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Meo Camuzet, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2014
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Description
Meo Camuzet, Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, Still, Red, 2010
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru from Méo-Camuzet is a wine that I needed to be convinced about when I tasted it from barrel, and here in bottle it does nothing to change that view. It has a broody nose with dark berry fruit, cola and dried herbs that feels a little stolid. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet and sour red fruit, stringy tannin and a slightly bitter finish. There is good weight and concentration here, but it needs more grace and sophistication. I might afford it another year and see what happens. Tasted September 2017.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2014 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru feels just a little timid on the nose at first and needs some coaxing from the glass. The palate is better with more material than the nose implies, the acidity well judged, but it does not quite flow like the best Clos Vougeot that I have encountered this vintage, or indeed the domaine's superlative Corton 2014s.
About the Producer
Founded in the early 20th Century by Etie, Méo-Camuzet is one of the figureheads of Vosne-Romanée as well as an old family of the village. Back in 1920, founder Etienne Camuzet acquired 3 hectares of the house's flagship Clos Vougeot as well as the Château itself before donating it to the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. After WWII, the estate came to the management of Jean Méo who had agreements with vintners managing the vineyards and making the wines, the most famous of which was Henri Jayer. In 1983, the estate started to bottle some of its fruits under its own label and the sharecropping agreements eventually came to an end in 1988 when Jean-Nicolas Méo took over the management of the 17.2-hectare property. The meticulous work in the vineyard involves bud pruning in spring, careful trellising to ensure an optimal leaf exposure to sunlight as well as aeration of the bunches and green harvest may be performed if necessary. After harvest bunches are de-stemmed before a 3-5 days cold maceration prior to fermentation. The wines are then matured in oak barrels for 15 to 18 months before bottling. The winemaking aims at preserving the fruit purity to craft smoothly grained, profound wines with complex aromatics and silky textures. In order to ensure the quality acquired in the vineyard and revealed in the cellar is bottled unspoilt, the wines are not filtered. Jean-Nicolas Méo is also involved in a négociant activity which sources and vinifies grapes from vineyards managed by the estate before bottling them under the "Frère & Soeur" label. The attention to detail in the vineyards and the winery is the same as for the estate and allows the family to produce a wider range of appellation in lesser-known Côte de Nuits villages such as Marsannay or Fixin offering a great entry point to the wines of the domaine. Since 2011, this superb portfolio now comprises the first ever Grand Cru white produced by Méo-Camuzet: a Corton-Charlemagne.
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