Wine Advisor
Michel Niellon, Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru 2013
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
From five and half barrels, the 2013 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru has a clinical nose with wonderful delineation. It is teasingly aloof at first, distant with faint oyster shell and brine notes, but glimpses only. Then it opens the door ajar with limestone and dewy green apple scents. The palate is extremely well balanced with clearly much higher level of tension than the Premier Crus from Niellon. But it is strict and very linear, long but without the peacock’s tail that will develop with time in bottle. There is almost a Riesling-like poise here, a Chevalier to cellar away while you enjoy the more open Bâtard-Montrachet. Excellent.
About the Producer
One of the figureheads of the appellation, Domaine Michel Niellon keeps on proving vintage after vintage that Chassagne is one of the greatest Chardonnay terroirs in Burgundy. The domaine started commercially in the 1960s and 3 generations now take care of the pro[erty: grandson Mathieu and son-in-law Michel Coutuox under the mentorship of 70-year old Michel Niellon. The style of the estate emphasizes the richness and the concentration which is the signature of Chassagne’s terroir yet preserving the intense mineralogy that defines all great Burgundies. Old vines (up yo 80 years in Clos truffière), low yields and attention to detail are the keys to success here and the winemaking only aims at preserving the potential acquired in the vineyard: new oak is limited to 20% max, the maturing is limited to 12 months and the results are expressive wines combining rich fruity aromas and intense mineral notes with beautiful overall balance.
