Critic ratings
vinous
2016
Rating:
92
–92
The 2016 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a relatively opulent bouquet, quite powerful with yellow plum and honeysuckle aromas, just a hint of fish oil in the background (actually a tincture that I love). The palate is well balanced with a precise, stem ginger-tinged entry, very good depth in the mouth with a persistent, light spiced finish not unlike Les Preuses in style. Excellent.
vinous
2016
Rating:
90
–92
(less than 15 hectoliters per hectare produced, due to hail): Palish yellow. White peach, subtle spices, menthol and a stony nuance on the nose. Opulent and rich but more shapely than the other two grand crus, with an almost tannic quality giving grip to the finish, which hints at slightly exotic fruits. With its richness and reserve, this wine represents a nice compromise between the Vaudésir and the Bougros. Drouhin used larger-format barrels here to protect the wine's verve, noted Faure-Brac.
vinous
2019
Rating:
93
–93
The 2019 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru, matured in used 500-liter barrels, has a perfumed bouquet of Granny Smith apples, sliced pear, crushed rock and light dewy pasture aromas. The palate is well balanced with more weight than the Bougros, fine acidity and a light flintiness coming toward the pure finish. Excellent.
robert_parker
2012
Rating:
91
–93
The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has a reticent, stony bouquet that takes time to unfurl with hints of orange zest and gunflint. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry. Taut and focused with light marine-like scents, it has a composed finish that just needs to develop a little more complexity in bottle.
The matriarch of Maison Joseph Drouhin, Veronique Drouhin, escorted a group of writers and scribes through her 2012s in London, except for the Grands Echezeaux that happened to not be showing well. Hers were the only 2012s tasted outside Burgundy for this report, in respect of the miniscule quantities. Less for us critics: more for punters, even if it is a drop. The omnipresent story of depleted crops was the same here. In fact, 2012 is their smallest vintage for 50 years. “Everything that you think could happen, did happen,” rued Veronique in her fluent English. “We had frost, hail, storms and even sunburn.” There was some redemption though, a vital one too. “The only thing we did not get was botrytis and so the fruit was healthy. There had been a poor fruit set and a lot of coulure and millerandage. This meant the berries were small and not clustered close together, allowing good air flow between the berries and therefore inhibiting grey rot.” However, the unpredictable growing season proved challenging in the vineyard. “We are 100% organic, so we had to go over and over in the vines. We had to use natural responses to natural problems.” The 2012 vintage also demanded prudent approaches in the winery that could enhance the wines. “One of the most surprising things we found was that it took five to seven days for the fermentation to start. During this period you could extract some interesting things (color, polyphenols etc). Also, we found that the fruit had a long post-fermentation period of up to two weeks, which also benefited the complexity of the fruit. We also had a different approach to the vin de press. When we pressed the white grapes, we separated the end pressings. Using whole clusters means that the stems tend to increase the pH and the acidity goes much lower, which can dilute the cuvee. We had to separate the vin de presse and work each one differently. But in 2012 we did not include much of the vin de presse.” The vinification of such a small quantities springs its own set of problems; after all, you cannot fill all your barrels with marbles to keep them topped up. Fortunately, there was plenty of time to prepare because the February frost had burnt the buds. Poor flowering and fruit set early in the growing season meant that there was plenty of time to place orders for appropriately-sized barrels. “We used 500-liter barrels, which were very useful and similarly sized stainless tell vessels for the wines,” Veronique explained. “We hired a person who specializes in bottling small quantities. Jerome likes them (500-liter barrels) very much. They do not extract much, but they can make very elegant wines.” Perhaps one silver lining is that it has given producers such as Drouhin experience of using alternatively sized vessels that may be used in the future when vintages are more bountiful. At the end of the day, Drouhin have overseen another impressive set of Burgundy wines. While they do not possess the structure of the 2010s, the acidity levels are not dissimilar, although they seem to have more sweetness on the finishes. I concur with Veronique that two appellations that prospered in this vintage are Chassagne in the Cotes de Beaune and Chambolle in the Cotes de Nuits. In particular, the latter is very strong chez Drouhin in 2012, right down to the village cru. She also opined that Rully exceeded expectations, perhaps because the vines were so affected by hail in 2011 and strove to compensate in the following year. Here both the white and red come highly recommended and will probably represent good value. Prices are expected to rise, possibly 10-15% for the village and premier crus, 20% for the grand crus, although nothing had been set at time of writing.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770 and through several importers in the UK via Pol Roger UK Ltd.
robert_parker
2007
Rating:
91
–91
Very closed on the nose, again developing a touch of pear drop with time – Alpine streams. Good definition. The palate has a vibrant sense of mineralite, flinty, good weight, just lacking a little depth on the finish but this is a very good Chablis from Drouhin. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted January 2009.
robert_parker
2007
Rating:
91
–91
In a surprising apparent role reversal that Veronique Boss-Drouhin cautions may be temporary, her 2007 Chablis Les Clos occupies the palate more with luscious, ripe white peach and lime, and less with mineral matter than the corresponding Vaudesir. Hints of strawberry and vanilla and a fine saline savor add allure, and it finishes with palpable density and persistence of fruit skin phenolics, but not much overt chalkiness for a young wine from its site. It should be well worth re-visiting over at minimum a 7- to 9-year period, and may well need time to demonstrate its true distinction.
Drouhin 2007 Chablis offerings aptly illustrate the house style: understated yet immediately engaging and full of nuance, polished but not in the least superficial.
Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
robert_parker
2006
Rating:
91
–91
Old selection massale vines help endow the Drouhin 2006 Chablis Les Clos with deep, rich purple plum and lobster sweetness, complemented by hints of salt, zesty citrus, and bitter fruit pit. Undeniably dense, this misses a bit of the mystery as well as the refinement of the Vaudesir, and the oak influence is a bit more noticeable. But it’s early days, and one can with reasonable confidence predict at least a decade of interesting bottle evolution.
The Drouhins now own or control nearly 100 acres in Chablis,
Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
robert_parker
2006
Rating:
92
–92
A striking smoky nose leaps from the glass: green apple and granite aromas coming through. Wonderful. The palate is slightly honeyed on the entry, very powerful, viscous in texture, a touch of melted butter towards the spicy finish with great length. This is a thrilling Chablis from Drouhin. Drink now-2018. Tasted March 2009.
robert_parker
2004
Rating:
82
–82
A flat nose that seems to display some under-ripeness and that comes through on the disjointed palate that certainly lacks full physiological ripeness. Green finish. Disappointing. Drink now. Tasted February 2007.
robert_parker
2004
Rating:
93
–93
An outstanding wine, Drouhin’s 2004 Chablis Les Clos is fermented and aged in one- to five-year-old barrels. Its toasty mineral and vanilla bean-scented aromatics lead to a medium to full-bodied personality awash in fruits. Creamy minerals and pears are found in its concentrated, focused, and lengthy character. Drink this beauty between 2007 and 2014.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
robert_parker
2003
Rating:
88
–90
An exotic, peachy apricot-tinged nose with white flowers developing in the glass. The palate is quite sweet with notes of orange peel and citrus fruits. Pretty, but not as sophisticated as say Raveneau. 3/06
robert_parker
2003
Rating:
89
–89
Though not reminiscent of a wine from its terroir due to its fruity, lush personality, the 2003 Chablis Les Clos (white) exhibits a nose of sweet, ripe, pulp-laden pears. Its spicy, mineral-dominated core reveals candied apple as well as pear flavors. Broad, plush, and extroverted, this medium-bodied wine would have earned an outstanding score if its finish had been longer. Drink it over the next 5-6 years.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
robert_parker
2000
Rating:
90
–90
The floral 2000 Chablis Les Clos is medium to full-bodied, and loaded with gun flint, mineral, and spice flavors. This wine has outstanding depth, balance, concentration, and length. It is seamless, highly expressive, and built to last. Projected maturity: now-2012.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770.
robert_parker
1999
Rating:
88
–88
The flint and oak-scented 1999 Chablis Les Clos is tight, light to medium-bodied, and well-balanced. This silky-textured, pear and white flower-flavored wine has good depth, yet lacks the concentration or finish for a more exalted review. Drink it over the next 5 years.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.
robert_parker
2013
Rating:
92
–92
The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos was picked on October 3, whole-cluster fruit and aged for ten months in a combination of tank and wood. Bottled on August '14 it has a light, beeswax-tinged bouquet that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is elegant and pretty with white peach and touches of orange sorbet, crisp acidity and a finish that flows nicely toward its conclusion. It is a sophisticated Chablis, but I feel it is surpassed by the superb Vaudésir this year.