robert_parker
2007
Rating:
92
–92
From old vines practically adjacent to Montrachet, Cournut’s 2007 Batard Montrachet is emphasizes the “bitter” in “bittersweet,” with iris and lemon zest aromatics; peach kernel, chalk, alkalinity, and deeply toasted nuts on the palate; and a gripping finish combining crushed stone, pepper, nuts, and citrus oils. This is like a bastard child of the vintage in favoring a rather dark, austere side one seldom encounters in this site. It lacks the textural refinement or sheer electricity of the Dents de Chien, but from it, too, I would anticipate close to a decade’s worth of fascinating, and perhaps even formidable evolution.
Jean-Pierre Cournut brought in the majority of his crop during the second week of September. He chaptalized most wines around a degree, resulting in finished alcohols typically close to 13.5%, and occasionally noticeable. Like Cournut himself, his wines seem full of nervous energy and fearlessly willing to go their own distinctive ways without trying to flatter.
A Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), Domaines et Saveurs, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-25-04-81; also imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700
robert_parker
1996
Rating:
93
–93
Slightly less than half of the Batard-Montrachet's total production is presently located at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean. This is heart-wrenching as Cornut has fashioned a fabulous, rich, sweet, white flower, and anise-scented beauty. Superb ripeness, lively minerals and lemons, as well as razor-sharp precision, depth, and complexity are found in its oily and powerful character. This Batard-Montrachet's admirable finish reveals wonderful purity and traces of sea shells, toasty oak, and candied almonds. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2007.
Represented by Domaines et Saveurs Collection, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, French Fax: 33-3-80-22-58-25.
robert_parker
1992
Rating:
93
–93
The fabulous 1992 Batard-Montrachet offers a huge nose of spring flowers, honeysuckle, melted butter, and toast. The stupendous concentration, unctuous texture, and fleshy, full-bodied, low acid, superbly concentrated flavors combine to provide a huge, massive mouthful of Chardonnay fruit. This terrific wine should age well for at least 5-7 years.
I did not taste through the entire range of Maltroye whites as many were just being bottled. A new generation has taken control, and the appallingly high levels of SO2 utilized in the past have been cut to a minimum. This is an estate on the verge of fully exploiting its potential.
A Jeanne-Marie Deschamps Selections, various importers.
