Greffieux and 20% from Les Murets.) Guigal owns the spectacular Chateau d’Ampuis on the banks of the Rhone River. His son, Philippe, lives here and this is where they produce their wood barrels from long-aged wood staves they purchase 3 to 5 years in advance. This wine, which comes from a blend of such extraordinary vineyards as La Garde, Le Clos, Grande-Plantee, Pommiere, Pavillon, Le Moulin and La Viria, is aged 38 months in 100% new French oak. Production is approximately 2,000 cases in a good year. The three single vineyard Cote Roties are among the world’s top fifty wines ever made. Their differences become apparent around age 8-10 and are dramatically different by age 15. The first vintage of La Landonne was 1978, La Turque was 1985 and La Mouline was 1966. La Mouline is always the sexiest and easiest to appreciate young as it is co-fermented with 11% Viognier. La Turque is co-fermented with 5-6% Viognier and La Landonne is 100% Syrah. La Mouline comes from the Cote Blonde, which has lighter soils (hence the name), and La Turque and La Landonne emerge from the Cote Brune. La Mouline is made from the oldest vines (60-65 years) and is vinified using pump over techniques. From relatively young vines (about 20 years of age), La Turque is vinified by punching down. La Landonne is vinified using the modern system of the cap being immersed. The results are three very different wines, although all of them spend 42 months in 100% new French oak, are barely racked, have minimal levels of SO2, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
Rating: 95 –95
The 2009 Condrieu La Doriane, which achieved 15% natural alcohol, is spectacular. Explosive aromas of peach and apricot marmalade, honeysuckle and crushed rocks soar from the glass. Full-bodied and opulent with enticing minerality, this is one of the finest La Dorianes Guigal has yet made. It should drink nicely for 3-4 years. As I have written many times before, no one in the wine world is better at “raising” a wine (or as the French call it elevage) than Marcel Guigal, who learned the skills from his father, Etienne. Because everyone tends to focus on vintage conditions and terroir, the importance of a wine’s elevage is often overlooked, but Guigal’s unusually long tank, foudre and small barrel aging regime for all his red wines as well as several of his whites results in an array of remarkable wines time and time again. Even the most challenging vintages, which often taste under-nourished, vegetal and thin in their first year or two of life, tend to take on concentration and character, turning out to be some of the finest wines in many of the most difficult Rhone vintages. Moreover, Guigal’s wines always taste better out of bottle than from barrel, which speaks to his honesty and integrity as well as to his brilliance in deciding how long to age a wine in wood or tank as well as choosing the perfect moment to bottle it. None of this is as simple as it might sound, and that’s why Marcel Guigal gets my vote as the reigning genius in terms the upbringing his wines. For ten to twelve years after my first visit to this estate in the late 1970s, I tended to think of Guigal as primarily a red wine specialist. I still believe the red wines are the heart and soul of Maison Guigal, but the quality of the white wines has gone from strength to strength over the last few decades, and the Guigal family now routinely produces some of the finest dry whites of the entire Rhone Valley, including their humble Cotes du Rhone, and more particularly their white cuvees of Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph, Hermitage and Condrieu. They produce more of the latter wine than any other proprietor of this tiny appellation. Guigal’s 2008 whites have turned out surprisingly strong. Guigal’s luxury cuvee of Condrieu, La Doriane, comes from the estate’s tiny holdings in some of the appellation’s finest terroirs, such as the Cote Chatillon, Volants, Colombier, and the Coteau Chery. Aged in 100% new oak (although it never shows any oakiness) and put through 100% malolactic fermentation, lees stirring is employed for La Doriane until the malolactic is finished. It is usually bottled after 12-14 months. Guigal’s red wines possess some of the lowest sulphur dioxide levels of any finished wines I have ever tasted. Most of them are approximately 10 ppm (parts per million) total SO2, which is virtually nothing. That said, the wines always age incredibly well, which goes back to Guigal’s brilliant, patient, long-term barrel, tank and foudre aging. The current value picks in Guigal’s red wine portfolio are his Crozes-Hermitage (one offering made) and his three St.-Joseph cuvees. Tasting through Guigal’s single vineyard Cote Roties, La Landonne, La Mouline and La Turque, is equal to tasting through a museum dedicated to the world’s most compelling wines. Each is treated differently, although there are similarities. La Mouline always comes from the Cote Blonde, La Turque and La Landonne from the Cote Brune; La Mouline is co-fermented with 11% Viognier, La Turque with 5-6% Viognier and La Landonne is 100% Syrah. La Mouline, made from the oldest vines (over 60 years), is vinified by pump-overs; La Turque is vinified by punching down the cap; and La Landonne is vinified in a modern system of cap immersion. All of these techniques tend to produce different tannin levels as well as types of tannin. Despite the fact that these wines spend 42 months in 100% new French oak, the wood component disappears in the character of the wines at about age 6-10. Moreover, these cuvees are rarely racked and are not sulphured until prior to bottling. The total parts per million of SO2 in the three cuvees runs between 8 and 15 parts per million, which is essentially nothing. In even the worst Northern Rhone vintages, Guigal somehow manages to produce amazing wines from these vineyards. The first vintage for La Mouline was 1966, La Landonne 1978, and La Turque 1985. Of course, these wines are bottled with neither fining nor filtration. 1991 was a great year for Guigal’s single vineyard Cote Roties, and 2007 is the first vintage since that reminds me so much of that vintage. 2008 was a challenging vintage for the single vineyard Cote Roties. Yet fine wines have been produced in this difficult year – a testament to the skills of Marcel Guigal and his son, Philippe. Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
Rating: 92 –92
Not harvested until the end of September (which is very late for this cuvee), the 2008 Condrieu la Doriane is still drinking beautifully today and offers a classic, straight, textbook profile. Apricots, citrus, minerals and floral notes all flow to a medium to full-bodied, lively, pure Condrieu that should be drunk over the coming year or two.
Rating: 92 –92
The 2008 Condrieu La Doriane is one of the top dry white wines of the vintage. Exotic notes of tropical fruit intermixed with crushed rock and spring flower aromas jump from the glass of this medium to full-bodied effort. It possesses a level of concentration and complexity that is rare in this year. As I have written many times before, no one in the wine world is better at “raising” a wine (or as the French call it elevage) than Marcel Guigal, who learned the skills from his father, Etienne. Because everyone tends to focus on vintage conditions and terroir, the importance of a wine’s elevage is often overlooked, but Guigal’s unusually long tank, foudre and small barrel aging regime for all his red wines as well as several of his whites results in an array of remarkable wines time and time again. Even the most challenging vintages, which often taste under-nourished, vegetal and thin in their first year or two of life, tend to take on concentration and character, turning out to be some of the finest wines in many of the most difficult Rhone vintages. Moreover, Guigal’s wines always taste better out of bottle than from barrel, which speaks to his honesty and integrity as well as to his brilliance in deciding how long to age a wine in wood or tank as well as choosing the perfect moment to bottle it. None of this is as simple as it might sound, and that’s why Marcel Guigal gets my vote as the reigning genius in terms the upbringing his wines. For ten to twelve years after my first visit to this estate in the late 1970s, I tended to think of Guigal as primarily a red wine specialist. I still believe the red wines are the heart and soul of Maison Guigal, but the quality of the white wines has gone from strength to strength over the last few decades, and the Guigal family now routinely produces some of the finest dry whites of the entire Rhone Valley, including their humble Cotes du Rhone, and more particularly their white cuvees of Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph, Hermitage and Condrieu. They produce more of the latter wine than any other proprietor of this tiny appellation. Guigal’s 2008 whites have turned out surprisingly strong. Guigal’s luxury cuvee of Condrieu, La Doriane, comes from the estate’s tiny holdings in some of the appellation’s finest terroirs, such as the Cote Chatillon, Volants, Colombier, and the Coteau Chery. Aged in 100% new oak (although it never shows any oakiness) and put through 100% malolactic fermentation, lees stirring is employed for La Doriane until the malolactic is finished. It is usually bottled after 12-14 months. Guigal’s red wines possess some of the lowest sulphur dioxide levels of any finished wines I have ever tasted. Most of them are approximately 10 ppm (parts per million) total SO2, which is virtually nothing. That said, the wines always age incredibly well, which goes back to Guigal’s brilliant, patient, long-term barrel, tank and foudre aging. The current value picks in Guigal’s red wine portfolio are his Crozes-Hermitage (one offering made) and his three St.-Joseph cuvees. Tasting through Guigal’s single vineyard Cote Roties, La Landonne, La Mouline and La Turque, is equal to tasting through a museum dedicated to the world’s most compelling wines. Each is treated differently, although there are similarities. La Mouline always comes from the Cote Blonde, La Turque and La Landonne from the Cote Brune; La Mouline is co-fermented with 11% Viognier, La Turque with 5-6% Viognier and La Landonne is 100% Syrah. La Mouline, made from the oldest vines (over 60 years), is vinified by pump-overs; La Turque is vinified by punching down the cap; and La Landonne is vinified in a modern system of cap immersion. All of these techniques tend to produce different tannin levels as well as types of tannin. Despite the fact that these wines spend 42 months in 100% new French oak, the wood component disappears in the character of the wines at about age 6-10. Moreover, these cuvees are rarely racked and are not sulphured until prior to bottling. The total parts per million of SO2 in the three cuvees runs between 8 and 15 parts per million, which is essentially nothing. In even the worst Northern Rhone vintages, Guigal somehow manages to produce amazing wines from these vineyards. The first vintage for La Mouline was 1966, La Landonne 1978, and La Turque 1985. Of course, these wines are bottled with neither fining nor filtration. 1991 was a great year for Guigal’s single vineyard Cote Roties, and 2007 is the first vintage since that reminds me so much of that vintage. 2008 was a challenging vintage for the single vineyard Cote Roties. Yet fine wines have been produced in this difficult year – a testament to the skills of Marcel Guigal and his son, Philippe. Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
Rating: 94 –94
Starting to show some evolution, the 2007 Condrieu la Doriane offers a ripe, concentrated, rich style as well as notes of baked apple, sautéed peach, honeysuckle and honeyed minerality. It’s fresh and lively on the palate, and will shine on the dinner table.
Rating: 95 –95
This full-bodied white was aged in one-third new oak and two-thirds tank. One hundred percent of the 2007 Condrieu La Doriane is vinified in new oak, and put through malolactic. It is then aged for 11 months prior to bottling. Absolutely exquisite, with the oak pushed to the background, this wine’s fruit character is dominated by apricots, peaches, honeysuckle, and marmalade. The beautiful floral and honeyed fruit aromatics are followed by a sumptuous, full-bodied white that is never heavy (because of good acidity) or flabby. Consume it over the next 2-3 years. While the entire world of wine knows how profound Guigal’s red wines are, they may not know that he continues to demonstrate a complete mastery of white wine varietals, from his lowly Cotes du Rhone blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Clairette, and Bourboulenc, to his seriously-endowed dry whites from the northern Rhone. There are two cuvees of white Hermitage. The luxury offering, Ex-Voto, comes from five acres of 90-year old Marsanne vines planted in two separate vineyards on Hermitage Hill - l’Ermite and Les Murets. As the following notes indicate, Guigal has set aside a number of barrels that could make up the 2007 Ex-Voto, but he is not yet sure the quality will be high enough as this must be a wine of great richness and complexity. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 96 –96
I loved the 2006 Condrieu la Doriane and this fat, full-bodied and unctuous effort offers exotics notes of caramelized peach, orange marmalade, sappy flowers and a touch of minerality. Like the 2007, it shows some evolution, yet is fresh, lively and pure.
Rating: 97 –97
There are 15,000 bottles of the 2006 Condrieu la Doriane. With laser-like precision in addition to extraordinary notes of crushed rock, nectarine, marmalade, white peach, and spring flowers, it is a compelling Condrieu to enjoy over the next several years. As always, a tasting at Guigal is an opportunity to receive several years’ worth of wine education in one day (that’s how long it takes to go through all the bottles and barrels). Marcel Guigal is obviously a brilliant businessman, but most importantly, he understands vineyards, how to get maximum quality from them, and how to make wines, at all different price levels. From his Cotes du Rhones to Cote Roties, these wines are as good as one is likely to find. When I first visited Guigal nearly thirty years ago, this was a relatively small firm. Today, his may be the most successful wine operation in France. Guigal attributes his success to hard work and never being satisfied with the status quo. He pays the highest prices of any negociant for the fruit used to fashion his Cotes du Rhone as well as other negociant wines. He has also been extraordinarily adept at buying fabulous terroirs, as evidenced by his purchase of the De Vallouit properties in Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage as well as Grippat’s top-notch vineyard holdings in St.-Joseph. Along with the late Thomas Jefferson, Guigal has always believed that white Hermitage is France’s greatest white wine. With his recent acquisitions of superb vineyard sites, he is hell-bent on proving to the world that Jefferson was correct – that white Hermitage is an amazing as well as long-lived wine. In top vintages, two cuvees are produced, the regular offering (usually a blend of primarily Marsanne with a touch of Roussanne) and the luxury cuvee called Ex-Voto, which is generally 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne from two stunning vineyards. Eighty percent comes from Les Murets (regarded as one of the appellation’s finest white wine vineyards) and 20% from l’Ermite.Tasting through Guigal’s new and up-coming releases confirms his legendary consistency. He is the quintessential multitasker, fashioning inexpensive fine wines as well as super-luxurious, utterly profound reds and whites. When Guigal purchased the Grippat holdings, he received six acres of the Vignes de l’Hospice, a stunningly steep, photogenic vineyard at the top of the northern sector of St.-Joseph, looking down on the town of Tournon. These are the same decomposed granitic soils found across the river in Hermitage’s Les Bessards vineyard. Everything Guigal has produced from this vineyard has been as profound as St.-Joseph can be. In fact, his only competitor is Michel Chapoutier’s 500 or so cases of St.-Joseph Les Granits.Marcel’s talented son, Philippe, is taking over more and more of the business, and appears more than capable of filling the extraordinary shoes of his father, who I doubt will ever retire. I reviewed Guigal’s Cotes du Rhones and Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #173 (October, 2007), but he also continues to be an active buyer of high quality juice from Gigondas. He accomplishes this by tasting hundreds of samples, visiting 50-60 caves, and paying the highest price for his purchases. Guigal is unquestionably the most important producer of Cote Rotie. He buys grapes from nearly four dozen small growers, and supplements that from his own holdings. The single vineyard cuvees are excluded from this blend, but all his Cote Roties are vinified in his cellars. Guigal produces around 2,000 cases of Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis, a cuvee he first made in 1995. About 7% Viognier is included in the blend, and the sources for the fruit are all fabulous sites from both the Cote Blonde and Cote Brune. According to Guigal, research in France’s National Archives prove that in its past, Chateau d’Ampuis produced Cote Rotie from these same sites Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 96 –96
The 2006 Condrieu La Doriane reveals a classic honeysuckle scent interwoven with touches of smoke and apricot marmalade. Full-bodied, intense, and complex with undeniable minerality, this is a sensational wine to enjoy over the next year. While the entire world of wine knows how profound Guigal’s red wines are, they may not know that he continues to demonstrate a complete mastery of white wine varietals, from his lowly Cotes du Rhone blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Clairette, and Bourboulenc, to his seriously-endowed dry whites from the northern Rhone. There are two cuvees of white Hermitage. The luxury offering, Ex-Voto, comes from five acres of 90-year old Marsanne vines planted in two separate vineyards on Hermitage Hill - l’Ermite and Les Murets. As the following notes indicate, Guigal has set aside a number of barrels that could make up the 2007 Ex-Voto, but he is not yet sure the quality will be high enough as this must be a wine of great richness and complexity. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 87 –87
Showing that you can wait too long, the 2005 Condrieu la Doriane is slightly tired and is starting to show some cracks around the edges. Its deeper gold color is followed by evolved notes of caramelized fruits, backed apples and toast. It still has full-bodied richness and depth on the palate, but should have been drunk up by now.
Rating: 96 –96
Guigal is the largest producer of Condrieu, and he continues to augment his production from this tiny appellation. His 2005 Condrieu La Doriane is one of the finest he has ever made. The wine is just spectacular and in 2005 went through 100% malolactic. The wine is sensationally rich with notes of crushed rocks, white peach, spring flowers, and some bee’s wax and tropical oils. Totally profound, with fabulous acidity, amazing richness and length, this is a stunner that should drink well for 4-5 years, possibly longer. Experience has taught me that confidence in Condrieu to hold up with aging is a fool’s game, so enjoy this wine’s early appeal and its fabulous aromatics. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 94 –94
The brilliant 2005 Condrieu La Doriane (aged in 100% new oak) boasts a classic Condrieu nose of buttered almonds, marzipan, lychee nuts, white peaches, and tropical fruits presented in a full-bodied, unctuous format with excellent acidity, depth, and earthiness. It should drink well for several years. As always, a tasting at Guigal is an opportunity to receive several years’ worth of wine education in one day (that’s how long it takes to go through all the bottles and barrels). Marcel Guigal is obviously a brilliant businessman, but most importantly, he understands vineyards, how to get maximum quality from them, and how to make wines, at all different price levels. From his Cotes du Rhones to Cote Roties, these wines are as good as one is likely to find. When I first visited Guigal nearly thirty years ago, this was a relatively small firm. Today, his may be the most successful wine operation in France. Guigal attributes his success to hard work and never being satisfied with the status quo. He pays the highest prices of any negociant for the fruit used to fashion his Cotes du Rhone as well as other negociant wines. He has also been extraordinarily adept at buying fabulous terroirs, as evidenced by his purchase of the De Vallouit properties in Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage as well as Grippat’s top-notch vineyard holdings in St.-Joseph. Along with the late Thomas Jefferson, Guigal has always believed that white Hermitage is France’s greatest white wine. With his recent acquisitions of superb vineyard sites, he is hell-bent on proving to the world that Jefferson was correct – that white Hermitage is an amazing as well as long-lived wine. In top vintages, two cuvees are produced, the regular offering (usually a blend of primarily Marsanne with a touch of Roussanne) and the luxury cuvee called Ex-Voto, which is generally 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne from two stunning vineyards. Eighty percent comes from Les Murets (regarded as one of the appellation’s finest white wine vineyards) and 20% from l’Ermite.Tasting through Guigal’s new and up-coming releases confirms his legendary consistency. He is the quintessential multitasker, fashioning inexpensive fine wines as well as super-luxurious, utterly profound reds and whites. When Guigal purchased the Grippat holdings, he received six acres of the Vignes de l’Hospice, a stunningly steep, photogenic vineyard at the top of the northern sector of St.-Joseph, looking down on the town of Tournon. These are the same decomposed granitic soils found across the river in Hermitage’s Les Bessards vineyard. Everything Guigal has produced from this vineyard has been as profound as St.-Joseph can be. In fact, his only competitor is Michel Chapoutier’s 500 or so cases of St.-Joseph Les Granits.Marcel’s talented son, Philippe, is taking over more and more of the business, and appears more than capable of filling the extraordinary shoes of his father, who I doubt will ever retire. I reviewed Guigal’s Cotes du Rhones and Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #173 (October, 2007), but he also continues to be an active buyer of high quality juice from Gigondas. He accomplishes this by tasting hundreds of samples, visiting 50-60 caves, and paying the highest price for his purchases. Guigal is unquestionably the most important producer of Cote Rotie. He buys grapes from nearly four dozen small growers, and supplements that from his own holdings. The single vineyard cuvees are excluded from this blend, but all his Cote Roties are vinified in his cellars. Guigal produces around 2,000 cases of Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis, a cuvee he first made in 1995. About 7% Viognier is included in the blend, and the sources for the fruit are all fabulous sites from both the Cote Blonde and Cote Brune. According to Guigal, research in France’s National Archives prove that in its past, Chateau d’Ampuis produced Cote Rotie from these same sites Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 94 –94
Looking back at what was a truly profound vintage for Condrieu, both of Guigal’s cuvees of 2004 are still going strong, and still revealing wonderful aromatics and flavor intensity. No doubt this vintage, which also had high acidity, much like 2005, has added a dimension of limited longevity to Condrieu that it rarely possesses. Almost as good as the magnificent 2005, the 2004 Condrieu La Doriane is showing even better this year than it did last. This wine, which is 100% barrel-fermented and aged on its lees with routine batonnage, has exceptionally intense notes of litchi, almonds, marzipan, and honeyed tropical fruits in a full-bodied, unctuous style that is buttressed by tremendous acidity. This is an amazing example of Condrieu year in and year out. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 92 –94
Now this I love. Again, quite muted on the nose, but some minerally, quite Burgundian scents begin to emerge after a minute or two in the glass. Touch of geraniums developing there? The palate is quite spicy, tight, zesty acidity with minerals, white peach and white flowers. Very focused, much more weight than the regular Condrieu, though the finish is a little abrupt at the moment. Great potential. Tasted May 2006.
Rating: 93 –93
There are approximately 10,000 bottles of the luxury cuvee, the 2004 Condrieu La Doriane. One-hundred percent barrel-fermented and aged on its lees with routine batonnage, it exhibits intense mineral notes intermixed with honeysuckle, peach, and floral components. Although tight at present, it reveals immense intensity as well as potential. It should unfold in 6-12 months, and drink well for 5-6 years ... an unusually long life for Condrieu. There are many admirable things about Marcel Guigal, but most significant is that he has been a qualitative locomotive that has brought attention to the Rhone Valley, and has raised the quality bar for the entire region. More importantly, he realizes that most consumers will have access only to his least expensive wines from the Cotes du Rhone, so he has made every effort to continue to increase the quality of both his white and red Cotes du Rhones. His Cotes du Rhone whites have jumped in quality as he has settled on a general blend of approximately 50% Viognier and the rest Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Grenache Blanc. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 96 –96
There is only half the normal production of the Condrieu La Doriane (100% barrel-fermented and aged on its lees with routine batonnage) in 2003 because of the vintage’s absurdly low yields. What is in the bottle, however, is spectacular. An exotic, flamboyant white, it boasts marvelous concentration, huge fruit, and a fragrant perfume of smoke, honeysuckle, and confiture of white currants. Drink it over the next 1-3 years. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 94 –94
There are 10,000 bottles of the luxury cuvee, the 2001 Condrieu La Doriane. One of the appellation’s most distinctive and complex offerings, it offers up a fragrant perfume of incense, smoke, honeysuckle, and jammy white fruits. Unctuously-textured and full-bodied, with tremendous intensity, it should be drunk over the next 1-2 years, although past vintages have held up better in bottle than I predicted. Nevertheless, I prefer these whites in their youth. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 93 –93
The single vineyard 2000 Condrieu La Doriane exhibits smoke, spice, and minerality in addition to tell-tale jammy apricot/peach/honeysuckle notes. While more backward as well as structured than the regular cuvee, it is profoundly concentrated, exotic, and rich. It should drink well for 2-4 years. Guigal produces approximately one-third of Condrieu's total production, and, not surprisingly, his offerings are generally among the top three or four of the vintage. Two-thousand was a better year for whites than reds in the northern Rhone, and that is evidenced by his two cuvees of Condrieu. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 94 –94
The 1999 Condrieu La Doriane emerges from Guigal's own vineyard, which he crop-thinned twice to lower yields. A stunning Condrieu, it offers intense aromas of peaches, apricots, and bananas, as well as a long, multilayered, rich, full-bodied palate with exquisite purity and intensity. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 94 –94
The single-vineyard, spectacularly stunning 1998 Condrieu La Doriane is a wine of huge richness. The natural alcohol is a whopping 14.7% as this vineyard only yielded 10-12 hectoliters per hectare. Dry, with no residual sugar, this fruit-bomb sees some aging in small oak casks, but it serves only to delineate its features as opposed to adding flavor. The wine reveals lavish glycerin in addition to a knock-out bouquet of peaches, bananas, spice, tropical fruits and honey. The low acidity, high alcohol, and extraordinary richness make for a sumptuous impression. It will not make old bones, but for drinking during its first 1-2 years of life, this is a lavishly rich, luxurious dry white that must be tasted to be believed. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 93 –93
Still superb, the 1998 Condrieu La Doriane offers a buttery, smoky, orange marmalade, peach jam-scented bouquet with tell-tale mineral notes. It is an unctuously-textured, rich Condrieu that should drink well for another year. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 94 –94
The single-vineyard Condrieu La Doriane has become one of the three or four finest wines of the appellation. Made from a 4.5 acre parcel, this offering is spectacular in 1997. The 1997 Condrieu La Doriane achieved nearly 14% natural alcohol. Aged in 50% new oak and 50% stainless steel tanks, the wine is put through a complete malolactic fermentation, giving it a creamy, unctuous texture, a trait especially evident in the 1997. While dry, the wine possesses a fabulous nose of tropical fruits intermixed with floral scents and an underlying minerality. Intensely aromatic, spicy, and super-rich, this sensational La Doriane is the finest Guigal has produced from this hillside vineyard overlooking the famous Condrieu hotel/restaurant, Beau-Rivage. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Rating: 93 –93
Guigal, who has replaced Georges Vernay as Mr. Condrieu (he now produces 40% of the appellation's production), has turned out two of the finest 1996 Condrieus. I do not particularly care for the 1996 vintage in Condrieu based on the number of mediocre and disappointing wines I tasted, but Guigal picked much later than most others, did a full malolactic fermentation to reduce the wines' high acidity, and his cold maceration peliculaire fermentation seems to have extracted more fruit than his peers. The single-vineyard 1996 Condrieu La Doriane is unquestionably the wine of the vintage for Condrieu. It is so far superior to anything else I tasted from this appellation, it only adds to my admiration for Guigal's talent. He crop thinned until he had eliminated 35% of the grapes, did a full malolactic fermentation, and aged this wine in both tank and small casks, of which 55% were new. The wine boasts a stunning floral and tropical fruit-scented nose with underlying honey and apricot liqueur-like aromas. Rich and medium to full-bodied, it possesses gorgeous freshness, vibrancy, and enough acidity for definition. This expressive, expansive, full-bodied, dry, fruit-filled Condrieu is a thrill to drink. Consume it over the next 3-5 years. Guigal is one of the cellars where the wines always taste better after they are bottled than they do from cask, although as the scores in this segment indicate, some profound wines can be found in the 1994, 1995, and 1996 vintages Chez Guigal. Guigal's impression of the 1996 vintage is that it was significantly more successful in the north than the south, but one of the characteristics in both northern and southern Rhone wines is high acidity - in both white and red wine cuvees. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 731-6644
Rating: 93 –93
The 1995 is spectacular. It is vinified in 50% new oak and 50% tank and then the wine is blended together. This superb single-vineyard Condrieu displays a knockout nose of minerals, licorice, honey, and ripe peaches. Full-bodied, with a silky texture, gorgeous layers of fruit, and a dry, opulent finish, this exquisite Condrieu is my early candidate for Condrieu of the Vintage. Given how well the 1994 La Doriane is aging in bottle, this wine's window of drinkability may be broader than I initially suspected-perhaps 4-6 years (although I would still opt for drinking it within 2-3 years of the vintage). Last tasted 6/96.
Rating: 92 –95
The 1995 Condrieu La Doriane is spectacular. It is vinified in 50% new oak and 50% tank and then the wine is blended together. This superb single-vineyard Condrieu displays a knock-out nose of minerals, licorice, honey, and ripe peaches. Full-bodied, with a silky texture, gorgeous layers of fruit, and a dry, opulent finish, this exquisite Condrieu is my early candidate for "Condrieu of the vintage." Given how well the 1994 La Doriane is aging in bottle, this wine's window of drinkability may be broader than I initially suspected - 4-6 years, perhaps (although I would still opt for drinking it within 2-3 years of the vintage). As readers will discern from a thorough reading of this report, 1995 was an irregular vintage in Condrieu. Producers either hit the bull's eye or missed it completely. Guigal believes that too many growers panicked, thinking they had to harvest very early (as in 1994), when in fact the weather turned out to favor those who had patience and the guts to wait. He also believes many growers made a critical error by not destemming in 1995, since the stems were very vegetal and added too much acidity to the wine (an established fact born out in my tastings). Guigal is now the single largest producer of Condrieu. Guigal still has a couple of difficult vintages to bottle, but his 1992s have turned out surprisingly strong. In addition, the 1993s are satisfying for the vintage. Following 1993 are two great vintages for Guigal - 1994 and 1995. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (818) 548-1200
Rating: 94 –94
1994 is the debut vintage of La Doriane and 10,000 bottles of this exquisite Condrieu were produced. The vines average 15 years of age. Guigal fermented half of the wine in barrel and half in tank and then blended. The wine reveals a stunning degree of richness, intensity, and complexity. Extremely full-bodied, with an unctuous texture, considerable complexity and finesse, it displays no evidence of barrel fermentation in its huge nose of honeyed apricots, peaches, and floral scents. Layers of concentration are buttressed by enough acidity to give freshness and delineation to the wine's copious fruit components. It is an exquisite, rich Condrieu that gets my nod as one of the finest dry Condrieus of the vintage, rivaling those great wines produced by Yves Cuilleron, Georges Vernay, and Andre Perret. It should drink well for 1-3 more years. Last tasted 6/96.
Rating: 94 –94
1994 is the debut vintage of La Doriane and 10,000 bottles of this exquisite Condrieu were produced. The vines average 15 years of age. Guigal fermented half of the wine in barrel and half in tank and then blended them. This exquisite Condrieu requires decanting and some breathing. As delicious as it is once the cork is popped, having had three bottles of it I have noticed that within 10-15 minutes of opening, the wine takes on a stunning degree of richness, intensity, and complexity. Extremely full-bodied, with an unctuous texture, considerable complexity and finesse, it displays no evidence of barrel fermentation in its huge nose of honeyed apricots, peaches, and floral scents. Layers of concentration are buttressed by enough acidity to give freshness and delineation to the wine's copious fruit components. It is an exquisite, rich Condrieu that gets my nod as one of the finest dry Condrieus of the vintage, rivaling those great wines produced by Yves Cuilleron, Georges Vernay, and Andre Perret. It should drink well for 2-3 years. This wine was tasted in September, 1995, from bottle, unless otherwise noted. Prices quoted are based on the current exchange rate of five francs per dollar. Guigal, along with Georges Vernay, is one of the two most important Condrieu producers. This estate has steadily increased their production of Condrieu, and several years ago purchased the 5-acre La Doriane vineyard, adjacent to Chateau Grillet. Guigal did not feel the quality of the 1993 was high enough to merit a vineyard-designated cuvee, so it was blended with his regular Condrieu. Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 731-6644
Rating: 95 –95
(aged for eight months in new oak barrels) Light bright yellow. Expansive aromas of ripe nectarine, pear liqueur, candied fig and pungent flowers, along with a smoky mineral nuance that builds in the background. Palate-staining, impressively concentrated citrus and pit fruit flavors show superb clarity and become more energetic with air, picking up a touch of lemon curd. The mineral and floral qualities come back emphatically on the extremely persistent, penetrating finish, which shows a suave blend of power and finesse.
Produced from the top 5 terroirs of this famed appellation, La Doriane is an extremely intense wine with a complex range of aromas. On the palate, it is round and fleshy with a lovely freshness which brings harmony.