Critic ratings
robert_parker
NV
Rating:
92
–92
Boërl & Kroff have produced only one rendition of their NV Brut to date, and the wine is showing well, opening in the glass with aromas of toasted bread, smoke, citrus rind and honeyed orchard fruit. On the palate, it's full-bodied, powerful and structured, with ripe acids but a lively core of fruit and a muscular, textural profile that's typical of the house style.
robert_parker
2006
Rating:
95
–95
The 2006 Brut wafts from the glass with aromas of ripe citrus fruit, warm bread, smoke and honeycomb that mingle with nuances of bitter orange, fresh field mushrooms and walnuts. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny textured, rich and muscular, with impressive amplitude and concentration, a lively spine of acidity and chewy structuring extract, concluding with a long and nicely defined finish. Sabaté wonders aloud whether it was disgorged too soon, but there's no denying it's showing very well today, capturing the richness of the vintage without any of its potential heaviness.
robert_parker
2002
Rating:
95
–95
Most of the 2002 Brut from Boërl & Kroff was bottled in 750-milliliter bottles, so only 800 magnums were produced—a surprising decision, given the vintage, and one Sabaté now laments. Offering up a rich but youthful bouquet of waxy lemon rind, mandarin, warm biscuits, candied peel and honeycomb, this is a full-bodied, vinous Champagne with considerable structure and concentration, with its creamy and muscular profile exemplifying the house style. Long and powerful, it's a terrific wine that will delight admirers of old fashioned Champagne.
robert_parker
1998
Rating:
97
–97
Interestingly, the highlight of this tasting was not the 1996 or 1995 but rather the 1998 Brut, perhaps because the wine is actually fully mature. Bursting with a complex bouquet that marries scents of mandarin, peach, vanilla pod and beeswax with nuances of English walnuts and fresh mushrooms, it's a full-bodied, rich and expansive Champagne that's concentrated and gourmand but impressively racy and precise despite its textural, muscular style, concluding with a long and sapid finish. I suspect the 1998 will be shorter lived than the 1996 and 1995—though of course it's certainly in no danger of decline any time soon—but it would be my pick for drinking today.
robert_parker
1996
Rating:
96
–96
The 1996 Brut is evolving very gracefully, and it showed exceptionally in this tasting, revealing a complex, gently iodine-inflected bouquet of Meyer lemon, honeycomb, marzipan, fresh mushroom and woodsmoke. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and searingly incisive, with immense concentration, a racy spine and a long, chalky finish. With impressive dry extract and flesh to balance its acids, I suspect the 1996 will improve further with additional bottle age, though it is already drinking very well today.
robert_parker
1995
Rating:
96
–96
The first wine ever produced under the Boërl & Kroff label was the 1995 Brut, and it is still an immensely youthful, concentrated wine that I believe could withstand comparison with many of this overlooked vintage's finest efforts. Wafting from the glass with aromas of iodine, warm bread, beeswax, English walnuts, dried orange peel and dried white flowers, it's full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with considerable chalky structure, lively acids and a long, vinous finish. While this displays some gently oxidative elements, that only brings additional complexity, and the 1995 still has the better part of two decade's longevity ahead of it.