vinous 2018
Rating: 94 –95
Musky narcissus and peony, decadent lily and honeysuckle soar from the glass, accompanied by almond and pit-inflected white peach, both of the latter simultaneously fresh as well as in the form of high-toned, distillate-like essences. A rich, silken texture complements luscious ripeness of fruit for a palate impression that conjures slight, supportive sweetness (even though, analytically speaking, the wine is deep into legally <em>trocken</em> territory). The finish is mouthwateringly salt-tinged, rich and resonant, with persistent hickory nut and peach kernel piquancy accompanied by a haunting inner-mouth reprise of floral perfume. This took nearly a year just to finish fermenting. Bottling was anticipated early in 2020.