Wine Advisor
Kei Shiogai, Bourgogne Pellans Blanc 2020
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2020 Bourgogne Blanc Pellans comes from the much-hyped Japanese winemaker who has previously worked chez Rousseau and Roulot. As far as I know, Shiogai does not permit journalists to taste his wines, so I ordered this from a restaurant list, coincidentally, with a winemaker who sells him fruit. It offers simple tropical fruit on the nose, a little bland but clean. Decanting unlocks more vigour though it never springs to life. The palate is balanced and clean, yet it lacks much in the way of intrigue or nuance. About one-third is drunk and then a different bottle ordered at less than half the price. I hope Shiogai San's other cuvées are better.
About the Producer
Originally from Japan, Kei fell in love with wine while working various industry jobs across Japan and New Zealand. He studied viticulture and vinification in Beaune and Dijon. Kei worked tirelessly to pursue various wine-focused diplomas, while simultaneously learning French along the way. After working and learning from Domaines such as Pacalet, Rousseau, and Roulot, he decided to start his own winery. Kei ultimately founded his namesake domaine in the heart of the Côte de Beaune. He meticulously cultivates small plots of fruit across some of the region’s most sought after appellations—including but not limited to Pommard and Gevrey-Chambertin—as well as purchases grapes from trusted sources with equally responsible farming regimens. In the cellar, Kei implements a low-intervention mentality, using native yeasts for fermentation and generous amounts of whole clusters. The wines are aged in carefully selected wood, and minimal amounts of sulfur are used only after malolactic fermentation is complete. Kei is hard working, especially when it comes to taking care of the vineyards. The purposely low yielded vines ensure him for the best quality of the grapes. He chose to vinify in the whole cluster, without sulphites. He has a very precise vision of what he wants to achieve. Kei is a perfectionist when it comes to wine-making. His roots are subtly integrated to his passion, the knowledge and inspiration he got from his various experiences in Burgundy. This natural fusion combines with respect to the soils while targeting the finest of each terroir. Regardless the risks he is willing to take to reach that point.
