Wine Advisor
Kuhling Gillot, Niersteiner Olberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2017
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
There is a sense of austerity to this wine, akin to that of its Nackenheimer Rothenberg sibling, as well as a shared transparency to smoky, stony and marine mineral elements. The latter are anticipated on the nose, along with musky animal nuances typical of this site. A lean texture accentuates an impression of severity, but the seriously sustained finish gets a welcome grip on the salivary glands while delivering refreshingly bright lemony juiciness.
About the Producer
Battenfeld-Spanier lies in the southern-most part of Rheinhessen, and the vines are grown on limestone, which gives them a lifted, citrus character. The estate converted to organic viticulture in 1992, and biodynamic in 1995. Both of them are now farmed biodynamically. If Prüm made wines in Rheinhessen, this is what they would be like: beautifully pure, restrained, and with the promise of a long life. In late 2019 Battenfeld- Spanier was given the coveted 5-grape-cluster award by the Gault-Millau guide, while Kühling-Gillot was promoted to 4-grape cluster. They are now amongst the most highly regarded producers in Germany, a fantastic achievement.
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