Wine Advisor
Pio Cesare, Barolo 1990
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The two cuvees of 1990 Barolo are made along lines similar to the 1989 Barolos. The 1990 Barolo is an intensely flavored, aromatic (tar, roses, black-cherries) wine, with full body, a succulent texture, gobs of fruit, and high tannin in the finish. Cellar it for 2-3 years and drink it over the next 20. It has been twenty plus years since this estate has produced Barolos of such stature. Pio Cesare has turned out two full-bodied, concentrated, deeply flavored wines that should age for up to two decades. Because of the abundant sweet fruit and ripe tannin in 1989 and 1990, the wines can be approached when released. How delighted I am to see Pio Cesare turn out Barbarescos and Barolos of such high quality! Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL.
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
Pio Cesare’s 1990 Barolo is one of the protagonists of the Barolo Boom years that would soon follow this legendary vintage. The historic estate celebrated its 100th anniversary in 1981. With fruit sourced from family-owned vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, La Morra and Grinzane Cavour and additional fruit from Castiglione Falletto and Barolo, this is a classic interpretation of one of Italy’s greatest wines. The wine is deep into its Golden Years with savory tones of smoked bacon, pencil shavings and saddle leather. It feels flatter and less vibrant that I would have hoped. This bottle was slightly past its prime. Drink: 2014-2018.
About the Producer
Located in the Piedmont region of Italy, Pio is one of the oldest wineries in the region and was named one of Wine Spectator's "10 Best Wineries in the World" in 2002. Pio was founded in 1881 by the current owner's great-great-grandfather, Cesare Pio. He was one of the first winemakers and one of the first to adhere to a philosophy of winemaking dedicated to the terroir of the appellation and to the strict demands of quality. Since its foundation, Château Pio has been guided by a commitment to quality that has remained unchanged through four generations. The winery is currently headed by Boffa Pio, a descendant of the family. Today, Pio has over 50 hectares of vineyards in the best areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. In addition to its own vineyards, Bodegas Pio has established long-term partnerships with professional vintners who are responsible for all aspects of the vineyard's viticultural management. In terms of winemaking, Château Piau, under the leadership of its current owner, Boffa Piau, has pioneered the use of stainless steel tanks for the production of its wines. In addition, the winery reduces the amount of time the grapes are macerated on their skins, thus reducing the tannin content of the wine. What's more, the winery's hygiene standards are strictly controlled, resulting in wines that are very pure. Château Piau has a systematic approach to limiting the production of its wines in order to maintain a consistently high quality. 70% of its production is exported. In recent years, the winery has made several major investments in rebuilding the cellars and renovating the winery's equipment: the Roman Empire-era walls remain in place 12 metres underground; new fermenters have been built to take advantage of gravity and a new barrel ageing room has been installed; and new bottling and labelling equipment has been installed.
