Wine Advisor
Laherte Freres, Ultradition Extra Brut NV
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Stephan Reinhardt
Disgorged in spring 2020 with 4.5 grams per liter, the latest rendition of the NV Extra-Brut Ultradition offers up aromas of citrus zest, pear, fresh bread, white flowers and almonds. Medium to full-bodied, ample and chiseled, it's long and concentrated, concluding with a saline finish. In this cuvée, domaine fruit is supplemented by some 40% purchased must.
About the Producer
Aurélien Laherte, along with his friend Raphael Bereche, is a prominent figure among the young vignerons in Champagne who are revolutionizing winemaking in the region. They embrace a natural approach to viticulture and winemaking, producing terroir-driven wines of exceptional quality. In 2009, Aurélien and Raphael founded the "Terres et Vins" collective, which brings together like-minded and progressive Champagne producers. The collective organizes an annual tasting event to showcase their vins clairs and finished sparkling wines. Since Aurélien took over in 2005, the estate has gained recognition as one of the most dynamic and progressive rising stars in Champagne. They produce small-batch, single-vineyard, single-vintage cuvées from biodynamically-farmed parcels. These wines are vinified in used Burgundy barrels, undergo no malolactic fermentation, and are bottled without fining or filtration. The focus is on showcasing the unique terroirs with minimal intervention. The Ultradition lineup, including Brut, Extra Brut, and Rosé, represents the core range of Laherte Champagnes. Aurélien understands that these cuvées play a crucial role in introducing his family's estate and the village of Chavot. The addition of Blanc de Blanc Brut Nature and Rosé de Meunier reflects Aurélien's innovative direction in recent years. The Laherte vineyards, totaling 10.5 hectares and consisting of over 75 separate parcels, are primarily located in the Côteaux Sud D'Epernay. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically or certified organic, with some parcels under sustainable practices. To overcome the complexities of inheritance laws, the estate registered as a negotiant, allowing Aurélien to incorporate all family fruit into his blends. The Laherte team employs various techniques, such as plant infusions and high foliage, to enhance the vines' natural defense system and promote balanced maturity. They are also experimenting with consistent cover crops and reducing plowing to maintain a healthy soil ecosystem. The vineyards are planted with Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Chardonnay, taking advantage of the diverse soils and exposures in different villages.
