Wine Advisor
Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage La Chapelle Blanc 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
More honeyed, fuller-bodied and exuberant is the 2009 Hermitage La Chapelle Blanc. This gorgeous white wine was aged in 100% French oak barrels, of which 50% were new. It offers up copious aromas of crushed rocks, citrus oil, mangoes, nectarines and acacia flowers as well as hints of licorice and quince. Full-bodied, dense, layered, and elegant as well as powerful and authoritative, it should drink well for 25-30+ years. One needs no further evidence of the extraordinary turn around in the quality of the Jaboulet wines than what proprietress Caroline Frey has accomplished in 2009 as well as 2010. As I indicated last year, this is one of the great qualitative turn arounds in the wine world. It is welcomed by all wine lovers given the historic legacy of the wines of Jaboulet and the importance of this famous firm in all of France. Ms. Frey, who is also responsible for the brilliant wines produced at La Lagune in Bordeaux, has reduced the amount of new oak for the red wines to about 20% and to negligible proportions for the whites. A second wine of Hermitage, La Petite Chapelle, is fashioned from 33% or more of the production that is culled out to guarantee that the great reputation of the Hermitage La Chapelle has enjoyed over the last century is maintained. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The limited production cuvee of 2009 Hermitage La Chapelle Blanc (100% Marsanne) was aged in 50% new French oak barrels. More backward and mineral-dominated than the Sterimberg, it possesses excellent acidity along with notes of citrus oil, nectarines, a liqueur of rocks, apricots and quince. It is a singular style of white Hermitage that would be interesting to taste alongside the single vineyard white Hermitages of Chave, Chapoutier and Guigal. It did not take long for Caroline Frey to whip this somewhat rudderless (following the death of Gerard Jaboulet in the late 1990s) estate into shape. The first few years were transitionary ones, but in 2009 she was aided by what is an exceptional vintage in the Northern Rhone as well as low yields at Jaboulet (20 hectoliters per hectare at Les Bessards and 25 hectoliters per hectare at Le Meal). The result is the greatest vintage at Jaboulet since 1990. Moreover, it is clear they have moved away from a large negociant operation to estate-bottled domaine wines, which all of the following represent. If you have been off the Jaboulet bandwagon over the last decade or so, now is the time to jump back on for both whites and reds. They still own just under 300 acres spread throughout the Rhone Valley, with their biggest holdings 52 acres in Hermitage and 112+ acres at their Domaine de Thalabert in Crozes-Hermitage. As I have indicated before, the Frey family has instituted a strict selection process in order to cull out the finest lots for their flagship wine - Hermitage La Chapelle. Production used to be 8,000-10,000 cases, but for the 2009 Hermitage La Chapelle, which will be the greatest La Chapelle since 1990 and 1978, there are only 2,000 cases. The white wines have jumped considerably in quality. Most are now put through 100% malolactic. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
(100% old vines marsanne) Green-hued gold. Spicy, energetic aromas of grapefruit pith, green apple and lemon thyme, with a deeper note of nectarine. Sharply focused and mineral-driven, offering nervy citrus zest flavors and a more intense orchard fruit quality. Dense but refreshingly lithe on the finish, which echoes the floral and mineral notes.
About the Producer
Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aine is the most famous and most representative winery in the Rhone Valley region of France. Hectares of vineyards and a super winery with an annual output of nearly 4 million bottles. Gabler Winery originated from the Hermitage Mountains. In 1834, Mr. Anthony began to plant grapes in this area, and he has linked his life to this land since then. With his passion and perseverance in winemaking, the quality of the wines produced by the winery has continued to rise to his sons Paul and Henri. And Paul added his own name "Paul" to the name of the winery, and the name Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aine has been used to this day. The Gabor family continued to operate the winery and maintained a high standard until 2006 when the Frey family acquired part of the management rights of the winery. The Frey family have long been winemakers in the Champagne region and are the owners of Chateau La Lagune in Bordeaux. The Hermitage vineyards are located on terraced fields between 130 and 250 meters above sea level, with soils of sand, gravel and gravel blocks in the lower part and brown soil and rocky soil in the upper part. The area is only 26 hectares, in addition to the 5 hectares of white grape varieties, the red grapes are only 21 hectares, scattered around the chapel at the top of the Hermitage hills. 6,000 Syrah vines are planted per hectare, with an average age of 45 years, producing 3,000 liters of wine per hectare. Not only grapes are planted on the Hermitage hills, but also fruits such as cherries and pears are planted in the same proportion. Fruits planted around the vineyards often bring the same fruit aroma to the grapes. In 1919, Hermitage La Chapelle bought the Hermitage La Chapelle, and its top red wine, Hermitage La Chapelle, has been included in the list of the most outstanding red wines in the world. Made from 100% Syrah and aged in oak barrels for 18 months, this wine is known as an exemplary wine of the extraordinary quality and amazing potential of Rhone Valley Syrah. Only 2,500 bottles of Gabora Church Garden red wine are produced each year, and it is said that the quota for the Asian market is only 400 bottles. Production of this wine was discontinued in 1961, and it was produced again after 2006. With a strict winemaking tradition and respect for nature, Gabora Winery produces no more than 4,000 liters per hectare, and each gardener takes care of the vineyard with no more than 2.5 hectares, which is three times less than the average vineyard. In addition, the bottle's unique long neck, dark color and calm design allow the wine to last longer. The wines of Château Gaboraux have now been exported to more than 70 countries. The high-quality grapes and exquisite brewing techniques have created elegant but affordable wines, which perfectly present the rich, powerful and rich and varied characteristics of the wines of the Rhone Valley. Gabora Winery hollowed out a 20-meter-high hill into a 10-meter-high cavity as a natural wine cellar, which is unique. Not only is there natural low temperature here, but the stalactites in the cave are intertwined, making it dizzying.
