Wine Advisor
Pavie Decesse 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Bottled the week of January 16 (a week before I tasted it), the 2009 Pavie Decesse (from a tiny 9-acre vineyard on the limestone slopes above Pavie) is an uncommonly fat, succulent, rich, 1,000-case cuvee with 14.3% alcohol. It boasts an inky/blue/purple hue along with notes of incense, spring flowers, roasted espresso, chocolate, licorice, blackberries and blueberries. Even though it is aged in 100% oak, the wood is virtually non-existent. An inky blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, the wine exhibits a flawless integration of acidity, alcohol and tannin. This opulent, viscous, thick, juicy St.-Emilion will be accessible in 5-7 years and last for three decades.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at Chateau Pavie. Picked on 12th October at 26hl/ha, a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this has a ripe, exotic bouquet lacquered in creamy new oak: macerated black cherries, creme de cassis, black plum and damson jam. Moderate definition. The palate is full-bodied with dense but well balanced tannins, showing more harmony and focus than the Monbousquet, the tannins less aggressive at this stage, although the mouth is still lacquered on the finish. Fine. Tasted March 2010.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Gerard Perse’s tiny 9-acre vineyard has a high density of vines and lots of age on them as well (48 years on average) on pure limestone soils, with a southerly exposure. The final blend here is the classic 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Unfortunately, there are only 1,000 cases from the tiny yields, and the wine, by St.-Emilion standards, is actually not that high in alcohol – 14.3%. A sign of the terrific minerality this wine possesses, crushed rocks jump from the glass of this inky bluish/purple-colored wine. Opaque to the rim, with full-bodied power, a liqueur of rocks intermixed with creme de cassis, spring flowers, black cherry, incense, and virtually no evidence of any oak, alcohol or tannin, the wine is fat, viscous, and opulent. It is a remarkable treat to taste so young, but analytically, the index of tannins is the highest Perse has yet had, even eclipsing the 2005. This wine should drink well for 30-35 or more years. (Tasted four times.)
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Served blind at the Southwold 2009 tasting. Erm…not sure what happened here. Two bottles opened and both showing excessive volatility on the nose and what is commonly termed “dead fruit” on the palate. I will seek to re-taste this, but it is always concerning when two bottles show the same fault. Tasted January 2013.
Reviewed by: Ian d'Agata
(a 90/10 blend of merlot and cabernet franc, cropped at 26 hectoliters per hectare; 14.5% alcohol; 80% new oak) Deep ruby-purple. Wonderfully ethereal nose hints at blackcurrant, violet and flinty minerals. Enters smooth and suave, showing ripe but not exaggerated flavors of dark plum, blackberry syrup and dried herbs. Finishes impressively subtle and very long, with fine-grained tannins, lingering red berry flavor and a whisper of warmth. Made from 48-year-old vines, this appears to be a great Pavie Decesse in the making.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Saturated ruby. Red and black fruit aromas complicated by graham cracker, violet and pungent minerality. Plush, broad and seamless but at the same time energetic and light on its feet, thanks to the lift from calcaire. Despite carrying rich flavors of chocolate, mocha and almost liqueur-like dark berries, this wine shows no mid-palate heaviness. Wonderfully deep, rich, chewy Saint-Emilion with outstanding stony persistence. Like the Pavie, this has a long life ahead of it.
About the Producer
Chateau Pavie Decesse is located in the Saint-Emilion appellation on the right bank of Bordeaux, France, and is one of the Grand Cru Classe of Saint-Emilion. Château Pavie Decesse has strong ties to Premier Grand Cru Classe A, which was originally owned by Château Pavie. In 1885, Ferdinand Bouffard, the owner of Chateau Pavie, decided to reorganise the vineyards and separated a plot of land called "Pigasse", thus giving birth to Château Pavie de Caisse. The estate was then passed on to Mr Marzelle. In 1970, when he died, his wife entrusted the estate to the Valette family, then owners of Château Lafite, who took over the estate in 1990. In 1997, Gerard Perse bought the estate, and the following year, he took it under his wing. Since becoming part of the Perse family, Château de Berfet de Sais has enjoyed the same treatment as Château de Berfet and the quality of its wines has continued to improve. The 3.65 hectares of vineyards of Château Pape de Cais are located on the limestone plateau of Saint-Emilion, next to the vineyards of Château Pape, and have similar terroirs but with different characteristics. The soil is mainly made up of limestone and clay soils and is planted with 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, with an average vine age of 43 years. The limestone gives the wines their freshness, floral aromas and minerality, while the clay provides structure to the finished wines. In the winemaking, Château de Pays follows the modern winemaking philosophy of the Pace family, sharing the same winemaking team as Château Pays. The grapes are harvested by hand after they have ripened and undergo a rigorous manual selection process before moving on to the next stage of the process. Grapes from different plots are fermented separately in three temperature-controlled vats to allow for fine-tuning during the final blend. The maceration lasts three weeks before the wine is transferred to oak barrels for malolactic fermentation. After fermentation, the wine is matured in 80% new French oak barrels for 18-24 months, during which time it is racked every three months. This is followed by blending and bottling. In order to maintain the pure flavour of the wines, no clarification or filtration is carried out on the red wines of Château de Pape de Cais before bottling. Thanks to the excellent terroir, the wines of Château de Pape de Sais are rich and complex, full-bodied, with a fine tannic structure and excellent ageing potential. The red wines of Chateau Pavie Decesse, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe, France, are not only very popular with consumers, but have also been highly praised by prestigious wine critics and magazines.
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