Critic ratings
robert_parker
2007
Rating:
90
–90
A musky, smoky aura in the nose of the Boxler 2007 Pinot Gris Brand leads to a dark, low-toned, subtly creamy palate dominated by veal stock, peach preserves, toasted nuts, and alkalinity, though thankfully not by the wine’s unexpectedly near-40 grams residual sugar. Here, though, nobody would mistake Pinot Gris for Riesling as might momentarily happen with others of its vintage. The imposing density and richness that this wine wears on its sleeve (and that clearly buffer its residual sugar) could use the assistance of a bit more primary fruit juiciness and the overall impression is of opulence with opacity. Still, this should be worth following for 15 or more years. It incorporates two parcels, incidentally, from one of which Boxler more usually harvests vendange tardive.
Jean Boxler emphasizes the contrast between one of the earliest and hastiest harvest ever at his family’s estate – “just three days after I finished bottling the 2005s, and then every day, including Sunday” – in order to salvage clean fruit in 2006; and the protracted harvest of 2007. “In fact,” he explains, “I started in 2006 with the intention of harvesting grapes for cremant, but they were already too ripe.” Thanks to meticulous vineyard practices and early picking, a surprisingly consistent and satisfying collection resulted. “Half the fruit was already on the ground,” he observes, by the time he could pick his best sites. Boxler’s crew knows the difference between good and bad botrytis, he assured me, yet even so, each carried a second bucket into which to drop any fruit about which uncertainty remained, and those lots were subjected to test pressings and severe scrutiny, generally ending up discarded. Boxler’s best 2007s are predictably finer, more structured, and more refined, although the vintage’s superiority is only obvious when it comes to single-vineyard bottlings. “I could live with a vintage like it every year,” he quips. When asked about his aspirations and his role in upholding the reputation of his family’s extraordinary estate, Jean Boxler says he does not want to get any bigger so as to keep complete control, and adds that he doesn’t have a single day free from his vineyards and cellar to go out and sell wine anywhere, so Americans should please not feel offended that he hasn’t – save for a brief, youthful stage in Oregon – ever visited them!
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
robert_parker
2006
Rating:
90
–90
Boxler’s 2006 Pinot Gris Brand exhibits a purity and clarity that the generic bottling was lacked, yet there is enormous richness here as well. Mirabelle and apricot preserves, and litchi mingle with quinine, smoky black tea, and toasted almond. A hint of sweetness is nicely complimented by bitter fruit pit and stoniness in the long finish. I suspect this will hold at least as well as the corresponding Rieslings of the vintage, which is to say, though, that it should be enjoyed over the next several years.
Jean Boxler emphasizes the contrast between one of the earliest and hastiest harvest ever at his family’s estate – “just three days after I finished bottling the 2005s, and then every day, including Sunday” – in order to salvage clean fruit in 2006; and the protracted harvest of 2007. “In fact,” he explains, “I started in 2006 with the intention of harvesting grapes for cremant, but they were already too ripe.” Thanks to meticulous vineyard practices and early picking, a surprisingly consistent and satisfying collection resulted. “Half the fruit was already on the ground,” he observes, by the time he could pick his best sites. Boxler’s crew knows the difference between good and bad botrytis, he assured me, yet even so, each carried a second bucket into which to drop any fruit about which uncertainty remained, and those lots were subjected to test pressings and severe scrutiny, generally ending up discarded. Boxler’s best 2007s are predictably finer, more structured, and more refined, although the vintage’s superiority is only obvious when it comes to single-vineyard bottlings. “I could live with a vintage like it every year,” he quips. When asked about his aspirations and his role in upholding the reputation of his family’s extraordinary estate, Jean Boxler says he does not want to get any bigger so as to keep complete control, and adds that he doesn’t have a single day free from his vineyards and cellar to go out and sell wine anywhere, so Americans should please not feel offended that he hasn’t – save for a brief, youthful stage in Oregon – ever visited them!
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
robert_parker
2005
Rating:
91
–91
The 2005 Pinot Gris Brand exhibits yellow plum preserve and brown spice aromas, a satin-textured, buttery but persistently juicy and somehow delicate palate, and a long, brown spice- and smoke-inflected finish of plum and quince preserves. This should become more interesting with a few years, during which the sweetness will back off, though I am not sure it would be worth holding it in anticipation of the point where one could say it tastes “dry.”
The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “low end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
robert_parker
2014
Rating:
93
–93
The 2014 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Brand is very clear and elegant on the nose and again doesn’t show any hints of drosophila due to a very strict selection in the vineyards. Instead there is ripeness, purity and minerality. On the palate this a rich and creamy textured wine with power, concentration, fine tannins and a remarkable finesse. It is a rather medium-dry Pinot that should be aged for ten or more years.
robert_parker
2015
Rating:
94
–94
From 35+-year-old vines, the 2015 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Brand offers a deep, clear, bright and intense bouquet with stony and smoky bacon aromas. The nose is fresh and pure, with even some lemon aromas. The attack on the palate is fresh and piquant but also finessed and elegant. There is a certain sweetness and clearly lush fruit on the palate but also purity with fine tannins intertwined with the dancing grip and salinity. The finish is very long and complex. This is great a Pinot Gris in the dry style.
robert_parker
2016
Rating:
93
–93
The dry (!) 2016 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Brand is clear and piquant on the flinty nose that is dominated by ripe white fruit aromas. Intense and powerful on the palate, this is a rich but elegant and refined Pinot with fine tannins and a long finish with nice bitters. Tasted October 2018.
