Wine Advisor
M. Chapoutier, Ermitage de L'Oree Blanc 2012
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
Coming from the Les Murets lieu-dit (which is on the eastern side of Hermitage hill, located further down on the slope) and vines over 80 years in age, the 2012 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree is about as good as white Hermitage gets. Offering incredible aromatics of buttered citrus, honeyed apricot, celery seed and a liquid rock-like minerality, it flows onto the palate with full-bodied richness, brilliant concentration and laser-like focus that carries through the finish. Spectacular on all accounts, it’s monumental stuff that will age for decades. Drink it over the coming 4-5 years (there is no harm in drinking these beauties young), or hold off until around 2022. This was an incredible tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his second hand man, Pierre-Henri Morel. Certainly one of the success stories in wine, which Robert Parker does a fabulous job of detailing in Issue 204, this estate goes from strength to strength in just about every appellation in the Rhone Valley. Looking specifically at Hermitage, Chapoutier owns a massive 64 acres, mostly on the famed Bessards lieu-dit, yet also with significant portions on Le Meal, L’Ermite and Les Greffieux, with smaller portions in the Beaume and Murets lieux-dits. From this he fashions five reds (Monier De La Sizeranne, Les Greffieux, Le Meal, Le Pavillon and L’Ermite) and four whites (Chante Alouette, Cuvee de l’Oree, Le Meal Blanc and L’Ermite Blanc), all of which are brilliant wines, with the best ranking up alongside the top wines in the world. In addition, his Saint Josephs (Les Granits and Le Clos) are some of the leading wines of the appellation (along with Guigal’s Vignes de l’Hospice and a few others), and his Cote Rotie La Mordoree, which comes from his 12 acres (split between the roughly defined Cote Blonde and Cote Brune regions), is always a classic example of the appellation. I was also able to taste through a full lineup of his Languedoc and Roussillon releases, all of which were impressive. I’ll review those wines in my 2014 coverage on those regions. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
The 2012 Ermitage Cuvee de l'Oree is still firing on all cylinders, sporting heavenly notes of powdered rock, white flowers, honeyed orange blossom, white currants and a saltiness that keeps you coming back to the glass. Full-bodied, voluptuous and decadent, drink it anytime over the coming 2-3 decades.
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
Limpid gold. A bright, intensely perfumed bouquet displays fresh pit fruits, tangerine, pungent flowers and Thai basil, with a zesty mineral nuance building quickly. Rich yet energetic, showing excellent focus and depth to its juicy peach and orange flavors. Becomes spicier on the finish, which features chalky tannins and a touch of floral honey. Manages to be both rich and lithe, and has the capacity to reward extended cellaring.
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
Bright yellow. Pure and expressive on the nose, displaying scents of orange zest, poached pear, honeysuckle and chalky minerals. Intense, finely etched orchard fruit and floral flavors are strikingly concentrated, focused and refreshing. Impeccably balanced, precise and mineral-driven white Hermitage with superb finishing bite.
About the Producer
Founded in 1808, M. Chapoutier owns 175 hectares of vines in five appellations in the Rhone Valley and is now run by the energetic and brilliant Michel Chapoutier. Since Michel started running the estate, the quality of the winemaking has improved very quickly and the philosophy of winemaking has changed considerably. Michel Chapoutier's achievements caused an instant sensation in the winemaking world and he completely changed the way Chapoutier wines were made and the winemaking process, eventually making wines to rival those made by Marcel Guigal, one of the best winemakers in the Rhone Valley. The vineyards of Château Sapoutier range from the Rhone Valley to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with a number of quality vineyards planted with Syrah, Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne and other major grape varieties. The winery is "mono-varietal" (i.e. making wines from a single variety), for example, all Syrah for the Châteauneuf-du-Rotie wines, all Marsanne for the Hermitage whites and all Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines. The wines of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are all Grenache. Château Sapoutier has worked tirelessly to improve the quality of its wines, even though each single vineyard produces far more than the 500 cases of fine wine. Since 1989, Château Sapoutier has been using biodynamic farming and winemaking methods with the aim of producing wines that are the purest and closest to the natural terroir. Every decision, every step of the viticultural and winemaking process is designed to add to the terroir, varietal character and vintage identity of the wines. Only wild yeasts are used for fermentation and the wines are made in small oak barrels. The best red and white wines are not clarified or filtered before bottling.
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