Wine Advisor
Krug, Clos d'Ambonnay Blanc de Noirs Brut 1998
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Lisa Perrotti-Brown
The 1998 Clos d’Ambonnay displays a very biscuity nose with an undercurrent of butterscotch, nuts, warm apples, strawberry preserves and cinnamon stick plus a whiff of Japanese pickled plums (umeboshi). Concentrated and rich in the mouth, the palate offers layers of red fruit and yeasty flavors with refreshing acid and a long earthy finish.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1998 Brut Blanc de Noirs Clos d’Ambonnay is the most expressive young Ambonnay Krug has released. Sweet red berries, flowers, spices and licorice emerge from this supple, inviting Champagne. Mirabelle plums, dried flowers and sweet herbs are some of the nuances that linger on the sweet, perfumed finish. With time in the glass, the wine gains considerable shape and dimension. Today, the 1998 looks like it will be the first of the three Ambonnays released thus far to mature. It is also the Ambonnay that has the most clear Pinot character, whereas previous releases have been much more ‘Clos du Mesnil-like’. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2028. I tasted a wide range of wines during my visit to Krug this year, including several versions of the Grande Cuvee that have temporary proprietary names meant to distinguish each release, including the ‘Equilibre’ (1998 base) and ‘Savoir Faire’ (2001 base). The wines still don’t carry disgorgement dates (and probably never) will, but this is a step forward. Yes, the corks have a code that indicates an approximate disgorgement date range, but that is of no use until a bottle is opened. Still, the proprietary name concept is clever, unique and does achieve the purpose of distinguishing each release of the Grande Cuvee. I hope Krug makes the decision to market the next release of their Grande Cuvee with a proprietary name. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1998 Brut Blanc de Noirs Clos d'Ambonnay reaffirms my impression from last year. The 1998 is a rich, vinous Clos d-Ambonnay with generous fruit and an inviting, open personality. Crushed flowers, plums, cherries and sweet spices all flow from the glass. Today, the 1998 is rich, deep and highly expressive. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. There are no new vintage wines from Krug, but is always interesting to revisit these wines as they develop so much over time. The biggest news at Krug is the addition of ID Codes to the NV wines, which gives readers the opportunity to get more information on the wines (including disgorgement dates) through Krug's website. It would be great to see more of the larger houses follow suit. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1998 Brut Clos d'Ambonnay appears to have arrived at an early plateau of maturity. Hints of white truffle, orange peel, licorice, honey and roasted almonds are woven together in a super-appealing mélange of aromas, flavors and textures.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Crushed flowers, tobacco, autumn leaves, spices, mint and dried cherries waft from the glass in the 1998 Brut Blanc de Noirs Clos d'Ambonnay. Over the last few years the 1998 has developed decidedly Burgundian overtones as the Pinot fruit has become more prominent over time. Today the 1998 impresses for its completeness and fabulous overall balance. Hints of anise, fennel and new leather linger on the beguiling, layered finish. This was bottle N. 2023.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1998 Brut Blanc de Noirs Clos d'Ambonnay reaffirms my impression from last year. The 1998 is a vinous Clos d'Ambonnay with generous fruit and an inviting, open-knit personality. Crushed flowers, plums, cherries and sweet spices all flow from the glass. Today, the 1998 is rich, deep and highly expressive.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1998 Brut Blanc de Noirs Clos d'Ambonnay is the most expressive young Ambonnay Krug has released. Sweet red berries, flowers, spices and licorice emerge from this supple, inviting Champagne. Mirabelle plums, dried flowers and sweet herbs are some of the nuances that linger on the sweet, perfumed finish. With time in the glass, the wine gains considerable shape and dimension. Today, the 1998 looks like it will be the first of the three Ambonnays released thus far to mature. It is also the Ambonnay that has the most clear Pinot character, whereas previous releases have been much more ‘Clos du Mesnil-like'.
About the Producer
The House was established in Reims in 1843, by Joseph Krug, a visionary non-conformist with an uncompromising philosophy. Having understood that the true essence of Champagne is pleasure itself, his dream was to craft the very best Champagne he could offer, every single year, regardless of annual variations in climate. Paying close attention to the vineyard’s character, respecting the individuality of each plot and its wine, as well as building an extensive library of reserve wines from many different years allowed Joseph Krug to fulfil his dream. With a very original approach to Champagne making, he decided to go beyond the notion of vintage to create the most generous expression of Champagne, every year. Thus, he founded a House in which all Champagnes are of the same level of distinction. Six generations of the Krug family have perpetuated this dream, enriching the founder’s vision and savoir faire.
