Wine Advisor
Julian Haart, Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese 2017
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
Grapefruit and Meyer lemon are laced with green tea, quarry dust and cress on a prominently pungent nose. The palate introduces succulent richness and generous juiciness of Persian melon to complement the tangy citrus and pungently herbal elements. At just 7% alcohol, it’s unsurprising that this comes off as extremely delicate, yet it also boasts subtly creamy textural allure. Incisive nips of cress, green tea and piquant citrus seed add to the invigoration of a mouth-shakingly exuberant as well as almost endlessly juicy finish transparent to underlying stone. Like its Ohligsberg counterpart, this was picked at 85 Oechsle, a must weight significantly lower than that which nowadays informs most top Mosel growers’ Kabinetts. Haart perceives this as an instance where his Spätlese represents an extension and intensification of the corresponding Kabinett.
About the Producer
Julian Haart is a young, rising star winemaker in the Mosel region of Germany. After studying viticulture and oenology, he returned to his family's historic estate to carry on the legacy of producing world-class Riesling. Focusing on select, steep-sloped vineyard sites with ungrafted, old vines, Haart employs organic and biodynamic farming methods to coax out the utmost purity and minerality in his wines. His portfolio showcases the diversity of Mosel terroirs, with single-vineyard Rieslings that highlight the unique expressions of sites like Goldtröpfchen and Ohligsberg. Acclaimed for their laser-like acidity, crystalline focus and captivating complexity, Julian Haart's Rieslings have quickly gained recognition as some of the finest in Germany.
